Anyone know for sure or not if it is possible to have a aluminum muzzle brake? are there certain brakes for certain results? is it neccesary to brake a 22 250? and last but not least, is it a bad idea to make my own brake? keep in mind i have machining equipment and general gun knowledge but not extensive.
Gunsmithing muzzle brakes? help please lol
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Q1 wouldn't recommend
Q2 Yes
Q3 necessary no, but I see them on 10/22's YMMV
Q4 Yes bad Idea as there are many proven designs and you could waste a LOT of time, energy, and material.
Q1 wouldn't recommend
Q2 Yes
Q3 necessary no, but I see them on 10/22's YMMV
Q4 Yes bad Idea as there are many proven designs and you could waste a LOT of time, energy, and material.
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Aluminum erodes quickly and is prone to cracking when used for muzzlebrakes. We only use P70/416SS, 4140CM, or 4340CM for our products, aluminum is good for some things, but muzzlebrakes aren't one of them.
Aluminum erodes quickly and is prone to cracking when used for muzzlebrakes. We only use P70/416SS, 4140CM, or 4340CM for our products, aluminum is good for some things, but muzzlebrakes aren't one of them.
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
ok what if i used the stainless steel, is titanium an option? have a ton of both. also length matter? i take it that it all is probably very relevant aand i probably need to study designs and functions of brakes.
ok what if i used the stainless steel, is titanium an option? have a ton of both. also length matter? i take it that it all is probably very relevant aand i probably need to study designs and functions of brakes.
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Can anyone recommend a gunsmith that can do a muzzle break in and around El Paso, TX or south central Ohio?
Can anyone recommend a gunsmith that can do a muzzle break in and around El Paso, TX or south central Ohio?
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Thunder Valley if your in Ohio. They are doing mine. Just ship your rifle to them. Contact Tom Sarver on this board as he is the owner of the range.
Thunder Valley if your in Ohio. They are doing mine. Just ship your rifle to them. Contact Tom Sarver on this board as he is the owner of the range.
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Brknskk- check out the following link: http://www.lima-wiederladetechnik.de/Englisch/Muzzle-Brake.htm
It explains quite a bit of the science and theory behind muzzle brakes. If you have the machinery, materials, knowledge and desire, you can make your own.
IMHO a brake is really not necessary on a 22-250, and I definitely wouldn't recommend using aluminum. I can understand the notion of doing it just because you can though.
If you have so much titanium you might as well use it and market the product you create. Titanium definitely increases the CDI factor and people will buy them, especially if they actually work
Brknskk- check out the following link: http://www.lima-wiederladetechnik.de/Englisch/Muzzle-Brake.htm
It explains quite a bit of the science and theory behind muzzle brakes. If you have the machinery, materials, knowledge and desire, you can make your own.
IMHO a brake is really not necessary on a 22-250, and I definitely wouldn't recommend using aluminum. I can understand the notion of doing it just because you can though.
If you have so much titanium you might as well use it and market the product you create. Titanium definitely increases the CDI factor and people will buy them, especially if they actually work
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Harrell's makes more than just powder measures. They're also at a decent price.
http://harrellsprec.com/index.php?crn=208&rn=385&action=show_detail
Harrell's makes more than just powder measures. They're also at a decent price.
http://harrellsprec.com/index.php?crn=208&rn=385&action=show_detail
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
Muzzle Brakes,
We install LOTS of Harrell's Brakes and they work great. Have one on my 1000 yard World Record rifle and it tames the recoil quite nice. Several satisfied customers here on the Hide!
Thanks for the work RCR, we appreciate the business.
Tom Sarver
Thunder Valley Precision
740-502-6530
Muzzle Brakes,
We install LOTS of Harrell's Brakes and they work great. Have one on my 1000 yard World Record rifle and it tames the recoil quite nice. Several satisfied customers here on the Hide!
Thanks for the work RCR, we appreciate the business.
Tom Sarver
Thunder Valley Precision
740-502-6530
Re: muzzle brakes? help please lol
It is possible to manufacture muzzlebrakes out of alluminium. We have done a few as test pieces, and if you think about it there are many an alluminium supressor on the market.
All fine in theory,
The problem bieng that Alluminium doesn't stand up to the high temp of propellant gasses and can wear quickly. This is just fine for a supressor on a hunting rifle that sees no high volume of fire. Same could be said for a brake i guess. Certainly one can combat this to a certain extent with pressed in inserts in the case of a brake and steel or stainless steel bafles in the case of a supressor, but in the case of a brake its just not economical manufacture and isn't the way to go to get the best performance or ruggedness.
Personaly for a Muzzlebrake i'd stick with the steel or stainless steel variants. The only reason i can see for wanting to build a brake in Ally is weight, if weight is such a consideration personaly i'd rather loose an inch of barrel and then thread the barrel and instal a steel brake.
You can fit a clamp model if you don't want to or aren't legaly allowed to thread the barrel, but threading the barrel would always be my preference.
There are hundreds of different brakes on the market, and the most effective ones are by design loud. Some brakes are very simply made of round bar stock with vent holes strategicaly bored, some are a little more intricate with plenty of machining work, some are realy nicely made and finished and some are cast items that look like they belong on russian farm equipment. Nearly all work to a certain extent, some far better than others.
When choosing a brake there are several factors to consider.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Noise:</span> if you dont want to consider ear protection any more than without a brake, then don't look at brakes with 90° to barrel axis or further rearward angled ports.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Dust Signature: </span> if you don't want clouds of dust bieng driven up by downward ported gasses then a brake with ports on the underside is out.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Flash signature: </span> especialy for night/dusk shooting, ports that vent uwards with screw with your night vision.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Recoil Reduction: </span> This can realy vary from brake type to brake type and the only way to find out what is the most effective is to test or ask some one who hast tested or has experience with brakes. Or trail and error your own brakes.
Like I mentioned in another thread I would realy like to see a Snipershide Muzzle Brake test done, but as yet no takers..
regards Pete
It is possible to manufacture muzzlebrakes out of alluminium. We have done a few as test pieces, and if you think about it there are many an alluminium supressor on the market.
All fine in theory,
The problem bieng that Alluminium doesn't stand up to the high temp of propellant gasses and can wear quickly. This is just fine for a supressor on a hunting rifle that sees no high volume of fire. Same could be said for a brake i guess. Certainly one can combat this to a certain extent with pressed in inserts in the case of a brake and steel or stainless steel bafles in the case of a supressor, but in the case of a brake its just not economical manufacture and isn't the way to go to get the best performance or ruggedness.
Personaly for a Muzzlebrake i'd stick with the steel or stainless steel variants. The only reason i can see for wanting to build a brake in Ally is weight, if weight is such a consideration personaly i'd rather loose an inch of barrel and then thread the barrel and instal a steel brake.
You can fit a clamp model if you don't want to or aren't legaly allowed to thread the barrel, but threading the barrel would always be my preference.
There are hundreds of different brakes on the market, and the most effective ones are by design loud. Some brakes are very simply made of round bar stock with vent holes strategicaly bored, some are a little more intricate with plenty of machining work, some are realy nicely made and finished and some are cast items that look like they belong on russian farm equipment. Nearly all work to a certain extent, some far better than others.
When choosing a brake there are several factors to consider.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Noise:</span> if you dont want to consider ear protection any more than without a brake, then don't look at brakes with 90° to barrel axis or further rearward angled ports.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Dust Signature: </span> if you don't want clouds of dust bieng driven up by downward ported gasses then a brake with ports on the underside is out.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Flash signature: </span> especialy for night/dusk shooting, ports that vent uwards with screw with your night vision.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Recoil Reduction: </span> This can realy vary from brake type to brake type and the only way to find out what is the most effective is to test or ask some one who hast tested or has experience with brakes. Or trail and error your own brakes.
Like I mentioned in another thread I would realy like to see a Snipershide Muzzle Brake test done, but as yet no takers..
regards Pete
