Neck turning vs reaming?
- Thread starter Derek01
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Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
Your talking about a s%^* load of work just to be able to trim brass, are you sure the collet is the correct size, can a bullet just drop in a fired case, if so the collet is not the correct size.
Your talking about a s%^* load of work just to be able to trim brass, are you sure the collet is the correct size, can a bullet just drop in a fired case, if so the collet is not the correct size.
Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
I resized the brass, didn't think to drop a bullet through before resizing. The collet is correct. A buddy just told me to get the sinclair neck expanding mandrel for 223, then turn the necks. A lot of work but this gun shoots like a champ so... what can you do. Thanks for your help though
I resized the brass, didn't think to drop a bullet through before resizing. The collet is correct. A buddy just told me to get the sinclair neck expanding mandrel for 223, then turn the necks. A lot of work but this gun shoots like a champ so... what can you do. Thanks for your help though
Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
I reform a lot of brass for my 221 Fireball and my 25-06. I use the K&M tool (like aloreman is suggesting) and use the carbide neck reamer at the same time I outside neck turn. Not much work at all and I get excellent results.
I reform a lot of brass for my 221 Fireball and my 25-06. I use the K&M tool (like aloreman is suggesting) and use the carbide neck reamer at the same time I outside neck turn. Not much work at all and I get excellent results.
Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Derek01</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I necked down some lapua 243 brass to 22cal. Shot great. Resized and tried to trim but the 22 trimmer collet won't fit in the case. Would it be better to ream inside the neck or measure and turn the outside of the neck? </div></div>
For accuracy you do both. You want a consistent neck thickness to cut any possible problems with irregular brass thickness. When I used to shoot Palma and 1000 yard matches, I did both. I also uniform the primer pockets (even on new brass, you'll find they need it) and also the flash hole. Best primer pocket uniformer on the market currently is the K&M, for flash holes the little Sinclair tool that does it .081 is fast, the K&M that indexes off the case mouth it better, but slower. Since all brass (boxer primed) is punched, you will find burrs in the flash holes even with new brass. Commercial brass I use is strictly Lapua and Norma. I do both on both. I also use a Forster CoAx press because of concentricity issues. On a normal single stage, there are problems. On a progressive press, you won't get tack driving ammo. The USMTU (or AMU or AMTU) uses 20 CoAx presses for all serious distance ammo. They stopped by where I was at Perry to see one of the Pogo sticks I had there (M1A/Devine).
Personally I love the .243. Great little brush gun and I used one for Coyotes in SoCal. But than I'm a .30 shooter (although I do shoot a lot other calibers up to .50).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Derek01</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I necked down some lapua 243 brass to 22cal. Shot great. Resized and tried to trim but the 22 trimmer collet won't fit in the case. Would it be better to ream inside the neck or measure and turn the outside of the neck? </div></div>
For accuracy you do both. You want a consistent neck thickness to cut any possible problems with irregular brass thickness. When I used to shoot Palma and 1000 yard matches, I did both. I also uniform the primer pockets (even on new brass, you'll find they need it) and also the flash hole. Best primer pocket uniformer on the market currently is the K&M, for flash holes the little Sinclair tool that does it .081 is fast, the K&M that indexes off the case mouth it better, but slower. Since all brass (boxer primed) is punched, you will find burrs in the flash holes even with new brass. Commercial brass I use is strictly Lapua and Norma. I do both on both. I also use a Forster CoAx press because of concentricity issues. On a normal single stage, there are problems. On a progressive press, you won't get tack driving ammo. The USMTU (or AMU or AMTU) uses 20 CoAx presses for all serious distance ammo. They stopped by where I was at Perry to see one of the Pogo sticks I had there (M1A/Devine).
Personally I love the .243. Great little brush gun and I used one for Coyotes in SoCal. But than I'm a .30 shooter (although I do shoot a lot other calibers up to .50).
Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flashhole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I reform a lot of brass for my 221 Fireball and my 25-06. I use the K&M tool (like aloreman is suggesting) and use the carbide neck reamer at the same time I outside neck turn. Not much work at all and I get excellent results. </div></div>
What tool do you use to neck ream and turn at the same time?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flashhole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I reform a lot of brass for my 221 Fireball and my 25-06. I use the K&M tool (like aloreman is suggesting) and use the carbide neck reamer at the same time I outside neck turn. Not much work at all and I get excellent results. </div></div>
What tool do you use to neck ream and turn at the same time?
Re: Neck turning vs reaming?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flashhole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">427 cobra - What's wrong with Photobucket? </div></div>
I get sick of seeing this
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flashhole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">427 cobra - What's wrong with Photobucket? </div></div>
I get sick of seeing this
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