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New Savage 12 LRP 260 Rem

B

Bach

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 27, 2013
107
1
#1
Just picked up a LRP in 260 rem. It came with the new style HS stock. Im going to take it to the range tom to see how it'll shoot. I've loaded some 140 gr nosler comps with 2000MR from 40-43 grains. After fireforming im going to start load dev with 140 gr hybrids and 139 gr lapuas. I've taken some weight measurments if anyone is wondering about weight.
Completly stock - 11.6 lb
HS stock with factory bottom metal and mag - 3.4 lb
Barreled action - 8.2 lb
AICS + spigot/Atlas + mono - 15.4 lb
AICS + spigot/atlas + mono +Zeiss HD5+Farrel base/rings + empty 10rd mag - 19 lb!
Pics:
Stock



AICS




With my Savage 10 HS 308

 
#5
I just bought one of these and love it. I kept the HS Precision stock on it and put a Bushnell ERS 3.5-21x50 on it. It is very accurate. My reloads are: 123gr Nosler Competition, 45gr RL19, Lapua brass, CCI200 primers. I'm getting .296 groups at 100 yards.
 
#6
Love my 260 26" DTA. Using Lapua brass with H4831 at 45.7 gr. Berger 140 gr. BTHP. Fed. 210 & 215 primers about the same. Lapua 139 gr. about the same at 2710 fps. Lapua L 136 gr. just did not shoot as well. Berger 140 gr. the best! Best MOA at 100 yards 0.16, but all 5 shot groups < 0.5 MOA. Good Luck
 
#7
steinmaster said:
I just bought one of these and love it. I kept the HS Precision stock on it and put a Bushnell ERS 3.5-21x50 on it. It is very accurate. My reloads are: 123gr Nosler Competition, 45gr RL19, Lapua brass, CCI200 primers. I'm getting .296 groups at 100 yards.
Click to expand...

Thats a nice group. What OAL are you loading at? Mine has a pretty short throat it seems. I tried AICS mag length which is about 2.880 OAL and the bolt wouldt close. Had to come down to 2.825 for the bolt to close so I loaded them at 2.800".

Once I have some fired brass im going to drill/tap to work with hornady gage

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#8
Bach said:
Thats a nice group. What OAL are you loading at? Mine has a pretty short throat it seems. I tried AICS mag length which is about 2.880 OAL and the bolt wouldt close. Had to come down to 2.825 for the bolt to close so I loaded them at 2.800".

Once I have some fired brass im going to drill/tap to work with hornady gage

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I seated my bullets for a COAL of 2.800 since I didn't have a modified 260 Rem case for my Hornady OAL gauge. I just had one made today so I'm going to measure my distance to the lands and start playing with different bullet seating depths.
 
#9
Cool. Well I just got back from the range. Rifle shot under MOA at 100yds. Cant complain considering it was the 1st time out and I was shooting random loads. Rifle functioned perfectly.

I loaded nosler comp 140 grain with Alliant 2000mr from 40.5 to 44 grains. What suprised me was the fps I was seeing.

41.0 grain gave ave fps of 2788 over 20 rounds. 42.0 had fps of 2857 with 16 rounds shot. I though chrono might be off so I tried some factory nosler throphy 125 grain with listed fps of 2950 and got ave of 2958fps over 10 rounds. Also according to shooter 2857fps and nosler 140grain combo should get to 600yds with 11.9moa adjustment and I hit the 6" steel at 600yds with 11.8 moa. So the chrono is not lying.

This was at 1700ft above sea and about 85deg. 28.11 inHg.

I started seeng slight ejector marks at 42.4 and stopped at 43.0 since im more than happy at 2800-2850 fps. 2 shots at 43.0 recorded 2911 and 2915.

Overall im pretty happy. Ill prolly shoot another 100 or so rounds and then start load development.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#10
Bach said:
Just picked up a LRP in 260 rem. It came with the new style HS stock. Im going to take it to the range tom to see how it'll shoot. I've loaded some 140 gr nosler comps with 2000MR from 40-43 grains. After fireforming im going to start load dev with 140 gr hybrids and 139 gr lapuas. I've taken some weight measurments if anyone is wondering about weight.
Completly stock - 11.6 lb
HS stock with factory bottom metal and mag - 3.4 lb
Barreled action - 8.2 lb
AICS + spigot/Atlas + mono - 15.4 lb
AICS + spigot/atlas + mono +Zeiss HD5+Farrel base/rings + empty 10rd mag - 19 lb!
Pics:
Stock



AICS




With my Savage 10 HS 308

Click to expand...

Did you have to do any gunsmithing to drop your LRP into the AI chassis? I may consider getting one for my LRP. I like your set-up
 
#11
My son bought one of these several months ago. He was talking about buying a nice used GAP or AI but I talked him into spending more on the glass and he hasn't been sorry. The first thing we had to do was to make the trigger pull heavier. In cooler weather the trigger wouldn't reset. Making the trigger pull heavier fixed that problem. We've found that it loves 139 Lapua bullets and H4350 or Varget powder. He topped it with the nightforce ATACR. Great glass. These are a lot of gun for the money and the .260 is a hell of a long range caliber.
 
#12
kansas said:
My son bought one of these several months ago. He was talking about buying a nice used GAP or AI but I talked him into spending more on the glass and he hasn't been sorry. The first thing we had to do was to make the trigger pull heavier. In cooler weather the trigger wouldn't reset. Making the trigger pull heavier fixed that problem. We've found that it loves 139 Lapua bullets and H4350 or Varget powder. He topped it with the nightforce ATACR. Great glass. These are a lot of gun for the money and the .260 is a hell of a long range caliber.
Click to expand...

I was on the verge of buying a $4,000 custom 260 Remington and bought this (12 LRP). I'm glad I did. Great rifle. I was reloading 123 grain Nosler Competition bullets and could not get good groups with H4350. Is H4350 powder the best for heavier bullets (139-142 grains)??? RL19 was great with the 123 grain Nosler's.
 
#14
Bach said:
Just picked up a LRP in 260 rem. It came with the new style HS stock. Im going to take it to the range tom to see how it'll shoot. I've loaded some 140 gr nosler comps with 2000MR from 40-43 grains. After fireforming im going to start load dev with 140 gr hybrids and 139 gr lapuas. I've taken some weight measurments if anyone is wondering about weight.
Completly stock - 11.6 lb
HS stock with factory bottom metal and mag - 3.4 lb
Barreled action - 8.2 lb
AICS + spigot/Atlas + mono - 15.4 lb
AICS + spigot/atlas + mono +Zeiss HD5+Farrel base/rings + empty 10rd mag - 19 lb!
Pics:
Stock



AICS




With my Savage 10 HS 308

Click to expand...

AICS?. Are you sure?
 
#18
Well I got some bad news. 42.8 and 43.0 grain loads have blown primer pockets and 42.4-42.6 have very loose pockets. Total of 9 cases lost. Its weird since all the 43.0 grain showed was slight ejector marks. No sticky bolt. Primers were slightly flat but no worse than factory Noslers I shot. I think im going to stay under 41.8grains with the 140 grains noslers

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#20
I did a OCW test today with 139 grain Lapua and 140grain berger hybrid s and 2000MR. Not sure what to make if 41.6grain load and the FPS. There is a 100fps difference between 41.6 and 41.2. The rest of FPS seem reasonable. No pressure signs/ blown primers this time. I had to back off 0.085" off the lands for the berger hybrids to fit in AICS mags.


 
#21
I have found that new Nosler 260 brass develops loose primer pockets after 2-3 loading. Not so with Lapua brass or once fired Win or Rem. Very disappointed, since I purchased 400 rounds of Nosler brass and don't want to sell to some unsuspecting soul!
Have 700 rounds of Lapua brass going strong, after 4-5 reloads.
 
#22
How "new"sib? My nosler brass last yr went 8-9 firings before they got donuts( thanks 260), primer pockets were still tight. Load was 142smk and 44.5 gr h4350@2850. The lapua brass i got was SHIT, crooked nks and nk thickness variation of .0115-.0165, on the same piece of brass. Burrs in flash holes also, good thing i paid a premium for it. When the barrel was burned out at 1800 rds i rejoiced and screwed on a 6.5 creedmoor. So much easier to tune and doesn't need load fiddling to stay in tune. At least IMHO on one factory tikka varmint260.
 
#23
I have some very good advice for you: pull the factory barrel off and replace it with a Criterion or Shilen pre-fit from Jim at Northland Shooters Supply. It will be the best $350 you ever spent on a rifle. Here's why:

I have owned three Savage rifles in the past three years: one 11 LRH, and two identical 12 LRP's. All three have been used in several competitions, and all three have the same rough barrel rifling with tool marks that make the barrel look threaded. I've been fighting a losing battle with inconsistent velocities, horrid fouling, blown primers, and countless unexplained flyers. Half the 260 Lupua brass I bought went in the trash thanks to pressure problems. It wasn't until I gave in and bought a new barrel that the difference was made clear.

Not only did I shoot five shots in a 1.5" group at 330 yards with a 28" Criterion barrel, but I'm able to get the same velocity out of the same cartridge using two grains less powder. I would get 2810 FPS* (average) from 44.0 grains H4350 using 140 grain AMAX and Remington brass, but now I get a solid 2830 FPS from the exact same cartridge along with much tighter groups. I fired fifty rounds through the Criterion barrel and it hardly had any sign of carbon afterwards, whereas the factory barrels would foul the lands and rifling with copper after only ten shots.

Take a good close look at the rifling in your barrel, and unless it's a mirror finish you'll be fighting it forever. Here's what both my 12 LRP factory barrels look like after a few rounds. My Criterion barrel cleaned to a mirror finish again after one wet patch and one dry... no brush needed.
 
#24
Thanks for the great information. What Criterion barrel contour did you get to fit your HS Precision stock? My LRP is new so it has the higher check piece on the stock (unlike the picture on Savage's web site).

I just got done breaking in the barrel and am starting load development. I am getting unexplained fliers and the barrel is accumulating a lot of copper and carbon (even after I did good break-in). I inspected the bore and compared it to a Cooper rifle I have. The Savage bore appears very rough and dirty even after I thoroughly cleaned it. I'm disappointed now. I will definitely invest in a pre-fit barrel now. Are these barrels easy to install? Is it as simple as unscrewing the original barrel nut and screwing on the new barrel? I will have my gun smith to the install.
 
#25
Das Capitolin said:
I have some very good advice for you: pull the factory barrel off and replace it with a Criterion or Shilen pre-fit from Jim at Northland Shooters Supply. It will be the best $350 you ever spent on a rifle. Here's why:

I have owned three Savage rifles in the past three years: one 11 LRH, and two identical 12 LRP's. All three have been used in several competitions, and all three have the same rough barrel rifling with tool marks that make the barrel look threaded. I've been fighting a losing battle with inconsistent velocities, horrid fouling, blown primers, and countless unexplained flyers. Half the 260 Lupua brass I bought went in the trash thanks to pressure problems. It wasn't until I gave in and bought a new barrel that the difference was made clear.

Not only did I shoot five shots in a 1.5" group at 330 yards with a 28" Criterion barrel, but I'm able to get the same velocity out of the same cartridge using two grains less powder. I would get 2810 FPS* (average) from 44.0 grains H4350 using 140 grain AMAX and Remington brass, but now I get a solid 2830 FPS from the exact same cartridge along with much tighter groups. I fired fifty rounds through the Criterion barrel and it hardly had any sign of carbon afterwards, whereas the factory barrels would foul the lands and rifling with copper after only ten shots.

Take a good close look at the rifling in your barrel, and unless it's a mirror finish you'll be fighting it forever. Here's what both my 12 LRP factory barrels look like after a few rounds. My Criterion barrel cleaned to a mirror finish again after one wet patch and one dry... no brush needed.
Click to expand...
I hear what you saying about changing barrels. I had Bartlein barrel installed on my Savage 10 FCP 308 and it completly changed the rifle. no fliers. much more consistent shot to shot.

I dont have a bore scope so im not sure how the inside of the barrel looks like. to my naked eye it looks smooth. So far my LRP 260 has been shooting slightly under 1MOA at 100yds with Lapua 139 and Nosler 140 CC loads which is what I expected. I havent tried any further yet. Berger hybrids grouped about 1.5". All 3 loads were with 2000MR which is not the best powder for 6.5 bullets based on what I've been reading. im trying to get some H4350 to try it out.

My plan is to shoot 1200-1500 rounds with the factory barrel and then install another Bartlein. This will give me opportunity to learn more about reloading 260rem, try diff bullet/powder combos seating depths etc..

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 
#26
steinmaster said:
Thanks for the great information. What Criterion barrel contour did you get to fit your HS Precision stock? My LRP is new so it has the higher check piece on the stock (unlike the picture on Savage's web site).

I just got done breaking in the barrel and am starting load development. I am getting unexplained fliers and the barrel is accumulating a lot of copper and carbon (even after I did good break-in). I inspected the bore and compared it to a Cooper rifle I have. The Savage bore appears very rough and dirty even after I thoroughly cleaned it. I'm disappointed now. I will definitely invest in a pre-fit barrel now. Are these barrels easy to install? Is it as simple as unscrewing the original barrel nut and screwing on the new barrel? I will have my gun smith to the install.
Click to expand...
I called Jim and ordered the 28″ Criterion Stainless Match – Large Shank – Bull – 260 Rem – 8 Twist – $320.00: Criterion ? Savage Barrels |. Don't buy an after-market barrel nut or recoil lug unless you have money to burn... Savage uses a floating bolt head, making these relatively frivolous.
It arrived only two days later (he ships same day), and took all of five minutes to remove the barrel nut and pull the factory barrel, insert the no-go gauge and screw the new barrel in with recoil lug, and torque the barrel nut back to the action. You'll need a barrel vice (or similar set-up), wrench for Savage large shank barrel nut, and go/no-go gauges. You could ask around your area for someone who has done this on their rifle, because a gunsmith would cost much more than it would to buy the supplies yourself.

If you keep shooting the factory barrel, you'll be wasting time and money. Savage makes great rifles, but horrible barrels.
 
#27
I too have a Mod 12 LRP in 260 Rem with good scope, bipod, and averageish skills? With just over 200 rounds through, it groups around 3/4 moa at 100yds with occasional flyers (one every 4 or 5?) out 1 1/2 or 2". Has that same rough in appearance rifling (looks like fine machine thread) copper and carbon fouls quickly, etc. MV actually seems to be slowing down? (I continue to true MV as results downrange dictate) Has anyone had any luck with lapping one of these or should I just cut losses and spring for new barrel? Don't want to hijack, but figured this was a good place to jump in.
 
#29
Das Capitolin said:
I called Jim and ordered the 28″ Criterion Stainless Match – Large Shank – Bull – 260 Rem – 8 Twist – $320.00: Criterion ? Savage Barrels |. Don't buy an after-market barrel nut or recoil lug unless you have money to burn... Savage uses a floating bolt head, making these relatively frivolous.
It arrived only two days later (he ships same day), and took all of five minutes to remove the barrel nut and pull the factory barrel, insert the no-go gauge and screw the new barrel in with recoil lug, and torque the barrel nut back to the action. You'll need a barrel vice (or similar set-up), wrench for Savage large shank barrel nut, and go/no-go gauges. You could ask around your area for someone who has done this on their rifle, because a gunsmith would cost much more than it would to buy the supplies yourself.

If you keep shooting the factory barrel, you'll be wasting time and money. Savage makes great rifles, but horrible barrels.
Click to expand...

I ordered a 26 inch Shilen instead of the 28 inch Criterion. I wanted to keep my rifle at 26. It should arrive tomorrow. I hope the Shilen is as good as the Criterion. I asked Jim and he said they were pretty much same in quality. I can't wait to get this thing on and see how it shoots. Did you do a break-in on your Criterion barrel? If so, what did you do?
 
#30
I believe that only factory barrels require any break in period. An aftermarket barrel that receives lapping usually only requires a dry patch to clean out any machining oil or debris. I'm one of those people who believe the most accurate shots are at the beginning of the barrels life, and it degrades from that point forward. I don't see any point in accelerating the wear and tear on the rifling with break in.
 
#32
I had one and overall I thought it was a good rifle. It was accurate and consistent. Honestly the only two things about it that I didn't like where:
1. It didn't clean up easy and copper fouled pretty much no matter what
2. I couldn't get it up too speed where I wanted with the 140's now the 123's where no problem just couldn't get what I needed at 800+ with them.
 
#33
dragman said:
I had one and overall I thought it was a good rifle. It was accurate and consistent. Honestly the only two things about it that I didn't like where:
1. It didn't clean up easy and copper fouled pretty much no matter what
2. I couldn't get it up too speed where I wanted with the 140's now the 123's where no problem just couldn't get what I needed at 800+ with them.
Click to expand...
What speeds were you getting with the 140s?
 
#34
most accurate loads where only in the 2775fps range and some that where a little worse but decent where around 2815fps. Just not enough to compete in the long range and the wind would kick your but pretty good at long ranges.
 
#35
Bach said:
What speeds were you getting with the 140s?
Click to expand...
With the factory Savage barrel my 140's were never consistent, despite double-checking charges and weight-sorting brass (and bullets). Sometimes 42.0 grains would produce 2790, and other times it would be 2670. Sometimes the barrel would shoot decent groups, and other times it had fliers all over the place. Screw on the new Criterion barrel, and all ten shots from each of five nodes maintained only single-digit SD. 42.0 grains now gets a consistent 2830 FPS. The difference between a factory Savage barrel and anything aftermarket that has been lapped is night and day.
 
#36
dragman said:
most accurate loads where only in the 2775fps range and some that where a little worse but decent where around 2815fps. Just not enough to compete in the long range and the wind would kick your but pretty good at long ranges.
Click to expand...
The load that im probably going to settle on is around 2800-2820fps. Im new to 6.5mms so im happy with 2800fps. Even at only 2800 the 140BTHP will drift 15" less at 1000yds with 10mph wind than my 308 178BTHP load at 2824fps. At least according to Shooter. Not sure how it will work out in real world.
 
#37
Bach said:
The load that im probably going to settle on is around 2800-2820fps. Im new to 6.5mms so im happy with 2800fps. Even at only 2800 the 140BTHP will drift 15" less at 1000yds with 10mph wind than my 308 178BTHP load at 2824fps. At least according to Shooter. Not sure how it will work out in real world.
Click to expand...

It's not that it's bad but there's a lot out there that will do a LOT better.
 
#38
If you insist on using the Savage factory barrel, know that 140's will start popping primers at around 2800 FPS. Slightly better in Remington brass, slightly less in thick Lapua brass. Their barrels are typically filled with tool marks which (in addition to immediate heavy fouling) cause drag on the bearing surface of the bullet and sap away velocity while building pressure. Most of those people with faster loads are shooting aftermarket barrels with 140s. I'm not saying you can't shoot them with the factory barrel, because I did for an entire competitive season, but you'll go mad trying to figure out where the fliers are coming from and why you get heavy vertical deviation.
 
#39
steinmaster said:
I ordered a 26 inch Shilen instead of the 28 inch Criterion. I wanted to keep my rifle at 26. It should arrive tomorrow. I hope the Shilen is as good as the Criterion. I asked Jim and he said they were pretty much same in quality. I can't wait to get this thing on and see how it shoots. Did you do a break-in on your Criterion barrel? If so, what did you do?
Click to expand...

Good choice on the Shilen. That is what I spun on to replace my factory Savage barrel and it was the best $350 I've ever spent on a rifle!! Ridiculously accurate barely begins to describe the barrel I have. If I miss a target I KNOW it is shooter error either in execution or wind. Mine sped up ~75fps after the first 100 rounds and is now 2850fs with 41.6gr H4350 in Lapua brass.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-shilen-260-remington-barrel.html#post2503513

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...m-long-range-precision-6-5-a.html#post2619922
 
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