Muzzle brake issue?

MiNiAn

Private
Minuteman
Dec 31, 2023
25
8
Manila
I had asked about muzzle brake in the past but I need your help again. So I bought this awesome 5 port timed muzzle brake. I don’t want to mention company name but it’s new company that make muzzle brake that appear to look awesome you can see the perfect welds between each large port. The brake its self looks great but I have not yet tried but from their facebook site the seem to be doing good at PRS matches.

So the other night I took it out of box for the first time and screwed it on to the threads of the barrel. It seems the muzzle timed nut is small. I screw the muzzle brake all the way down and there is a gap from either the barrel shoulder and the nut or I can screw the nut down onto shoulder but then there is a gap between nut and brake.

With timed brake I should not have to use shims or crush washer. However I will have to put a crush washer between the barrel and nut and have the nut right against the brake.

I called the company and apparently it is normal for this “timed” brake to have a gap. The gap I have is about 3/4 dime thickness. I mentioned that a larger jam nut is needed, but apparently it’s not. I did not mention crush washer/shim. But I assume you will need it as I will need to index the brake the correct position.

It would have been better if the jam nut and brake is all one piece but I guess I would have to torque back and forth the jam nut until it’s correct position then screw in the brake onto the jam nut.

Am I making sense?

I’m used to where the jam nut screws is larger and screws the opposite direction to put preload of the nut against the barrel and preload between the brake and the nut.

Timed brakes should not need shims or crush washers I guess this statement is not always true.
 
Where does your brake bottom out with out the jam? Did you have to loosen up the brake about a full turn to time it? If so that would explain the gap which sounds like 1mm or so.

On my timed brake (with 5 ports and welds, and a jam not that doesn't reflex over the brake body, IE likely the same CHAD you have.) it bottoms out on the threads because the threads were cut longer than the brake spec calls for. This isn't the fault of the brake or barrel smith. And because of that I needed to use some shims. The shims worked fine and I've quickly forgotten about them and the small gap.
 
The shims bothered me for about 10 minutes. Then I forgot all about em and the brake has worked with out issues.

And to be clear this gap is because the threads on the barrel are cut longer than the brake manufacturer specs. It's no one's fault but my own since my smith didn't know what device he was cutting the barrel for and I never considered thread length when specified the barrel. I can confirm the shims have had no issue with performance.

1000007173.jpg
 
Where does your brake bottom out with out the jam? Did you have to loosen up the brake about a full turn to time it? If so that would explain the gap which sounds like 1mm or so.

On my timed brake (with 5 ports and welds, and a jam not that doesn't reflex over the brake body, IE likely the same CHAD you have.) it bottoms out on the threads because the threads were cut longer than the brake spec calls for. This isn't the fault of the brake or barrel smith. And because of that I needed to use some shims. The shims worked fine and I've quickly forgotten about them and the small gap.
I think we are talking about the same one. Lol.
I’ve order shims I think one shim will do it.
Like the op after said I guess most of the other brakes I use I don’t see a gap.
 
The shims bothered me for about 10 minutes. Then I forgot all about em and the brake has worked with out issues.

And to be clear this gap is because the threads on the barrel are cut longer than the brake manufacturer specs. It's no one's fault but my own since my smith didn't know what device he was cutting the barrel for and I never considered thread length when specified the barrel. I can confirm the shims have had no issue with performance.

View attachment 8782812
Yup that’s the one. I will still need to use shim in order to have the ports face the correct way though.
 
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