• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Muzzle Brake needed!

matthewmark7

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 18, 2014
8
0
I am an ex baseball player and have had shoulder injuries. Even shooting my .30-06 bothers me after multiple shots.

What is a good clamp on muzzle brake or inexpensive brake? I really do not want to spend the money to get my barrel threaded. What are the best clamp on brakes and are they worth it?
 
Wow! Well that looks like a Mosin Brake, but I did check out their website and they make custom ones for almost any gun for under 100 bucks. Thanks
 
Witt machine, they seem to have a pretty decent product.
I ordered one for my savage just to see.
 
Personally I'm not sure how well clamp on's work as they aren't made for you barrel contour and if your alignments out well yeh. JP HOWITZER brakes weigh 5lbs but are screw on but then it's also threaded for a suppressor so it's a win win
 
I have a Witt Machine clamp on custom brake on my .30-06 and it feels like Im shooting an AR. It has done no harm to my barrel and it looks pretty sweet. I was skeptical of a clamp on brake as well because I had some buddies telling me to just get my barrel threaded but I really did not want to spend the money either. I would highly recommend a clamp on brake.
 
Thanks I still have been doing research and I will most likely make a purchase this week. I am leaning towards a Witt Machine brake I have read nothing but great reviews.
 
Yes I agree to do research with any product. If you end up going with Witt Machine make sure you use a caliper to measure your barrel. The only problems I have heard about them is when people do not measure their barrels correctly.
 
PLease check out the JP Rifles Recoil Eliminator (called the "tank break"). I just tried it this weekend. I dont know how it could be any more effective...
it may be ugly looking, but it WORKS.....
 
After feeling like a mule kicked me in the shoulder for a couple of days after testing out my new Rem700 LR in 300 wm a few weeks back, I ordered a Witt clamp on brake. They claim a 60% reduction in felt recoil, so it's worth the $100 to me to try it out. Call me a wimp, but I'm used to the nonexistent recoil of a .22lr and my .243 at most...the 300 mag was a rude awakening to be honest, I can see this rifle without the brake causing me to develop some bad habits, hopefully the brake will tame it down a bit.
 
PLease check out the JP Rifles Recoil Eliminator (called the "tank break"). I just tried it this weekend. I dont know how it could be any more effective...
it may be ugly looking, but it WORKS.....

I love my JP Tank Break!!!!
 
I am an ex baseball player and have had shoulder injuries. Even shooting my .30-06 bothers me after multiple shots.

What is a good clamp on muzzle brake or inexpensive brake? I really do not want to spend the money to get my barrel threaded. What are the best clamp on brakes and are they worth it?
Beside adding a muzzle brake, also install a LimbSaver recoil pad if you do not already have one.
AirTech Precision-fit Recoil Pad | LimbSaver - Products That Work | Archery | Firearms | Hunting Compound Bows | Limb Dampeners | Bow Stabilizers | Recoil Pads | Arrow Quivers
 
Adding weight helps A LOT as well, if it's not a hunting rifle of course. I packed the cavity in the butt of my hs stock with lead shot and lead fishing weights (sounds dumb but.... uhhh... not sure why didn't just use lead shot come to think of it) and it "seemed" to help nearly as much as a muzzle brake alone. Plus the balance of the rifle was much closer to my preference afterwards (center of balance being very near the forward action screw, makes it easier for me to pick up and carry for some reason).

Muzzle brakes are great, don't get me wrong, I'm simply suggesting both if possible to help mitigate recoil.


I'm what some might call "recoil sensitive" (which started with my ~5.5-6.5lb .260, then more so with my 7.5lb 700 in 308) but with the same 308 with a #7 contour barrel and a few lbs in lead shot (and fishing weights? why the hell did I do that..) WITHOUT a muzzle brake, it kicks less than the braked version of the original barreled gun, it weighs 16 pounds or some $#!+ now but hey its a heck of a lot fun to shoot without the extra noise of a brake.
 
I use a Precision Armament m11 brake on my 308, and it works really well. One design feature that I like is that there isn't any ports facing down so it prevents dust from getting stirred up while shooting prone, unlike other brake on the market. It does a great job with mitigating recoil and muzzle rise, making it possible to see your impacts and vapor trail when using proper techniques.
 
I've read good things about Whitt, and was about to get one but decided to go forward with a suppressor so I'll have to get my 300WM threaded anyway. I strongly suggest the LimbSaver recoil pad though. My 300 came with one factory, and it is night and day compared to my Dad's Model 70, also in 300 WM, with a standard rubber pad.
 
Look at Harrell brakes. Very good. Very inexpensive. You do have to thread the barrel.

About those recoil reduction claims. Newtons law says for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction. So when you fire a round, the bullet and the gasses go out the muzzle. That is the action. The recoil is caused by the mass of the bullet and the powder gasses. In my 308 with Lapua brass, I have a 175 grain bullet and 42.2 grains of powder -- 217.2 grains. Let's assume that the brake deflects all of the powder gas sideways so the only "action" is the bullet. So instead of recoil from 217.2 grains of stuff going out the muzzle, I get the recoil of 175 grains or 175/217.2 = .80 or a 20 percent reduction. I shoot a lot and like many of you I cannot afford a flinch. I have brakes and I welcome the recoil reduction but I am not fooling myself into thinking that I am getting a 50 percent reduction. I am grateful for the 20 percent reduction.

Btw, with the 308 I help myself by shooting a 15-pound gun, with a brake, off bags, with a decent butt-pad. Those 7 pound hunting weight guns in 300 win mag with pencil barrels and no brake are just vicious. I wouldn't own one. My 300 win mag target gun weighs about 16 pounds and has a brake. My 375 H&H mag Win mdl 70 weigh about 12 pounds and it is almost vicious - not a gun to shoot off the bench.

YMMV
 
My Witt brake showed up yesterday, got it installed and now I'm just waiting to test it out


97DFE224-1668-42DD-ACF6-9B1394040F37_zpsb6z2noi4.jpg


7FF24F0F-682F-40CF-A7E2-94255D371503_zpsnhu0kywe.jpg


F8B0BB89-9256-4A4C-8D36-C969E4518D7E_zpskrtp0czs.jpg



Doesn't look quite as good as a thread on, but for the price and ease...it was worth a shot.
 
My Witt brake showed up yesterday, got it installed and now I'm just waiting to test it out


97DFE224-1668-42DD-ACF6-9B1394040F37_zpsb6z2noi4.jpg


7FF24F0F-682F-40CF-A7E2-94255D371503_zpsnhu0kywe.jpg


F8B0BB89-9256-4A4C-8D36-C969E4518D7E_zpskrtp0czs.jpg



Doesn't look quite as good as a thread on, but for the price and ease...it was worth a shot.

Would you happen to have a range report in the Witt Machine brake?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
At the gun club right now, the Witt brake works!
Moved POI 1.5 MOA down and .5 MOA right.
My 260 feels like shooting a mild 223!
I'm kinda glad I worked on my recoil control beefier I got it as this is almost cheating.
I just cranked out a 5 shot 3/4 MOA group including a pulled shot(%100 pulled) at 700 yds so accuracy is still good.
I may play around with my load a bit to see if it needs to be tweaked a bit.
It's not pretty but it does work.