Neck sizing and tension

[rick539]

Not new to reloading, but new to precision reloading. After hours and hours of reading and videos, kind of came up with a game plan and would like some input.

Plan on a Forester full size bushing die. Use a bushing to get neck tension to 0.003”, then use a mandrel die to open up to 0.002” of neck tension. I would hope this would help with concentricy and work any deformities out of the neck.
Input? Thanks

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Not new to reloading, but new to precision reloading. After hours and hours of reading and videos, kind of came up with a game plan and would like some input.

Plan on a Forester full size bushing die. Use a bushing to get neck tension to 0.003”, then use a mandrel die to open up to 0.002” of neck tension. I would hope this would help with concentricy and work any deformities out of the neck.
Input? Thanks

To see any results from the mandrel I think you will need to go down .004 and then back up to .002. Any less and it doesn't really do anything but kiss the brass. That said, this is a much debated topic. I personally tested it extensively and with brass that's already been 2x fired in my chamber, the mandrel didn't show up on target or in SD/ES compared to bushing sizing. That's not the experience of everyone though so do it if you want to but I would size it down more than 1 thou past where you want to end up and I think that's pretty much agreed on in the community . There's another thread on this topic active already you might want to check out

 

[hafejd30]

Many times an expanding mandrel may be a better idea if going .003 on the bushing. The turning is .002 less than bullet vs .001 with expanding. The .001 with spring back should yield .015 tension or so. Now results may very and .015 may or may not be enough tension depending what your using

 

[rick539]

Thank you. Exactly the kind of input I need. I’m waiting for my 6.5 barrel which will be a few months, so got time to figure this out.

 

[hafejd30]

I use Lee collet die for mine. It’s my preferred method vs a bushing/mandrel combo.

Lee collet/Redding body is my go to

 

[rick539]

So, should I go with just a non bushing fl die then use the mandrel. What is the average neck tension a straight fl die give.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

So, should I go with just a non bushing fl die then use the mandrel. What is the average neck tension a straight fl die give.

I personally wouldn't do that. Full length bushing sizing die is what you want. Just a matter of if you are going to use a mandrel or not, and then what size bushing depending on if you want to mandrel it up or what not

 

[Ronin22]

So, should I go with just a non bushing fl die then use the mandrel. What is the average neck tension a straight fl die give.

This is what works for me. I remove the decapper. Then use a mandrel to set the interference fit. .0015-.002. I anneal every firing to alleviate brass hardening. I find RCBS FL dies give .004-.0045 under caliber size. Redding .003-.0035

 

[918v]

So, should I go with just a non bushing fl die then use the mandrel. What is the average neck tension a straight fl die give.

It’s designed to give .002” when you use the supplied decamping/expanding assembly, but a mandrel produces better concentricity and it’s easier to acquire different sizes to get the bullet seating pressure perfect.

 

[hafejd30]

Like said already the bushing/mandrel will be most consistent. The idea is to not overwork the brass as well

However if your chasing small movements of brass and most consistent tension you will have to anneal eventually

 

[rick539]

Ok, let me get this straight. I have new alpha casings. Outside diameter is .291. Wall thickness is .014. This gives me an inner hole diameter of .263, which is .001 of tension. If I use a .288 bushing, this would give me .004 of neck tension. If I ran a .262 mandrel, this would give me my .002 neck tension (not accounting for spring back). Would this be over working if they were annealled.

 

[hafejd30]

Ok, let me get this straight. I have new alpha casings. Outside diameter is .291. Wall thickness is .014. This gives me an inner hole diameter of .263, which is .001 of tension. If I use a .288 bushing, this would give me .004 of neck tension. If I ran a .262 mandrel, this would give me my .002 neck tension (not accounting for spring back). Would this be over working if they were annealled.

Assuming your measuring outside diameter of your neck with bullet seated?

Take outside diameter with bullet seated. Subtract .003. Use that size bushing. Then expander mandrel as another step. Gives about .015 tension. Annealed every time

This is what I did

 

[918v]

Ok, let me get this straight. I have new alpha casings. Outside diameter is .291. Wall thickness is .014. This gives me an inner hole diameter of .263, which is .001 of tension. If I use a .288 bushing, this would give me .004 of neck tension. If I ran a .262 mandrel, this would give me my .002 neck tension (not accounting for spring back). Would this be over working if they were annealled.

No.

Overworking is taking a 308 case whose neck expanded to 345, FL sizing it down to 328, and then expanding it back out to 335. Add up the amount of brass movement.

In your case you’ll be sizing down from 297 to 288 and expanding back out to 290. That’s nothing in comparison. A standard FL die will take the neck down to 284. That’s still less than what 30 cal dies are doing

 

[CK1.0]

If you anneal your cases every firing then it almost doesn’t matter whether you use a regular FL die with the expander ball removed, a bushing die alone, or follow either with a mandrel.

That said, I still use a mandrel because I think my stuff comes out slightly better when using one.

But, it can be argued that the main thing the mandrel does is just fix up any mouths/necks that might have got banged out of whack while tumbling off the sizing lube (which happens more than most know until they look for it). If you’re not going to wait to do the mandrel step until after you’ve tumbled the lube off, then I wouldn’t even bother with one.

 

[Ronin22]

Do all bushing dies cause donuts? I might have an irrational fear of donuts...J/K

 

[spife7980]

Do all bushing dies cause donuts? I might have an irrational fear of donuts...J/K

Depends on your definition of donut.

All with a neck only bushing will leave an unsized ring of brass at the neck base due to the chamfer in the bushing.
If you get a neck/shoulder bushing that only a few boutiques die makers offer then they will size it all the way down.

If by donut you mean an actual thickness of neck material building up due to brass migration then the bushing doesn’t have any influence on that factor.

 

[Roblj4]

New here. Try not to throw stones at me. The concept of neck tension was introduced to me yesterday. I'm gathering you would measure diameter of an existing neck with a projectile seated to get a starting point?

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

New here. Try not to throw stones at me. The concept of neck tension was introduced to me yesterday. I'm gathering you would measure diameter of an existing neck with a projectile seated to get a starting point?

That's right. Of course it needs to he the brass you will use and bullet but yes.

 

[Roblj4]

Like said already the bushing/mandrel will be most consistent. The idea is to not overwork the brass as well

However if your chasing small movements of brass and most consistent tension you will have to anneal eventually

New. Don't throw rocks at me. Learning here lol. Why would you have to anneal? We are assuming that the brass would experience greater stress during the sizing and then mandrel die usage? Or is to prevent future stresses on the brass?

 

[Roblj4]

That's right. Of course it needs to he the brass you will use and bullet but yes.

Vaugley, what is the process? Measure neck tension on current brass with bullet seated (my stuff that I am shooting) and then measure after sizing to see what the difference is? Somewhere in the .002 range? I understand that neck consistent neck tension is desirable to make sure that the bullet releases from the brass the same way each time. Just don't know the rest.

 

[hafejd30]

New. Don't throw rocks at me. Learning here lol. Why would you have to anneal? We are assuming that the brass would experience greater stress during the sizing and then mandrel die usage? Or is to prevent future stresses on the brass?

Brass gets work hardened from firing/sizing. Making spring back and what not more likely when sizing. Thus giving inconsistent neck tension. Annealing softens the brass to make it consistent

 

[Roblj4]

Brass gets work hardened from firing/sizing. Making spring back and what not more likely when sizing. Thus giving inconsistent neck tension. Annealing softens the brass to make it consistent

That makes much more sense. So annealing can assist with consisten neck tension and spring back of brass. Thank you

 

[hafejd30]

That makes much more sense. So annealing can assist with consisten neck tension and spring back of brass. Thank you

It can also lengthen the life of your brass. Helps with split necks.

I personally do it for consistency

 

[Roblj4]

It can also lengthen the life of your brass. Helps with split necks.

I personally do it for consistency

Is there an accurate way to do this without a dedicated annealer? I know, dumb question. New to the concept.

 

[hafejd30]

Is there an accurate way to do this without a dedicated annealer? I know, dumb question. New to the concept.

Not really in my opinion

You want consistent temp/time. Some do it with a drill and socket. There’s many that overheat brass or not heat enough to accomplish anything

Whatever method you choose I’d use tempilaq to check your results. I run 750 in the neck, 650 below the shoulder and 400 mid case. To make sure I’m getting to temp but not compromising my case head by heating it up. Hence the 400° tempilaq.

I run dual torches on a bench source. Not saying it can’t be done in a simpler fashion but the biggest thing is it’s consistent and actually annealing

 

[Roblj4]

Not really in my opinion

You want consistent temp/time. Some do it with a drill and socket. There’s many that overheat brass or not heat enough to accomplish anything

Whatever method you choose I’d use tempilaq to check your results. I run 750 in the neck, 650 below the shoulder and 400 mid case. To make sure I’m getting to temp but not compromising my case head by heating it up. Hence the 400° tempilaq.

I run dual torches on a bench source. Not saying it can’t be done in a simpler fashion but the biggest thing is it’s consistent and actually annealing

Understood. Thank you. I will start looking into annealers.

 

[R_A_W]

Measure neck tension on current brass with bullet seated (my stuff that I am shooting) and then measure after sizing to see what the difference is? Somewhere in the .002 range?

Yeah you’ve got it, it's pretty easy. There are a few ways to go about this, but this is the simplest

1. Measure the OD of a loaded round, in this example you should have something like 0.294"
2. Determine your desired "neck tension", say 0.002", & subtract it from the above OD.
3. Choose a bushing/mandrel combination that will size the OD of unloaded brass to this diameter. In this example, you'd be looking for 0.292" OD on your unloaded, sized brass

above edited - I typed out my mental model for neck tension, which isn’t really correct

Some more info

Is there an accurate way to do this without a dedicated annealer?

x2 on @hafejd30, no. Also, if you over anneal, that brass is trash. You cannot recover it.

 

[Roblj4]

It's pretty easy. Assume you're loading 6.5 Creedmoor in Lapua brass.

1. You measure the neck thickness of your unloaded brass (e.g. Lapua 6.5cm is 0.015"), write that down.
2. Load a complete round using your normal process & measure the OD of the neck on that loaded round (say you get 0.292"), write that down.
3. You then take that OD measurement & from it subtract 2x the brass neck thickness. In this example, you would have 0.292" - (2 x 0.015") = 0.262"
4. Subtract that number from the bullet diameter. In this example, the 0.262" subtracted from the 0.264" bullet diameter would mean you have 0.002" of "neck tension".

x2 on @hafejd30, no. Also, if you over anneal, that brass is trash. You cannot recover it.

Understood. I'll give this a try. Thanks for the info.

 

[R_A_W]

Understood. I'll give this a try. Thanks for the info.

I responded while I was on a phone call... I retyped the above, please reread.

Neck tension is somewhat a misnomer, you're really looking for "interference fit".

 

[Roblj4]

I responded while I was on a phone call... I retyped the above, please reread.

Neck tension is somewhat a misnomer, you're really looking for "interference fit".

Understood. I reread it. Is this the measurement you need to take to order the expander mandrel die? I saw an order form that requires a similar measurement. I'll give this a try and report back.

 

[R_A_W]

I’m not sure… I use a Porter Precision Products, their “starter kit” (or whatever they call it) comes with 5 or 6 different diameter mandrel.

There are a lot of factors that will impact the sizing of brass, like thickness, hardness, lubrication from carbon deposits… it’s not something that I try and calculate in order to only have 1 neck bushing & 1 mandrel.

 

[supercorndogs]

Is there an accurate way to do this without a dedicated annealer? I know, dumb question. New to the concept.

Yes look up torch and drill annealing.

 

[spife7980]

Understood. I reread it. Is this the measurement you need to take to order the expander mandrel die? I saw an order form that requires a similar measurement. I'll give this a try and report back.

The outside loaded round diameter is for a bushing that tells you how much smaller it makes it sizing down from the outside.

For the mandrel diameter you will want an inside measurement so you can either 1) take the outside diameter from before and subtract the brass thickness or 2) order whatever the amount smaller than your bullet diameter.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Vaugley, what is the process? Measure neck tension on current brass with bullet seated (my stuff that I am shooting) and then measure after sizing to see what the difference is? Somewhere in the .002 range? I understand that neck consistent neck tension is desirable to make sure that the bullet releases from the brass the same way each time. Just don't know the rest.

I see @spife7980 answered your question already but as far as a mandrel goes you really have to test it yourself. For me, 2thou under (.2440" for 6cm )works great and is enough neck tension to keep the bullet from moving during transport or clambering ect... I do a little more than that for my .223 ar rounds though because of the beating they take.

So back to the 6cm: I use a .270 bushing and a .2440" mandrel, and thats with a Berger 108/109 bullet and lapua brass. I think I tried .2424, and .2431 also when I was doing all of the mandrel testing which is basically 3 thou and 3.5thou under and I went with the .2440.

I will also tell you about some other tests that I've done. I tested 2x or more fired brass doing just the bushing and no mandrel VS bushing and mandrel and I saw no difference in SD or on target. Now everyone does not have that same experience/opinion, but many do. I only use a mandrel to fix a dented neck or something after I fire the brass 2x.

My mandrel doesn't really expand the brass much when I use a .270 bushing, which is why think it didn't show any difference. I just said that to say that, the mandrel may or may not even be necessary for you, so just try it out and see. I think almost everyone at least with lapua brass uses one of .269, .270, or .271 bushing for 6mm though so take that into consideration.