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New build..help me spend some tax money?

Creed_28

Private
Minuteman
Dec 19, 2017
42
0
Alright fellas so I’’ve been lurking and doing some research on here as this would be my first precision rifle build. I typically like to build/assemble them and get to know them really well so I prefer this method rather than buying straight out as my first so please don’t tell me to buy one made already or use the money to buy a cheap gun and spend the money on ammo haha.

So please help me decide on the items I have missing that I’m still undecided on. This build will be based off an MPA chassis and will be shooting a 6.5 Creedmoor. I’ve been shooting a friends Ruger precision rifle and would like to build/assemble a 1,000+ yard bolt action rifle.

*MPA BA COMPETITION CHASSIS, BURNT BRONZE

*DEFIANCE DEVIANT LONG ACTION (Haven’t decided on which one tactical or ultralight?)

*JEWELL TRIGGER

*BARTLEIN BARREL or one of the carbon fiber options (undecided on the length and twist)

*VORTEX RAZOR HD GEN II 4.5-27x56 (undecided on reticle)

Thats all I’ve got for now, still doing research on the things that I’m undecided on and open to suggestions.

I just finished my AR set up so I need a new project. Thank you to those who respond in advance!
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I went through the first rifle build process about a year ago. I had my parts list made up in my head and it changed a couple times.

My recommendation would be to pick a gunsmith and talk to them about what you're thinking and get their thoughts on the build. If possible, it's also worth it to try and handle any actions, stocks, get time behind scopes, etc. before deciding for sure what you want.

One question I have for you is, why do you want a Long action? A 6.5 Creedmoor will feed and fit quite reliably in a short action. Again, here I recommend handling some different actions to see which one you really prefer. I was dead set on a Deviant as well but ended up going with a Surgeon 591 after handling them and on a recommendation and experience from the gunsmith. Again it is personal preference and you might like the deviant better than I did.

There's lots of good barrel makers out there. In terms of Carbon, there's only a handful. I'm going Hardy Carbon in 24" 6.5 Creedmoor.
 
If you want to build it yourself get a short action Bighorn TL3 and a Savage prefit from Proof Research and screw into an MPA. You can do all the work without having a smith build it.
 
I bet there’s a lot of options and I’m not dead set on what I’ve picked which is why I’ve posted this thread to pick peoples brain a little bit.

The reason for the long action is just because if later I decide to turn the chassis into a larger caliber I can do so..at least that was my thought process behind it haha, if you or anyone else thinks this is a bad idea please tell me how retarded I am! I wish I had the option of handling a lot of the top tier actions but so far it’s just been the Deviant. Which brings up a question for you..what about it did you not like?

Gotcha, what twist and bullet grain will you be using? I will be handloading all my ammo.
 
If you want to build it yourself get a short action Bighorn TL3 and a Savage prefit from Proof Research and screw into an MPA. You can do all the work without having a smith build it.

I have a friend that’s a gun smith so that wouldn’t be too big of a deal but that is definitely an option I could look into if I decide to go that route. Has anyone had it done by Accuracy international or Surgeon rifles for example? If so what was the turn around time and cost? Thanks fellas I appreciate the advice!
 
You stated you wanted to build it, so Bighorn is your best option and one of the best actions available right now. AI does not build custom rifles... they only do factory rifles. Surgeon is only going to do a build off their action.

get an 8 twist for the creed, it's the standard.
 
I bet there’s a lot of options and I’m not dead set on what I’ve picked which is why I’ve posted this thread to pick peoples brain a little bit.

The reason for the long action is just because if later I decide to turn the chassis into a larger caliber I can do so..at least that was my thought process behind it haha, if you or anyone else thinks this is a bad idea please tell me how retarded I am! I wish I had the option of handling a lot of the top tier actions but so far it’s just been the Deviant. Which brings up a question for you..what about it did you not like?

Gotcha, what twist and bullet grain will you be using? I will be handloading all my ammo.

That reasoning makes sense on the long action, others might know or have more experience there than I do.

I went to my gunsmith and he had BAT, Stiller, Defiance, and a Surgeon sitting there to play with. Didn't care for the BAT or stiller much at all. The Deviant was incredible, polished, cycled like glass, and super tight tolerances. It would make a beautiful rifle but I wanted to cerakote it and was advised by my smith (and a couple others) that they like to bind when cerakoted and run in dirty conditions. He then handed me his own comp rifle with a Surgeon action (yes, he likes them) and it was still very smooth, cerakoted and will run in any condition. Since I plan to run my gun as a hunting/field rifle with the option of shooting a competition, I went with a Surgeon. And I can get the cool pineapple bolt knob haha. Honestly it's all personal preference, any of them will make a wicked rifle.

I plan on running 130 AR Hybrids or 140gr pills in an 8 twist barrel.

I'm assuming when you say "build yourself" you will be having your gunsmith friend put together a rifle "build" rather than buying a rifle off the shelf or the classifieds.
 
You stated you wanted to build it, so Bighorn is your best option and one of the best actions available right now. AI does not build custom rifles... they only do factory rifles. Surgeon is only going to do a build off their action.

8 twist for the creed, it's the standard.

Yep, your totally right! I guess I should’ve stated that if I had to I could let a smith finish it off for me, but I definitely wanted to be the one to select the parts and not buy a complete rifle. Why would you say that Bighorn has the best actions available? Also if I go short action does that mean I also need to buy a short action chassis so that the magazine fits in there perfect orr? Just want to get your .2 cents. Hmm didn’t know that, guess I should’ve got in touch with them before considering them. Thanks for that.

Will do!
 
I've owned just about all the big name actions, the TL3 is very versatile! Swappable bolt heads, controlled round fed. Mechanical ejector, 20 tpi tenon, factory DLC option, consistant head space from action to action, etc. Thats a few good reasons, do some searching and read up on them.

what do you plan to do with the rifle? Why do you want to possibly convert to long action rather than build another down the road?

lots of great smiths on this board that could build it for you.
GAP
LRI
SAC
PVA
RWS
AREA419
MHS
AO
APA
PCR
and many, many more
 
That reasoning makes sense on the long action, others might know or have more experience there than I do.

I went to my gunsmith and he had BAT, Stiller, Defiance, and a Surgeon sitting there to play with. Didn't care for the BAT or stiller much at all. The Deviant was incredible, polished, cycled like glass, and super tight tolerances. It would make a beautiful rifle but I wanted to cerakote it and was advised by my smith (and a couple others) that they like to bind when cerakoted and run in dirty conditions. He then handed me his own comp rifle with a Surgeon action (yes, he likes them) and it was still very smooth, cerakoted and will run in any condition. Since I plan to run my gun as a hunting/field rifle with the option of shooting a competition, I went with a Surgeon. And I can get the cool pineapple bolt knob haha. Honestly it's all personal preference, any of them will make a wicked rifle.

I plan on running 130 AR Hybrids or 140gr pills in an 8 twist barrel.

I'm assuming when you say "build yourself" you will be having your gunsmith friend put together a rifle "build" rather than buying a rifle off the shelf or the classifieds.

Ah ok, someone will possibly chime in.

Ok that makes sense and don’t blame you for going that route because of what you’ve mentioned. Haha hey, I’m a sucker for details so I don’t blame you for being partial on the knob!

Gotchaaa!

Well that depends Wyfox has me second guessing my decision on parts to use. I just watched several videos on the TL3 and I like the versatility of being able to change the caliber so quickly and easily and the mechanical ejector (hate flinging brass if I don’t have to, to keep my ammo box cleaner). So if I go that route the savage profit would cut down on a lot of time. Since savage uses a locking nut instead of being cut short and using a reemer to finish the chamber process all I’d have to do is check headspace and get a barre vise. I think..like I said I’m new to this haha.
 
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I've owned just about all the big name actions, the TL3 is very versatile! Swappable bolt heads, controlled round fed. Mechanical ejector, 20 tpi tenon, factory DLC option, consistant head space from action to action, etc. Thats a few good reasons, do some searching and read up on them.

what do you plan to do with the rifle? Why do you want to possibly convert to long action rather than build another down the road?

lots of great smiths on this board that could build it for you.
GAP
LRI
SAC
PVA
RWS
AREA419
MHS
AO
APA
PCR
and many, many more

You’ve got a really good point there now that I’ve done a little more research on them I may have to switch it up with them instead of Defiance.

I plan on ringing steel further than I ever have before and possibly try the competition scene. Because I was looking at MPA’s switchlug rifle where you can swap the barrel and bolt head and swap over to a different caliber easily. So I was thinking I could possibly go with a long action and when I want to shoot 338 Lapua I could? I don’t know just an idea I was kicking around.

Awesome thank you for that list. If you or anyone else knows where I could buy these parts and support vendors when I’m ready to pull the trigger on them let me know also.
 
Check out Core Shooting, should be a one stop shop for you. PVA, Proof, and Bugholes have really nice savage prefits.

i sold all my magnums including 338 lapua and just shoot short actions now, i take my creed out to a mile often. Unless you plan on shooting past 1500yds you really dont need a magnum. The 338 lapua takes a larger action and you wouldnt be able to switch from 6.5 to 338. Only 2 options i know of that are capable of that AI AXMC and DTA. Both are very spendy $$$.
Stick with short actions on this one, you'll be much happier.
 
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Check out Core Shooting, should be a one stop shop for you. PVA, Proof, and Bugholes have really nice savage prefits.

i sold all my magnums including 338 lapua and just shoot short actions now, i take my creed out to a mile often. Unless you plan on shooting past 1500yds you really dont need a magnum. The 338 lapua takes a larger action and you wouldnt be able to switch from 6.5 to 338. Only 2 options i know of that are capaple of that AI AXMC and DTA. Both are very spendy $$$.
Stick with short actions on this one, you'll be much happier.

Sweet I’ll check them out in a bit and see what they have to offer. Thank you.

I see, I’m learning lots here thanks for putting up with me haha. Question that might be a dumb one..when I was looking on MPA’s website earlier on the order form it didn’t have the big horn listed so which one would I select now that you’ve convinced me on going with a short action? Savage short action?
 
If you want to build it yourself get a short action Bighorn TL3 and a Savage prefit from Proof Research and screw into an MPA. You can do all the work without having a smith build it.

This ! , after that trigger & optics are whatever you like . I prefer a two stage trigger and have a GEN II Razor ( best bang for the Bucks IMHO ) but would suggest you fondle some options to your taste . I hope you are not shooting the help in the orange groves with your AR !
 
Its a Rem 700 footprint, call and ask Core or MPA which would be the best fit.
 
This ! , after that trigger & optics are whatever you like . I prefer a two stage trigger and have a GEN II Razor ( best bang for the Bucks IMHO ) but would suggest you fondle some options to your taste . I hope you are not shooting the help in the orange groves with your AR !

GEN II Razor FTW for sure! Haha only the coyotes that run through them trying to get our pets :)
 
Its a Rem 700 footprint, call and ask Core or MPA which would be the best fit.

Will do. So while doing some more research on the bighorn tl3 I read that it’s pointless to buy a premium action and put a above factory chamber on it. So what’s your opinion on that should I go with a shouldered barrel? They say the TL3 is so precise that a smith doesn’t need to have the action at hand. How much accuracy would I be giving up by going with a prefit barrel?
 
Do a search on here for a thread by padom he addresses that exact question. A premium prefit is no different than a premium shouldered barrel. Apples to apples.
 
Here is a great example of using prefits on a Bighorn TL3, Proof just rebranded and marketed it to make it more mainstream.
 
Do a search on here for a thread by padom he addresses that exact question. A premium prefit is no different than a premium shouldered barrel. Apples to apples.

Dayuuum, just spent some time reading that entire thread. Seems like accuracy is coming down to the formula of the loads used.
 
I was in your same boat a year ago after 2 failed attempts of trying to get into long range with an AR15 and then a large frame AR. I wanted a custom bolt gun to my specs, on a budget that was much less then yours seems to be, and I was impatient and didnÂ’t want to wait the lead time I would have had going through a smith.

You having a higher budget and willing to wait puts you in a better boat than I was in for sure tho!

I will tell you what I did, and am absolutely extatic how it has turned out and shoots for the money I have in it.

I went with a Remage for the fact of I wanted the versatility of using a Remington action. I called my gun shop, and he ordered me a factory blued Remington short action with a .308 bolt face. It came with everything, even the X-Mark trigger, for $75.

I called Northland Shooter Supply and talked to the guy there(cannot remember his name, if you are on here I appologize). I was stuck between 6 or 6.5 Creed. I went 6.5 for the more available factory ammo as I am just now buying reloading gear. He set me up with a 24in 1:8 threaded Criterion barrel, heavy PTG bolt lug, barrel nut, Go/No Go guages, and the barrel and action wrenches. Ordered on a Monday and had in hand on Thursday.

For stock I went with the Magpul Hunter 700 and box mag kit.

20MOA Seekins Precision scope base and used my Gen 1 PST FFP I already had.

Since the intitial assembly I have sold my Gen 1 PST and upgraded to a Gen 2 PST. I also ditched the Remington trigger for a Timney Calvin Elite 2 Stage.

I have less in my entire system then some people spend on a barreled action. Not saying that makes mine better by any means, as I have felt several different aftermarket actions and they all are WAY smoother than my factory Remington, but I am more than pleased with how this gun has shot with the factory 140ELD Match Hornady ammo. I have shot 2 matches, one a club series PRS event and one just a local match and am extatic with how the gun performed as I know I need a lot more experience before I can expect high finishes.

I know this doesnÂ’t pertain exactly to your situation, but if you were so inclined I felt I would give you a very budget friendly option to consider. I have done extensive research and barrel nuts do not hurt accuracy as long as they are high quality.

You could very easily do what I did with a higher budget and get an aftermarket action and chassis of your choice. I would love to have a TL3 or Tac30 in a McMillan. Building a bolt gun is very easy to do now days though and will easily shoot with the best if you do your part.

Good luck and enjoy the process. At least for me, nothing is more enjoyable then specing out a new build and learning about how all the options on the market work!

Here are some pics of my humble 700 as I am proud to say that it is mine and I enjoy sometimes showing it off! Haha!!


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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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I have no idea if that was an every day price or a deal, I texted and asked if he could get them and he hit me back with that price
 
AHart76 thanks for sharing, if I was on a tighter budget I would definitely consider what you did but as you can see for the parts I have listed so far, I’m not. I can shoot at home out to distances of 1,100 yards and my friends and I have to always one up each other which keeps it interesting which is why I’ve selected some of the parts I have and want a tac driver if possible out of the set up. If I don’t get that with this set up I’ll change it up a bit..of course I’ll have to do my parts but I’ll also let my friends shoot it and see what they can do with it in case I think it’s me haha.
 
You mentioned your starting to acquire some reloading goodies. Here’s my little set up minus the Lyman wet tumbler.
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I’ve got everything ordered! I got virtually 100% RCBS stuff because they have a really good rebate going on right now. Rock Chucker Supreme, Chargemaster 1500, Trim Pro 2, and all the other little odds and ends. Going with Hornady Custom Grade Dies and then all the Hornady Measurmet tools. Just waiting for the press and then all the Hornady stuff to come in and ship. Already tracked down about 4lbs of H4350 though! Haha
 
Also, as far as you being on a higher budget, I understood that from the beginning, and totally envy you having the extra cash! I am young and have been saving up for one of those shiny circle things girls like as I’ve got one that enjoys guns, tractor pulling, and puts up with my hectic random farmer schedule, guess it’s time to look into making things more permanent.

The purpose of my post was to show that even a beginner in this sport can be more that sufficient building a rifle that will be capable of achieving the type of results most of us desire, especially if you wanna do any PRS type Shooting.

I feel that a barrel nut is a great way to go as it makes the rifle 100% self serviceable to the average shooter. Plus, if you think you are getting close to the end of your barrel life, call a smith and get on a list to get a new one spun up. When it’s done it will show up at your door and you can re-headspace and keep shooting. Virtually ZERO downtime of your rifle for a re-barrel.

If I could I’d have probable a Tac 30 action, Shillen or Bartlein barrel, McMillan A5, trigger tech 2 stage, and a 5-35 ATACR on top of it!

So the barrel nut(Remage) system could still be a very viable option for you, just with higher quality parts and a chassis of your liking!
 
Josh at CORE got back to me about fit in the MPA chassis and told me to definitely go with the Remi 700 as that footprint fits best. In case anyone was wondering.
 
Also, as far as you being on a higher budget, I understood that from the beginning, and totally envy you having the extra cash! I am young and have been saving up for one of those shiny circle things girls like as I’ve got one that enjoys guns, tractor pulling, and puts up with my hectic random farmer schedule, guess it’s time to look into making things more permanent.

The purpose of my post was to show that even a beginner in this sport can be more that sufficient building a rifle that will be capable of achieving the type of results most of us desire, especially if you wanna do any PRS type Shooting.

I feel that a barrel nut is a great way to go as it makes the rifle 100% self serviceable to the average shooter. Plus, if you think you are getting close to the end of your barrel life, call a smith and get on a list to get a new one spun up. When it’s done it will show up at your door and you can re-headspace and keep shooting. Virtually ZERO downtime of your rifle for a re-barrel.

If I could I’d have probable a Tac 30 action, Shillen or Bartlein barrel, McMillan A5, trigger tech 2 stage, and a 5-35 ATACR on top of it!

So the barrel nut(Remage) system could still be a very viable option for you, just with higher quality parts and a chassis of your liking!

For sure bud, I’m sure someone along the way thinking about going with a similar set up and read this thread may be intrigued by your info and may sway them from spending a lot more money.

Yea I’m definitely going to go that route this way I can play with other and exsisting calibers that I have already with it. The only thing now is that I’m confused about savage prefit barrels and remage barrels. Seems like they are both the same but remage just needs a different nut? Or if they both would work with the TL3 Remi 700 Short action footprint and Bighorn uses the same threading? If anything carbonsix has the remage so I could still go with a carbon barrel.
 
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After a quick google, I found that the TL3 uses 1-1/16x20 receiver threads. A standard R700 is
1-1/16x16. Savage uses 1.055x20, which is annoying because that is only 0.0075 off of 1-1/16x20.

Any smith that makes pre-fit barrels will have barrels and nuts available in any of these sizes and thread counts. Northland Shooters Supply is who I went through. Southern Precision offers the BugNut system, which is just another type of barrel nut. I was on Bighorns website to look up the threads of that TL3 and saw they have a few different barrel nut options. I’d give them a call and ask about their “Invisi-Nut” system. It even has me intrigued. Also, going with an action and barrel nut from the same maker would garuntee them working together and would probably even look nicer.

After that it would just be a matter of getting a barrel. Northland Shooters Supply keeps Criterion Pre-Fits in stock in all the most popular configurations and calibers. If you want something like a Bartlein, Shillen, or Hawk Hill it would just be a matter of having a smith spin you one up. Any of them should be able to do so, no problem.

I hope my information is helping and not making you more confused!
 
I searched also but came out confused because on accuracy tech a blog writer by the name of Rich made a first impression article about it and he says they use the savage small shank specification which is what you listed and not the larger thread size they started using for the WSM calibers so that through me off slightly and stopped searching after that haha so I wouldn’t confuse myself some more.

Yea I saw that and their 12 point precision built barrel nut that I really liked the look of.

I’m not looking for any of those brands as I want a carbon fiber barrel for this build. I looked at northland after you suggested it but they seem to only carry Criterion, not that there’s anything wrong with the ones you listed on them of course I’m just looking to go with a lighter alternative. I wish they would just give you some damn part numbers on what would fit hahaha!
 
Well, after doing a little reading on some other threads, I am now seeing that you do use Savage prefit Barrels on the TL3. I’m not sure if me reading that the TL3 uses 1-1/16x20 threads is wrong. Or maybe the .0075 isn’t enough of a difference to matter(seems like a lot of thread slop to me for a barrel thread so I doubt that is the case).

Either way, you have an action that takes Savage Barrels and nuts and an R700 footprint. That makes for a very self serviceable rifle!
 
Sorry for any confusion, looks like we are both doing a little learning on this topic!

Ahh no worries bud. Thanks for helping me out so far. At least we figured it out. I contacted bighorn to put my deposit in and was told they’re releasing something new at shot show in January soOoOo looks like my build may be on pause.
 
Lots of good advice so far regarding actions, so I thought I'd just touch on trigger. Being a big fan and a fairly long-time user of Jewel triggers, I don't think you should put one on the build you're describing.

They shine on BR and varmint rifles where the pull weight is down around two - eight ounces. But, and this is just my opinion, I think they feel horrible when set at two -three pounds. Which is exactly where I like a trigger to be set on a "utility" type rifle.

Maybe I'm a little old school, but Timney Triggers have always worked very well for me. Ive never felt the need to buy anything more expensive.
 
Even a nicely tuned Rem700 trigger will do the job. My .308 has one beautifully worked over and it breaks nearly as crisply as a Timney and feels night and day better than a Jewel at the same 2.75 lb pull weight.

A person would really have to spend a lot of time behind both to notice the difference between that specific R700 trigger and a Timney
 
Lots of good advice so far regarding actions, so I thought I'd just touch on trigger. Being a big fan and a fairly long-time user of Jewel triggers, I don't think you should put one on the build you're describing.

They shine on BR and varmint rifles where the pull weight is down around two - eight ounces. But, and this is just my opinion, I think they feel horrible when set at two -three pounds. Which is exactly where I like a trigger to be set on a "utility" type rifle.

Maybe I'm a little old school, but Timney Triggers have always worked very well for me. Ive never felt the need to buy anything more expensive.

Why wouldn’t I want one on a long range shooting gun? This definitely won’t be a utility rifle..just a plinking off the table or mat. My friends AR-30 is set to 1-2 pounds and love how that feels so I definitely don’t plan on adjusting it above 2.
 
Just to clarify remmage and savage prefits are the same idea with a different thread pitch. I would highly suggest just going TL3 or Mausingfield both have same basic advantages with bolt head swap and savage barrel profit abilities (mausingfield is $350 more but is already dlc coated). You definitely could use the mausingfield in the mpa probably the tl3 as well just the bolt handle etc could slightly interfere. I did something similar not too long ago. My suggestions

1. look a bug holes (southern precision) for a savage prefit as they use bartlein barrels for them.

2. Trigger all preferences but if you like 2 stage look at xtsp mod 22 or Huber; otherwise maybe look at timney single as well.

3. PAtriot valley arms or bug holes will make a good action wrench for either of the two actions I mentioned

If you build your own just make sure to get a barrel vise, appropriate wrenches barrel nut and action, anti-galling grease, go gauges...it may sound a bit complicated but it is very easy with the right tools
 
If you want to build it yourself get a short action Bighorn TL3 and a Savage prefit from Proof Research and screw into an MPA. You can do all the work without having a smith build it.

This is exactly what I would recommend. Don't know why you would want a long action for a 6.5CM.
 
Just to clarify remmage and savage prefits are the same idea with a different thread pitch. I would highly suggest just going TL3 or Mausingfield both have same basic advantages with bolt head swap and savage barrel profit abilities (mausingfield is $350 more but is already dlc coated). You definitely could use the mausingfield in the mpa probably the tl3 as well just the bolt handle etc could slightly interfere. I did something similar not too long ago. My suggestions

1. look a bug holes (southern precision) for a savage prefit as they use bartlein barrels for them.

2. Trigger all preferences but if you like 2 stage look at xtsp mod 22 or Huber; otherwise maybe look at timney single as well.

3. PAtriot valley arms or bug holes will make a good action wrench for either of the two actions I mentioned

If you build your own just make sure to get a barrel vise, appropriate wrenches barrel nut and action, anti-galling grease, go gauges...it may sound a bit complicated but it is very easy with the right tools

Right, there was just info all over the place on other threads contradictory to one another as to which one I would need to purchase to fit the TL3. Bighorn offers DLC on their website for the same price last I checked.

Just bought a 24” savage prefit Proof Research barrel. So I’m solid there now.

I was thinking Jewell, I prefer single stage triggers.

Definitely need to look into buying the action wrench, vise and gauges. I’ve watched a couple videos online and this looks easier to build than the AR I built with a lot less parts being involved.
 
So the Proof Research barrel I purchased has a 5/8x24 threads on the business end and was wondering if any of you have experimented a little with comps? I did some digging and found some research done on the APA fat bastard, did really well but there’s a new version 2 so I don’t know if it’s just as good or if that’s the one the test was done with.
 
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The gen 2 apa brakes have a jam nut on them so the end user can install and index them, the brake itself is identical to the gen 1. Id personally stay away from the fat bastard, it’s giant, and the creedmoor just doesn’t need that. The little bastard would be the appropriate size. The APA’s have been around a long time, and are well regarded. I think the Area 419 hellfire brakes, which are also user installable/ indexable, are a much nicer design, and cost the same.
 
The gen 2 apa brakes have a jam nut on them so the end user can install and index them, the brake itself is identical to the gen 1. Id personally stay away from the fat bastard, it’s giant, and the creedmoor just doesn’t need that. The little bastard would be the appropriate size. The APA’s have been around a long time, and are well regarded. I think the Area 419 hellfire brakes, which are also user installable/ indexable, are a much nicer design, and cost the same.
Supersubes, thanks for replying. After reading your response I started doing a little digging and found this article on this fella that compared the two and had some cool results to share. Both brakes patterned different.
https://forums.gunhive.com/topic/1038/area-419-hellfire-brake/3