New Build/builder and GO gauge questions

[Biggern'yurs]

Hey a long time wlurker but this is my first time posting. I'm starting my first foray into custom rifle building, starting simple with an action pre-fit and stock setup. I'm starting with a Kelbly's Atlas light and a carbonsix pre-fit (7prc). Ordered Manson go and no go gauges off of Reamer rentals.

I finally received the barrel and torqued to what I believe to be 100 lb spec per Kelblys. The go gauge was stiff and the bolt wouldn't seat all the way. No no-go gauge wasnt anywhere close.

I shot an email to carbonsix and they said the barrel was good if the go gauge would go even if it was stiff and the barrel should be torqued to 60 or 70 lb. I backed off the torque to 60 lb and bolt closes but there is a bit of resistance.

Does any of this seem okay? I've always read that the go gauge should go easily. I don't want to get into anything dangerous. Anything you professionals could do to help me out would be much appreciated.

 

[Supersubes]

If the ammo you intend to shoot fits, yes you’ll be fine.

 

[MurphyTX]

I’ve only built one rifle and do not have any sort of actually smithing experience, but I did have a similar experience with the rifle I built.

Origin action with a proof 7prc Prefit. The bolt would close but with a little force. I was expecting bolt to essentially drop without touching it and was a little concerned. I talked with a gunsmith, and he said it if closes then you’re safe. He offered to take a 1-2 thousand off it, but I figured if it’s safe, it’s safe so I never touched it.

The rifle shoots great and cycles Hornadys factory ammo no problem. Glad I never took anything off the barrel looking back.

 

[Obi-WanKannoli]

Slap it in a stock and give it a go, just use a string on the first shot to pull the trigger from behind a mattress.

 

[Haney]

Have you tried sized brass or loaded ammo for fit ?

 

[Edds]

What is the position of your rifle? My go gauges fit so sloppy in the chamber that, unless I wrap them, I have to hold the rifle in a vertical position to get the feel I want.

 

[Biggern'yurs]

I’ve only built one rifle and do not have any sort of actually smithing experience, but I did have a similar experience with the rifle I built.

Origin action with a proof 7prc Prefit. The bolt would close but with a little force. I was expecting bolt to essentially drop without touching it and was a little concerned. I talked with a gunsmith, and he said it if closes then you’re safe. He offered to take a 1-2 thousand off it, but I figured if it’s safe, it’s safe so I never touched it.

The rifle shoots great and cycles Hornadys factory ammo no problem. Glad I never took anything off the barrel looking back.

All right cool. That helps. What did you torque your barrel to?

What is the position of your rifle? My go gauges fit so sloppy in the chamber that, unless I wrap them, I have to hold the rifle in a vertical position to get the feel I want.

Well I haven't even put it in the stock yet so generally I just hold it flat...

 

[MurphyTX]

All right cool. That helps. What did you torque your barrel to?

Well I haven't even put it in the stock yet so generally I just hold it flat...

I went with the upper end of the torque recommendation from proof. Unfortunately I can’t recall the exact number, but if I had to guess I would want to say it was 90

 

[45-90]

The go gauge should go easily, but a slight resistance is fine. Depending on the firearms application. I sometimes chamber for a snug chamber between the brass and go gauge.
I use a torque wrench to tighten the barreled action 95 to 100 ft-lbs. On Rem shouldered barrels. Some prefits with a barrel nut like Savage are less, follow instructions from the barrel maker.
To relieve the slight resistance, you could lapp the bolt lugs, a little goes along way here. Or, polish the sholder of the chamber briefly in a lathe, or by hand run the finish reamer in .001", a fixture with a stop and .001" feeler gauge, use plenty of heavy dark cutting oil. But you probably do not have a finish reamer if you ordered a prefit.
But if it chambers new brass cases freely its good to go...sizing dies can be adjusted/ modified a little to make it all work.
I chamber rifles with usually only a "go gauge" or sometimes no factory gauges at all, but make a gauge with the finish reamer, and a piece of cartridge brass, as a go gauge with a granite surface plate and a drop indicator, to get the exact chamber depth. Then size the cartridges to that gauge, made by the finish chamber reamer. Works great on wildcat, and obsolete cartridge chambering.

 

[45-90]

Example: one picture is worth a thousand words..
Just finished this chamber gauge : This 510 Whisper brass will be "the chamber gauge," as the finish reamer has been used to make the cartridge gauge will also ream the chamber and be used to size the brass to fit the chamber exactly.