Saw this. Not sure if it’s new to market but it’s new to me. This will not replace my badger dead level but it’s another option.
www.realavid.com
Level-Right® Pro – REAL AVID®
www.realavid.com Rifle Scopes New scope leveling tool
- Thread starter _Windrider_
- Start date
In the description:
“Specifically designed for open barreled (exposed barrel) bolt action and lever action rifles, or rifles with a picatinny top rail handguard.”
Then this pic is shown (only gun they show):
hmmmmmmm…
Looks like a more complicated version of this EXD tool at Brownells.
“Specifically designed for open barreled (exposed barrel) bolt action and lever action rifles, or rifles with a picatinny top rail handguard.”
Then this pic is shown (only gun they show):
hmmmmmmm…
Looks like a more complicated version of this EXD tool at Brownells.
The exposed barrel part. If it works like the EXD tool, it indexes off the barrel (and the scope). Indexing off the hand guard is…less than good.
There’s no guarantee the bore is in the dead center of the barrel, but I would think it’s closer than hand guard-to-bore concentricity.
I agree with you guys. I’ll stick with the EXD tool and the badger dead level.
Yeah, the Badger is most likely the way to go. Lowlight uses the Badger.
I bought the EXD before I was edjedmacated so…I just don’t know enough to say if the geometry behind the EXD is sound (bore concentric to barrel, scope objective housing centered to line of sight [or whatever the correct terminology is] etc etc).
Serious question,
How does LL using the badger coincide with the fact that he also has stated he levels to his natural cant?
Also, after leveling on the Badger, is there never a difference between the scope position when moving from the badger rail to the rail on your rifle?
Seems to me, as much of a PITA as it is, plumb line, with multiple rifle/scope levels on your rifle, done with your natural cant is the only way to ensure its perfect. If its not, I'd love to know cause I'll spend $165...yesterday.
Exactly the question that popped into my mind.
Yeah, this is a delicate subject with LL. I think the condensed version is:
Suffice to say the dude has been through this a million times and already knows what you think is new information. It’s just that it wears a bit and, like any expert, little bits of info get assumed by him and not passed on, which creates confusion in minds like mine.
It’s easy to stress and overthink. I went from anal as fuck to:
Edit: sharp-eyed readers may see that I didn’t mention adjusting the rifle to my shoulder (i.e. creating an “unlevel” rifle) and then #8. That’s either because:
If you’re shooting prone, more attention upon rifle cant may or may not be in order. I simply do not know.
- Unless you have a 3 way adjustable butt plate, you’ll have some rifle cant because…shoulders
- So don’t worry about #1, just be “cant consistent”. Mathematically, #1 does not make a hill of beans difference at the target if one is consistent. It makes a “one bean” difference lol, not a hill of them.
- In your shooting position(s), level the reticle to gravity
- Go shoot
Suffice to say the dude has been through this a million times and already knows what you think is new information. It’s just that it wears a bit and, like any expert, little bits of info get assumed by him and not passed on, which creates confusion in minds like mine.
It’s easy to stress and overthink. I went from anal as fuck to:
- Put rifle on tripod (tripods make this easy). I shoot off of tripods or benches, never prone.
- Mount scope snug on the rifle, not tight, so it doesn’t fall off
- Point rifle at plumb edge of neighbor’s garage because rotating throws off level step on #4
- Use EXD to get rifle/scope “unit” level enough
- Loosen ring caps
- Get eye relief right at min/max mags
- Put a tape marker on scope next to ring for reference so if I bump the scope, I don’t lose #6
- Use hopefully plumb edge of neighbor’s garage to get reticle level to gravity
- Tighten rings (Use Arc M10 rings to migrate scope rotating in rings while tightening)
- Go shoot
Edit: sharp-eyed readers may see that I didn’t mention adjusting the rifle to my shoulder (i.e. creating an “unlevel” rifle) and then #8. That’s either because:
A. I seem to be able to hold the rifle level while using a tripod or bench. Or, the former is in my head and…
B. I just don’t give a flying fuck anymore
If you’re shooting prone, more attention upon rifle cant may or may not be in order. I simply do not know.
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Pretty sure in the podcast either Marc or Frank mention they get a lot of canted scopes that they proceed to level unless the owner has purposely induced cant.
I have their 3 piece set. I picked up my Bergara B14R today and installed the NX8 using the wedgies. Makes for a very quick job, I ran a thin cord through each piece to help keep the stuff together,
I will advice you to stick with EXD tool, It really works well .
Yeah... if you want to level the scope to the rifle, then I haven't found anything better than a deck of playing cards or some feeler gauges from hardware store. If you want to level scope/reticle to gravity (because you cant the rifle when you shoot), then get behind the rifle and use a plumb line. No special tools or gadgets are needed in either case.
The Arisaka tool is something commonly used by machinists and engineers. And it WOULD be a good option except it doesn't fit under any scope I've ever tried if your action has an integrated rail, which most do these days. It's just too large. At least for most 5-25x scopes.
The Arisaka tool is something commonly used by machinists and engineers. And it WOULD be a good option except it doesn't fit under any scope I've ever tried if your action has an integrated rail, which most do these days. It's just too large. At least for most 5-25x scopes.
I don't even see how cards and feeler gauges matter either. I think it really has to be a plumb line or similar. Even if you don't care about leveling to natural cant, feeler gauges and tools similar to the Ariska are wholly based upon the assumption the reticle is level with the bottom of the scope.
True. But in my experience, with the scopes I use, the reticle is indeed level to the bottom of the scope. As always, YMMV.
If using a quality scope the reticle should be perpendicular. If using a tasco not even a plumb bob will help. Now I’m not an advocate of the deck of cards feeler gauge method, it does work in is a great field expedient technique. But given the time I still use the plumb bob. I’ve never not had a reticle be gtg but eventually I’ll get one because that’s just how it is. I always level off the rifle on a badger dead level. I use adjustable buttstocks when ever possible that allow slight canting of the recoil pad while keeping the actual rifle level.
Yeap. For my own rifles, I take the time and plumb bob it. However I am often mounting up rifles in volume where exact precision is not always the primary concern so the badger may be worth the spend.
No the badger is used in conjunction with the bob. It eliminates the need to keep a rifle steady and level while adjusting and torquing
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