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Need a new rimfire T1X or CZ457?

Rate_of_Twist

Rate Of Twist
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Minuteman
Jan 29, 2018
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A few months ago I started shooting again as some stress relief. I’ve shot competitively before (USPSA) but my job and family life don’t leave time for that right now.

I now have a range partner, my 12 year old son has taken an interest and we have a great time shooting for fun only bringing rimfire rifles to the range.

I currently have a CZ455 Tacticool with an Athlon Talos BTR sitting on it that my son prefers to the 10/22 so I want another bolt .22lr for myself.

Voduu V22 is the dream, but not really in the budget anytime soon.

In my mind it comes down to the T1X or the CZ 457.

Budget for the rifle is $1k ish

The T1X would go in a Bravo chassis before it ever got to the range

The CZ457 Varmint Chassis is interesting but will likely be hard to find and KRG has yet to announce a 457 Chassis so it would likely be the Varmint AT-One or Varmint Precision Trainer

Optic will be a Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 I already own

I would like to get to a point where I’m proficient enough again to show up to a NRL22 type match and shoot and not be pissed at myself for not being able to hit a thing. (I don’t care about shooting in a specific division, I’m only shooting against myself and to learn)

Thoughts?
 
If you got a $1000 budget. T1X in a Bravo will allow you everything you can really need. Pay $68 and get the Arca Rail and get an Arca attach bipod too... will allow you to customize your bipod location for some stages.

1577472417440.png
 
Gonna want/need a Area 419 30 MOA rail too. And a Sterk bolt handle. And a new bipod. And... :geek:


Have fun with it and your son.
 
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Either one is a bit of a crap shoot as far as accuracy (true of most 22 rifles). Seems like the Tikka has fewer bad reports. And it looks good in that KRG.
 
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Either one is a bit of a crap shoot as far as accuracy (true of most 22 rifles). Seems like the Tikka has fewer bad reports. And it looks good in that KRG.

You'll be accurate enough for NRL22. Factory Tikka, 5 shot group averages - 100 yards.

Ammo TypeAVERAGE of Group SizeSTDEV of Group SizeN Count
CCI Green Tag1.9330.8136
CCI SV1.3990.49030
Eley Club1.6190.54616
Eley Contact1.5710.3948
Eley Match Biathlon0.8820.2826
Eley Match Pistol1.4170.54612
Eley Target1.2460.37534
Eley Tenex0.9130.23523
Lapua Pistol King1.0280.31912
SK Long Range Match1.1540.31235
SK Standard Plus1.1260.35683
 
My .02... The only way to know if a missed target was you or a rifle/ammo/optic issue is to eliminate all, or as many as possible, equipment variables. That means a rifle capable of sub MOA accuracy which is shooting properly lot tested ammo, while looking through a clear and reliable optic. The PST gen II that you mentioned should fit the bill just fine. Your biggest obstacle is going to be the out of box accuracy potential of either the 457 or T1X. I honestly can't speak to the Tikka as I don't own one. The CZ 455 and 457 though, I do have quite a bit of experience. Here's my take on CZ's...

Great, well built rifles. However, low QC standards on their "standard" barrels. If you decide to buy a CZ, your best chance of getting a shooter out of the box lies in the MTR model with it's match spec chamber. I would start with either the MTR and then add the chassis down the road, or, I'd buy the chassis Varmint model and expect that there is a high probability that you will want/need an aftermarket barrel to achieve accuracy goals in line with being NRL22 competetive.

I am an NRL22 MD and I have the pleasure of shooting against 2 of the country's top competitors every month. Both shoot Vudoos topped with Nightforce ATACR's. I shoot a CZ VPT rebarelled with a Lilja, and topped with a Vortex PST Gen II. I've sent my rifle to the Lapua test center for lot testing. So, rifle/ammo/optic..✔ On paper, my rifle will hold it's own against their rifles. In competition, I know if a miss is my mistake because all other variables are covered. Therefore, I know what to practice.

The choice is obviously yours, either rifle can be upgraded as you go, if you desire. The important thing is to have fun and make sure that your son is also!
 
You'll be accurate enough for NRL22. Factory Tikka, 5 shot group averages - 100 yards.

Ammo TypeAVERAGE of Group SizeSTDEV of Group SizeN Count
CCI Green Tag1.9330.8136
CCI SV1.3990.49030
Eley Club1.6190.54616
Eley Contact1.5710.3948
Eley Match Biathlon0.8820.2826
Eley Match Pistol1.4170.54612
Eley Target1.2460.37534
Eley Tenex0.9130.23523
Lapua Pistol King1.0280.31912
SK Long Range Match1.1540.31235
SK Standard Plus1.1260.35683

Not trying to be a difficult, but if someone wants to be competetive in the NRL22, their rifle needs to shoot sub-moa.. Period!

Most targets are 2 moa in the NRL22, but there are occasions where they are even smaller. Add environmental factors to the bc of a 22lr slug and all of a sudden a 2" target at 100 yds becomes iffy. The guys that I shoot against are shooting rifles and ammo that consistently shoot .75 moa or smaller and they usually score 460 to 498 every month! Those scores are representative of the quality of their equipment and ammo as well as their talent.
 
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Not trying to be a difficult, but if someone wants to be competetive in the NRL22, their rifle needs to shoot sub-moa.. Period!

Most targets are 2 moa in the NRL22, but there are occasions where they are even smaller. Add environmental factors to the bc of a 22lr slug and all of a sudden a 2" target at 100 yds becomes iffy. The guys that I shoot against are shooting rifles and ammo that consistently shoot .75 moa or smaller and they usually score 460 to 498 every month! Those scores are representative of the quality of their equipment and ammo as well as their talent.

I have no delusions of being “competitive” and if by some chance I’m good and have the time to dedicate to becoming good the $4k into a rifle and optic isn’t an issue.

Personally, this is really about having fun shooting again and getting better.

I would like my next rifle to be good enough to allow me to progress past “minute of soda can” at 100 yards to “can show up and shoot ok at a rimfire match and learn from people that know what they are doing” and doing so within a reasonable budget (for me)

I’m in the northeast, so I have no idea if NRL22 matches exist anywhere

Edit: Of course I’m saying all of this while looking at Vudoo’s website
 
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I have no delusions of being “competitive” and if by some chance I’m good and have the time to dedicate to becoming good the $4k into a rifle and optic isn’t an issue.

Personally, this is really about having fun shooting again and getting better.

I would like my next rifle to be good enough to allow me to progress past “minute of soda can” at 100 yards to “can show up and shoot ok at a rimfire match and learn from people that know what they are doing” and doing so within a reasonable budget (for me)

I’m in the northeast, so I have no idea if NRL22 matches exist anywhere

Edit: Of course I’m saying all of this while looking at Vudoo’s website
That's a great mindset! Love the Vudoo comment.. LMAO!

I forgot to ask if you have considered the new Bergara bolt rifle? It obviously doesn't have a chassis, but I've seen enough good groups posted to believe that they are a great NRL22 rifle. Besides that, they look to be an even better "Vudoo intro rifle" than the Tikka or CZ.. ?

Let me know if you need any help finding a club to shoot with. What state are you in?
 
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Not to argue, but... That's a sample from how many guns?

Sorry this is just the sample of my gun. But following the Tikka T1X Thread and the 6x5's I've seen quite a few people shoot better than me with their factory rifles. One of the people had 3 Tikka's, I believe 2 of 3 shot sub moa, but not sure about the last one. Father in law just got a T1X for Christmas, so I'll help him out and might shoot some groups with it too to see how it holds up.
 
Not trying to be a difficult, but if someone wants to be competetive in the NRL22, their rifle needs to shoot sub-moa.. Period!

Most targets are 2 moa in the NRL22, but there are occasions where they are even smaller. Add environmental factors to the bc of a 22lr slug and all of a sudden a 2" target at 100 yds becomes iffy. The guys that I shoot against are shooting rifles and ammo that consistently shoot .75 moa or smaller and they usually score 460 to 498 every month! Those scores are representative of the quality of their equipment and ammo as well as their talent.

Yes if we're talking about top tier competitive, but there's also some growing room. That shooter who's shooting a 460 to 498, it wasn't their first rodeo, and they've probably been shooting and practicing quite some time.

I just don't want people discouraged that they can't do NRL22 unless they have a V22.

The B14R looks like a great rifle, if you like the stock and it feels good, then $855-900 is a great price. I haven't seen enough sample size of groups to tell how well it shoots.

If you had $900, a CZ457 or T1X Rebarreled would also be around that same price too.
 
Sorry this is just the sample of my gun. But following the Tikka T1X Thread and the 6x5's I've seen quite a few people shoot better than me with their factory rifles. One of the people had 3 Tikka's, I believe 2 of 3 shot sub moa, but not sure about the last one. Father in law just got a T1X for Christmas, so I'll help him out and might shoot some groups with it too to see how it holds up.

the numbers look about right

it just shows the type of ammo you need to shoot in order to be competitive

getting a 22lr to shoot sub 0.5MOA is not cheap

edit:
forgot to mention, my vote for a T1x
until funds are saved/justified for a V22
don't forget about Anschutz as well
 
the numbers look about right

it just shows the type of ammo you need to shoot in order to be competitive

getting a 22lr to shoot sub 0.5MOA is not cheap

edit:
forgot to mention, my vote for a T1x
until funds are saved/justified for a V22
don't forget about Anschutz as well

I'll most likely be getting a V22 middle of next year. My progression was --

Had a 10/22 w/ a 3-10x scope that wouldn't parallax below 50, and a cheapo bipod. Went and did a match, and see what it was all about. It was a blast. Finished 11th out of 13 shooters.

Immediately ordered a T1X with a KRG Bravo from all the SnipersHide reading. Got a good deal on an Ares BTR. I missed the next 2 matches due to work, but had a good amount of just practicing and getting behind the rifle. Ended up finishing 4th, but it was a big margin, 72% of the winner's points.

Did more practice, best upgrades I had were - Precision Underground ELR Bag, Wiebad Mini Fortune Cookie, and a better Bipod (Got an Atlas). Ended up placing 92% and 94% of winner's score in the next 2 matches.

Then I decided I wanted to go Arca, and bought a MDT Chassis, along with a new barrel to make it heavier. Of course impatience, I put it on the week before the match.

Had a horrible outing with only 2 days behind the rifle at the match. Finished like 64% of the winner's points. Spent another month training and running through stages with the new chassis and bipod/sling configuration. And ended up placing first at the December match.

One thing to note - if you do a rebarrel, don't get a Winchester 52D chamber. It's just too tight, makes feeding a lot of work. My new barrel shoots great, but the feeding is a pain in the ass in a timed match. I'm looking to rebarrel again to something a little smoother, maybe PTG Match or Lilja or Eley EPS. Just having to push the bullet into the rifling before I can cam requires a bit more force.

--

Another big big big tip. Do ammo testing, find the ammo the rifle likes. And then buy 1-2 cases of that ammo. You do NOT want to be checking and rechecking dope every 500 rounds because you decided to just buy a brick here and there. It will make it horrible for progression, and you will spend more time at the range shooting for groups, and testing your zero/dope, instead of spending that time practicing. I went to goodshootinginc, bought some test lots of the ammo that shot fairly well, then bought 5000 rounds of that lot #. Went and did an hour to dope out to 200, and now all I do is practice with my range time, instead of testing ammo for groups.
 
That's a great mindset! Love the Vudoo comment.. LMAO!

I forgot to ask if you have considered the new Bergara bolt rifle? It obviously doesn't have a chassis, but I've seen enough good groups posted to believe that they are a great NRL22 rifle. Besides that, they look to be an even better "Vudoo intro rifle" than the Tikka or CZ.. ?

Let me know if you need any help finding a club to shoot with. What state are you in?

I saw the thread on the Bergara and it looked interesting but:

1. The CZ and the Tikka both are known to have not so good barrels are times and the aftermarket supports that in at least some way with higher performing offerings. It’s hard to find video of the B14r at the moment let alone accuracy testing or aftermarket barrel support if it’s a turd.
2. For me personally, if Bergara really did rip off the Vudoo magazine design or concept then I’m not really sure they are a company I want to do business with. From everything I’ve seen here on the “Hide” from Ravege88 / Mike (I believe) Vudoo is the type of company I like buying stuff from, and I would hate to see them impacted or hurt by another company. Again, these are my own personal beliefs, so I’m not looking to light fire to anyone who wants or has a Bergara.

I also would like whatever rimfire I end up with to land in a KRG chassis (at some point) as it’s inevitable that I will build some sort of center fire partner to the rifle (I joined the hide a few years back and placed an order on a PVA JH, but backed out because it turned into a train wreck)
 
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If you can get a B14R barreled action for $750 or whatever price they come out as, that might be pretty decent. I don't know what the Vudoo licensing story is... I think Defiant and Curtis are also making R700 22 platforms, and they licensed to use V22 magazines. The cost of their actions? I'm not sure.

Going in on that R700 platform will probably be the easiest.

I started with a Tikka T3X, as my hunting rifle, then I found out about PRS and such, so I built a Tikka rimfire. I'm working up to them being twins and re-using fundamentals for both centerfire and rimfire PRS.

If you're starting from scratch you'll have a lot more re-use and options sticking with R700. Tikka has quite a following so at least from a MDT side, all of their chassis for T3 SA works on my T1X which is great. But still more options on the R700 side.

--

This might be a bad suggestion, but if you just wanted to go cheap and play the game - Find a RPRR for $350, go play around in Base class in NRL22. Save up for a V22. Sell the RPRR used for like $299, only going to lose $50-75 "renting" that gun for a few months...
 
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You'll be accurate enough for NRL22. Factory Tikka, 5 shot group averages - 100 yards.

Ammo TypeAVERAGE of Group SizeSTDEV of Group SizeN Count
CCI Green Tag1.9330.8136
CCI SV1.3990.49030
Eley Club1.6190.54616
Eley Contact1.5710.3948
Eley Match Biathlon0.8820.2826
Eley Match Pistol1.4170.54612
Eley Target1.2460.37534
Eley Tenex0.9130.23523
Lapua Pistol King1.0280.31912
SK Long Range Match1.1540.31235
SK Standard Plus1.1260.35683

thanks for posting your groups gives me an idea on what ammo to start with.
 
I have a CZ 457 PV and it shoots really well. 1in at 100yd avg with standard sk and standard eley. You can always get a XLR chassis or MDT for it. Would recommend it.
 
T1x in a bravo is a good way to go.
Bravo gives you lots of options and the tikka factory trigger is one of the best
 
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I have a T1x, and with decent ammo, it's definitely sub-MOA. I use some basic SK Standard+, and accuracy is great, more than what you'd need for an NRL22 match. The Tikka trigger is also fantastic, and won't hold you back at all.

IMO, people get too caught up in how their gun feels while they're fiddling in their garage; under real world conditions, you won't notice all the little "issues" that people cite in forums.
 
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I’m in the northeast, so I have no idea if NRL22 matches exist anywhere

DRB - not sure where you are in the northeast but if you are anywhere close, you can check out the Mid Atlantic Rimfire Series. We have matches in PA, MD, VA and WV.

also, check out the NRL22 site. they have a match finder on their club section
 
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If you can get a B14R barreled action for $750 or whatever price they come out as, that might be pretty decent. I don't know what the Vudoo licensing story is... I think Defiant and Curtis are also making R700 22 platforms, and they licensed to use V22 magazines. The cost of their actions? I'm not sure.

Going in on that R700 platform will probably be the easiest.

I started with a Tikka T3X, as my hunting rifle, then I found out about PRS and such, so I built a Tikka rimfire. I'm working up to them being twins and re-using fundamentals for both centerfire and rimfire PRS.

If you're starting from scratch you'll have a lot more re-use and options sticking with R700. Tikka has quite a following so at least from a MDT side, all of their chassis for T3 SA works on my T1X which is great. But still more options on the R700 side.

--

This might be a bad suggestion, but if you just wanted to go cheap and play the game - Find a RPRR for $350, go play around in Base class in NRL22. Save up for a V22. Sell the RPRR used for like $299, only going to lose $50-75 "renting" that gun for a few months...

If I can find a match in the spring I will likely do this with my current CZ455... In reading all of this it got me thinking, I already own the 455, and while I do want another bolt gun so I can pass the 455 to my son I dont have to do that right away.

I think I will likely add the Bergara to my list - my local gun shop is taking a look around to see what they can come up with
 
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If you can get a B14R barreled action for $750 or whatever price they come out as, that might be pretty decent. I don't know what the Vudoo licensing story is... I think Defiant and Curtis are also making R700 22 platforms, and they licensed to use V22 magazines. The cost of their actions? I'm not sure.

Going in on that R700 platform will probably be the easiest.

I started with a Tikka T3X, as my hunting rifle, then I found out about PRS and such, so I built a Tikka rimfire. I'm working up to them being twins and re-using fundamentals for both centerfire and rimfire PRS.

If you're starting from scratch you'll have a lot more re-use and options sticking with R700. Tikka has quite a following so at least from a MDT side, all of their chassis for T3 SA works on my T1X which is great. But still more options on the R700 side.

--

This might be a bad suggestion, but if you just wanted to go cheap and play the game - Find a RPRR for $350, go play around in Base class in NRL22. Save up for a V22. Sell the RPRR used for like $299, only going to lose $50-75 "renting" that gun for a few months...

this is some solid advice.
My buddy has a B-14 and other than the trigger he says it’s exceptional. He has a vudoo, Cz 457s, tikkas (he sold his) and RPRr’s and says for a target gun and competition gun try B-14 is second to his vudoo but the B-14 needs a trigger. It’s heavy but smooth and he likes the magazines better than the vudoo mags. As far as accuracy his vudoo is still number one especially at 75 and 100 yards but at 50 yards the B-14 is as good or better than his Kidd super grade, Cz 457 precision trainer in a manners stock or tikka T1x.
If you want a full size trainer but can’t do the vudoo the b-14 seems to be the way to go.

for me I don’t need a full size action and like the lighter weight guns so the CZ457 is what I chose so I can easily swap barrels for hunting and competitions.
If you go the CZ457 be sure to handle the MTR stock. I have one and it’s one of the most comfortable stocks I have to shoot off the bench with (just wish it had an adjustable cheekrest).

the RPRr is a good gun just hold sensitive. My boys shoots 1/2” 5 shots at 50 yards with a WP light weight barrel but you can screw up the groups if you load your weight on the stock wrong (it likes to be shot free recoil).
 
So let’s just say, hypothetically, I did something silly and decided to go with a Vudoo.... Would the Apparition KRG Bravo or a barreled action in a ORYX chassis be a better option?
 
**DRB**, first off, "you probably already know this" but buying a Vudoo is not silly, it's a commitment and investment. A commitment that you are not going to put it in the safe and never shoot it. An investment...well because it's a lot of freaking money. BTW, I don't have one but that's the way I see it. As to your stock question I would buy the Bravo over the Oryx. I don't have experience with the Oryx but I do with the Bravo. I have two and wouldn't rule out buying another. I am not saying the Oryx is bad.

As for the OP's question, I could just reiterate what others have said regarding the T1x and Bravo. The other option I can give first hand, educated advice on is the B-14R. I didn't want to say anything before getting some time in with mine; now that I have time invested in the B-14R I can give an honest opinion and comparison on both.

Accuracy: Let's get that out of the way because some people think that's the end all be all for a rifle. That would be true if you were shooting BR but you are not. Having said that it is my opinion and belief that they both shoot well and both are equal when the right ammo is used. Ammo is always the key to rimfire accuracy. Therefore, accuracy wise, don't fret over it, both will shoot good you just have to find the right ammo. Who has the edge....neither.

Reliability: Having this single Bergara B-14R and having a total of 4 Tikka T1x I can say without a doubt that you will have a much better chance of getting a reliable rifle if you buy the B-14R. The B-14R will be more reliable in feeding, extracting and ejection. With the Tikka there are some who have never had an issue, for me, I have had issues with all 4. But, I have been fortunately enough to have fixed all 4 to where they work 99% of the time now. Fact remains I still had frustration and had to "play" with the ejector wire to make them work. The Tikka is also totally push feed when loading a round into the chamber. If your rifle is not tuned right you risk the chance to damage your bullet tip or driving band next to the case when a round is fed into the chamber. As for the B-14R, after today I have probably shot at least 1200 rounds now without one single issue with reliability. It also has controlled round feeding. Feeding is so smooth on the B-14R that you don't even know you are loading a round until you lower the bolt and feel the resistance of the bullet engraving the rifling. That holds true from the first round to the last. Who has the edge....the B-14R by a far.

Trigger: The B-14R that I have will only adjust down to 2lb 10oz. The good thing is it's creep free and consistent so it feels really good, just heavy. The Tikka can be taken down to 1 lbs maybe less or more but that's where mine are. The stock trigger difference is significant for me. Good news is you maybe have 50+ options for a replacement trigger for the B-14R. Some of those will get you under one lb. Comparing the triggers as bought from the dealer the Tikka has the better trigger....by a lot.

Bolt: We have a few ways to look at this. First bolt throw distance, in this area Tikka wins hands down. Smoothness "not feeding rounds" both are equal in smoothness of the bolt operation. The biggest difference and most important to me is the B-14R has controlled round feeding and you can't buy that for the Tikka. Based on what is important to me I would give the edge to the B-14R although I would love for it to have a lower bolt throw.

Stocks: This is one area where the B-14R dominates the Tikka and rightfully so with its increased price tag. Bergara sells the HMR stock on their website for $399 and bottom metal if you need it is $125. The bottom on the B-14R appears to be pot metal which I believe is a combination of zinc and aluminum, it could be aluminum but it has a twang to it when hit. The Tikka trigger guard is plastic. The Tikka owners will spend around $380+ for the KRG Bravo to be in the same class "stock wise" as the Bergara B-14R.

Barrels: The T1x is a slip fit design held in with some glue and 3 T15 sized set screws. The B-14R barrel is threaded into the receiver. Both are threaded for a muzzle attachment. Not much else to say here except you can get a replacement drop in barrel from IBI and Lothar Walther and possibly others I don't know about. A replacement barrel for the B-14R is a gunsmith job. Accuracy wise, so far I'm not seeing a significant difference to say one method is better than the other as far as my rifles go.

Added bonus, Aftermarket support: To some this may or maynot be important but regardless here are the facts. The Tikka does have quite a bit of support now. You can replace anything on the Tikka but are still limited to only one trigger "that I'm aware of" the BiX&Andy trigger and it's very expensive. Probably 6 or so stock/chassis suppliers, six or so scope rail providers and at least two barrel suppliers. With the B-14R you have, IDK 20-50?? times more options since it being based on the R700SA. Who has the edge....the B-14R.

I most certainly didn't mean for this to be a book. In the end, buy what you want and what you will feel good about after the sale. Try as many different rifles out as you can before making a purchase. Educate yourself as much as possible. Plan ahead, even if the plan doesn't pan out you will still be prepared. WTF am I talking about just buy something. :ROFLMAO:
 
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**DRB**, first off, "you probably already know this" but buying a Vudoo is not silly, it's a commitment and investment. A commitment that you are not going to put it in the safe and never shoot it. An investment...well because it's a lot of freaking money. BTW, I don't have one but that's the way I see it. As to your stock question I would buy the Bravo over the Oryx. I don't have experience with the Oryx but I do with the Bravo. I have two and wouldn't rule out buying another. I am not saying the Oryx is bad.

As for the OP's question, I could just reiterate what others have said regarding the T1x and Bravo. The other option I can give first hand, educated advice on is the B-14R. I didn't want to say anything before getting some time in with mine; now that I have time invested in the B-14R I can give an honest opinion and comparison on both.

Accuracy: Let's get that out of the way because some people think that's the end all be all for a rifle. That would be true if you were shooting BR but you are not. Having said that it is my opinion and belief that they both shoot well and both are equal when the right ammo is used. Ammo is always the key to rimfire accuracy. Therefore, accuracy wise, don't fret over it, both will shoot good you just have to find the right ammo. Who has the edge....neither.

Reliability: Having this single Bergara B-14R and having a total of 4 Tikka T1x I can say without a doubt that you will have a much better chance of getting a reliable rifle if you buy the B-14R. The B-14R will be more reliable in feeding, extracting and ejection. With the Tikka there are some who have never had an issue, for me, I have had issues with all 4. But, I have been fortunately enough to have fixed all 4 to where they work 99% of the time now. Fact remains I still had frustration and had to "play" with the ejector wire to make them work. The Tikka is also totally push feed when loading a round into the chamber. If your rifle is not tuned right you risk the chance to damage your bullet tip or driving band next to the case when a round is fed into the chamber. As for the B-14R, after today I have probably shot at least 1200 rounds now without one single issue with reliability. It also has controlled round feeding. Feeding is so smooth on the B-14R that you don't even know you are loading a round until you lower the bolt and feel the resistance of the bullet engraving the rifling. That holds true from the first round to the last. Who has the edge....the B-14R by a far.

Trigger: The B-14R that I have will only adjust down to 2lb 10oz. The good thing is it's creep free and consistent so it feels really good, just heavy. The Tikka can be taken down to 1 lbs maybe less or more but that's where mine are. The stock trigger difference is significant for me. Good news is you maybe have 50+ options for a replacement trigger for the B-14R. Some of those will get you under one lb. Comparing the triggers as bought from the dealer the Tikka has the better trigger....by a lot.

Bolt: We have a few ways to look at this. First bolt throw distance, in this area Tikka wins hands down. Smoothness "not feeding rounds" both are equal in smoothness of the bolt operation. The biggest difference and most important to me is the B-14R has controlled round feeding and you can't buy that for the Tikka. Based on what is important to me I would give the edge to the B-14R although I would love for it to have a lower bolt throw.

Stocks: This is one area where the B-14R dominates the Tikka and rightfully so with its increased price tag. Bergara sells the HMR stock on their website for $399 and bottom metal if you need it is $125. The bottom on the B-14R appears to be pot metal which I believe is a combination of zinc and aluminum, it could be aluminum but it has a twang to it when hit. The Tikka trigger guard is plastic. The Tikka owners will spend around $380+ for the KRG Bravo to be in the same class "stock wise" as the Bergara B-14R.

Barrels: The T1x is a slip fit design held in with some glue and 3 T15 sized set screws. The B-14R barrel is threaded into the receiver. Both are threaded for a muzzle attachment. Not much else to say here except you can get a replacement drop in barrel from IBI and Lothar Walther and possibly others I don't know about. A replacement barrel for the B-14R is a gunsmith job. Accuracy wise, so far I'm not seeing a significant difference to say one method is better than the other as far as my rifles go.

Added bonus, Aftermarket support: To some this may or maynot be important but regardless here are the facts. The Tikka does have quite a bit of support now. You can replace anything on the Tikka but are still limited to only one trigger "that I'm aware of" the BiX&Andy trigger and it's very expensive. Probably 6 or so stock/chassis suppliers, six or so scope rail providers and at least two barrel suppliers. With the B-14R you have, IDK 20-50?? times more options since it being based on the R700SA. Who has the edge....the B-14R.

I most certainly didn't mean for this to be a book. In the end, buy what you want and what you will feel good about after the sale. Try as many different rifles out as you can before making a purchase. Educate yourself as much as possible. Plan ahead, even if the plan doesn't pan out you will still be prepared. WTF am I talking about just buy something. :ROFLMAO:

Agree with about everything KOD said.

Minor things -

Certain ammo, definitely feed differently. For whatever reason the way the bullet/lube worked on RWS ammo, it fed sooo smoothly on my Tikka. I do agree with control-feeding being better, and possibly damaging the feeding bad or bullet, but given my factory Tikka was shooting 1.1" and my new IBI is now shooting in the .8's with SK+ ammo, I wouldn't say things are really being damaged that was causing any accuracy issues.

Chassis wise, I think every major mfg will make enough stuff for R700 and Tikka. The R700 still has more selection, and there are more R700 center-fire rifle options as well should you choose to switch/re-use R700 center-fire rifles.

Short throw, That's one thing you can't really upgrade. You can upgrade chassis, barrels, triggers, etc. 60 degree vs 90 degree. Given that I know of a few mfg's coming out with 60 degree rifles in the upcoming year, I'd save my few thousand dollars and if I'm going to spend that kind of $$, buy the best.

Trigger, I feel the Tikka has by far the best single stage trigger out there. No reason to buy a Trigger Tech Diamond for 250$, the Tikka's trigger is fantastic. If you want something more, yes there's the Bix&Andy. If you want a 2-stage trigger, you have the KRG Midas trigger, and the Timney trigger. I run the Timney trigger on mine for $190 just to play around with 2-stage. I swap between 1-stage and 2-stage.

But for a flat out $900, I think the B14R is probably the place to spend your $. Though you will most likely have to spend antoher $200 on a trigger, so it's really $1100.

For $1100, you could get a T1X, KRG Bravo, and IBI Barrel, and I think that would outshoot the B14R, and have a short throw.

And if you don't like the B14R stock, then it's going to be $1100 + a cost of a new stock... and if that's the case I'd still think the T1X w/ whatever options float your boat.

The only modification I've had to make on the Tikka was to bend the ejector spring a little bit. It's a < 5min job, and anyone can do it (screw drive, and your finger) Never had a single FTF.

I'm going to modify my T1X magazine now that I have a few more on order. See if I can get it to be like -