Gunsmithing  New bubba gunsmithing project?

Trigger Monkey

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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Now that I finished up the HMR project, I was wondering what my new project should be. Then I remembered I had an old HS Precision stock stashed in the attic that had seen better days. I've basically treated this thing with wanton disregard but it could be fun.

    20210121_075133.jpg
    20210121_075202.jpg
    20210121_075150.jpg

    So what do you guys think? A little JB Weld, a new recoil pad, a little paint, and she's back in action.
     
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    nightman89

    Sergeant of the Hide
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    Jun 6, 2020
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    Going to follow for ideas. I have a takeoff Remington 700 stock sitting in my garage. Not worth my time to sell, don't want to just throw it away.
     

    Downtown

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  • Mar 1, 2013
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    Going to follow for ideas. I have a takeoff Remington 700 stock sitting in my garage. Not worth my time to sell, don't want to just throw it away.
    I've done this more than once. Built a rifle around one or two parts leftover from another project. Wife just rolls her eyes. 😁
     

    PDXGS

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    May 31, 2009
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    I did one using a Dremel...to prove it could be done....looked like a box of smashed crabs, but it worked!
    I used Atlas Gunworx bottoms metal.
    Filled in the gaps with epoxy and glass baloons and then sanded the shit out of it.
     

    Trigger Monkey

    Ronin
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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Ok, the this project is a go and hopefully I'll be making some progress this weekend. Right now I'm working stripping about 12 layers of paint off of it so that's taking some time haha. I did manage to get the stock opened up for the Magpul DBM and it's functioning so, so far so good. I was going to go the standard BDL route but the Magpul DBM was pretty appealing because 1) All my other bolt guns run AICS mags. 2) I wouldn't need to modify the pillar bed height 3) It's cheaper buying a used BDL set up.

    The plans for this weekend are to get it stripped, fill in some holes, and maybe install some flush cups. Ideally, I'd also like to get the recoil pad situation squared away but we'll see. I have a Victor Company cheek rest that showed up today so that'll be going on as well. Minus my labor I'll have about $175 in bringing this stock back from the dead.
     
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    Trigger Monkey

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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    The project is coming along, after all the paint got stripped off I noticed there were some areas where the shell had chipped away and the foam core was exposed. The only thing I could think to do was mill out a small pocket out to the where the shell wasn't damaged and fill it with epoxy. That seems to be all done now and between those spots and filling in the holes where the sling studs were, it's been a little more work than I'd planned. Yesterday I filled in those two holes in the buttstock with JB Weld WaterWeld, trimmed and sanded about 1/4" off the back of the butt to clean up that mess, and drilled the holes for the flush cups. Turns out I'm going to have to rethink my plans for the recoil pad, after looking at the one I've got it's just not going to work like I'd hoped and I'm trying to avoid a grind to fit pad.

    Plans for this weekend are to JB Weld the flush cups, install the pic rail in the forend, and bed the Magpul DBM to clean up the inletting.
     

    Navy Gunner

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    Jan 15, 2021
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    Aw man! You are going to get me in trouble! I’ve a HS Precision stock in my safe that I took off my Remington Sendero around ‘95 or so. I keep thinking I need to do something with it now I’m going to see what you come up with. A build list upon completion would be greatly appreciated by me... My wife, not so much 😁.
    Look forward to the updates.
     
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    Trigger Monkey

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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    I'll put together a little parts and cost list at the end, I think I'm going to be about $200 in it by the time I'm done. However, some things I had already, like the flush cups, the 9/16" tap for the flush cups, etc. but I had to buy the Magpul DBM, Victor Company cheek riser, JB Weld, and misc. fasteners. There's also going to be some things that someone else may not want or need to buy like a recoil pad.

    I don't have a barreled action for this thing really, not yet, it's just a fun/learning project. Learning experiences like Citristrip hates the foam filler of the stock so don't let it linger while stripping paint off it and sanding down epoxy blows.
     
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    ZG47A

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    Feb 20, 2017
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    The project is coming along, after all the paint got stripped off I noticed there were some areas where the shell had chipped away and the foam core was exposed. The only thing I could think to do was mill out a small pocket out to the where the shell wasn't damaged and fill it with epoxy. That seems to be all done now and between those spots and filling in the holes where the sling studs were, it's been a little more work than I'd planned. Yesterday I filled in those two holes in the buttstock with JB Weld WaterWeld, trimmed and sanded about 1/4" off the back of the butt to clean up that mess, and drilled the holes for the flush cups. Turns out I'm going to have to rethink my plans for the recoil pad, after looking at the one I've got it's just not going to work like I'd hoped and I'm trying to avoid a grind to fit pad.

    Plans for this weekend are to JB Weld the flush cups, install the pic rail in the forend, and bed the Magpul DBM to clean up the inletting.
    Apply masking tape in several overlapping layers and then grind the pad. Man up! 🙂 Reads like a clear plan and good progress, to date.
     

    Trigger Monkey

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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    I have been a little negligent in documenting the whole process but here is where things are at the moment.

    I forgot to get a shot of the grip area but here's the forend with the sling swivel holes filled in and some other areas where the foam was exposed.

    JB-3.jpg

    One of the front flush cup pockets done and tapped. It's 9/16-18 tap btw for those Grove-Tec flush cups, they'll be epoxied in towards the end after I'm done sanding and what not. I drilled it with a 1/2" drill bit with a piece of tape so I only went in as far as I needed to.

    JB-2.jpg

    Buttstock area where I filled in the two holes shown earlier with JB Weld WaterWeld and sanded it down. I used a small round file to chamber both the inside and outside of the hole so that when I smashed the putty in there it'd have a better bite and resist any moment one way or the other. In theory anyway.

    JB-4.jpg

    Cut off the nastiness in the back and sanded it down. I may end up taking a little more off the back depending on how the LOP works out when I get the new recoil pad.

    JB-5.jpg

    Modified Magpul DBM so that it works with the stock.

    JB-6.jpg

    This is why the rear magazine guide had to be contoured the way it is, it has to clear the interior receiver bridge.

    JB-1.jpg

    I'm planning to clean up the inlet for the DBM today so I'll be sure to get pics of that later on.
     

    BullGear

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  • Nov 29, 2017
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    Looks good. Have you decided what you're going to do with the stock, rattle can, dip or something else?
     

    Trigger Monkey

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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    It's going to get rattle canned, Rustoleum textured paint will go down first and hopefully that will help mask some sins and on top of that will go camo olive drab and then matte clear. I toyed with the idea of doing some kind of camo pattern but decided to keep it simple.
     

    lariat

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    Feb 11, 2018
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    I really like projects like this. Taking a tool that is well used and giving it a new life is something I never seem to grow tired of.
     

    Trigger Monkey

    Ronin
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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Ok, bedding the bottom metal now to clean up the gaps so we'll see how it turns out tomorrow. I filled in the lettering with neutral shoe polish, in fact shoe polished it all over and then gave it a coat of Hornady One Shot for good measure. It'll either work or I'll have created a mini-chassis set up. Since I made up a good batch of JB Weld I also installed the rear flush cups, I'm not doing the fronts yet because I have other stuff I need to do up there still.

    JB-7.jpg
     

    clcustom1911

    "Cartman 1-2, come in" aka Sugar Buns
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  • Oct 23, 2017
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    I gots me some Bubba the Gunsmith Good Idea Fairy thoughts for when I get back stateside... may do a thread. We shall see.
     

    Trigger Monkey

    Ronin
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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Well by golly it's starting to look like something now.

    I made some good headway in the later part of last week and over the weekend. So right now the following is done.

    10-32 Threaded front rail inserts
    10-32 Threaded cheek riser inserts
    10-32 Threaded pad inserts
    Flush cups installed
    Recoil pad shaped
    Cheek riser installed.

    JB-10.jpg

    Since I just made the front rail out of an MLOK rail, I'm going to bed it to the radius of the stock and glue on the recoil pad at the same time. That's basically only to leave bedding the action area and getting this thing ready for paint.
     

    sam4886

    Stunt Cock
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    May 15, 2019
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    Any mor info on the cheek riser? I've been keeping an eye on this but might have missed it.

    I've got a hollow fiber stock I've gotta get a riser stuck on, just curious how you did it.

    I've got a Kydex press I make my holsters so I may end up using that.
     

    Trigger Monkey

    Ronin
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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    The cheek riser is a Victor Company cheek riser. There's enough meat in that part of the stock to embed two 10-32 threaded inserts with JB Weld to secure them along the top of the comb.

    These ones, I got them from the hardware store.
    1614562320780.png
    Once I found center line I marked the holes and started with an 1/8" drill before stepping up in size until I got to one that was just smaller than the OD of the threads, I think it was 5/16", I'll have to check. This minimized deformation as I threaded them but still gave them some bite into the substrate. I chamfered the hole to give the JB weld somewhere to pool and provide some reinforcement to the outer shell, in theory anyway. I used 10-32 zinc coated flat head machine screws to secure it to the stock. I would've preferred black oxide but the oxide screws have a different head diameter that doesn't jive well with the Victor Company riser.
     

    SanPatHogger

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    Mar 1, 2020
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    When I cut my 700 ADL stock to take the magpul bottom metal I did a TON of cut and fit, then cut and fit more. When it was all done with it fit like a glove. Then when I bedded it..... oops... It never came back out. But it fits and works great.
    I didn't cut the bottom metal, just the wood.
     

    sam4886

    Stunt Cock
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    May 15, 2019
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    Interesting, I hadn't seen the victors before.

    My b&c sporter has a cheek pad kinda thing molded into the left side, I wonder if the Victor company riser would still work.
     

    Trigger Monkey

    Ronin
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  • Apr 29, 2005
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    Like this?

    1614566899620.png

    Without modification I don't think it'd work, the Victor Company has some flex but I'm not sure if would flex enough to set correctly over the Monte Carlo-style hump.

    You could probably trim back the leg on the left side to make it work though, it's only plastic so not too hard to cut.

    1614567192796.png
     

    sam4886

    Stunt Cock
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    May 15, 2019
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    That's the one. Thanks for doing the leg work! That was kind of my worry, I'll keep working on something. For the time being I'll probably go with one of the strap on stock pack things so I can avoid drilling any extra holes.
     

    Mike Casselton

    Trunk Monkey
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  • Nov 25, 2007
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    When I cut my 700 ADL stock to take the magpul bottom metal I did a TON of cut and fit, then cut and fit more. When it was all done with it fit like a glove. Then when I bedded it..... oops... It never came back out. But it fits and works great.
    I didn't cut the bottom metal, just the wood.

    Had the same thing happen to the first Magpul set I installed, even though I filled the voids with clay and used release agent.
    Oh, well.