Moving to neck turning.
insights on K&M or 21st stysts for Lapua brass?
insights on K&M or 21st stysts for Lapua brass?
- Thread starter Jimgal62
- Start date
I have K & M for neck turning and 21st Century for priming. They're both the shizzle. You cant go wrong with either brand. I particularly love my 21st Century priming tool.
Thanks for the feedback.
The 21st Century is top of the line.
I use the 21st century and am happy with h it.
What neck thickness due you turn your Lapua 308 and 6.5 brass...0.015"?
My 21st is just about fool proof. I really like mine and it turns very consistent necks
I turn my .308W to .014" and my 6mm to .0135 wall thickness. I only take off the minimum amount required to get consistent thickness all the way around the neck. I don't take much off because I use nothing but Lapua and it's very good right out of the box.
Thx for the feedback. Very much appreciated
I have moved to Lapua for 308 Win and 6.5 CM.
Does anyone have recommendation on neck thickness for 6.5 CM Lapua brass?
I have moved to Lapua for 308 Win and 6.5 CM.
Does anyone have recommendation on neck thickness for 6.5 CM Lapua brass?
If you dont get an "exact" answer, I think it is because there isn't an exact answer.
"Generally" neck turning is done to gain more consistency throughout the range of ones' brass, for me neck tension is more consistent.
If I can offer you any advice, and it was mentioned above, I would just start out doing a skim turn of the brass, and I would have a way of measuring my neck wall thickness as I went.
I have 3 of the 6.5 saum calibers and used the no turn neck reamer, and after the first outing still went back and turned my necks and the improvement of my groups was well noticed. In essence, I actually turned my necks on once fired. I have, as well, turned necks on the larger calibers, 300 RUM and noticed a touch of improvement, these were also once fired.
I think when you start to actually turn the "Lapua" necks, your not going to need to take off very much. Again, for the most part think consistency, unless you have designed a tight neck chamber that needs more turning than just a skimming? Dont be afraid of a light second pass after they have been fired and formed to the chamber.
Guess I could've have stated, the SAUM is Remington brass, and I ended up with .0145 neck wall thickness when I was to where I needed/wanted to be.
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Thanks.
Good advice.
Good advice.
I echo Dave300's response but stronger on the question of:
1) Do you have a tight neck chamber so you HAVE to turn to get clearance? If so, you need to do a little measuring and subtraction to get the neck thickness to turn the necks to so that you have a safe loaded cartridge.
2) Do you have a SAAMI chamber and are turning solely because you want to have consistent neck thickness? If so, I would recommend just turning as little as is necessary to clean up the necks, or to just barely catch the whole neck with the turn. This will help prevent overworking the necks when reloading. The more you turn off, the more that neck expands when you shoot.
1) Do you have a tight neck chamber so you HAVE to turn to get clearance? If so, you need to do a little measuring and subtraction to get the neck thickness to turn the necks to so that you have a safe loaded cartridge.
2) Do you have a SAAMI chamber and are turning solely because you want to have consistent neck thickness? If so, I would recommend just turning as little as is necessary to clean up the necks, or to just barely catch the whole neck with the turn. This will help prevent overworking the necks when reloading. The more you turn off, the more that neck expands when you shoot.
Thx
On a tight neck chamber I turn for .0015 to .002 neck clearance. On these rifles, reliability in the field and in harsh conditions is not a concern. On others, I just try to clean up about 60 or 70% of the neck.
I have neck tools from Forster, K&M, Sinclair and PMA. The Forster does a good job and makes a good clean cut but is hard to adjust. The other 3 are easier to adjust but cost 2X more. I have also used a Hart tool that was nice. Theres not really a wrong answer but I feel that the more expensive brands are a better tool than the Lyman, Hornady and RCBS tools.
As far as neck turning goes, I quit turning necks for all but my tight neck rifles. The improvement is accurate did not rate the amount of work for me in a factory rifle.
I have neck tools from Forster, K&M, Sinclair and PMA. The Forster does a good job and makes a good clean cut but is hard to adjust. The other 3 are easier to adjust but cost 2X more. I have also used a Hart tool that was nice. Theres not really a wrong answer but I feel that the more expensive brands are a better tool than the Lyman, Hornady and RCBS tools.
As far as neck turning goes, I quit turning necks for all but my tight neck rifles. The improvement is accurate did not rate the amount of work for me in a factory rifle.
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