I want to build one for coyotes and other varmints/predators. I thought I would start with building one so I know how they work, and how to fix one if needed. So I was wondering what length of barrel, what kind of lower, upper, barrel, and what twist. Please show pictures so I can get ideas. (I like FDE/ coyote tan)
- Thread starter long range newbie
- Start date
thanks I will look
With you being new to the platform I wouldn't advise building your upper. You'll need gauges. Stick with building the lower (where a simple function check will ensure you did it correctly) and find an assembled upper.
Here's a good primer into the AR world.
Here's a good primer into the AR world.
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Take a look at 1/8 twist, Wylde chamber. Shoots about any size bullet. Ranier Arms ultramatch are my most accurate barrels. Length of barrel is a preference to the shooter. In 223 i do not see any sense to go any longer than 18in. due to the limits of cartridge. I am using a Mega billet upper/lower to build a 18in 6.5 Grendel for varmint hunting, like the extra range the caliber produces. Geissele makes an excellent trigger. Trigger and barrel are the two most important parts. Learning to build your own is the most fun. Hope this helps.
AR15 are like Legos for grown men to play with.
Building ARs the PROPER way requires some expensive tools initially that often turn some off to building "from the ground up" so to speak. You can cut corners with some stuff and bubba the job without the proper torque wrench, vise blocks, etc., but results may turn out accordingly. 
+1 on Brownells being a good source for an AR-beginner both in terms of parts, tools and a wealth of information on building. BARFCOM, if you can stand the attitudes and BS, also has some good information and helpful pictorials/vids for DIY build projects, as well as a SIZABLE equipment exchange area where you can source any part/component imaginable (caveat emptor re: pricing which can get absurd to put it mildly...like GunBroker absurd).
In terms of specific barrels, receivers and other components...it really all comes down to personal choice/preferences and what you ultimately want/need to do with the rifle at the end of your project. 18" barrels in my experience are an excellent balance between performance/OAL/weight/max range/etc. I like an 18", medium to SPR weight, Wylde-chambered tube with a rifle-length gas system in a 1:8 twist which will allow you to successfully run a wide range of projectiles from lighter vermin loads to heavier, 75-77gr match bullets if you so choose.
In terms of uppers/lowers...again...beauty is in the eye of the beholder (as are factors like prices, features, etc.). You can get rack-grade components "on the cheap" and then hope that they mate up properly/tightly/etc. or you can go with a matched upper/lower set and you can add features like billet vs. forged, ambi vs. regular (some components can be made ambi with any receiver...others...not so easily), etc. Mega has some nice upper/lower sets (if you can find 'em in stock) that make great platforms to build on (other mfgs offer sets too). Again...have a look around and just get an idea of what you want based on what you see/like/hate/etc.
Good luck!!
+1 on Brownells being a good source for an AR-beginner both in terms of parts, tools and a wealth of information on building. BARFCOM, if you can stand the attitudes and BS, also has some good information and helpful pictorials/vids for DIY build projects, as well as a SIZABLE equipment exchange area where you can source any part/component imaginable (caveat emptor re: pricing which can get absurd to put it mildly...like GunBroker absurd).
In terms of specific barrels, receivers and other components...it really all comes down to personal choice/preferences and what you ultimately want/need to do with the rifle at the end of your project. 18" barrels in my experience are an excellent balance between performance/OAL/weight/max range/etc. I like an 18", medium to SPR weight, Wylde-chambered tube with a rifle-length gas system in a 1:8 twist which will allow you to successfully run a wide range of projectiles from lighter vermin loads to heavier, 75-77gr match bullets if you so choose.
In terms of uppers/lowers...again...beauty is in the eye of the beholder (as are factors like prices, features, etc.). You can get rack-grade components "on the cheap" and then hope that they mate up properly/tightly/etc. or you can go with a matched upper/lower set and you can add features like billet vs. forged, ambi vs. regular (some components can be made ambi with any receiver...others...not so easily), etc. Mega has some nice upper/lower sets (if you can find 'em in stock) that make great platforms to build on (other mfgs offer sets too). Again...have a look around and just get an idea of what you want based on what you see/like/hate/etc.
Good luck!!
The AR is a great platform, very versatile. I would highly reccomend at least get some time behind one before you try to build. Figure out what you like and become familiar with the system. Take a trip to a local gun store where you can get at least a feel for some different manufacturers and parts (stocks, grips, rails, gas length, barrel profiles)
Suggestions-
One of the great features of this system is that just about everything is interchangeable. Parts swap out very quickly as well. I wouldn't skimp on the trigger, you can always swap it to a new build when you do. You will acquire standard triggers down the road, either as part of a trade or included in some other purchase.
Geislee (Fixed or Hi Speed Trigger $210-279)
If you're coming from a bolt gun you will likely be dissapointed from what's offered in most kits, they are heavy in comparison. They are adjustable for 1st and 2nd stage weight, sear engagement and travel. If your building to tinker, this is the cream of the crop. You can purchase with 3 replaceable springs that will take it to any poundage you could ever want (including the weight of a standard trigger). If you don't have the cash consider one of the fixed models.
BCM Gunfighter charging handle $40- gives larger purchase area when you have glass on top and facilitates one sided manipulation. There are 3 different size latches to choose from. I prefer it over the latch replacements.
Free float handguards- start with this, either smooth or with a rail. No reason to purchase or replace this later if you're starting from scratch
I would look into ~18" barrel, 1:8 (check Wylde as an option) twist for heavier rounds but still versatile and either mid or rifle length gas system.
Have fun and good luck-
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Suggestions-
One of the great features of this system is that just about everything is interchangeable. Parts swap out very quickly as well. I wouldn't skimp on the trigger, you can always swap it to a new build when you do. You will acquire standard triggers down the road, either as part of a trade or included in some other purchase.
Geislee (Fixed or Hi Speed Trigger $210-279)
If you're coming from a bolt gun you will likely be dissapointed from what's offered in most kits, they are heavy in comparison. They are adjustable for 1st and 2nd stage weight, sear engagement and travel. If your building to tinker, this is the cream of the crop. You can purchase with 3 replaceable springs that will take it to any poundage you could ever want (including the weight of a standard trigger). If you don't have the cash consider one of the fixed models.
BCM Gunfighter charging handle $40- gives larger purchase area when you have glass on top and facilitates one sided manipulation. There are 3 different size latches to choose from. I prefer it over the latch replacements.
Free float handguards- start with this, either smooth or with a rail. No reason to purchase or replace this later if you're starting from scratch
I would look into ~18" barrel, 1:8 (check Wylde as an option) twist for heavier rounds but still versatile and either mid or rifle length gas system.
Have fun and good luck-
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are side charging uppers any good?
Before I bought the first tool, or part, I'd purchase "The Competitive AR15 Builders Guide, by Glen D. Zediker, a wealth of knowledge and very good advice. The book is a step by step, well illustrated guide, split into 5 sections: standard rifle, carbine/tactical, NRA Match Rifle, NRA Service Rifle, varmint rifle. It will keep you out of trouble, save you from buying stuff you don't need, and steer you to the stuff that works.
Depends on the shooter and personal preference. The JP Enterprises LRP-07 is one of the best semi-autos out there and a side charger.
You got some really good advice from above. Check Arfcom ( handguards, upper, lowers, triggers, barrels and stocks) for the diff configurations. If you make a mistake that part can always be sold or traded. Just always look at brand name parts as an investment.
my advice is to not start. my wallet is thin and the wife just loves it when the ups guy shows up...
my wallet is thin and the wife just loves it when the ups guy shows up...
this is what I would do...... best bang for your buck IMO............................ buy a rock river arms bull barrel varmint AR unless you're dead set on building your own and learning from the experience.
yeah I've looked at them but the bull barrel doesn't seem necessary, I feel I need like a hbar and I want a long handguard like a vtac battle rail
I tell ya..... ive been eyeballing this bad boy also.... 18" stainless steel barrel, kick ass handguard.... there is nothing on this thing i'd change... I would think they'd hit the market soon for about $1350.00 ish
Rock River Arms: NEW! LAR-15 R3 Competition Rifle
Rock River Arms: NEW! LAR-15 R3 Competition Rifle
Rock River Arms is great. I'll second that recommendation. Their predator pursuit and ATH are big sellers and wicked accurate. I'd go out on a limb to say they produce some of the most accurate and well built in their price range. Most of their carbines come with a moa or better garuntee and their ss 18" are usually garunteed at least 3/4"... whixh many consider to be modest. I think its pretty general consensus they are terrific rifles. I'm very happy with mine and everyone I know that ones one holds them in high regard. Although not a Geisslee, their triggers are better than many stock offerrings. People still purchase them separately as an upgrade. They can be worked on to be lightened up a bit. Chrome bolt and carrier from them is nice as well.
Note: they have quite the reputation for running high gassed.
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When I built a rifle for this general purpose I went with a Krieger 1/8 barrel with rifle length gas system. Trigger is the CMC drop in unit. Stag lower and upper, Ergo grip MI rifle length handguard, Magpull PRS. LaRue scope and bipod mounts, YHM QD flash hider and 5.56 suppressor.
Steady diet of Black Hills 75 grain match. Has been very effective on varmints out to 500 meters or so.
Sorry it's not in your preferred color scheme
Steady diet of Black Hills 75 grain match. Has been very effective on varmints out to 500 meters or so.
Sorry it's not in your preferred color scheme
seem like a great deal! If I build an ar I would buy a custom made barrel (I know a barrel smith) He would make it however I want, but the thing is if I build an ar its going to add up probably to 1800+, so it would be better to get a rra since if it was 1800 I'd rather get a NF scope for a bolt gun of mine rather than an ar. I would also get the chromed option on both the trigger and bolt.
This is what id do with the RRA rifle i linked above.
If its a true hunting rifle with a tad bit of target practice then id get a vortex viper 2.5-10 scope with some RTS offset BUIS
If its going to be geared more around target practice / going for small ass groups type shit with maybe a hint of hunting / shooting prairie dogs and yotes in the prone position over 200yards plus then id get a vortex 4-16 scope with some RTS offset BUIS (back up iron sights) but the rifle might weigh just a tad bit more due to the bigger scope.
Really put some thought into what is more important... Hunting aspect or target shooting aspect.
Regardless of the two above options id make sure it had a 1pc scope mount with maybe a 10 to 20moa built in cant just on the safe side,,,,, just in case i wanted to transfer the scope set up to a big caliber rig for really long distance shooting. Never hurts to get some type of canted mount just as long as the scope has the adjustment for it.
If its a true hunting rifle with a tad bit of target practice then id get a vortex viper 2.5-10 scope with some RTS offset BUIS
If its going to be geared more around target practice / going for small ass groups type shit with maybe a hint of hunting / shooting prairie dogs and yotes in the prone position over 200yards plus then id get a vortex 4-16 scope with some RTS offset BUIS (back up iron sights) but the rifle might weigh just a tad bit more due to the bigger scope.
Really put some thought into what is more important... Hunting aspect or target shooting aspect.
Regardless of the two above options id make sure it had a 1pc scope mount with maybe a 10 to 20moa built in cant just on the safe side,,,,, just in case i wanted to transfer the scope set up to a big caliber rig for really long distance shooting. Never hurts to get some type of canted mount just as long as the scope has the adjustment for it.
yeah I was going to say the gun just makes me want to put some 45 deg offset sights for close range just in case
Don't waste your money on RRA. Owned a few of their rifles, and their QC sucks. The RRA NM A2 I had was not impressive, and you can research the the views on more AR oriented sites and see why No one buys them.
Build the lower yourself. With some simple tools, it takes less than 30 minutes and will help you understand how the system works. Buy an upper. Something from Noveke, Larue, JP, LMT, DD, BCM would be preferred. If you want to shoot tiny holes.... You cannot beat WOA for the money. WOA, Noveske, JP or having a well known company like G&R or ADCO build you an upper using a good barrel. White Oak Armament is damn near impossible to beat for the money if you want to hunt/shoot steel and you can have a complete rifle minus optics built for under a grand.
Build the lower yourself. With some simple tools, it takes less than 30 minutes and will help you understand how the system works. Buy an upper. Something from Noveke, Larue, JP, LMT, DD, BCM would be preferred. If you want to shoot tiny holes.... You cannot beat WOA for the money. WOA, Noveske, JP or having a well known company like G&R or ADCO build you an upper using a good barrel. White Oak Armament is damn near impossible to beat for the money if you want to hunt/shoot steel and you can have a complete rifle minus optics built for under a grand.
Didn't know about problems at RR; one of my most accurate varmint rigs is built around their 20” nat'l match barrels
as used In their Predator Pursuit models. Also have White Oak, Shilen, and Krieger that are awesome barrels.
Currently using a Bushnell 2.5 X 16 with an offset T1 for coyotes. More often than not a
bobcat, or fox shows up at slingshot distance when I am all set up for a 300yd shot.
as used In their Predator Pursuit models. Also have White Oak, Shilen, and Krieger that are awesome barrels.
Currently using a Bushnell 2.5 X 16 with an offset T1 for coyotes. More often than not a
bobcat, or fox shows up at slingshot distance when I am all set up for a 300yd shot.
"AR" stands for break out another thousand!
