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Gunsmithing newby+bedding+VBull+headspacing= QUESTIONS!

916dude!

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 4, 2009
159
1
39
Sacramento,CA
I bought a savage !0FP off another hide member and i think it must have been his learning project or something. It looked like a pretty good on line and was $900 and i don't think it was too bad of a deal, but it need a little work to be brought up to snuff.

The rifle needs to be re-bedded. I think the original owner tried to do it and the barrel sits visibly crooked in the stock! Ive only taken it to the range once and the first round followed by at least a few more jammed and i could barely open my bolt and had to use a cleaning rod to knock the cases out! Anyway, I'm determined to make it at least a 1 moa gun. I also wonder if the head spacing has been messed with.

Now for the questions! Ive been reading a bunch of threads on here about bedding and it (SEEMS TO ME) Devcon is the bedding material of choice. I have a B&C metalist stock. I am going to inlet the stock and put a VBull DBM set up in it.

1-As for the Devcon... there is steel, aluminum, and titanium. I am assuming the steel is the way to go? and why or why not?

2-I am going to get a Savage barrel wrench and I need to get a head space gauge so i can check and adjust the head spacing if it is incorrect. What head space gauge should I get?

3-There is a flash hider on the rifle and it is ugly as sin.... and ILEGAL IN CA! hahaha I don't have a flat wrench to fit it and screw it off. I could care less about it though, so I wouldn't mind using a pare of channel locks to get it. Which way do I thread it off or how do I figure out? And do I need to put the action in some kind of vice to start crankn' on it?

4-Do you Master Hiders have any other advice, orders, or whatever else to tell me?
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

Don't really need the expense of the titanium...steel is good enough. Get the steel,and be done with it. No need to worry about anything else.

For your other questions, lefty loosey, righty tighty...if you don't feel comfortable taking it off, take it to a gunsmith.

Never owned a Savage, so no help there....check brownells.com or midwayusa.com
 
Re: newby+bedding+VBull+headspacing= QUESTIONS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

3-There is a flash hider on the rifle and it is ugly as sin.... and <span style="font-weight: bold">ELEGAL IN CA</span>! hahaha I don't have a flat wrench to fit it and screw it off. I could care less about it though, so I wouldn't mind using a pare of channel locks to get it. Which way do I thread it off or how do I figure out? And do I need to put the action in some kind of vice to start crankn' on it?

</div></div>

Just pulling your chain....I think you meant illegal?
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

thanks for the help! i was just on midway looking at devcon. should i use liquid steel compound or putty? thanks for the input jester8!
 
Re: newby+bedding+VBull+headspacing= QUESTIONS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
2-I am going to get a Savage barrel wrench and I need to get a head space gauge so i can check and adjust the head spacing if it is incorrect. What head space gauge should I get?</div></div>

Whatever cartridge the rifle is chambered in.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
3-There is a flash hider on the rifle and it is ugly as sin.... and ELEGAL IN CA! hahaha </div></div>

Didn't know flash hiders were illegal on bolt rifles.
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

I favor the aluminum Devcon. But mainly because I've used a truckload of it in the shops I've worked in. It's a good material. But other metal fillers may be as well. I have very little experience with the others. BE SURE you fill in the action and apply PLENTY of mold release and masking tape when you bed. Or you'll have a "glue in". You can get them loose. But it's a bit of a pain.

I always order the GO & NO/GO guages when I order the chamber reamer. Order them both at the same time from the same manufacturer. There are several places to get good reamers & guages. I do business with a couple. But if I post something here, I'm afraid I'll get in trouble.

Is it a flash hider or recoil compensator? Some of both are permanently attached. Mine have all been screw on / off with right hand threads. I leave mine loose enough to "pop" loose with a smart tap on a rod through two of the holes. You may be able to spot it if it has been pinned by looking at the front 2 to 4" with a magnifying glass real carefully. But if it was done right, it'll be difficult at best to locate. I've never known someone to weld it on. But I wouldn't bet against it.

You need a barrel vise and a receiver wrench. Call Sinclair's and Brownell's and get catalogs on the way if you are serious.
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

hmmmm didn't know that! still would like to take it off though. it does look lame. what should i do with the threads in my barrel after i take it off?
Do you recommend and specific brand of head spacer? i saw some on brownell's that were by cartridge then some that were by cartridge and thousands of and inch(match grades) what do you suggest?
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Do you recommend and specific brand of head spacer? i saw some on brownell's that were by cartridge then some that were by cartridge and thousands of and inch(match grades) what do you suggest? </div></div>

Do you understand what a headspace gauge does? If so, I'm thinking that you probably wouldn't have as many questions.

I'd suggest taking it to a smith to be sure everything is done correctly.
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brain</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Do you recommend and specific brand of head spacer? i saw some on brownell's that were by cartridge then some that were by cartridge and thousands of and inch(match grades) what do you suggest? </div></div>

Do you understand what a headspace gauge does? If so, I'm thinking that you probably wouldn't have as many questions.

I'd suggest taking it to a smith to be sure everything is done correctly. </div></div>
i think i understand what it does, but maybe i don't. (remember im a newby please) doesnt it make sure the spacing between your barrel and your action are correnct?
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

The headspace gauge measures the distance between the bolt face and the shoulder (or belt shoulder if a belted mag) of the chamber.

I understand you're new to this which is why I asked the question. Wouldn't want you to screw anything up, especially yourself. Ambition and interest can get things messed up in a big hurry if you don't fully understand how everything functions.

I still recommend taking it to a competent smith in your area to have them check it. Probably save you some coin and grief in the process.
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

Did the rounds that stuck in the chamber go in easily? If so it sounds like a pressure issue, not headspace. If the bolt was hard to close and they were factory ammunition, then it is likely headspace.
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did the rounds that stuck in the chamber go in easily? If so it sounds like a pressure issue, not headspace. If the bolt was hard to close and they were factory ammunition, then it is likely headspace.

</div></div>
the rounds that jammed were NATO 308. Wiether they are loaded hotter than normal or not I don't know. I quickly switched to some wolf that was on hand and it kinda sorta worked ok. No jams, but about 6-8 rounds that didn't fire in about 40. I think that may have just been the cheap wolf ammo
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

Honestly I can't remember if it chambered hard or not.... It's been about 5 months since I've been bale to shoot it. I've been pretty busy with my lady and my dogs an TONS of OT at work. Things are finally slowing down so I have tine to do things. I would like to get a head space gauge so I can check my rifle and also so I can learn and hopefully know what I'm doing... KEY WORD LEARN! LOL But seriously learn
 
Re: newby+bedding+aftermarket DBM= QUESTIONS!

1) Devcon Steel will do the job nicely.

2) Get a Savage action wrench for it if you don't already have one. They're 25 bucks. You don't need a headspace gauge to set the headspace on it, I set it on my switch barrel Sav 12 without one every time and it shoots just fine.

The directions that come with the action wrench tell you how to do it. It's someone wordy to describe and at 2am I don't really feel like writing it all out since you need the wrench anyway

3)Double check that you are required to take the flash hider off, if you are taking off the barrel and putting another one one, then what's the concern. Sell it to someone else who might want it if it's not boogered up. If you leave it on there and shoot the rifle with the OEM barrel I have a feeling you'll do OK with it once the headspace is properly set.

Am I incorrect in thinking that the current barrel is something that wasn't put on there by Savage?

4) The accutriggers adjust down pretty nicely, they can go lighter I'm told if you want to change out the springs in them. I wouldn't suggest it for now, but I would suggest cleaning it out thoroughly with brake cleaner and then regreasing or oiling it lightly so that it's not going to have some kind of shit in there.

A good cleaning and a little moly grease and the 12 trigger I have breaks at 2lbs, plenty for a field gun.