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Neck Turning for factory guns

spradley

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 13, 2012
95
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Leeds, Alabama
I'm at the point in my reloading where I'd like to branch out a bit.
My question is do you guys think it's worth it or beneficial to outside neck turn brass for factory guns?

All my handloads are plenty fine for hunting but never hurts to improve if possible.

Also if bullet concentricity and neck tension affect accuracy surely neck turning will help even on a factory barrel?
This got me to thinking. Last year I bought a Savage 110 lightweight hunter in 260. My first hand loads were no where near max pressures and seated .010 jammed. Seems jamming would greatly reduce the ability for a bullet to wobble in the lands?
With the bullets .010 jammed this rifle shot incredibly well for a skinny barrelled gun.

http://cruton.bmg.uab.edu/pics/savage/DSC02636.JPG

So to recap:
1. Beneficial to outside neck turn for factory chambers?
2. Does bullet jamming reduce ability for bullet to wobble in lands thus improving accuracy?

thanks
 

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6mmbr.com has a plethora of information about the subject and can point in the right direction if its something you need to do!
Lots of good articles their about other reloading topics as well. Def worth adding to the favorites bar
Best of luck
 
1. Can be. You're on the right track. That is if it helps your concentricity by any appreciable amount.
2. Seating to jam can help. Depends on your bullet as much as your rifle. Experimenting will yield your best answer.

6mmbr is a great resource
 
if you have the time go for it. but with tht group id be pretty happy.

smks dont mind a jump, bergers usually like pretty close. it seems like everybodys saying the same thing. when i have time i turn necks with a K&M good tool. i like using a small drill with it.
 
1. Neck turning is beneficial. It will help reduce the ES & SD numbers which affects down range vertical spread.
2. Jamming does not correct bullet runout (IMO). Whether the bullet likes being jammed or jumped is dependent on a number of variables.i
 
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For my factory rifles I just neck turn enough to smooth out the bumps on the case. Once I find a good setting that cleans an average of 270 degrees of the neck circumference I just use that setting for all cases with that headstamp. Some get a full cut, some only 3/4 or so, but it has tightened the groups from my rifle.

Like the beer ad says, "It's only weird if it doesn't work".
 
Thanks for all the great info.. interestingly enough that three shot group was with Nosler partitions.
I'm going to scour 6mmbr.com now.
 
I really dont think neck turning is going to do squat with a factory rig, my model 70 '06 shoots a tad over 1/2moa out to 300yds, no neck turning, my 700SPSS shoots at or a tad under 1/2moa out to 300yds, no neck turning, my 6mmREM shoots 1/4-1/3moa, yada yada, and that thing has a neck expansion about .010". If your brass is pretty decent, load it up and go shooting, dont waste your time turning necks.
2011-06-25-83129-1.jpg

6mmtargets.jpg

6mmtarg.jpg
 
I use the base model sinclair tool with a Lee case holder chucked in a handheld electric screw driver. I use a ball micrometer to measure for the thinnest neck on all the cases I am working with in a lot. Turn the thinnest to where 75 % of that neck is touched by the cutter all the way around and you want to cut into where the neck moves into the shoulder just a hair. This helps prevent donuts. Turn all the necks with the cutter adjusted to the first case that way each neck is the same thickness. This helps with consistent neck tension.

All in all do what makes you have more confidence in you and your loads.
 
It's probably yields better results when using lower grade brass like RP or WW. For some of us there's not other alternatives.

I like the sinclair neck turner and the redding case neck gage as opposed to getting out the micrometer. Take off just enough so all your brass is within < 0.001" or 0.0005" of each other.