Advanced Marksmanship Muzzel Break Types

ZeroedForImpact

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Minuteman
Jun 26, 2011
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I've seen several different styles of breaks out there, does one style (size & shape/angle of holes) have benefits over another? Does the caliber you shoot help determine the look of the break? Is there a certian style of break that works best with a certin caliber? Is it just the shooters preference?

Thanks,
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

A brake's efficiency and overpressure are influenced by baffle shape, angle, size, placement, and number as well as bore size and other factors I'm forgetting. After doing a fair bit of research into them, it seems that most makers just sort of start cutting holes and hope for the best. On a man fired rifle, there isn't a lot of recoil to begin with, relatively speaking, so many brakes find favor simply by causing a noticeable reduction it seems.
Justin
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

Some shooters like different styled brakes because they feel it lessens the recoil impulse more effectively for them.

The angle and size of holes, and even number of holes/vents would change performance substantially.

Yes, brakes are designed with different calibers in mind. For instance, a .223 brake does not need the vents to be at such a severe angle as a .50 brake because the amount of recoil is waaaaay different and the muzzle blast which causes the brake to work is different.

However, because there are so many options as to color, shape, size, ect., the end user can select a muzzle brake that will be efficient but also satisfy the users tastes on style.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

The design makes a huge difference. What you feel may or may not be noticed based on non brake recoil and volume of gas escape through the brake. I have shot EDM's Windrunner 80 hole brake in 50BMG and I have the new shark brake on my Windrunner and the difference is huge (like the difference between a light 7/8 trap load and a 4 dram 3" magnum). Brakes need lots of gas to hit them so if you have a load that does not have a lot of volume, the effect will be smaller. also if you brake a .22 how do you really tell the difference in recoil if you take say 20% away?
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SJshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Mechanic: I most certainly don't brake my .223. I was simply using a .223 and a .50 cal as a comparison because they are complete opposite ends of the spectrum.</div></div>
No problem. Was just giving some first hand of the difference between two common types, holes vs. shark. It's all good.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

Not trying to hijack the thread but... I've been considering putting a brake on my 6mm Rem. I shoot 105 Amaxes. Any recommendations for a good affordable (less than $200) brake? Would the reduction allow me to see more hits at close range? I have a .22-250 for anything under 400 but I have been using the 6mm for everything lately because it's newer:)
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Michael Riley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Not trying to hijack the thread but... I've been considering putting a brake on my 6mm Rem. I shoot 105 Amaxes. Any recommendations for a good affordable (less than $200) brake? Would the reduction allow me to see more hits at close range? I have a .22-250 for anything under 400 but I have been using the 6mm for everything lately because it's newer:) </div></div>

Search for the RWS brake in the classifieds. It's a good deal on an effective brake.
You'd be surprised how nice your 22-250 is with a muzzle brake as well.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

i like my muzzel breaks with torrents.

but seriously, anything they'd put on a tip of a cannon must be worth putting on the end of a rifle:

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JP howitzer BRAKE
less than $200.00, plus they have a more compact one.
http://www.eabco.com/cssmb.html#JP Brake
http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.2_re.php
http://www.marbut.com/Recoil/
a bunch of videos on you tube also


another site for BRAKES:
http://www.nokick.com/SearchResults.asp
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

From an engineering standpoint:

The nozzles have different shapes for supersonic flow, opposite that of subsonic flow.

A constrictor on a subsonic flow (such as a smaller hole at the end of a water hose) produces thrust and accelerates the fluid as it passes through. This is a subsonic nozzle.

Supersonic nozzles are the reverse - they are flared. The increased area accelerates the flow, causing thrust.

That's why, per my understanding, fewer larger baffles are better than a lot of small holes, especially if they are slanted to the rear.

BN
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

The long and short of it is get a good sideport brake and be happy. Everyone will tell you one works better than the other and so and so forth. I've had alot of different brakes and honestly can't tell much difference from one to the next. Just stay away from the vias style. Otherwise you and everyone around you will be eating dirt every time you pull the trigger.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ch'e</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
another site for BRAKES:
http://www.nokick.com/SearchResults.asp
</div></div>would you rate this brake the best -have you used others</div></div>

have used others, they all work to some point. for under 170.00 installed at eabco or 100.00 install eslwhere, the JP howitzer is a very good brake for the money that i have used. for hunting it's a bit cumbersome making sure theres no gunk stuck in those baffles, and it does tend to pick up alot of grass in fields, but tames recoil and muzzle flip alot. had one on a .300 win and then have one on the .308 pictured just for the heck of it.

on the JP, note the curve in the middle baffle. it's away from the shooter - the muzzle blast hits it and it acts as a parachute...actually pulling the rifle away from the shooter. then it hits the second one , doing more of the same.

from the top view, it gets thinner, triangular shape. the muzzle blast will then travel upward, decreasing the muzzle flip.

i like the smith enterprises ones on that no kick link, reduces muzzle flip in ARs well during rapid fire.

but you'll get good results out of just about any brake that has ports to let out most of the blast to the sides and allows upward porting too - that aids to keep the muzzle from "flipping" upward - and no porting to the 6:00 or bottom of the brake, too much debris gets kicked up, and doesn't aid with muzzle flip as much as a no holes in the bottom type.

ports that have some sort of direction back to the shooter are nice to give a pulling away from the shoulder type of effect.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

Brakes can also be angled to offset left or right side muzzle rise during rapid/full auto fire, depending on if the shooter is right or left handed. Disadvantages that come to mind:
Increased weight/length (could help to balance a butt heavy rifle).
Increased noise/concussion to the shooter and others nearby. This can make things less comfortable for SOs, especially during move & shoot match stages, or for the shooter on the next bench. Nonetheless, brakes can be very effective. One of the best I've used is the multi-port AK pattern.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

This imho . I have used at least 10 of the more common brakes available, and to me the bigger the brakes outside diameter or width is the more effective i find it be.

There is one brake the i have found to work better than anything else i have tried , that is the Muscle brake.
 
Re: Muzzel Break Types

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">anything they'd put on a tip of a cannon must be worth putting on the end of a rifle </div></div>
An interesting point.

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