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Rifle Scopes Night Force: Be Honest

I really wish the manufacturers would leave the numbers off the parallax dial. LOL No dial is going to match up the lens to the magnification at every yardage and magnification level. I'm just jazzed when the parallax is easy to set and not like a faucet that goes from 55F. to 110F. with an 1/8th turn!
 
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Literally no manufacturers markings line up and most are labeled in meters. You should be adjusting it while looking thru the scope. So who cares what the knob says?
In general I agree with you. But sometimes when hunting it’s nice to preset the parallax knob to your expected shooting distance. Like when walking through the forest hunting squirrels or something.

I find it a little weird the numbers are off a bunch in the Atacrs, though. My Vortexes (razors, pst II’s) and S&B are near-enough the money. And my NX8 just has dashes, which sort of sucks a little.
 
In general I agree with you. But sometimes when hunting it’s nice to preset the parallax knob to your expected shooting distance. Like when walking through the forest hunting squirrels or something.

I find it a little weird the numbers are off a bunch in the Atacrs, though. My Vortexes (razors, pst II’s) and S&B are near-enough the money. And my NX8 just has dashes, which sort of sucks a little.
Expected shooting distance and magnification. Change either of those two and you'll have parallax. I get your point. When I go bust canyons for hogs I know shit will go down close, so the mag level and parallax gets set for the middle of where I can expect to shoot.
 
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Expected shooting distance and magnification. Change either of those two and you'll have parallax. I get your point. When I go bust canyons for hogs I know shit will go down close, so the mag level and parallax gets set for the middle of where I can expect to shoot.
Yeah, forgot to add in the magnification. I preset mag/parallax and go walking. It’d be cool for a scope manufacturer to have a user-serviceable screw or something so people could fine-tune the numbers on the knob. Not a huge deal, but nice.

Although it’s way nicer to just have the numbers close to reality, either in yds or meters.
 
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Yeah, forgot to add in the magnification. I preset mag/parallax and go walking. It’d be cool for a scope manufacturer to have a user-serviceable screw or something so people could fine-tune the numbers on the knob. Not a huge deal, but nice.

Although it’s way nicer to just have the numbers close to reality, either in yds or meters.
I’ve wondered for years why nobody has offered an adjustable parallax knob. It would make sense.
 
I’ve wondered for years why nobody has offered an adjustable parallax knob. It would make sense.

May seem cheap to some but for decades we’ve just wrapped the parallax knob with a lighter colored (gray or light green) electric tape and marked the exact parallax with sharpie. Lasts years and cost like $1. Just have to be careful to not tape over the illumination knob.

We did the same for different rounds on the elevation turret before decent reticles started showing up or if we didn’t want to buy a Kenton replacement.

The old NXS turrets lend themselves well to this. Never tried it in a HS turret.
 
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Well literally my Kahles and Burris markings line up in the proper ranges. And my ATACR F1 is sitting around the 60 mark to clear up at 100, so… I’d say that’s pretty far off. And the ATACR F1 that I have has pretty nice turrets. And I’m not a NF fanboy either, just pointing out my experiences.
Same here. All my Burris Optics line up.
 
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I would say the 4-20 and 7-35 are the only two atacr scopes worth buying. They seem to have notably better glass than the rest of the ATACR lineup, why? Idk but if have observed it looking through them multiple times. I have a 5-25 and a 4-20, and the difference is obvious. Granted ones 4 years old and the other is brand new. However a few older 7-35s I've been behind, they still outshine my 5-25.
 
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May seem cheap to some but for decades we’ve just wrapped the parallax knob with a lighter colored (gray or light green) electric tape and marked the exact parallax with sharpie. Lasts years and cost like $1. Just have to be careful to not tape over the illumination knob.

We did the same for different rounds on the elevation turret before decent reticles started showing up or if we didn’t want to buy a Kenton replacement.

The old NXS turrets lend themselves well to this. Never tried it in a HS turret.
Yeah, I used to have to write my own sight tapes when I shot ASA Pro-Ams and IBO 3D archery tournaments years ago. 👍🏼
 
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It's impossible for parallax knob markings to be accurate 100% of the time, since parallax can be affected by environmental factors like temperature. Imagine how much easier ranging would be if you could just use your parallax knob. It's not that simple.
 
It's impossible for parallax knob markings to be accurate 100% of the time, since parallax can be affected by environmental factors like temperature. Imagine how much easier ranging would be if you could just use your parallax knob. It's not that simple.
I'm trying like hell to get this point across to guys! But I will let them dream. I am no dream killer! :LOL:
 
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I really wish the manufacturers would leave the numbers off the parallax dial. LOL No dial is going to match up the lens to the magnification at every yardage and magnification level. I'm just jazzed when the parallax is easy to set and not like a faucet that goes from 55F. to 110F. with an 1/8th turn!
Manufacturers should try to do their best at labeling the side focus dials to proper calibration and have set screws or throw lever style clamp to be able to free spin and rotate the parallax dial to set it to their own eyes.
 
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I would say the 4-20 and 7-35 are the only two atacr scopes worth buying. They seem to have notably better glass than the rest of the ATACR lineup, why? Idk but if have observed it looking through them multiple times. I have a 5-25 and a 4-20, and the difference is obvious. Granted ones 4 years old and the other is brand new. However a few older 7-35s I've been behind, they still outshine my 5-25.
The 4-16 should be in the category with the 7-35. But for it’s differently designed purpose. To me the 4-16 is a perfectly rounded scope with great glass and no tunneling. For the category they compete in I think they compete very well
 
This forum has a severe fetish for 'glass'. You guys wax long over optical qualities like a bunch of beard twirling hipsters at a brewery sampling craft beer. As if any optic costing over 1000usd and made in the last 5 years has such bad optical quality that it will not allow you see your target at any reasonable and realistic distance.


This is just like photography in terms of cost of glass and who buys them. I know a guy w/an $8000.00 Hasselblad X2D 100 w/a $5000.00 lens on it that could probably be outshot by Stevie Wonder. Does he care, no. Can he afford it, yes. Does he buy expensive cameras like candy, yes.

I've had a severe fetish for glass since I was about 12, which grew into a career as a photographer where I bought the Nikon and Zeiss glass I dreamed about, which grew into using the gear as a business.


We used to love it when doctors and lawyers who thought that because they were smart at what they did, didn't believe that there was a steep learning curve to photography/a hill you have to climb before you can buy a Hasselblad and start doing good work.

After they're disappointed in the results they got from a 5 grand camera, we then bought the camera for 2 grand less, almost unused.

That's the best thing about deep pockets buying cameras they can't exploit to their fullest potential, which is using them 5-6 times, putting it in a closet to attract dust, and selling to a deserving up and coming shooter who can scrape together the money to get a camera he can get to "sing".



I go down to Orange County Camera, camera store for the Orange County rich folks, and was having a conversation w/the owner who was telling me about this guy who'd bought and sold back to him the same $17,000 Leica 7 times over a period of about 2 years.

The owner told me he's made so much money off this one camera, he won't sell it to anybody else, it just sits there waiting for this same guy to show up.


So you're 100 correct, somebody who knows what they're doing and can't afford the more expensive gear anway, can buy a $1000 scope, or a camera w/a $1000 lens can do dynamite work.

There are guys on here who buy these scopes like candy and that's fine too, since it ends up in them being sold for a big discount so that the guys who can really make 'em "talk" can scrape together the money to get a scope or camera gear they can use.

BTW: There's nothing wrong with being a collector, I think that's what some folks are whether they realize it or not.
 
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Was in OCcamera when a guy walked in and bought two of these on the spot.

Not one, but two.



40 grand.


Somebody gives me 40 grand, I go straight to Wells Fargo and deposit 30, and then head for the camera store (don't totally trust myself you understand).
 
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Was in OCcamera when a guy walked in and bought two of these on the spot.

Not one, but two.



40 grand.


Somebody gives me 40 grand, I go straight to Wells Fargo and deposit 30, and then head for the camera store (don't totally trust myself you understand).
Most professional wedding Photographers carry cameras in pairs, Always have a spare ready as "those Moments" never reoccur.
 
This guy wasn't a professional.

Not just wedding Photographers, as in my business or w/any professional Photographers working as a "hired hand" you have to get the shot, you have to have several back-ups, there's no such thing as "whoops".
 
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It's impossible for parallax knob markings to be accurate 100% of the time, since parallax can be affected by environmental factors like temperature. Imagine how much easier ranging would be if you could just use your parallax knob. It's not that simple.

On every S&B I’ve had which is many, if the parallax wasn’t spot on to the number it was damn close. They’re the only ones I have owned that were like that though. Jerry also tuned the parallax on a 5-25 for me that was in for grease specs on a lens and that thing was literally perfect.
 
It's impossible for parallax knob markings to be accurate 100% of the time, since parallax can be affected by environmental factors like temperature. Imagine how much easier ranging would be if you could just use your parallax knob. It's not that simple.
I’m curious how parallax can be affected by temperature change? Since the parallax, or focus knob, simply focused the image (which is dependent on target distance) and reticle onto the same plane.
 
I am a scope whore.
I currently have 6 NF NXS and have sold 7 other NF over the years. At this time I've got one C238 5.5-22, (2) C428 3.5-15 SFP, and (3) C359 3.5-15 FFP with MLR 2.0 reticles. Of the (7) I have sold (3) were SFP NXS, (3) were FFP NXS C359 F1, and one was an ATACR 5.5-25 F1.
I bought all but 2 of these 13 NF used, and lost a grand total of $259 off of what I paid on the 7 I've sold. If you don't overpay and mostly buy used, you will lose very little money on Nightforce scopes when you sell them.
The ATACR 5.5.-25 F1 is the only NF scope I was not satisfied with. I do know how to correctly set up a FFP scope and adjust the diopter. On this scope the image was out of focus when the parallax was correct, and if the image was in focus parralax was not right.
For me NF scopes have decent turrets and decent glass. Mine have all tracked ok and returned to zero.
I sent one for warranty repair (very mushy elevation turret), and they didn't care that I was not the original owner. They serviced it and returned it promptly.

I currently have (2) Kahles Gen 3 K624i with SKMR 3 reticles and have sold (2). I bought all 4 used. They have decent glass and turrets. I liked the SKMR 3 reticles. All tracked and returned to zero. The turrets were ok. When the Kahles K525i came out the prices of used K624i really dropped. I lost $350 off of what I paid for each of the two I sold.

I currently have (3) Schmidt & Bender 5-25 PMII and sold (1). I love the glass. It's clear and seems to cut through the haze on hot summer days. Steel tragets in shaded areas and at distance are much more clear than my NF or Kahles. Parallax adjustment is great, and after about 400 yards really doesn't need much adjusting. The turrets are decent, but the clicks are quite close. They track and return to zero. The only thing I find lacking are reticles. I have Gen II XR reticles and they are pretty thin under 12 power. The Gen II XR thin reticle lines make holdover stages difficult for me. I bought all of the S&B scopes used and got my money back on the one I sold.

I bought 2 used ZC527 Zero Comp with MPCT2 reticles and locking turrets this summer. To me the glass and parallax mimic my S&B. Glass is clear, cuts through haze, and targets in shaded areas and distance are very clear. Parallax works great and actually is very close to the numbers on the knob. Mine have 15 mil turrets and the clicks are close, I probably would like the new 10 mil turrets better. Mine have locking turrets. I would prefer non locking and can send them to ZC to change, but I don't know if it's a big enough issue for me to do that.

The above opinions are mine. Different people rate features/options more and less important. Decide what is important to you.
 
I’m curious how parallax can be affected by temperature change? Since the parallax, or focus knob, simply focused the image (which is dependent on target distance) and reticle onto the same plane.
Pretty sure he's talking about adjusting your parallax to help cut mirage when the ambient temps get warm and you start getting mirage off the ground down range from the heat rising.
 
I’m curious how parallax can be affected by temperature change? Since the parallax, or focus knob, simply focused the image (which is dependent on target distance) and reticle onto the same plane.
See for yourself. Get parallax-free at 50 or 100 yards. Then heat your scope up with a hair dryer (not a heat gun) until it is good and hot like it would be if the sun was shining on it for hours, then see if you're still parallax-free. And no, I was not referring to mirage down range (which is a separate and valid topic).
 
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See for yourself. Get parallax-free at 50 or 100 yards. Then heat your scope up with a hair dryer (not a heat gun) until it is good and hot like it would be if the sun was shining on it for hours, then see if you're still parallax-free. And no, I was not referring to mirage down range (which is a separate and valid topic).
Huh never heard of this 🤔

You sure it’s not mirage from the barrel/can heating up causing a issue?
 
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The ATACR 5.5.-25 F1 is the only NF scope I was not satisfied with. I do know how to correctly set up a FFP scope and adjust the diopter. On this scope the image was out of focus when the parallax was correct, and if the image was in focus parralax was not right.

I had pretty much the exact same experience but a little different. I had a 5-25 F1 that was ok out of the box, it wasn’t as forgiving on parallax as my 3.5-15’s or 4-16’s (it honestly kind of sucked) but it worked. In the first 40 rounds on a 300WM AXMC it lost focus and I couldn’t get it to refocus no matter what I did. NF told me I don’t know how to focus a diopter despite having numerous 3.5-15’s, 3x 4-16’s and one other 5-25 at the same time that I had no issue with the focus. They didn’t even want to do an RMA to look at it and ignored the fact it was focused and then lost focus.

Finally they agreed and I sent it in and they said they adjusted the parallax. After that I was able to refocus the diopter but no matter what I did or the distance I could never get a clear image and parallax free, it was one or the other. They told me again I didn’t know what I was doing and refused to get it back to look at it again. I sold every NF I owned which was many and swore them off and didn’t buy another until last year.

IMO NF’s have something up with the parallax/focus. The 3.5-15 F1’s are the only ones that never gave me any issues with focus and parallax.
 
Yes, I'm sure. But I can't explain why. I'm not an optical engineer; I just know what I've seen.
I know March talks a fair bit about how they make some scopes that resist temperature changes etc.

Here’s an example but there are others on their site. Didn’t know if that was hyperbole or not. Sounds like it isn’t?


I know that’s one of the reasons why Canon colors their big telephoto lenses white.

The other reason I think Canon does that is marketing. When Nikon was the big dog, Canon wanted to stand out against Nikon’s black lenses.

1697668512378.jpeg
 
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I stayed away from NF for a long time because of all the negativity surrounding the “hype”. I bought my first 7-35 sometime ago now with the Mil XT and I love that scope (now sits on my rimfire). I own ZCO and have own TT in the past and IN MY OPINION they’re on par with those more expensive brands. It’s a very simple scope so if you’re looking for specific features like locking turrets or fancy zero tech I would look elsewhere.

As many have said here there no need to pay full price though and I would strongly recommend you check out the Eurooptic demo section, I have bought 2 4-16 from there and they’re really just like new.
 
I stayed away from NF for a long time because of all the negativity surrounding the “hype”. I bought my first 7-35 sometime ago now with the Mil XT and I love that scope (now sits on my rimfire). I own ZCO and have own TT in the past and IN MY OPINION they’re on par with those more expensive brands. It’s a very simple scope so if you’re looking for specific features like locking turrets or fancy zero tech I would look elsewhere.

As many have said here there no need to pay full price though and I would strongly recommend you check out the Eurooptic demo section, I have bought 2 4-16 from there and they’re really just like new.
If you're going to buy a NF, the MIL-XT is the only reticle worth buying, IMO. That's what's in my 5-25x56 ATACR F1. Really love the reticle.
 
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If you're going to buy a NF, the MIL-XT is the only reticle worth buying, IMO. That's what's in my 5-25x56 ATACR F1. Really love the reticle.
Mil-C is excellent if you only dial elevation and rarely holdover.
 
This guy wasn't a professional.

Not just wedding Photographers, as in my business or w/any professional Photographers working as a "hired hand" you have to get the shot, you have to have several back-ups, there's no such thing as "whoops".
Agreed, Sorry, just used them as example. Not a pro and buying two medium format cameras, that is a bit over the top.
 
This is the way. I went from a g2 razor to a 525i and now a zco. I do miss the parallax adjustment on top.
Couldn't resist...
1697722412936.png

This forum has a severe fetish for 'glass'. You guys wax long over optical qualities like a bunch of beard twirling hipsters at a brewery sampling craft beer. As if any optic costing over 1000usd and made in the last 5 years has such bad optical quality that it will not allow you see your target at any reasonable and realistic distance.
I wrote about this a few years ago, maybe when Hide was on Scout. I called it G-O-D - Glass Obsession Disorder and it is real and needs months, maybe years of therapy and just when you think you've overcome, TT, Schmidt or ZCO come out with a new scope and it's off the wagon again :ROFLMAO: In all seriousness, I agree with you, many $1k scopes today are stellar performers that can easily get the job done, above $1k it's about nuance and detail that some shooters are willing to pay the price for, is "glass" any better at the higher price points, yes (most of the time), but how much better is something each person has to decide for themselves whether the cost is worth it.

May seem cheap to some but for decades we’ve just wrapped the parallax knob with a lighter colored (gray or light green) electric tape and marked the exact parallax with sharpie. Lasts years and cost like $1. Just have to be careful to not tape over the illumination knob.
I highly recommend Gaffers tape over electrical tape as electrical tape can leave a sticky residue that is nigh near impossible to remove after a while. Gaffers tape will last months if not years without leaving any residue and can be torn very evenly to fit to size.
 
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Agreed, Sorry, just used them as example. Not a pro and buying two medium format cameras, that is a bit over the top.


There were like 12-13 customers including me in the store when everyone gradually noticed the two Leicas sitting on the counter while the owner was writing up the order, so eventually he had a crowd around him at the counter which led to a "back and forth" about the cameras.

In terms of expensive glass the word I kept thinking of was "wow".

Lenses for this Leica run bet. 8-10 grand, so one camera and a lens is 30 grand.


The Hasselblad X2D 100 @ 8 grand w/4 grand lens is 12 and a camera you'll find in many commercial studios, I absolutely cannot see the 18 grand difference in value between the camera systems, just can't The X2D comes w/1TB of memory.

It's his money, he said he'd always wanted to do it, as he was getting side comments and laughs about having "deep pockets", it was definitely clear he didn't have to work.


I don't think this gentleman had any illusions about what he'd produce w/these cameras, he didn't care.

On the freeway coming from OCcamera, I kept thinking thinking about this guy blowing this kind of a wad to fondle his two new toys, and of course there are guys on here who can do the same thing.

It is "over the top", but I guess it is their money.


When I got home and told my wife about it her response was...


"And I thought you were crazy!!"
 
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There were like 12-13 customers including me in the store when everyone gradually noticed the two Leicas sitting on the counter while the owner was writing up the order, so eventually he had a crowd around him at the counter which led to a "back and forth" about the cameras.

In terms of expensive glass the word I kept thinking of was "wow".

Lenses for this Leica run bet. 8-10 grand, so one camera and a lens is 30 grand.


The Hasselblad X2D 100 @ 8 grand w/4 grand lens is 12 and a camera you'll find in many commercial studios, I absolutely cannot see the 18 grand difference in value between the camera systems, just can't.

It's his money, he said he'd always wanted to do it, as he was getting side comments and laughs about having "deep pockets", it was definitely clear he didn't have to work.


I don't think this gentleman had any illusions about what he'd produce w/these cameras, he didn't care.

On the freeway coming from OCcamera, I kept thinking thinking about this guy blowing this kind of a wad to fondle his two new toys, and of course there are guys on here who can do the same thing.

It is "over the top", but I guess it is their money.


When I got home and told my wife about it her response was...


"And I thought you were crazy!!"
Guys name didn't happen to be TheHorta was it :ROFLMAO: Seriously though, we need guys like this to help our wives understand it could be much worse than it is ;)
 
There were like 12-13 customers including me in the store when everyone gradually noticed the two Leicas sitting on the counter while the owner was writing up the order, so eventually he had a crowd around him at the counter which led to a "back and forth" about the cameras.

In terms of expensive glass the word I kept thinking of was "wow".

Lenses for this Leica run bet. 8-10 grand, so one camera and a lens is 30 grand.


The Hasselblad X2D 100 @ 8 grand w/4 grand lens is 12 and a camera you'll find in many commercial studios, I absolutely cannot see the 18 grand difference in value between the camera systems, just can't The X2D comes w/1TB of memory.

It's his money, he said he'd always wanted to do it, as he was getting side comments and laughs about having "deep pockets", it was definitely clear he didn't have to work.


I don't think this gentleman had any illusions about what he'd produce w/these cameras, he didn't care.

On the freeway coming from OCcamera, I kept thinking thinking about this guy blowing this kind of a wad to fondle his two new toys, and of course there are guys on here who can do the same thing.

It is "over the top", but I guess it is their money.


When I got home and told my wife about it her response was...


"And I thought you were crazy!!"
That actually would have been fun. And yes It would have been nice to have my wife watch as well so I don't get the silent treatment for new RF mount Canon lens I was about about to buy.
 
Something that's perplexed me about Nightforce's strategy is how much Nightforce spends on marketing & how frequently and consistently shitty Nightforce's customer services is reputed to be. Surely this will catch up to them, sooner or later.

A wise man once said “eyes are like assholes…”
You and I might count a little differently
 
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Something that's perplexed me about Nightforce's strategy is how much Nightforce spends on marketing & how frequently and consistently shitty Nightforce's customer services is reputed to be. Surely this will catch up to them, sooner or later.


You and I might count a little differently

Well they did send me a free ring cap earlier this year when I called trying to buy one since I lost one. It was a positive experience but it doesn’t make up for sticking me with a defective optic and telling me I just don’t know how to focus a diopter.
 
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I own NXS and an ATACR & like them all a lot, but I've never had to deal w/ NF's CS. My understanding of NF CS is purely based on what I've read online.

Vortex certainly isn't making it easy on NF... introducing the G3 Razor & often selling for arguably less than they should, then backing all of their products up w/ unreasonably good customer service. I feel like Nightforce has a day of reckoning in their future.
 
I own NXS and an ATACR & like them all a lot, but I've never had to deal w/ NF's CS. My understanding of NF CS is purely based on what I've read online.

Vortex certainly isn't making it easy on NF... introducing the G3 Razor & often selling for arguably less than they should, then backing all of their products up w/ unreasonably good customer service. I feel like Nightforce has a day of reckoning in their future.

I don’t doubt that the G3 6-36 is a good optic (my 1-10’s were just ok, Vudu is better), but not everyone wants a 3lb optic and the G2’s are the same way. They’re absolute pigs. On a comp rifle it may not really matter but that’s not what everyone is shooting. NF has several good options 30oz or less which is significant. At the 30oz mark an optic is at home on a target rifle, a hunting rifle, or a crossover rifle.

So unless NF comes out with something high end that’s lighter they’re going to lose sales to competitors based on weight alone.
 
Well they did send me a free ring cap earlier this year when I called trying to buy one since I lost one. It was a positive experience but it doesn’t make up for sticking me with a defective optic and telling me I just don’t know how to focus a diopter.
I see your point. And what would it cost them to just say “here we will trade you out for a completely new scope of the same model.” ? Just to see if the customer will be satisfied.
They boast that “less than 1% of total scopes made ever come back for warranty”, Of that 1% what percentage is like your case? Probably a small number. It would cost them nothing.

That’s what I would do. But I’m not ceo of NF.

And customer service is why I buy all my guns from dales cashway, starting with my first gun when I was 12. He isn’t the cheapest but he has what I want usually. One time I bought a rifle that wouldn’t shoot good no matter what I tried, he asked one day so I mentioned that, he said he wanted to have a look at it next time I came in. Next week I stopped by with the rifle, get this,
he said “ok good let me take a look at it”
I hand him the rifle.
He checked it for clear, then leans it against the case behind him, and looks at me and says, and yes I quote “what do you need me to do to make you happy”
I ended up trading it in and spending a bit more for another gun I liked.
 
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All scopes have warts of some kind.

Overall ATACRs are good scopes that are generally well rounded that are likely to serve you well for a long time.

Overpriced at MSRP? Absolutely, But you can get good deals on slightly used scopes. 4-16s are generally between 1800 and 2000, they are a great value in that price range, IMO. 7-35s are generally 2700-2800, I think they are an okay value at that price. I don't think you get much out of 35x vs 25x. I haven't played with the vortex 6-36, but that can be had for quite a bit less than the 7-35 ATACR, and by all reports, the vortex is a great scope.
 
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I've got three NX8's with the Mil-XT reticle and I think they are one of the best bang for buck scopes on the market. I don't get all of the hype on super super scope glass, it's like when some audiophile fools get brain washed into monster cables. I understand top shelf glass for binos, spotting scopes and especially camera lenses... you know, things that you may be looking through for hours at a time, even if you aren't trying to shoot it.

Rifle scope??? LOL... durability, tracking, reticle design, and light gathering are way more important in that order.

-ZA
 
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The NF Atacr dominates the ELR equipment list. You have guys spending eye-watering amounts of cash to compete and they put a NF on their rifles. Tells me a few things.

Lots of internal elevation
They track
Glass is good enough for 2 mile shots
They can take recoil abuse
The recoil comment here is vitally important.. The NF is bulletproof optic.. I've recently had to return another brands higher priced optic due to what I believe was recoil failure in the optic..
 
They are excellent durable scopes, speaking of the Atacr and NXS line, but there are occasions in shadow that I have struggled to find my target. Enough so that I've discontinued using it on my comp rifle.