New to reloading need advice where to start 300wm

[Dennis5374]

So I just picked up a Hornady LnL classic reloading kit , with their case trimmer , and their match 300wm die set . This is completely new to me and I have no idea where to start . This is an elf rifle I plan to shoot to 1000 and beyond.

It’s a blueprinted rem 700 action with a 24” 1/10 twist barrel sitting in a mdt oryx chassis with a vortex viper pst gen 2 5-25 optic . I have some federal premium ff brass for it , but as far as new casings , primers , bullets and powder selection , I’m lost .
I was going to get some h1000 and retumbo but my local store has nothing ..

Anyways , I’m open to any suggestions as to what projectile will work well , as well as powder primer brass suggestions , so I can start down the rabbit hole asap

 

[Maurygold]

start with the best and throw that federal brass away. lapua brass, hodgdon powder- either h4350 or h1000, fed 215m primer (cci is an option), Berger 215 byhrbid - which shoot best between 15-45 thou jump.

 

[B y r o n]

Most good reloading manuals have a chapter in the front that runs through the basics of reloading safe rounds. Which reloading manual do you have?

 

[Dennis5374]

Most good reloading manuals have a chapter in the front that runs through the basics of reloading safe rounds. Which reloading manual do you have?

I have the Hornady manual I believe “came with the press”

 

[B y r o n]

I have the Hornady manual I believe “came with the press”

If your Hornady manual is close to my Tenth Edition manual, right after the Preface section is the Basics of Reloading. Mine is about 40 pages long and take your time reading through it as there are many important steps and cautions that you don't want to skip over. Once you've run through the basics a few times and you have a better understanding on what and when to do things you can explore more advanced steps that will allow you to build more accurate rounds.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Get a comparator and measure your fired cases and only F/L resize minus .002" from the fired case shoulder datum. This will save your brass from case head separations. Treat a belted magnum case just as you would a regular, non belted case.

 

[supercorndogs]

Open up your hornady Manuel to 300wm and look at your powder choices for 300wm. What's available? What bullet?

I like 4831 7977 4000mr. H4350 is a little on the fast side for me since I shoot the 208 amax.

 

[Mcrider55]

YouTube is a great place to start for learning about reloading. You'll find endless videos on all aspects of it. Just remember, you're gonna see a myriad of various opinions, so take it slowly. Hornady has some great vids to start with.

I suggest when you first start loading. Do a small number and then go shoot. Those first shots should give you an idea about how you've done. There's an awful lot of self satisfaction in shooting your own stuff.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Anyways , I’m open to any suggestions as to what projectile will work well , as well as powder primer brass suggestions , so I can start down the rabbit hole asap

It's been a while since I had a 300 Win Mag, but things have actually improved somewhat for the caliber as it relates to components.

- My number one rule on components is if you can get Lapua brass, you get Lapua brass. They now make 300 Win Mag brass and it's even available. Get it and be happy you can.

- For bullets, I found that those in the ~200gr range work well for longer range work. Try and find some Berger hybrids (or hunters with hybrid ogives. I found the 200.20x to work great, but it's not really available right now. They also have a 200 hybrid that is slightly less good than the 200.20x, but it's available and would be a good choice.

- For primers, it's whatever you can find. If you're not going to be shooting in really cold weather, you don't need magnum primers. I only shoot in 50ish degrees and up and use CCI BR 2s. If you can find Federal 215Ms or 210Ms, those are good as well.

- For powder, check your reloading manual for the bullet you end up using. For the ~200gr range, slower powders like H1000 tend to be good. It has been available recently.

 

[rdinak]

Accuracy is a function of consistency. You can not improve what you cannot measure. Dial calipers, comparator with dial indicator and

+1 on best quality components. Lapua brass is my personal preference. Good luck on your quest to obtain 215M’s.

 

[WasNH4X]

Anyways , I’m open to any suggestions ...........

$ 100 dollar bills......many pockets full and then more.
Cheapest thing to buy is a pen and notebook to write everything down....and I mean everything. Headspace comparator ,as mentioned above.
You're on the right track with the powder....if you can find any. Can't go wrong with Berger bullets and Lapua brass....this where them $100s come onto play. Good luck finding "Magnum" primers......more $100.
Happy loading........this is gonna be an expensive rabbit hole, so stack them $100s deep ,you gonna need them.

 

[D̷e̷v̷i̷l̷D̷o̷c̷A̷Z̷]

Start with learning about Case Head Separation so we don’t have you coming back after 3 firings asking why half your brass is stuck in your chamber.

 

[Maurygold]

Accuracy is a function of consistency. You can not improve what you cannot measure. Dial calipers, comparator with dial indicator and

+1 on best quality components. Lapua brass is my personal preference. Good luck on your quest to obtain 215M’s.

Bought 5k in the last 4 months they’re coming around

 

[Ocean_Dweller]

start with the best and throw that federal brass away. lapua brass, hodgdon powder- either h4350 or h1000, fed 215m primer (cci is an option), Berger 215 byhrbid - which shoot best between 15-45 thou jump.

Couldn't have said it any better. If it won't shoot with that combo, it probably never will. The only thing I would add is to add a comparator to your kit if you haven't already. You need to be able measure everything before and after firing so you know what's going on.

 

[DIBBS]

Why both the 300 WSM and 300 WM are grouped together below, beats the hell out of me.

I have had excellent luck with 208-215 grain projectiles, H1000/RL26, Fed 215's or CCI 250's in two different rifles

This section has a lot of info, find what your rifle likes (ie don't use others data, start low, and work up)

.300wm - .300wsm

Same Data LOADS FOR .300WSM WILL BE DESIGNATED PLS

www.snipershide.com

 

[Dennis5374]

$ 100 dollar bills......many pockets full and then more.
Cheapest thing to buy is a pen and notebook to write everything down....and I mean everything. Headspace comparator ,as mentioned above.
You're on the right track with the powder....if you can find any. Can't go wrong with Berger bullets and Lapua brass....this where them $100s come onto play. Good luck finding "Magnum" primers......more $100.
Happy loading........this is gonna be an expensive rabbit hole, so stack them $100s deep ,you gonna need them.

I’ve heard large rifle primers are ok to use as well ? Any issues I should be made aware of on that front ?

 

[Rocketmandb]

I’ve heard large rifle primers are ok to use as well ? Any issues I should be made aware of on that front ?

The difference between "large rifle" primers and "large rifle magnum" primers is that the magnum primers have a higher charge. This means magnum primers ignite the powder better when:

- They are in a round with a large amount of powder
- They are being used in very cold temperatures where more energy is required to ignite the powder

Tidbits of info:

- Magnum primers will increase the total pressure slightly, meaning that you will reach pressure in the case sooner (e.g. with slightly less powder).

- Non-magnum primers will take slightly more powder to get the same umph out of the powder.

- "Match" primers typically have slightly more charge and more consistency (and consequently cost more).

Shifting away from primers to other important things.

- Different brass will tend to have different thickness, which impacts interior volume, which impacts pressure when you shoot. The formula is PV=nRT where P is pressure, V is volume, n is the amount of gas, T is the temperature, and R is a constant. So, for the same nRT, if your interior case volume is lower when using a different case, the pressure has to go up - and vice versa. This is why you get one type of brass and use only that one type of brass.

- Referring to the same equation, if your temperature goes up, your pressure will go up with all other things staying constant. This is why you should be careful when doing load development on a cool day, for example, then shooting on a hot day. You could go over pressure. The same thing applies to having a hot barrel and leaving the round in the chamber too long before you shoot. My limit is usually about 10-15 seconds. If for whatever reason I haven't fired, I remove the round and set it aside to cool a bit.

- Different bullets from different manufacturers may engage the lands differently, which can cause pressure differences. A Hornady 208 grain bullet may exhibit a different pressure than a Berger 208, for example. Same thing applies to how far off the lands you seat a bullet.

- Different lots of the same powder may behave differently, as will powders exposed to different levels of humidity (higher humidity=less umph).

All of the above is why you want to do a couple ladders where you start somewhere in the lowish-middle of the range advertised by your reloading manual and work up (at like .3 grains of powder per step for your cartridge) to find where you hit pressure at a given temp with a given case, primer, bullet and powder. If any of the components change, you want to do a mini ladder to validate your load.

 

[Dennis5374]

The difference between "large rifle" primers and "large rifle magnum" primers is that the magnum primers have a higher charge. This means magnum primers ignite the powder better when:

- They are in a round with a large amount of powder
- They are being used in very cold temperatures where more energy is required to ignite the powder

Tidbits of info:

- Magnum primers will increase the total pressure slightly, meaning that you will reach pressure in the case sooner (e.g. with slightly less powder).

- Non-magnum primers will take slightly more powder to get the same umph out of the powder.

- "Match" primers typically have slightly more charge and more consistency (and consequently cost more).

Shifting away from primers to other important things.

- Different brass will tend to have different thickness, which impacts interior volume, which impacts pressure when you shoot. The formula is PV=nRT where P is pressure, V is volume, n is the amount of gas, T is the temperature, and R is a constant. So, for the same nRT, if your interior case volume is lower when using a different case, the pressure has to go up - and vice versa. This is why you get one type of brass and use only that one type of brass.

- Referring to the same equation, if your temperature goes up, your pressure will go up with all other things staying constant. This is why you should be careful when doing load development on a cool day, for example, then shooting on a hot day. You could go over pressure. The same thing applies to having a hot barrel and leaving the round in the chamber too long before you shoot. My limit is usually about 10-15 seconds. If for whatever reason I haven't fired, I remove the round and set it aside to cool a bit.

- Different bullets from different manufacturers may engage the lands differently, which can cause pressure differences. A Hornady 208 grain bullet may exhibit a different pressure than a Berger 208, for example. Same thing applies to how far off the lands you seat a bullet.

- Different lots of the same powder may behave differently, as will powders exposed to different levels of humidity (higher humidity=less umph).

All of the above is why you want to do a couple ladders where you start somewhere in the lowish-middle of the range advertised by your reloading manual and work up (at like .3 grains of powder per step for your cartridge) to find where you hit pressure at a given temp with a given case, primer, bullet and powder. If any of the components change, you want to do a mini ladder to validate your load.

Awesome information man ! Thank you very much . I’ve still got about 700+ pages of reloading data to read as well

 

[Dennis5374]

start with the best and throw that federal brass away. lapua brass, hodgdon powder- either h4350 or h1000, fed 215m primer (cci is an option), Berger 215 byhrbid - which shoot best between 15-45 thou jump.

Crazy this brass is considered” trash” to most , as I’ve found it to be some of the most accurate factory ammo for my 300. Win mag , as well as my tikka t3x .

My tikka 6.5cm shoots 1/2 moa, with federal terminal ascent 130s . My bergara was a 3/4 rifle with it as well .

My 300wm shot 3/4 moa with 200 grain terminal ascent as well .

Can not find any retumbo or h1000 anywhere .

I did get some ram shot magnum to play with , now I just need to find magnum primers. I ordered 100 pieces of lapua brass as well

 

[Maurygold]

Crazy this brass is considered” trash” to most , as I’ve found it to be some of the most accurate factory ammo for my 300. Win mag , as well as my tikka t3x .

My tikka 6.5cm shoots 1/2 moa, with federal terminal ascent 130s . My bergara was a 3/4 rifle with it as well .

My 300wm shot 3/4 moa with 200 grain terminal ascent as well .

Can not find any retumbo or h1000 anywhere .

I did get some ram shot magnum to play with , now I just need to find magnum primers. I ordered 100 pieces of lapua brass as well

If you chrono it you'll see the large swing in pressure it exhibits and it will struggle at distance but 100/ 200 yards is not far enough for it to be an issue - but absolutely will at distance.

h1000 is in stock now and will be the last powder you ever need for a magnum - https://www.powdervalley.com/produc...=ProductFeed&utm_campaign=Branding&utm_id=PVI

 

[hafejd30]

I say toss the federal as well. Thick and soft brass. Buying the Lapua is a good move. I ran Nosler as that’s what was available when I used mine. Otherwise it’s Lapua brass for everything

Lapua brass
CCI 250 primer
H4350
200 ELDX and 178 ELDX are what I played with. These weights will stabilize very well in a 1:10 twist.

I was lucky enough when I started out to have a mentor teach me the basics. Then moved up on my own from there. Reading books and these forums are great tools. I’ll second the YouTube advice above. Lots of great YouTube videos out there that show you everything from the basics to bench or fclass techniques.

The rabbit hole runs deep. So ease into it

 

[Rocketmandb]

Crazy this brass is considered” trash” to most , as I’ve found it to be some of the most accurate factory ammo for my 300. Win mag , as well as my tikka t3x .

What's good for factory and what's good for reloading are set against different scales

Can not find any retumbo or h1000 anywhere .

In addition to Powder Valley, a quick search yielded:

Hodgdon H1000 Smokeless Powder 1 Lb

Hodgdon H1000 Smokeless Powder 1 Lb by HODGDON , IMR & WINCHESTERH1000™ This very slow burning Extreme Extruded stick powder is perfect for highly overbored magnums like the 7mm Remington Magnum, 7mm STW and the 30-378 Weatherby. In addition, with heavy bullets, H1000 gives top velocity and...

www.midsouthshooterssupply.com

Hodgdon H1000 Powder

This extruded powder is a member of Hodgdon's Extreme series of powder with slow-burning characteristics. SCHEELS

www.scheels.com

Also, Retumbo @ Midway
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1009211569?pid=211569

I did get some ram shot magnum to play with , now I just need to find magnum primers. I ordered 100 pieces of lapua brass as well

Order more brass

 

[WasNH4X]

Crazy this brass is considered” trash” to most , as I’ve found it to be some of the most accurate factory ammo for my 300. Win mag , as well as my tikka t3x .

My tikka 6.5cm shoots 1/2 moa, with federal terminal ascent 130s . My bergara was a 3/4 rifle with it as well .

My 300wm shot 3/4 moa with 200 grain terminal ascent as well .

Can not find any retumbo or h1000 anywhere .

I did get some ram shot magnum to play with , now I just need to find magnum primers. I ordered 100 pieces of lapua brass as well

More thoughts : I'd use the shot Fed. brass to "learn" with, but keep in mind ,Lapua brass loads will ,more than likely ,take less powder than Fed to reach same fps.
Order H1000 shown above right now......prices will only increase and if Retumbo ever become available ,stock up....IMO a better suited powder for the 210 grain + bullets.
Don't discount ELDM Bullets, the ones I've shot group well.( 22 and 6mm)
If one is gonna shoot the 4350 powder, don't over look IMR .
Above advice from others are spot on .
As stated, buy a H.S. comparator ,good dial cal. and measure fired H.S. minus primer to size brass.....ignore die instructions .Some will argue but ,it's not necessary to " cam over " against the shell holder to achieve consistent shoulder bump. "Dwell time" is your friend , same count , 5 to 10 ,whatever works.
K+M Tools inside neck de burring tool is money well spent....it's consistent,if operator is ,and that's what we strive for when handloading.
As others here, I've been in this rabbit hole a long time (started in1977) have a pretty good handle on what works,for me ,but always learning the more I do.

 

[Dennis5374]

If you chrono it you'll see the large swing in pressure it exhibits and it will struggle at distance but 100/ 200 yards is not far enough for it to be an issue - but absolutely will at distance.

h1000 is in stock now and will be the last powder you ever need for a magnum - https://www.powdervalley.com/produc...=ProductFeed&utm_campaign=Branding&utm_id=PVI

I haven’t chrono’d any of the federal , but in my rpr 338 lm , we were shooting just under 1000 yards “926 to be exact “ and when chrono’d ,with hornady match ammo we saw as much as 50 fps swings . I understand fully what you mean in that aspect - in comparison , my buddy was shooting hand loads in 37xc and saw very little variance compared to my 7 dollar a round hornaday ammo.

I’ll have to order some of the h1000 . I’m about to pick up some primers and bullets locally . I’ll be able to play with the h1000 and rs magnum , and see what the rifle likes .

 

[ChrisF308]

I would also look at Petersen brass the Long version , also 208gr Hornady , and load long OAL , I am using 3.650 long , and H1000 , Fed mag

 

[Dennis5374]

I would also look at Petersen brass the Long version , also 208gr Hornady , and load long OAL , I am using 3.650 long , and H1000 , Fed mag

I found some 212 eld -x in stock I thought about grabbing. .

Also an assortment of bergers and nosler . I’ve mainly been reading in my spare time for the last 5 days . A lot of info to take into account !

 

[Maurygold]

I found some 212 eld -x in stock I thought about grabbing. .

Also an assortment of bergers and nosler . I’ve mainly been reading in my spare time for the last 5 days . A lot of info to take into account !

215 Berger hybrid is the way.

 

[OkieMike]

Crazy this brass is considered” trash” to most , as I’ve found it to be some of the most accurate factory ammo for my 300. Win mag , as well as my tikka t3x .

My tikka 6.5cm shoots 1/2 moa, with federal terminal ascent 130s . My bergara was a 3/4 rifle with it as well .

My 300wm shot 3/4 moa with 200 grain terminal ascent as well .

Can not find any retumbo or h1000 anywhere .

I did get some ram shot magnum to play with , now I just need to find magnum primers. I ordered 100 pieces of lapua brass as well

Federal brass can make some very accurate ammo... I know, because I started with it too.

The problem is that it won't do it very many times.

You'll get 3, maybe 4, reloading cycles out of it. Then on a subsequent reloading you'll notice that the primers fit into the pockets a lot easier than they used to. Then you get to toss the brass because it's DONE... And all the powder, primers, and bullets you used to build loads for that brass are wasted... Because you have to start over again with new brass.

Federal brass is notorious for this.

If you don't want to toss it, use several pieces of it to build a hunting load. If you find a good hunting load, then load the rest with that. Unless you're sniping prairie dogs then 50-60 rounds of hunting ammo will last a while before you have to toss it for loose primer pockets.

Lapua is about your best bet. More expensive on the front end. But if you take care of it and don't shoot "hot rod" loads you will likely get double digit reloads out of it... Which actually makes it cheaper to shoot over the life of the brass.

If store shelves/online retailers were flush with components then squeezing the longest life out of components wouldn't be as big of a deal right now... But things are hard to get. And if your brass craps out on you it may take several months to replace it. So it makes sense to get the stuff that will last until it becomes available again.

That's the reason for the advice to find higher quality brass.

Mike

 

[Thump_rrr]

Order more brass

He’s better off ordering an annealer.
You can go quite far with 100 pieces of brass if you don’t stretch the primer pockets or over work the brass.

I had 23 firings on 200 pieces of Lapua 308 brass. I retired the brass when I swapped barrels.

I have 338 Lapua brass (Lapua) with 10 firings of 90gr of H1000.

 

[Maurygold]

He’s better off ordering an annealer.
You can go quite far with 100 pieces of brass if you don’t stretch the primer pockets or over work the brass.

I had 23 firings on 200 pieces of Lapua 308 brass. I retired the brass when I swapped barrels.

I have 338 Lapua brass (Lapua) with 10 firings of 90gr of H1000.

The only annnealer that might work is the amp. And for $1400 he would need to shoot several barrels every single year for multiple years to offset buying a little more brass. Plus the 338 isn’t getting more than 1500 rounds down before barrel change and brass needs to go.

 

[Punkur67]

I run adg brass, 77.1 grains of H1000, 215 berger hybrids, and FGMM primers and run at 2970fps

 

[Thump_rrr]

The only annnealer that might work is the amp. And for $1400 he would need to shoot several barrels every single year for multiple years to offset buying a little more brass. Plus the 338 isn’t getting more than 1500 rounds down before barrel change and brass needs to go.

I will disagree with you on the AMP being the only annealer that works.
Brass manufacturers were using flame annealing for decades before induction annealing came into popularity.
I don't want this thread to go down the same path as the last one that devolved and was locked so I will end it at that.

 

[Aftermath]

Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment

Our patented resizing die can reload Winchester, Remington and Weatherby belted magnums up to 20 times, instead of just 2 or 3 times and the top of the die is a chamber width gauge.

www.larrywillis.com

Use it about every 3rd or 4th reload.

 

[45-90]

The chasis is what I used on a new Rem 700 300 WM ADL on sale for $540, and $375 for the chasis, on sale, plus $80 for the 3.715" detachable mag. Get the long mag to improve performance like 230 SMK at 2962 fps for LR endeavors.
Also threaded the barrel in the lathe and installed a muzzle brake.
It will put 3 or 4 in the same hole and is a 5 shot 1/2" shooter, as the example shows. Totally all cheap factory Remington 700, which I actually bought only for the action.
Then decided I should shoot it first as it is, a 300 WM.

 

[Maurygold]

I will disagree with you on the AMP being the only annealer that works.
Brass manufacturers were using flame annealing for decades before induction annealing came into popularity.
I don't want this thread to go down the same path as the last one that devolved and was locked so I will end it at that.
View attachment 8378989

I wonder if annealing would help my 6x fired lapua shooting under 5sd?

 

[misser]

i only have the one 300win a 26'' encore it likes reloader 22 and 180 gr

 

[45-90]

He’s better off ordering an annealer.
You can go quite far with 100 pieces of brass if you don’t stretch the primer pockets or over work the brass.

I had 23 firings on 200 pieces of Lapua 308 brass. I retired the brass when I swapped barrels.

I have 338 Lapua brass (Lapua) with 10 firings of 90gr of H1000.

I fired Lapua 308 brass 40 times and never annealed it once.
The neck begins to spring back so I just made a .001" smaller bushing, on the lathe for free, and keep shooting.
These were max load charges, on the cases, after 40 reloads, the brass keeps stretching, and needs trimming, cycles, you will see the headspace seperatetion similar to the magnum cases described., then discard the cases it can be seem and felt with a hook tool internally down at the head there is a distinct bump in the case where it should be smooth.
I have shot belted magnums for many years, never annealed them, and never had a problem with them, just use the shoulder to headspace after the first firing. No special tools needed.
Even fired a too hot load with a QL recommended powder, with a 200 gr SMK st 3280 fps, didn't blow the primer but expanded the pocket too much, a stiff bolt lift, but the whole case came out no seperation problem.

I form lots of wildcats and anneal them because of all the brass movement on some. A flame and a homemade holder made in the lathe, the brass turned in the lathe with a touch flame to the neck/shoulder...works great. No expensive annealer needed ...at all.
Some test were done and even way over annealed the brass, but they all shot about the same group size, with the over annealed slightly better...LOL. Annealing brass is not a high tech endeavor .
Spend your money on whatever...don't care, or anneal on ever firing, but I have better things to do...time consuming and brass isn't that expensive for many calibers.

I, only anneal when case forming, in most cases. And it will help with shoulder spring back especially in forming cases, but it's better, or at least add, turning the complete neck and shoulder back in the lathe, with the exact angle, example 308, or 30-06 to 8.6 Blackout, for a perfect smooth fit in the chamber. Depending on brass condition from manufacturer, annealing on the first step will collapse the case. A special home built die is made the first step can be done with a dry case, but a light spray is used here, shoulders come out very nice.
Or sometimes basic cases come in all hard from Starline and requires annealing in every step... so for me it depends...but I don't use it on already factory formed cases for the caliber I'm shooting.

 

[Thump_rrr]

I fired Lapua 308 brass 40 times and never annealed it once.
The neck begins to spring back so I just made a .001" smaller bushing, on the lathe for free, and keep shooting.
These were max load charges, on the cases, after 40 reloads, the brass keeps stretching, and needs trimming, cycles, you will see the headspace seperatetion similar to the magnum cases described., then discard the cases it can be seem and felt with a hook tool internally down at the head there is a distinct bump in the case where it should be smooth.
I have shot belted magnums for many years, never annealed them, and never had a problem with them, just use the shoulder to headspace after the first firing. No special tools needed.
Even fired a too hot load with a QL recommended powder, with a 200 gr SMK st 3280 fps, didn't blow the primer but expanded the pocket too much, a stiff bolt lift, but the whole case came out no seperation problem.

I form lots of wildcats and anneal them because of all the brass movement on some. A flame and a homemade holder made in the lathe, the brass turned in the lathe with a touch flame to the neck/shoulder...works great. No expensive annealer needed ...at all.
Some test were done and even way over annealed the brass, but they all shot about the same group size, with the over annealed slightly better...LOL. Annealing brass is not a high tech endeavor .
Spend your money on whatever...don't care, or anneal on ever firing, but I have better things to do...time consuming and brass isn't that expensive for many calibers.

I, only anneal when case forming, in most cases. And it will help with shoulder spring back especially in forming cases, but it's better, or at least add, turning the complete neck and shoulder back in the lathe, with the exact angle, example 308, or 30-06 to 8.6 Blackout, for a perfect smooth fit in the chamber. Depending on brass condition from manufacturer, annealing on the first step will collapse the case. A special home built die is made the first step can be done with a dry case, but a light spray is used here, shoulders come out very nice.
Or sometimes basic cases come in all hard from Starline and requires annealing in every step... so for me it depends...but I don't use it on already factory formed cases for the caliber I'm shooting.

No expensive annealer needed says the man with a lathe. LOL

 

[Thump_rrr]

I wonder if annealing would help my 6x fired lapua shooting under 5sd?

View attachment 8379245

Perhaps it would.
I want to make it very clear that I am not implying that annealing affects E.S. or S.D. numbers.
I was suggesting that case life may be extended by annealing.
We can both play these games.
These are some of the LabRadar logs from my 6.5CM load development but with actual data.

From my 338 Lapua load development
I don’t have the logs for these.

 

[45-90]

No expensive annealer needed says the man with a lathe. LOL

I need a lathe, ...I have 2, ...plus a Bridgeport milling machine, for my hobbies and chambering my own rifles.
I don't need an expensive case annealer.

 

[Thump_rrr]

I need a lathe, ...I have 2, ...plus a Bridgeport milling machine, for my hobbies and chambering my own rifles.
I don't need an expensive case annealer.

There are budget friendly annealers out there.
https://www.uglyreloadingusa.com/pr...stock-free-shipping-lower-48-of-the-usa-copy/

 

[Maurygold]

Perhaps it would.
I want to make it very clear that I am not implying that annealing affects E.S. or S.D. numbers.
I was suggesting that case life may be extended by annealing.
We can both play these games.
These are some of the LabRadar logs from my 6.5CM load development but with actual data.
View attachment 8379292
View attachment 8379289
View attachment 8379288
From my 338 Lapua load development
I don’t have the logs for these.
View attachment 8379297
View attachment 8379298
View attachment 8379299

Perhaps it would.
I want to make it very clear that I am not implying that annealing affects E.S. or S.D. numbers.
I was suggesting that case life may be extended by annealing.
We can both play these games.
These are some of the LabRadar logs from my 6.5CM load development but with actual data.
View attachment 8379292
View attachment 8379289
View attachment 8379288
From my 338 Lapua load development
I don’t have the logs for these.
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3 shot groups don’t mean anything but good try. 2” groups at 200 yards isn’t precision even in a 338.

I have no idea why you’re recommending an annealer to a novice reloader. They can spend their time on real things that make an actual difference. Not playing with flames with no proof of helping them except maybe extending brass life (which only experienced reloader really need due to volume)

 

[45-90]

There are budget friendly annealers out there.
https://www.uglyreloadingusa.com/pr...stock-free-shipping-lower-48-of-the-usa-copy/

Mine is free, made from a piece of scrap round stock, put in Lathe collet, turn on power, turn on gas flame, anneal, pull out insert new case, repeat.

 

[Thump_rrr]

Mine is free, made from a piece of scrap round stock, put in Lathe collet, turn on power, turn on gas flame, anneal, pull out insert new case, repeat.

There is a cost to a lathe.

 

[Thump_rrr]

3 shot groups don’t mean anything but good try. 2” groups at 200 yards isn’t precision even in a 338.

I have no idea why you’re recommending an annealer to a novice reloader. They can spend their time on real things that make an actual difference. Not playing with flames with no proof of helping them except maybe extending brass life (which only experienced reloader really need due to volume)

Where do you see 2” groups at 200 other than the factory Lapua ammo?
4/7 groups are sub 1/2 moa.
6/7 are sub moa.
This is load development don’t forget.

 

[45-90]

There is a cost to a lathe.

Absolutely, but I already spent at least hundred thousand on manual machine tools, all the tooling, cutting tools, and measuring tools. Spent 35 yrs as a machinist, manual and CNC.
Probably a quarter million invested over 35 yrs. 4 large rollaway tool boxes, and cabinets full of indexers, rotary table, various chucks, etc, and support tools, air compressor, welding, various grinders and diamond grinder for carbide, and 3 phase power.
An instock metals rack, for making anything I desire.
Plus living 1 mile from the best metals recycling yard, in a town full of machine shops and manufacturing in its day the rare metals capitol of the world.
24 yrs refuleing nuclear reactors, and 15 yrs on the N reactor making 70% of the weapons grade material for nuclear bombs, during the cold war, plus cluster bomb material, missile cones, nuclear submarine components.
Personally invented the end cap design for pulling spent fuel rods from the reactor cores, resulting in a huge Westinghouse nuclear fuels order for the company.
Then back to college for CNC programing, and onto robotics and computers when the nuclear industry collapsed.
So using all those tools cost no further investment, as they are all paid for, over a lifetime, might as well continue using them.

 

[Thump_rrr]

Absolutely, but I already spent at least hundred thousand on manual machine tools, all the tooling, cutting tools, and measuring tools. Spent 35 yrs as a machinist, manual and CNC.
Probably a quarter million invested over 35 yrs. 4 large rollaway tool boxes, and cabinets full of indexers, rotary table, various chucks, etc, and support tools, air compressor, welding, various grinders and diamond grinder for carbide, and 3 phase power.
An instock metals rack, for making anything I desire.
Plus living 1 mile from the best metals recycling yard, in a town full of machine shops and manufacturing in its day the rare metals capitol of the world.
24 yrs refuleing nuclear reactors, and 15 yrs on the N reactor making 70% of the weapons grade material for nuclear bombs, during the cold war, plus cluster bomb material, missile cones, nuclear submarine components.
Personally invented the end cap design for pulling spent fuel rods from the reactor cores, resulting in a huge Westinghouse nuclear fuels order for the company.
Then back to college for CNC programing, and onto robotics and computers when the nuclear industry collapsed.
So using all those tools cost no further investment, as they are all paid for, over a lifetime, might as well continue using them.

It is understandable when it is your trade.
I was obviously unaware to that fact.