Is it a good idea to neck size turn brass for 338 lm if so what is best equipment to complete this
Neck size turning
- Thread starter Smkngstv
- Start date
If you mean turning the necks for neck wall thickness consistency, you might want to check them first. I have Lapua, Nosler, and Hornady Brass. The Hornady and Lapua Brass have all been within such tight tolerances, that I wouldn't bother. I'm talking about .0145-.0150 all the way around. I can't shoot well enough to know the difference. No offense, but if you are asking the question, my guess is that you probably can't shoot well enough to know the difference with this tolerance either. I have yet to check my Nosler Brass, but I'd be surprised if it were much worse than the Lapua or Hornady is.
Turning the necks can be a bit of a rabbit hole.
You can run into problems with bullet tension and reloading dies.
If you are sure you want to do this then you need to know how and why.
Once you know why you need to know how much, and have solutions to the neck tension problems.
Accuracy gains will be minimal at best.
Welcome to the rabbit hole!
You can run into problems with bullet tension and reloading dies.
If you are sure you want to do this then you need to know how and why.
Once you know why you need to know how much, and have solutions to the neck tension problems.
Accuracy gains will be minimal at best.
Welcome to the rabbit hole!
if you're getting into competitive benchrest, sure. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother unless you're brass is crap.
I am not BR shooting and only have factory chambered rifles but I have found neck turning to be beneficial to my accuracy (ammo related issues only).
Regardless of which brand of brass I use, I fire form it once then neck size/shoulder bump using a Forster shoulder bump/neck size bushing die. I then trim.
For Neck Turning I only trim it so it "knocks off the bumps". I'm not trying to turn so that the case fits a custom chamber but merely making the neck portion of the brass uniform in thickness. I don't worry about cutting the full circumference of the neck, only about 270 degrees or so. Close examination of those cases will usually show that the cutter bit is leaving smalll marks on the un-cut portion indicating that I have the rest of the case down to that level.
Even neck wall thickness equates to even tension and if all the cases in the batch have even tension the likelihood of uniform bullet release in increased.
When turning necks it's essential that the case neck fit the turning tool mandrel as tight as possible yet still turn.
Regardless of which brand of brass I use, I fire form it once then neck size/shoulder bump using a Forster shoulder bump/neck size bushing die. I then trim.
For Neck Turning I only trim it so it "knocks off the bumps". I'm not trying to turn so that the case fits a custom chamber but merely making the neck portion of the brass uniform in thickness. I don't worry about cutting the full circumference of the neck, only about 270 degrees or so. Close examination of those cases will usually show that the cutter bit is leaving smalll marks on the un-cut portion indicating that I have the rest of the case down to that level.
Even neck wall thickness equates to even tension and if all the cases in the batch have even tension the likelihood of uniform bullet release in increased.
When turning necks it's essential that the case neck fit the turning tool mandrel as tight as possible yet still turn.
