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Muzzle device confusion

benfrench093

Private
Minuteman
Nov 1, 2017
35
15
I need some help understanding options for muzzle devices. I currently have a tbac can that uses the cb(actually BA) mount. So a brake, semi permamently attached to the muzzle that the can attaches to. Works great.

I just bought another can that has hub threads. I believe it comes with a hub threaded cap thats made to direct thread to the muzzle. Simple. Problem is Id like to keep some kind of muzzle device on the rifle when the suppressor isnt attached. Thats where I get confused.

So,...what then, would be the purpose of ever using something like a rearden/cherry bomb/ xeno type device? I like the idea of having some sort of muzzle device loktited to the muzzle threads on the rifle in the event that at some point I somehow inadvertanty booger up the threads. But then you have to have another adapter that adapts the muzzle device threads to the HUB threads. I have 3 rifles I plan to use it on and Im thinking of putting one of those (rearden/cherry bomb/xeno) type devices on each of them to swap the suppressor back and forth to. But then Ive got 2 different adapter devices between the muzzle threads themselves and the suppressor..?

Whenever I get back to my pickup after hunting I always take my suppressor off to put the rifle back in the case and currently that leaves the tbac brake on the muzzle of the rifle, but with the new hub suppressor I just bought Im trying to figure out what people use.

Seams indecent to just flash naked muzzle threads around all willy nilly.


Need some advice. Thank you
 
I use the 419 system, it has “universal adaptors” for the muzzle threads so I can use my cans on whatever the rifle has, 1/2 or 5/8 muzzle threads.

Then the cans I have each get a “suppressor mount” that turns its rear dimension into the necessary universal adaptor spec. So all my cans can all go on any center fire rifle I have, bolt or semi auto, with no fidgeting with stuff.

(Just don’t use a 22 cal can on a larger cal rifle or you will make it a 30 cal can.)

Edit: or the heathen brake but I’m can exclusive
 
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You have 3 rifles.

1 uses the BA, you like it.

You have a new can, w HUB, also known as Bravo.

Solution:

Buy 2 additional BA mounts

Buy a “HUB/Bravo to CB” for your new can, on this vendor it’s “bravo” ECCO is well known and respected.

Now you can run either can on any of the 3 rifles.

I’m off to solve more problems.

TTYL.
 
The point of the HUB interface is that you can have the same mounting solution across all rifles and suppressors, regardless of the make and model of either.

Every suppressor manufacturer has their own special sauce mount. Many of them suck, even if the can is pretty good. Until HUB, you were often stuck with a good can with a shitty mount. HUB allows you to pick the mount solution that works for you, regardless of the can maker. Run a YHM ratcheting mount on a dead air can? No problem. A Q cherry bomb with a YHM? Sure. A dead air keymo with an Otter Creek? Yep. You get the idea.

And, putting the mount on your rifle barrel protects the barrel threads.
 
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You're overthinking it.

They're all just devices that have a thread pattern to mount suppressors.

If you like the TB system, stay with it. I use Rearden and love it, works great for me. But honestly at the end of the day it doesn't do anything differently than TBAC 's system (for the most part).
 
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Perhaps you already know this, but TBAC makes a CB2HUB adapter for their CB muzzle devices.

View attachment 8303839
Tbh I didn’t know that. My current suppressor is a 338 ultra which uses a bigger version of the cb mount called “BA”. I use that can on my RUM and don’t foresee using it on anything else once I have this one so basically I need to choose a mounting system for my 30 cal and smaller rifles.

This makes a lot more sense to me now.
 
I need some help understanding options for muzzle devices. I currently have a tbac can that uses the cb(actually BA) mount. So a brake, semi permamently attached to the muzzle that the can attaches to. Works great.

I just bought another can that has hub threads. I believe it comes with a hub threaded cap thats made to direct thread to the muzzle. Simple. Problem is Id like to keep some kind of muzzle device on the rifle when the suppressor isnt attached. Thats where I get confused.

So,...what then, would be the purpose of ever using something like a rearden/cherry bomb/ xeno type device? I like the idea of having some sort of muzzle device loktited to the muzzle threads on the rifle in the event that at some point I somehow inadvertanty booger up the threads. But then you have to have another adapter that adapts the muzzle device threads to the HUB threads. I have 3 rifles I plan to use it on and Im thinking of putting one of those (rearden/cherry bomb/xeno) type devices on each of them to swap the suppressor back and forth to. But then Ive got 2 different adapter devices between the muzzle threads themselves and the suppressor..?

Whenever I get back to my pickup after hunting I always take my suppressor off to put the rifle back in the case and currently that leaves the tbac brake on the muzzle of the rifle, but with the new hub suppressor I just bought Im trying to figure out what people use.

Seams indecent to just flash naked muzzle threads around all willy nilly.


Need some advice. Thank you

I let my naked threads hang out in the open.


Buy all the same muzzle device and you can leave the hub to muzzle adapter in the can. Or buy hub direct thread adapters and leave them on the muzzle. Or thread on a thread protector.


Don't worry about cross threading a barrel. It's really hard to not figure it out as soon as it starts. If you really, really, really got dumb worst case your barrel gets 1" shorter and you have a gunsmith bill to remember to not get a case of the dumbs 🤣

I've been running direct thread cans and leaving muzzles bare for 5+ years now. I haven't managed to beat any of it enough to screw it up.
 
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If you really, really, really got dumb worst case your barrel gets 1" shorter and you have a gunsmith bill to remember to not get a case of the dumbs 🤣

Ha! Too late for that. My current suppressor ended up with a hole through it where there wasnt supposed to be a hole. :rolleyes::cry:
 
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Let’s just say the suppressor was not threaded on properly (or at all) and in my complacency I failed to check it and somehow was too oblivious to notice it before I shot.

I saw a muzzle flash, heard a peculiar sound, and looked up to witness it cartwheeling through the air at the 50 yd line. Tbac was nice enough to fix it for me for the nominal cost of only $1300. They said every baffle was damaged. Warranty service was top notch and very fast turn around time but they did make me pay for it. Learned a lesson on that one.

Looks brand new now though. 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 
View attachment 8314990View attachment 8314991View attachment 8314993

Let’s just say the suppressor was not threaded on properly (or at all) and in my complacency I failed to check it and somehow was too oblivious to notice it before I shot.

I saw a muzzle flash, heard a peculiar sound, and looked up to witness it cartwheeling through the air at the 50 yd line. Tbac was nice enough to fix it for me for the nominal cost of only $1300. They said every baffle was damaged. Warranty service was top notch and very fast turn around time but they did make me pay for it. Learned a lesson on that one.

Looks brand new now though. 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
That’s one way to make a can low backpressure.
 
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View attachment 8314990View attachment 8314991View attachment 8314993

Let’s just say the suppressor was not threaded on properly (or at all) and in my complacency I failed to check it and somehow was too oblivious to notice it before I shot.

I saw a muzzle flash, heard a peculiar sound, and looked up to witness it cartwheeling through the air at the 50 yd line. Tbac was nice enough to fix it for me for the nominal cost of only $1300. They said every baffle was damaged. Warranty service was top notch and very fast turn around time but they did make me pay for it. Learned a lesson on that one.

Looks brand new now though. 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️
I was at the range with a buddy of mine who did the same exact thing with his Silencerco on a 300PRC. Scared the piss out of us then we couldnt stop laughing for an hour. Launched the can down range and was stuffed full of dirt, endcap ripped open.

ALWAYS hand tighten a can before you take a shot and after the first 2-3 shots to make sure the threads are seated.

I think he is a member here so he can chime if he wants, Tim.

This was a lesson i was happy to learn from someone else's mistake.

That sucks they charged so much for the repair. Probably had to put your SN on a new can :).
 
I was at the range with a buddy of mine who did the same exact thing with his Silencerco on a 300PRC. Scared the piss out of us then we couldnt stop laughing for an hour. Launched the can down range and was stuffed full of dirt, endcap ripped open.

ALWAYS hand tighten a can before you take a shot and after the first 2-3 shots to make sure the threads are seated.

I think he is a member here so he can chime if he wants, Tim.

This was a lesson i was happy to learn from someone else's mistake.

That sucks they charged so much for the repair. Probably had to put your SN on a new can :).
When it first happened I thought I was out a $2k can plus the wait time so I was just glad to hear that they could repair it and that I didnt have to wait another 8 months for another one. I asked them about just putting my number on a new can and destroying the old one but apparently thats not possible to do legally. The one I got back sure looks like a brand new can but maybe they just did an exceptional job with the rebuild. Either way, i dont care what they did and it didnt change my poi at all which is neat.
 
I have a Magnus that should be out of jail in a few months. TB is a cut above the rest when it comes with CS. Had a dealer loose my can and they ended up expediting a new one to me.
 
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