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MPA fix it sticks: to buy or not to buy

Savagefan4863

Private
Minuteman
Aug 13, 2020
10
7
Just picked up an MPA PMR Pro ii. Man does this rifle look good. A bit disappointed to see that my basic FAT torque wrench won’t fit one of the action screws. As far as I can tell only the $200 Fix-It Sticks MPA makes can fit. MPA recommends a torque setting of 65 inch lbs. My question is, do you think I need the fix it sticks to apply precisely 65 inch lbs? Or can I just take an Allen wrench and tighten it up about as far as I can by hand? I’m thinking if the recommended setting was lower say 20-25 inch lbs I can see why being precise is important but when I hear 65 inch lbs I get the sense that they’re really just saying make it real tight but it shouldn’t matter if you aren’t exact.
 
I think what OP might be saying is that the FAT doesn’t crank that hard. If I recall correctly, mine only torques up to 50 in-lbs.

OP, I use a Presta preset torque wrench, I generally use the 6 Nm version because it matches my ARC mount torque specs, but 7 Nm would be closer to your 65 in-lbs.

 
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Just tighten till you hear a loud "ping" then back it off half a turn . :rolleyes:

Invest in a proper way to torque .
 
You can buy an extended 3/16" bit for like $5. Or go to walmart, harbor freight, or basically any hardware store and buy one of the screwdrivers that come with the extended bits that plug into the handle and that will work. There's no reason to spend $200 to get a bit. Fix it sticks are awesome but the $100 set that does 10-65inlbs with one limited is better.
 
My FAT torque wench came with a socket that allows you to put in any size bit that you would need.

Did you lose yours?
Hmm I don’t think mine came with anything like that. I’m sure I can fit any size bit in the FAT wrench, but I guess I’d just need one that is really long to fit the MPA.
 
I think what OP might be saying is that the FAT doesn’t crank that hard. If I recall correctly, mine only torques up to 50 in-lbs.

OP, I use a Presta preset torque wrench, I generally use the 6 Nm version because it matches my ARC mount torque specs, but 7 Nm would be closer to your 65 in-lbs.


Thanks I’ll take a look at that. It’s not the at FAT wrench can’t get tight enough it’s that the the bits it comes with in combination with how wide the wrench itself is means I can’t reach the rear action screw with how the MPA chassis is designed. I guess if I had some really really long drill bits that FAT could work.
 
You can buy an extended 3/16" bit for like $5. Or go to walmart, harbor freight, or basically any hardware store and buy one of the screwdrivers that come with the extended bits that plug into the handle and that will work. There's no reason to spend $200 to get a bit. Fix it sticks are awesome but the $100 set that does 10-65inlbs with one limited is better.
Thanks I think maybe this is all I need. If I could get a super long bit then I could reach the screw with the FAT wrench.
 
3 years
3 posts
Savage fan

I can see why you asked such a question

Just get a bit that fits your FAT wrench and torque to 65 inch lbs
@Savagefan4863 Ignore assholes like this. We all start somewhere. And flaming new users for being new deserves a kick in the nuts

First--as advertised, just get a longer bit for your FAT wrench.

Second, "Fix it Sticks" is a company that sells various sets of torque wrenches, limiters, attachments. I find that they are very useful to throw in my bag (I have 2 FAT wrenches, digital and analoge--they stay in the shop). While the quick solution is "just get a new bit" one of the cheaper fix-it stick kits is REALLY nice to have lying around for range sessions and/or your workbench
The "All in one" kit is $100 and very nice.


I also have an el-cheapo set of bits/extension (star/allen/youname it shape) I picked up for $20 at Lowes or Wal-mart. Paid its weight in gold already.

Drop both in your range bag. So many headaches avoided.
 
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I bought a set of long 1/4" drive allen bits at Lowe's and use a regular 1/4" drive torque wrench. I also have a set of Fix It Sticks, but in all honestly they are my "field expedient" tools. I prefer to use something more precise when working on my rifles at home. Fix It Sticks tools are quite nicely made, and maybe the individual torque limiters are better, but the all-in-one torque limiter with lines marking various torques leaves a little to be desired IMO.
 
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@Savagefan4863 Ignore assholes like this. We all start somewhere. And flaming new users for being new deserves a kick in the nuts

First--as advertised, just get a longer bit for your FAT wrench.

Second, "Fix it Sticks" is a company that sells various sets of torque wrenches, limiters, attachments. I find that they are very useful to throw in my bag (I have 2 FAT wrenches, digital and analoge--they stay in the shop). While the quick solution is "just get a new bit" one of the cheaper fix-it stick kits is REALLY nice to have lying around for range sessions and/or your workbench
The "All in one" kit is $100 and very nice.


I also have an el-cheapo set of bits/extension (star/allen/youname it shape) I picked up for $20 at Lowes or Wal-mart. Paid its weight in gold already.

Drop both in your range bag. So many headaches avoided.
Haha, thanks for sticking up for me man. It’s ok though, I don’t mind a bit banter, he’s just trying to make a joke (with the emphasis on Trying, lol)

Yeah i see now there are some mega long bits that can fit my FAT wrench. This forum has rally been helpful. Hope I don’t wait another three years to post here again.
 
I bought a set of long 1/4" drive allen bits at Lowe's and use a regular 1/4" drive torque wrench. I also have a set of Fix It Sticks, but in all honestly they are my "field expedient" tools. I prefer to use something more precise when working on my rifles at home. Fix It Sticks tools are quite nicely made, and maybe the individual torque limiters are better, but the all-in-one torque limiter with lines marking various torques leaves a little to be desired IMO.

Do you clean and dry the threads on the action screws and the action itself?

Probably not.

A single drop of oil, a smudge of grease or lube on the threads will drastically change your torque value.

The torque limiters aren't the limiting factor in getting proper and repeatable torque. It's almost always user error.
 
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I bought a set of long 1/4" drive allen bits at Lowe's and use a regular 1/4" drive torque wrench. I also have a set of Fix It Sticks, but in all honestly they are my "field expedient" tools. I prefer to use something more precise when working on my rifles at home. Fix It Sticks tools are quite nicely made, and maybe the individual torque limiters are better, but the all-in-one torque limiter with lines marking various torques leaves a little to be desired IMO.

Do you clean and dry the threads on the action screws and the action itself?

Probably not.

A single drop of oil, a smudge of grease or lube on the threads will drastically change your torque value.

The torque limiters aren't the limiting factor in getting proper and repeatable torque. It's almost always user error.

From one of the "OGs" themselves:



Rifles only podcast of fix-it-sticks limiters vs all-in-one.
 
Do you clean and dry the threads on the action screws and the action itself?

Probably not.

A single drop of oil, a smudge of grease or lube on the threads will drastically change your torque value.

The torque limiters aren't the limiting factor in getting proper and repeatable torque. It's almost always user error.
Hmm you’re right I haven’t ever thought about cleaning the action screws. Appreciate the advice. How thorough of a cleaning is needed? Just a wipe down with a rag? Yeah I hear ya, the more things I do the more I open myself to user error. I could just shoot the rifle as is but the factory setting on the triggetech diamond is 1 lb, I’d really like to bring that down too about 8oz which requires removing the chassis.
 
Do you clean and dry the threads on the action screws and the action itself?

Probably not.

A single drop of oil, a smudge of grease or lube on the threads will drastically change your torque value.

The torque limiters aren't the limiting factor in getting proper and repeatable torque. It's almost always user error.
Yes...I am engineer in a vehicle assembly plant and understand how torques work. Maybe I should have been more clear - my eyes can't see the little lines on the torque limiter well enough for me to feel certain I've matched them up 100% perfectly every time, and I feel I get better consistency with a clicker, cam-over, or electronic torque wrench.
 
Hmm you’re right I haven’t ever thought about cleaning the action screws. Appreciate the advice. How thorough of a cleaning is needed? Just a wipe down with a rag? Yeah I hear ya, the more things I do the more I open myself to user error. I could just shoot the rifle as is but the factory setting on the triggetech diamond is 1 lb, I’d really like to bring that down too about 8oz which requires removing the chassis.

You should be able to access the weight adjustment screw through the trigger guard.

8 clicks should do it. Just make sure that you have at least three clicks left to keep enough tension on the spring.
 
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Yes...I am engineer in a vehicle assembly plant and understand how torques work. Maybe I should have been more clear - my eyes can't see the little lines on the torque limiter well enough for me to feel certain I've matched them up 100% perfectly every time, and I feel I get better consistency with a clicker, cam-over, or electronic torque wrench.

I've got both types of fix it sticks. I bring both sets with me to the range simply because other people need them way more than I do.
I usually have a Fat Wrench too.

I agree with you WRT the little lines on the all-in-one, about not getting them to a specific value. That's why I prefer the torque limiter versions.
I also bring my glasses...🤣

I don't think the thread type/finishes used on most action screws truly allows us to achieve repeatable, consistent torque values. Add in what is surely errant lubes and hitting the correct value is simply hit or miss.

What the pocket sized torque devices do, is to get us in the proper ball park. If we can achieve that, then we're good.

We're not building high compression engines or assembling 10,000 psi hydraulic systems.
It's not like we're trying to go old school and play the 2in/lb changes to check accuracy levels.

We're clamping a shouldered steel tube to a V-block. Close enough, is good enough.
 
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I've got both types of fix it sticks. I bring both sets with me to the range simply because other people need them way more than I do.
I usually have a Fat Wrench too.

I agree with you WRT the little lines on the all-in-one, about not getting them to a specific value. That's why I prefer the torque limiter versions.
I also bring my glasses...🤣

I don't think the thread type/finishes used on most action screws truly allows us to achieve repeatable, consistent torque values. Add in what is surely errant lubes and hitting the correct value is simply hit or miss.

What the pocket sized torque devices do, is to get us in the proper ball park. If we can achieve that, then we're good.

We're not building high compression engines or assembling 10,000 psi hydraulic systems.
It's not like we're trying to go old school and play the 2in/lb changes to check accuracy levels.

We're clamping a shouldered steel tube to a V-block. Close enough, is good enough.
Yeah, I agree. I worry more about getting scope ring/base torques right than +/- a few in-lb on the action screws...mainly because when I was a youngster I (grossly) over-torqued a scope base which then broke and fell off the rifle after the 2nd shot. Not that an in-lb or two one way or the other would cause that, but it has stuck with me after watching my brand new rifle scope smack the concrete haha.
 
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You should be able to access the weight adjustment screw through the trigger guard.

8 clicks should do it. Just make sure that you have at least three clicks left to keep enough tension on the spring.
Oh man, yeah if I could adjust the trigger with the chassis on then I’d be totally good to go. I’ll see if i can figure that out tonight. Thanks for the tip!
 
Get a proper set of limiters, Alone they are like $40/each. And you will need 65 in/lbs for many applications.

Eg, Tikka action screws and NF optic mounts two mainstream examples.
 
I think getting the longer bit for the F.A.T. is the right call. There are a few shootout/review threads here (and elsewhere) if you were interested in the error data between various torque devices. On the manual type F.A.T., remember to click it 3 times.
 
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I think what OP might be saying is that the FAT doesn’t crank that hard. If I recall correctly, mine only torques up to 50 in-lbs.

OP, I use a Presta preset torque wrench, I generally use the 6 Nm version because it matches my ARC mount torque specs, but 7 Nm would be closer to your 65 in-lbs.


The 3 FAT I own all go to 65.

I have multiple sets torque bits. Wheeler being one and another set from Ace or something similar. Usually what one set doesn’t have the other will

I also have a set of these and haven’t had an issue with any stock/chassis or mount with my combination of tools I now have
IMG_5713.png


Also my first post was meant as a joke. Try not to let it get to you….
 
Just stay away from the ball head type hex wrenches. They have a tendency to break off where they neck down after the ball at random and then you a real pain in the ass situation on your hands.
 
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Also my first post was meant as a joke. Try not to let it get to you….


My bad, too many fed bois in the bear pit and jackasses just wanting to see themselves post in the regular threads got in my head

I'm an asshole.

Please accept my apologies.

Edit: This cheap driver set and my fix-it sticks have paid for themselves. Plus I've helped 10+ people adjust their shit by having random attachments from the green kit. Its like $20. Get one.

20230822_213727.jpg
 
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