I don't know if it is me , but my USO looks blurry, I have a 3.8x22 and at 100 yrds I can't get a clear picture the ret looks clear but I can't seem to focus, also my eye is sore after an hour of shooting.
Rifle Scopes My USO looks blurry
- Thread starter spiralseal
- Start date
Re: My USO looks blurry
Did you adjust the eyepiece? Did you adjust the ERGO parallax? Close up on highest magnification mine will ping pong a bit between focusing on the target and the reticle. (Mainly if there's not enough light. Like if it's twilight or really overcast out.)
Try keeping both eyes open.
Did you adjust the eyepiece? Did you adjust the ERGO parallax? Close up on highest magnification mine will ping pong a bit between focusing on the target and the reticle. (Mainly if there's not enough light. Like if it's twilight or really overcast out.)
Try keeping both eyes open.
Re: My USO looks blurry
Also.....don't rely on the objective markings to be correct unless you left the occular adjustment perfectly centered. Any change of the occular to correct reticle focus for your eyes will throw off the parallax-free markings. Adjust the objective to be parralax free and that is the correct setting.
Also.....don't rely on the objective markings to be correct unless you left the occular adjustment perfectly centered. Any change of the occular to correct reticle focus for your eyes will throw off the parallax-free markings. Adjust the objective to be parralax free and that is the correct setting.
Re: My USO looks blurry
It sounds like your ocular focus is off. Readjust it per the instructions included with your scope.
It sounds like your ocular focus is off. Readjust it per the instructions included with your scope.
Re: My USO looks blurry
Every now and again even USO gets one that won't quite clear up at 100 (I've seen it with friend's TPal). If adjusting the diopter then Ergo per the directions can't get it call USO.
They do have the best CS is in the business and will take care of you!
Every now and again even USO gets one that won't quite clear up at 100 (I've seen it with friend's TPal). If adjusting the diopter then Ergo per the directions can't get it call USO.
They do have the best CS is in the business and will take care of you!
Re: My USO looks blurry
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spiralseal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know if it is me , but my USO looks blurry, I have a 3.8x22 and at 100 yrds I can't get a clear picture the ret looks clear but I can't seem to focus, also my eye is sore after an hour of shooting. </div></div>
If you have <span style="font-weight: bold">properly</span> adjusted the scope's ocular/eyepiece for <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">your eyes</span></span> you should be able to adjust the the focus ring/knob to the point that the reticle and target are in simultaneous focus. Everyone's eyesight is different, which is why the ocular/eyepiece should be adjusted for <span style="font-weight: bold">your</span> eyesight. <span style="font-weight: bold">When the eyepiece/ocular is properly adjusted for your eyes the reticle will always be in sharp focus regardless of the image focus.</span>
Without having the ocular properly focused your eye may be "chasing the focus" as you try to focus on the target. When you look at something your eyes naturally focus on the object - the same thing happens when you look through a scope. So when adjusting either the Ocular or Parallax you shouldn't look through the scope for more than a couple of seconds at a time because your eye will automatically begin to compensate to bring the image into focus. This is why people who adjust the ocular and parallax all in one long turn, without looking away every few seconds sometimes get eyestrain and/or headaches.
Below is the correct procedure for Diopter (Ocular/Eyepiece) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes. The procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
However, if you still cannot achieve simultaneous reticle and image focus after following the above directions for Eyepiece/Ocular Focus, it is possible that there is a problem with the scope. As <span style="font-style: italic">sobrbiker883</span> says:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Every now and again even USO gets one that won't quite clear up at 100 (I've seen it with friend's TPal). If adjusting the diopter then Ergo per the directions can't get it call USO.
They do have the best CS is in the business and will take care of you! </div></div>
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spiralseal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't know if it is me , but my USO looks blurry, I have a 3.8x22 and at 100 yrds I can't get a clear picture the ret looks clear but I can't seem to focus, also my eye is sore after an hour of shooting. </div></div>
If you have <span style="font-weight: bold">properly</span> adjusted the scope's ocular/eyepiece for <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">your eyes</span></span> you should be able to adjust the the focus ring/knob to the point that the reticle and target are in simultaneous focus. Everyone's eyesight is different, which is why the ocular/eyepiece should be adjusted for <span style="font-weight: bold">your</span> eyesight. <span style="font-weight: bold">When the eyepiece/ocular is properly adjusted for your eyes the reticle will always be in sharp focus regardless of the image focus.</span>
Without having the ocular properly focused your eye may be "chasing the focus" as you try to focus on the target. When you look at something your eyes naturally focus on the object - the same thing happens when you look through a scope. So when adjusting either the Ocular or Parallax you shouldn't look through the scope for more than a couple of seconds at a time because your eye will automatically begin to compensate to bring the image into focus. This is why people who adjust the ocular and parallax all in one long turn, without looking away every few seconds sometimes get eyestrain and/or headaches.
Below is the correct procedure for Diopter (Ocular/Eyepiece) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes. The procedure is the same regardless of scope manufacturer, or whether the objective/parallax focus is on the objective ring or is a side focus type.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
However, if you still cannot achieve simultaneous reticle and image focus after following the above directions for Eyepiece/Ocular Focus, it is possible that there is a problem with the scope. As <span style="font-style: italic">sobrbiker883</span> says:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Every now and again even USO gets one that won't quite clear up at 100 (I've seen it with friend's TPal). If adjusting the diopter then Ergo per the directions can't get it call USO.
They do have the best CS is in the business and will take care of you! </div></div>
Keith
Re: My USO looks blurry
Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow, I also did not have an ARD installed, ARIES64, thanks for the info, this works wilt all scopes? Also I did not receive any instructions with my USO, any one have a spare set that they can download to me? Thanks,Dean
Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow, I also did not have an ARD installed, ARIES64, thanks for the info, this works wilt all scopes? Also I did not receive any instructions with my USO, any one have a spare set that they can download to me? Thanks,Dean
Re: My USO looks blurry
Also, if you ask, USO will send you pdf's of the instructions for your scope electronically....
Also, if you ask, USO will send you pdf's of the instructions for your scope electronically....
Re: My USO looks blurry
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spiralseal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow, I also did not have an ARD installed, <span style="font-weight: bold">ARIES64, thanks for the info, this works wilt all scopes?</span> Also I did not receive any instructions with my USO, any one have a spare set that they can download to me? Thanks,Dean </div></div>
Yes, the procedures I outlined are correct for Eyepiece/Ocular adjustment on both fixed and variable scopes, regardless of manufacture, and regardless of whether a scope is an objective focus or side focus model.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spiralseal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow, I also did not have an ARD installed, <span style="font-weight: bold">ARIES64, thanks for the info, this works wilt all scopes?</span> Also I did not receive any instructions with my USO, any one have a spare set that they can download to me? Thanks,Dean </div></div>
Yes, the procedures I outlined are correct for Eyepiece/Ocular adjustment on both fixed and variable scopes, regardless of manufacture, and regardless of whether a scope is an objective focus or side focus model.
Keith
Re: My USO looks blurry
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
So when adjusting either the Ocular or Parallax you shouldn't look through the scope for more than a couple of seconds at a time because your eye will automatically begin to compensate to bring the image into focus.
<span style="color: #33CC00">This is my main issue, I tend to stare through my USO until everything gets fuzzy as I try to rid parallax. I do not like the T-Pal, I think the ERGO is/will be easier to rid parallax. Once I get it free I leave it alone and then shoot fairly rapid which seems to give me the most consistent groups. </span>
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
<span style="color: #33CC00">I started with the ocular all the way out, went 1/4 turn in until it all got crisp, started over and then went about 1/4 more than the first time, ret is absolutely crisp now. </span>
Keith </div></div>
Good INTEL here!
Thanks
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
So when adjusting either the Ocular or Parallax you shouldn't look through the scope for more than a couple of seconds at a time because your eye will automatically begin to compensate to bring the image into focus.
<span style="color: #33CC00">This is my main issue, I tend to stare through my USO until everything gets fuzzy as I try to rid parallax. I do not like the T-Pal, I think the ERGO is/will be easier to rid parallax. Once I get it free I leave it alone and then shoot fairly rapid which seems to give me the most consistent groups. </span>
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
<span style="color: #33CC00">I started with the ocular all the way out, went 1/4 turn in until it all got crisp, started over and then went about 1/4 more than the first time, ret is absolutely crisp now. </span>
Keith </div></div>
Good INTEL here!
Thanks
Re: My USO looks blurry
Is this scope brand new from us or did you buy it used?
I will email you a set of instructions right now.
John III
Is this scope brand new from us or did you buy it used?
I will email you a set of instructions right now.
John III
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