My Reloading Steps from Start to Finish. Anything Missing?

[RaptorAddict]

This is a list of steps in order I perform when reloading my 6.5CM for long range. I think I have it all down, but curious if anything is missing. Took a while to get all this in play as I kept thinking I had it all down. Always found I was missing something. LOL!

Anneal
Tumble
Lube Brass for Sizing
Size/deprime Brass with Measuring Should Bump
Headspace Check and Cut if Needed
Chamfer and Deburr
Clean Primer Pockets (once every 3 reloads)
Tumble
Seat Primers
Powder Charge
Bullet Seating
Final inspect with COAL Measurement

BTW, my friends see all this and just can't fathom doing all these steps just to go shoot. They say I'm crazy. LOL! ME: No, no, you just would never understand. HAHA!

 

[Baron23]

Just me but I tumble before annealing.

Also, while I do check COAL when setting up my seating die to ensure I’m within mag length (actually mag length minus 7-10 thou), CBTO is a better indicator of consistency as the overall length of bullets can vary a good bit (open tip type).

Do you lube inside if necks before seating (graphite or whoever). Kind of a debated topic as to whether it is at all worthwhile. Opinions vary a great deal.

Do you do anything to check/set:ensure neck tension other than just run the ball thru the neck on the FL sizing up stroke (which I did and got good ammo until I decided I was still a bit bored in retirement and bought pin gauges and mandrels lo ).

Best of luck. Cheers

 

[RaptorAddict]

Just me but I tumble before annealing.

Also, while I do check COAL when setting up my seating die to ensure I’m within mag length (actually mag length minus 7-10 thou), CBTO is a better indicator of consistency as the overall length of bullets can vary a good bit (open tip type).

Do you lube inside if necks before seating (graphite or whoever). Kind of a debated topic as to whether it is at all worthwhile. Opinions vary a great deal.

Do you do anything to check/set:ensure neck tension other than just run the ball thru the neck on the FL sizing up stroke (which I did and got good ammo until I decided I was still a bit bored in retirement and bought pin gauges and mandrels lo ).

Best of luck. Cheers

Forgot to mention the CBTO. I do measure that. And yes, I always lube inside the necks. I lube case by case with q-tips. Makes sense to anneal after tumbling. Could switch those.

 

[mbeavers1]

Forgot to mention the CBTO. I do measure that. And yes, I always lube inside the necks. I lube case by case with q-tips. Makes sense to anneal after tumbling. Could switch those.

A few things:

1) What lube are you using? I use alcohol/lanolin so I have to tumble again after sizing. Lanolin makes my sizing much smoother and more consistent.

2) What do you tumble with? I use med grain Sushi rice - no dust, clean, and doesnt stick in flash holes. Also, leaves thin layer of carbon in neck so you dont have to lube necks. I measure my seating force with this and my seating pressure is very consistent.

3) How are you setting/checking neck tension? I find expander mandrels much better. You can buy gage pins off amazon to measure your exact neck tension.

4) I am not a fan of tumbling after chamfering. You just made the necks perfectly round and cleaned up the edges, then you bang them off each other in the tumbler? I chamfer immediatly before I load.

 

[Baron23]

I use alcohol/lanolin so I have to tumble again after sizing.

Lube Brass for Sizing
Size/deprime Brass with Measuring Should Bump
Headspace Check and Cut if Needed
Chamfer and Deburr
Clean Primer Pockets (once every 3 reloads)
Tumble

He does tumble after resizing. I don't think doing so after trimming makes any difference, right?

Oops, just saw your statement about banging up the necks after sizing them...fair enough. I too trim after tumbling to remove sizing lube but I do wonder if a vibratory tumbler really dings up necks that much. I don't really see that level of violence in my post tumbled cases but I'm willing to be argued out of that view.

And he says he uses a q-tip to lube inside case necks prior to seating so I'm guessing he either uses imperial wax or an alcohol/lanolin type.

Cheers

 

[B y r o n]

When you say "Headspace Check and Cut if Needed" do you really mean check check case length?

 

[mbeavers1]

He does tumble after resizing. I don't think doing so after trimming makes any difference, right?

Oops, just saw your statement about banging up the necks after sizing them...fair enough. I too trim after tumbling to remove sizing lube but I do wonder if a vibratory tumbler really dings up necks that much. I don't really see that level of violence in my post tumbled cases but I'm willing to be argued out of that view.

And he says he uses a q-tip to lube inside case necks prior to seating so I'm guessing he either uses imperial wax or an alcohol/lanolin type.

Cheers

I missed that originally. Thanks for clarifying on the tumbling.

There are several opportunities to ding the necks. The first is on the center post (if not rubber coated) or cases while in the tub, the second is when bouncing the cases off each other in the media separator, and the third is wherever you store the brass until ready to load.

I bought a Henderson trimmer for speed since it trims and chamfers all in one pass. Its simple and takes no time at all to do it right before priming so there is no question.

I started doing it this way because I had some strange readings on my seating pressure and it went away. Coincidence, maybe, but its working like a champ now!

I find that by using rice (or any other dry media) that I do not need to lube necks to get consistent seating force. I am always lookimg for ways to reduce steps. I too used to lube necks. If you want to so it, I would use OneShot on a qtip so that powder does not stick while charging. I used to do this and was recommended by a very successful f-class shooter and gunsmith. Again, I saw no benefit so I chopped out what I felt was an unnecessary step.

 

[Expert684]

Mine in order:
Size/ remove primer
Tumble, pockets are cleaned with tumbling.
Anneal
Trim if necessary
Neck size
Load

 

[Bigfatcock]

No primer pocket uniforming? Interdasting.

 

[Expert684]

No primer pocket uniforming? Interdasting.

I do mine, depends which gun I’m loading for.

 

[mbeavers1]

No primer pocket uniforming? Interdasting.

Nope. Waste of time. Buy good brass from the start.

 

[99mpower]

This is only for small batch precision rifle. My bulk brass prep is completely different

hand deprime batch
wet wash/dry brass
anneal
size, check shoulder measurement/headspace
trim/chamfer
wet wash/dry
neck mandrel
hand prime
trickle powder
bullet seat, verify CBTO
mark brass
make label, store together in batches/lot # info

 

[Bigfatcock]

Nope. Waste of time. Buy good brass from the start.

Also interdasting.

 

[JM4590]

Drive to Walmart.
Purchase Hornady Black 6.5 Creed.
Return home.
Drive to range.
Fill MagPul magazine.
Load magazine into rifle.
Fire loaded ammo at plate 500 yds downrange.
Examine target with .5 MOA group.
Leave fired cases for poors to pick up.
Pack up shit from bench.
Repeat as necessary

 

[Baron23]

I missed that originally. Thanks for clarifying on the tumbling.

There are several opportunities to ding the necks. The first is on the center post (if not rubber coated) or cases while in the tub, the second is when bouncing the cases off each other in the media separator, and the third is wherever you store the brass until ready to load.

I bought a Henderson trimmer for speed since it trims and chamfers all in one pass. Its simple and takes no time at all to do it right before priming so there is no question.

I started doing it this way because I had some strange readings on my seating pressure and it went away. Coincidence, maybe, but its working like a champ now!

I find that by using rice (or any other dry media) that I do not need to lube necks to get consistent seating force. I am always lookimg for ways to reduce steps. I too used to lube necks. If you want to so it, I would use OneShot on a qtip so that powder does not stick while charging. I used to do this and was recommended by a very successful f-class shooter and gunsmith. Again, I saw no benefit so I chopped out what I felt was an unnecessary step.

Thanks for the reply. As I mentioned, I too trim after tumbling to remove sizing lube so I haven’t had a chance to reply examine necks before/after tumbling and look for new irregularity.

I use a Giraud for the same reason…one pass and done.

Personally I use graphite (eh, Redding’s w the little ceramic beads) and it’s very quick to give the necks a quick turn in it when filling the loading block with prep’d brass.

Cheers

 

[Haney]

Drive to Walmart.
Purchase Hornady Black 6.5 Creed.
Return home.
Drive to range.
Fill MagPul magazine.
Load magazine into rifle.
Fire loaded ammo at plate 500 yds downrange.
Examine target with .5 MOA group.
Leave fired cases for poors to pick up.
Pack up shit from bench.
Repeat as necessary

Slow learner, eh ?

 

[RaptorAddict]

A few things: 1) What lube are you using? I use alcohol/lanolin so I have to tumble again after sizing. Lanolin makes my sizing much smoother and more consistent. 2) What do you tumble with? I use med grain Sushi rice - no dust, clean, and doesnt stick in flash holes. Also, leaves thin layer of carbon in neck so you dont have to lube necks. I measure my seating force with this and my seating pressure is very consistent. 3) How are you setting/checking neck tension? I find expander mandrels much better. You can buy gage pins off amazon to measure your exact neck tension. 4) I am not a fan of tumbling after chamfering. You just made the necks perfectly round and cleaned up the edges, then you bang them off each other in the tumbler? I chamfer immediatly before I load.

A few things:

1) What lube are you using? I use alcohol/lanolin so I have to tumble again after sizing. Lanolin makes my sizing much smoother and more consistent.

2) What do you tumble with? I use med grain Sushi rice - no dust, clean, and doesnt stick in flash holes. Also, leaves thin layer of carbon in neck so you dont have to lube necks. I measure my seating force with this and my seating pressure is very consistent.

3) How are you setting/checking neck tension? I find expander mandrels much better. You can buy gage pins off amazon to measure your exact neck tension.

4) I am not a fan of tumbling after chamfering. You just made the necks perfectly round and cleaned up the edges, then you bang them off each other in the tumbler? I chamfer immediatly before I load.

For case lube I use the Forster lubricant. I apply it with q-tips one by one and lube inside the necks.
For neck tension, mine seems to be just fine. Never really had to do much. It all checks in at .002 tension when seated. I used RCBS full length sizing die with expander. Haven’t had an issue yet.
The tumbling media I use is Franklin Quick-N-EZ walnut. Yes I get the dust and it can get a bit annoying. But it wipes or blowed off. Never thought of sushi rice. May give that a shot.
As for chamfering after my last tumble, you make sense on that one. I can switch that up.

 

[mbeavers1]

For case lube I use the Forster lubricant. I apply it with q-tips one by one and lube inside the necks.
For neck tension, mine seems to be just fine. Never really had to do much. It all checks in at .002 tension when seated. I used RCBS full length sizing die with expander. Haven’t had an issue yet.
The tumbling media I use is Franklin Quick-N-EZ walnut. Yes I get the dust and it can get a bit annoying. But it wipes or blowed off. Never thought of sushi rice. May give that a shot.
As for chamfering after my last tumble, you make sense on that one. I can switch that up.

https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/clean-brass-with-rice

 

[Lumbeejake]

Drive to Walmart.
Purchase Hornady Black 6.5 Creed.
Return home.
Drive to range.
Fill MagPul magazine.
Load magazine into rifle.
Fire loaded ammo at plate 500 yds downrange.
Examine target with .5 MOA group.
Leave fired cases for poors to pick up.
Pack up shit from bench.
Repeat as necessary

After jumping in the rabbit hole I do believe your process makes more sense. Hobby for when I retire I said. Shooting is a lot more fun.

 

[RaptorAddict]

Drive to Walmart.
Purchase Hornady Black 6.5 Creed.
Return home.
Drive to range.
Fill MagPul magazine.
Load magazine into rifle.
Fire loaded ammo at plate 500 yds downrange.
Examine target with .5 MOA group.
Leave fired cases for poors to pick up.
Pack up shit from bench.
Repeat as necessary

Reloading is my stress relief. May sound dumb, but figuring all this stuff out with cooking up loads, plus the concentration behind the gun and making consistent 1000 yd hits just feels DAMN GOOD!!!

 

[straightshooter1]

This is a list of steps in order I perform when reloading my 6.5CM for long range. I think I have it all down, but curious if anything is missing. Took a while to get all this in play as I kept thinking I had it all down. Always found I was missing something. LOL!

Anneal
Tumble
Lube Brass for Sizing
Size/deprime Brass with Measuring Should Bump
Headspace Check and Cut if Needed
Chamfer and Deburr
Clean Primer Pockets (once every 3 reloads)
Tumble
Seat Primers
Powder Charge
Bullet Seating
Final inspect with COAL Measurement

BTW, my friends see all this and just can't fathom doing all these steps just to go shoot. They say I'm crazy. LOL! ME: No, no, you just would never understand. HAHA!

My steps for my 6.5 PRC (typically 100 at a time) that are fired from a bench and the brass never hits the ground:

Deprime
Clean primer pockets with uniformer tool (pockets always uniform)
Anneal
Steel Wool (000) to clean neck and shoulder and be sure the abrasive annealing oxidation is removed
FL size w/o expander ball using Imperial Sizing Was (using 4-5 seconds of dwell time while getting the next case lubed)
Dry Tumble with Medium Grain rice (removes lube and leaving a very slight amount on neck's interior)
Expand Neck with expander mandrel (no lube needed)
3-way trim to length
Prime cases
Charge cases with powder
Seat bullets (no lube needed) to appropriate CBTO