• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

New with a RPR

Smoov82

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 5, 2018
118
39
Villa Grove IL
RPR GEN 2 6.5 Creedmoor arrived Friday. It’s been a rainy mess for about a week. So going to wait for the 60° weather this week to dry out and hit the range Wednesday. I still need to bore site and zero scope. Figured I’d just pull bolt out and look down bore at 25 yards to get in ball park then jump out to 100 yards.

New to precision rifles. Question I have is I’d like to zero at 100 yards so would I track first with maybe 3 shot group per corner of the box to help dial the scope in? Just stick to center of target? What are a few possibilities to zero in scope at 100 yards?

Thanks!


D6FF4EB9-FC2D-4469-8E84-EB04B6D78E63.jpeg
 
Zeroing should only take a few shots and will always start with the center of the target!

Shooting a "box" only tests if your scope returns to the zero point that you've setup.

Ignore the 300 yard point blank zero garbage starting at about 2:00... other wise this video shows the process in the most succinct manor I've seen.
 
RPR GEN 2 6.5 Creedmoor arrived Friday. It’s been a rainy mess for about a week. So going to wait for the 60° weather this week to dry out and hit the range Wednesday. I still need to bore site and zero scope. Figured I’d just pull bolt out and look down bore at 25 yards to get in ball park then jump out to 100 yards.

New to precision rifles. Question I have is I’d like to zero at 100 yards so would I track first with maybe 3 shot group per corner of the box to help dial the scope in? Just stick to center of target? What are a few possibilities to zero in scope at 100 yards?

Thanks!


View attachment 6877870

1. Boresight.
2. Confirm you’re on paper.
3. Fire one shot at aiming point.
4. Measure distance from aiming point with reticle.
5. Make appropriate adjustments.
6. Shoot five shots at aiming point.
7. Measure distance from center of group using reticle.
8. Make appropriate adjustments. Shouldn’t take much.
9. Shoot group verifying zero.
10. Done.
 
1. Boresight.
2. Confirm you’re on paper.
3. Fire one shot at aiming point.
4. Measure distance from aiming point with reticle.
5. Make appropriate adjustments.
6. Shoot five shots at aiming point.
7. Measure distance from center of group using reticle.
8. Make appropriate adjustments. Shouldn’t take much.
9. Shoot group verifying zero.
10. Done.

I skip the measuring step(4) and just make the appropriate adjustment by turning the turrets till the reticle moves from the center of target to center of bullet hole.

Both accomplish the same thing, just different ways to skin the cat.
 
I skip the measuring step(4) and just make the appropriate adjustment by turning the turrets till the reticle moves from the center of target to center of bullet hole.

Both accomplish the same thing, just different ways to skin the cat.

Why the hell would you skip measuring with the reticle? That’s exactly what it’s for! How would you know what to dial without measuring?

This should be interesting.......
 
Why the hell would you skip measuring with the reticle? That’s exactly what it’s for! How would you know what to dial without measuring?

This should be interesting.......

You just look through the scope and move it from your point of aim to your point of impact. Really easy to get a zero like that.
 
Aaaaaand you do that by measuring with the reticle..... lol

Noooooo I dont. I can but I dont. I never once look at what the demarcations on it are. You just look through it while adjusting it. Both ways work, one just involves saying 2.3 mils up and .8 right while I just turn the knob until it moves where I want. The difference is the measuring.
 
Also realize that the majority of scopes in the world dont have nice reticles with subtensions, there are plenty of duplexs in the world that dont allow for your method.

I completely understand that, but we are talking in a group that 99.9% of us use a reticle with subtentions, it is literally what the reticle and turrets are made for. Is that not what is preached on here every day is proper usage of equipment? I mean, I guess do whatever you want, it’s your stuff, And to the guy that is shooting a duplex? Most of the time when you sight in a gun It’s is on gridded paper or the guy will use his tactical thumb to measure what adjustments need inputted into the Turrets. So what I’m getting at is you are measuring in one form or another,even with a plane crosshair reticle. You don’t start blindly turning knobs hoping that by chance the crosshairs end up where you want. A form of measurement happens. All I was saying is that is exactly what the subtensions are for.
 
Last edited:
You don’t start blindly turning knobs hoping that by chance the crosshairs end up where you want.

You are 100% correct on that though I dont think you realize it. You look through and watch it.

Im not trying to beat a dead horse and get the thread off track but when you ask some guy
Why the hell would you skip measuring with the reticle? That’s exactly what it’s for! How would you know what to dial without measuring?
maybe just read the explanation and try to sort out what actually being said. You dont have to do long division if you can just do it in your head and you dont have to measure to get a zero when you can just look and do it. If you need to measure, great.

And as goosed said to end his post that you geeked on
Both accomplish the same thing, just different ways to skin the cat.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
I get it, much to do about nothing. I go on “autistic fits” once in a while because I get bored. Lol. Just ignore me and I’ll go back to watching WORLD STAR ghetto fitghts on the interwebz while drinking Rock Stars....
?
 
Two different techniques to accomplish the same thing. You can fire a group and measure the distance of the group to the POA (point of aim) with a reticle with subtensions and dial appropriately to zero. (if using a SFP scope make sure you are on max power or the power the reticle is rated for, and make sure you dial the correct direction. Ask me how I know).

If I am understanding correctly the method Spife is discussing it involves ensuring you have the rifle locked into a solid position so it does not move at all like on a lead sled. With that technique you aim at the center target, fire a group and adjust your dials to move the reticle from the POA to the POI (point of impact) while looking thru the scope. You can do this as long as the rifle is stable and not moving around on you as you adjust the elevation and windage.

Regardless of technique, then shoot to confirm zero and cover your knobs if capped or set your exposed turrets to zero and set zero stop. refer to the manual on how to do so since so many scopes all have their own procedures on setting the turrets to zero.
 
Last edited:
I skip the measuring step(4) and just make the appropriate adjustment by turning the turrets till the reticle moves from the center of target to center of bullet hole.

Both accomplish the same thing, just different ways to skin the cat.

I understand what you’re saying and that will get you close, but the problem I have is holding the rifle perfectly still as I’m making the adjustment. As soon as you start turning those turrets your reference is lost and if there is any movement in the rifle while you are guiding the crosshairs to the bullet hole, you are inducing a little error. I just find it easier to measure with the reticle and make the appropriate adjustments.

John
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
I understand what you’re saying and that will get you close, but the problem I have is holding the rifle perfectly still as I’m making the adjustment. As soon as you start turning those turrets your reference is lost and if there is any movement in the rifle while you are guiding the crosshairs to the bullet hole, you are inducing a little error. I just find it easier to measure with the reticle and make the appropriate adjustments.

John

I concur. I tend to do the watch thru the scope and turn the dials technique if I am using a duplex reticle and it gets damn close, but any wiggle throws it off a little bit and usually requires an additional round of shooting to dial it in. I prefer to measure with a reticle and dial in appropriately, shoot to confirm, and then set the zero on the turrets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bender
Wow... just wow... This isn't rocket science guys!

You measure your POA vs POI to the hair width with your fancy reticle. That's great, but so what?

Even if you're a superstar 1/16 of an moa shooter allday & everday. Shooting a RPR that's what, another 1/2 moa roughly?

If you can't hold the rifle still enough with a bipod, rear bag and one hand hand on the grip while the other hand turns the scope turrets to stay within that 1/2 moa (at best) of unknown error zone we have after a single shot...

Maybe, just maybe, it might be a good time to rebuild your shooting position to something more stable rather than start measuring crap with your reticle.

That's just my half assed opinion though... do whatever floats your boat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: spife7980