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need travel trailer buying advice.

Smcarroll

gun nut
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 12, 2011
846
0
39
Montana/Wyoming
I am looking at travel trailers and I need some help choosing a quality one. I have a 10,000 dollar budget, I want a 26'~ bumper pull, I want a big bedroom, it has to be 2005 or newer and I would like a slide. we will be towing it with our 2014 1500 silverado. What can you guys recommend me?

This would be used as my mobile hunting and shooting base. If anyone has experience with a travel trailer that they put a safe in and a reloading setup in that would be great.
 
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I plan on buying one in Michigan or another state with high unemployment levels. looking at a price difference in the several thousand dollar range. I currently live in a very old 27' prowler, I like it but its just too old.
 
i have a 2008 dutchman i used on the road for a few years and now just camp with the family. it has treated me right. Does not have a slide and not long enough but would be in your price range if you cant find any thing else you want.
 
i have a 2008 dutchman i used on the road for a few years and now just camp with the family. it has treated me right. Does not have a slide and not long enough but would be in your price range if you cant find any thing else you want.

I want to keep it under 7500 lbs gvwr, the slide is something the gf wants more than I do and I would be willing to go up to 15,000 for the right trailer, I really don't want to finance so that's my limit. the biggest thing for me is the bedroom. i want a big bed and a nice open bedroom. I have seen plenty of trailers in my price and size/weight range. I just was hoping to hear from you guys on what ones would be better quality and durability. I would like to buy something I could use year round and that will last 10 years or so.
 
I want to keep it under 7500 lbs gvwr, the slide is something the gf wants more than I do and I would be willing to go up to 15,000 for the right trailer, I really don't want to finance so that's my limit. the biggest thing for me is the bedroom. i want a big bed and a nice open bedroom. I have seen plenty of trailers in my price and size/weight range. I just was hoping to hear from you guys on what ones would be better quality and durability. I would like to buy something I could use year round and that will last 10 years or so.

I forgot to say it is only an 18'. My brother in law lived in Gillete for a year and he had one of those arctic foxes and really liked it but swore he would never live in a camper in the winter again. Major pain in the ass. His wife and 2 kids lived there with one slide and if i remember right it was a 28 and he pulled it with his 1/2 ton ford
 
I forgot to say it is only an 18'. My brother in law lived in Gillete for a year and he had one of those arctic foxes and really liked it but swore he would never live in a camper in the winter again. Major pain in the ass. His wife and 2 kids lived there with one slide and if i remember right it was a 28 and he pulled it with his 1/2 ton ford

been there, done that in montana, wyoming, north dakota and colorado. I would never live in a travel trailer with kids.
 
OK< I looked at this, before posting, and it's long, and probably more than you wanted but perhaps someone who is also thinking about a rig can benefit from something herein.

There are so many variables. It is hard to select what you need without certain information.
for instance it is important that you know the difference between what the trailer weighs bone dry and empty, and what it will weigh loaded up with all the crap she takes and all your hunting gear, and a full load of water, propane, and all the etc.
If you use it every single weekend plus two weeks hunting a couple of times a year, there is a basic load of stuff in it that never changes, and starts off your weight calculation. Blocks and chocks are heavy, so I use plastic leggo-looking things for blocks, and plastic chocks. Far lighter. Propane: two 10 galling tanks are heavier that two 5 gallion tanks, and that is right on your tongue, so that increases your hitch weight. Also if you use one battery vs 2. I use two 6 volt batteries, so that's another bunch of weight (about 65 lbs each, more if you REALLY get big ones).
Now you have all your basic stuff in the kitchen and outdoor cookery: Pots and pans, dishes and utensils, lighters, knives, the barbecue, coleman lanterns, ropes, tarps, extra table or two, then lawn chairs for everyone, a basic tool box then of course the bathroom has to have TP, Paper towels, towels, soap, shampoo, and all that girly stuff she can't do without. Then of course theres, the basic load of weapons, toys to keep the kids entertained, and other equipment.
After you have the trailer loaded, take it to a scales and get it weighed. On the plate where it tells you your weights it will tell you how much cargo you can carry. This cargo number includes water and propane, and all that crap I listed and anything else someone throws in.
It is eye opening to see how little the allowable cargo weight is compared to what you actually throw into a pile to load up. Calls for some serious culling.
Putting some of that on the pickup helps, but that is still all being hauled. Having a capacity of say, 11,500 lbs doesn't mean you can simply load up a full 11,500 pound on your truck/trailer and still be safe. That number is about how much you can put on it and still actually move. Stopping is the biggest issue, not to mention lesser concerns like wear and tear on the trans, engine, clutch, brakes, suspension, tires, etc. Oh, I almost forgot, add another 100 pounds of so for the weight equalizer hitch and anti-sway bar.
The basic rule is that you will have far more weight on the rig than you planned, not enough rig to pull it (no matter what you thought when you bought it) and way worse gas mileage/power hooked up and hauling that you ever thought.
I have owned 5 RV's all bumper pull, some 34 feet long some 18 ft, and just picked up a 26 foot front bedroom, rear kitchen rig that is light, and has a good floor-plan. We NEVER travel with water in the tank, unless it is a short "fill up in last town, pull up to dry camp" sort of thing.
IN the forest we run a hose for the gray water into the woods, and drop into town to dump the black water tank. Hooked up at an RV park, we leave the grey water open, and the black closed until 3/4 full, then drain the black (close the grey first) and flush throughly each time. The black tank is a digester, so keep it closed and allow it to fill so it can work, and it won't get plugged or other problems. We never drop anything down but human waste, NO paper or wipes EVER. On that point, however, all men in camp go outside, and any women who are so inclined. That extends the time the tanks can go. We have hand washing stations outside as well, and an outside shower with a shower tent that runs off of the trailer pump, and hot water heater. In dry camp we run water from a nearby spring in a clean ice chest and pump it into the fresh ager tank about twice a week. WE are far more stringent if we don't have water nearby. We carry 3 or 4 empty 5 gallon cans to fill and haul back to the trailer. Works great. Just have to keep an eye on the black water tank level. You can use a "blue boy" to haul off 25 or 35 gallons of black water if you feel like you want to handle lifting that into the truck. That will allow you to extend the time you can stay in one spot without emptying the black water tank. You can dump the blue boy in the toilet at a nearby Forest Service campground. That saves going al the way to "town".
If you are handy install your own solar panels to charge your batteries, and keep everything turned off. Use minimal lights, and turn them off after use. Newer RV's have LED's so power drain is minimal, but the CO monitor, and Fridge (circuit board) both draw all the time, so a trickle charge is needed. Keep the pump turned off unless needed. I have three panels that keep the batteries pretty hot, and only have to charge with the generator about once a week or run if we have a social event.
Each manufacturer has a "lightweight" line, but I won't haul anything sold with anything less than a 3/4 ton.
Look for a floor plan that you want, but also look for adequate outside storage. and that slide you mentioned, there are 12 inch lids (how far is slides out) 2 foot slides, and 3 foot slides. Also there are 6 ft slides, 8 ft slides, super slides (12 foot) (length). all combos of each. A slide increases the weight!! run the slide in and out in the showroom. See if you can get to the kitchen and bathroom and seating with the slide IN. This is for convenience on the road. You don't want to have to run it in and out every time you stop. Look for upgraded lock sets on the door panels, and entry door.
If you REALLY want bedroom space, consider a Toy Hauler, and convert the garage into the master. I have seen several in RV parks, with two Harleys inside for travel, and a kin sized bed up against the ceiling until the bikes were unloaded, then dropped down, huge TV, kegerator, surround sound, etc, screened porch when the ramp door was dropped to level, with fold down legs. All on a bumper pull.
I know a guy here in town who uses a really old 16 footer. He surrounded it with bales, to insulate the lower part, and uses the furnace all the time. to get through winter. He goes into the house to shower, and cook, so its more of a bachelor bedroom. No wife no kids. No thanks.
Good luck.
 
I started out with a 26' trailer just as you.mention I bought for 10,500. It was a few years old and very clean.

I have been living in RVs then last several years as I travel all across the country.

Since you want to buy used and with a strict price and feature list I don't think you should look at brands. Most all the different ones are all built about the same and all the appliances are the same. Most are built in a small part of Indiana where the workers go from shop to shop and there are not much difference in them. I prefer jaycos myself and I've had good luck with them. Some trailers are specific like airstreams but most are the same. Your options you can go with are like ultralight models, and floor plans. My recommendations are shopping around and looking at the roofs and making sure the walls and floors are solid. And keep the tires and bearings good. I look for storage but that might not be a big deal for you. Roofs can be expensive so check on that. It doesn't take long if there is a hole in it and rain gets in before serious damage can occur. Hope this helps.
 
I forgot to say it is only an 18'. My brother in law lived in Gillete for a year and he had one of those arctic foxes and really liked it but swore he would never live in a camper in the winter again. Major pain in the ass. His wife and 2 kids lived there with one slide and if i remember right it was a 28 and he pulled it with his 1/2 ton ford

The wife and I lived in a 38' Kountry Aire for 7 months in Northeast Nevada a few years back. We pulled up to the campground with about 18" of snow and it was -14 with about 35 mph winds, that was pure hell for the first couple months. The water froze at the hydrant every night even though it was insulated and had heat tape wrapped around it. That was the coldest winter I dealt with in a camper and will be the last one I ever try in a camper.
 
11,500-You sure that ain't the GCVWR?
Good luck crossing the Rocky Mts, and don't forget the down hill on the other side. That's why I like my 1 ton dually, 4X4. Gears and brakes--
Motor on,
LG

My welding truck is a dually. My 2500 Gasser has been places your dually would never go dragging my trailer.
 
OH for God shakes-Here we go the BS express. Your comparing a welding truck to RV towing----
How in the hell of any reason, do you have anydangclue where my RV has been?
Get over yourownself!
LG
Fuck off tardopuss. You come in here and tell me to get a bigger truck without knowing my situation. I have a class A and can borrow a semi. Will that tow enough?
 
You're the one that said you intended to tow it with a 1/2 ton pickup.
You may want to look at JAYCO trailers.
They are lightweight but well equipped.
You're gonna have trouble with your budget, year model and size.
 
I bought my camper several years back. I looked for a long time till I found the one that fit my needs. I was not in a hurry and didn't want to settle just to get one. I scanned the Craig's list and several dealers frequently. I finally came across the one I wanted on a dealers lot. They had taken it in on a trade the day before. I made a ridiculous offer and they said sold if I would take it without them having to clean it. It was a 30ft, 96 Terry with bunk beds and master bed up front. Fold out couch and of course the kitchenette that sleeps a couple kids. Any how I only gave $5200 for it in 2001. I sold it 3 years ago for $3500. I did have to replace the roof but it was not a major deal due to the fact I have a friend in the commercial roofing business. I got free rubber, glue and plywood. took a day to strip off old roof and a day to replace it.
You may also look at some of the 5th wheel campers. they pull a lot better but usually have the master bed up top which usually cramps them a little.
 
You're the one that said you intended to tow it with a 1/2 ton pickup.
You may want to look at JAYCO trailers.
They are lightweight but well equipped.
You're gonna have trouble with your budget, year model and size.

I want one just for towing with the 1/2 ton. We already have a coachman Mirada 341 and I have my travel trailer.
smcarroll-albums-guns-picture41376-img1874.jpg
 
Here my advice, take it or leave it. I had a 2009 GMC 1500 with tow package. I bought a 28' GreyWolf w/ 2 slides. Total wet weight of 7200 lbs. It was considered a lite trailer but it sucked to pull anywhere on a grade with that truck. The topper was when we were coming home in a wind storm. Bottom line was that the truck was not heavy enough to handle the load plus all the sway from the wind. Yes, we did have an weight distributing hitch but it still was all over the road. If you plan on traveling flat areas, your going to be fine a majority of the time going with a trailer in the 7500lb range. If not, research what is going to be the lightest with all the options you want. I would have felt much more comfortable dropping down to the 6000-6500 loaded range with that truck and max of 23' length.

Just my .02.

Good luck with your search.
 
Here my advice, take it or leave it. I had a 2009 GMC 1500 with tow package. I bought a 28' GreyWolf w/ 2 slides. Total wet weight of 7200 lbs. It was considered a lite trailer but it sucked to pull anywhere on a grade with that truck. The topper was when we were coming home in a wind storm. Bottom line was that the truck was not heavy enough to handle the load plus all the sway from the wind. Yes, we did have an weight distributing hitch but it still was all over the road. If you plan on traveling flat areas, your going to be fine a majority of the time going with a trailer in the 7500lb range. If not, research what is going to be the lightest with all the options you want. I would have felt much more comfortable dropping down to the 6000-6500 loaded range with that truck and max of 23' length.

Just my .02.

Good luck with your search.

I do appreciate advice. lumpyshits coming in here telling me to get a 3/4 ton irritated me, its the same as when a person starts a 308 bolt gun thread and some asshole says you should have gotten a 300 wm. Then again he is a trucker, what do you expect. I have seen literally hundreds of 22-24' travel trailers in the price and year ranges I am looking at. RVtrader.com is a great website. I want this to be manageable as possible for my gf, she does not like driving the mirada, its too big for her.
 
I hunt with horses or ATVs, I also attend matches that require taking a lot of equipment. Also when I attend matches I find it easier to park an ATV instead of a truck. I went with the horse trailer with living quarters. You have a complete camper, heater, cooking, AC, indoor plumbing including a shower, yet have tons of room in the back.

Its longer then the bumper pull, but being a goose neck, it handles much easier.

pete%20again.JPG
 
Im not a horse guy, but I have to say..... That horse looks like he is preparing himself mentally to drag the trailer and truck where he wants to go. Beautiful animal.

Ryan
 
Over the years i've had the opportunity to be around a lot of campers as camping is a major hobby of ours. The only camper brand we've seen problems with is Coachmen, two have been turds, both purchased in the last 2 years. My folks drag an XLR Hyperlite toy hauler (big & expensive), aunt & uncle have an XLR bumper pull non-toy hauler that they tow up the mountain every year with a 1500, that may be something to look for. Most of us (myself included) run 3/4-ton diesels so I can comment on exact models as our campers are bigger & heavier than what you're after. I just purchased an Augusta, which is made in Indiana along with the rest of them. The price was dern reasonable compared to the more "brand name" models but the fit/finish seems to be as good or slightly better. They might be worth your while as well.

I see 1/2-ton trucks on the mountain with campers every year, all year long. They can & do make it every year; now, is it for the novice? I don't think so, but running a class-A I would imagine you have an idea of what you're doing. Just keep your hitch weight in check, I see a lot of folks pulling rigs that are withing their towing capacity but well over their allowable hitch weight & it has caused problems.

Good luck on you search, there are still some good buys out there.



t
 
I hunt with horses or ATVs, I also attend matches that require taking a lot of equipment. Also when I attend matches I find it easier to park an ATV instead of a truck. I went with the horse trailer with living quarters. You have a complete camper, heater, cooking, AC, indoor plumbing including a shower, yet have tons of room in the back.

Its longer then the bumper pull, but being a goose neck, it handles much easier.

pete%20again.JPG

Now that is damn pack horses!!! I bet he can tote you and your gear without a complaint. Belgian cross??