- Thread starter Nortex
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Re: NM Garand sights
I run a .062" NM front sight and a .0595" NM hooded rear sight. For me it's a good setup. Some people prefer a thicker front sight, some people prefer the smaller .0520" NM hooded rear sight. Really depends on personal preference and your eyes.
I run a .062" NM front sight and a .0595" NM hooded rear sight. For me it's a good setup. Some people prefer a thicker front sight, some people prefer the smaller .0520" NM hooded rear sight. Really depends on personal preference and your eyes.
Re: NM Garand sights
I use the standard Front sight, and a .595 rear. I also followed some OLD AMU directions on modifying the rear sight for 1/2 minute adjustments. Very simple conversion. See the pics. Drilling that detent spring hole was the hardest part, that garand reciever was tough.
Then you face the rear windage drum, and using the gear looking index tool, just dimple evenly spaced notches for the ball to set in and you have yourself a nice 1/2 min click thats positive and distinct.
Then the finished project looks like a regular rear sight. Sorry for the bad pictures, its all I have on my computer right now.
SSG Jonathan O'Neal
I use the standard Front sight, and a .595 rear. I also followed some OLD AMU directions on modifying the rear sight for 1/2 minute adjustments. Very simple conversion. See the pics. Drilling that detent spring hole was the hardest part, that garand reciever was tough.
Then you face the rear windage drum, and using the gear looking index tool, just dimple evenly spaced notches for the ball to set in and you have yourself a nice 1/2 min click thats positive and distinct.
Then the finished project looks like a regular rear sight. Sorry for the bad pictures, its all I have on my computer right now.
SSG Jonathan O'Neal
Re: NM Garand sights
Nice job on the windage knob modification. I'll admit I went the lazy man route and have the NM/2A base and NM windage knob on my my M1 and M25. They have their correct elevation pinions, the M1 which goes up to 1200 yards and the M25 marked "M" and goes to 1100 meters.
You should also machine the base so the hood can sit down lower so it's protected by the sight ears when not in use. I'm surprised the AMU manual didn't mention that part of the modification.
Nice job on the windage knob modification. I'll admit I went the lazy man route and have the NM/2A base and NM windage knob on my my M1 and M25. They have their correct elevation pinions, the M1 which goes up to 1200 yards and the M25 marked "M" and goes to 1100 meters.
You should also machine the base so the hood can sit down lower so it's protected by the sight ears when not in use. I'm surprised the AMU manual didn't mention that part of the modification.
Re: NM Garand sights
I also like and work well with the .062 and .095 sizes.
The old fix for slop in the sight base was peening the metal at the bottom of the slot, but I prefer "bedding" the thing in epoxy for a more secure up and down slide action. There are one or two simple tricks to avoid just getting the aperture assembly permanently glued in.
A little grinding on the bottom "corner" of the aperture "rack" lets it go down a few more clicks. Combine that with lowering the front post some and the amazingly-consistent 10-12 clicks up from bottom for the 100 yard zero can become 4 clicks. That's nice when you're shooting beyond 600. Getting more "down" from that side is needed before you can get to the relief cutting that NoExpert mentioned.
If the elevation drum has backlash (about 1 out of 4 do, IME), there's a slightly involved but simple fix which requires popping the pinion off the drum. Once done, some mystery resistance of groups to move from the top of the 10-ring into the X will go away.
Finally, that 8-point windage modification using the ball bearing requires, for consistency, either very consistent detents in the knob with no wobble in the system, or just doing everything deep enough to bury the bearing and have the knob resting against the receiver instead of against the ball. Some HP shooters back in the day who bought the SA, Inc., knobs with the stamped V-detents went nuts with inconsistent 1/4- to 3/4 minute windage changes per click until they figured that out. I also like getting the standard threads tightened up one way or another to remove backlash.
I also like and work well with the .062 and .095 sizes.
The old fix for slop in the sight base was peening the metal at the bottom of the slot, but I prefer "bedding" the thing in epoxy for a more secure up and down slide action. There are one or two simple tricks to avoid just getting the aperture assembly permanently glued in.
A little grinding on the bottom "corner" of the aperture "rack" lets it go down a few more clicks. Combine that with lowering the front post some and the amazingly-consistent 10-12 clicks up from bottom for the 100 yard zero can become 4 clicks. That's nice when you're shooting beyond 600. Getting more "down" from that side is needed before you can get to the relief cutting that NoExpert mentioned.
If the elevation drum has backlash (about 1 out of 4 do, IME), there's a slightly involved but simple fix which requires popping the pinion off the drum. Once done, some mystery resistance of groups to move from the top of the 10-ring into the X will go away.
Finally, that 8-point windage modification using the ball bearing requires, for consistency, either very consistent detents in the knob with no wobble in the system, or just doing everything deep enough to bury the bearing and have the knob resting against the receiver instead of against the ball. Some HP shooters back in the day who bought the SA, Inc., knobs with the stamped V-detents went nuts with inconsistent 1/4- to 3/4 minute windage changes per click until they figured that out. I also like getting the standard threads tightened up one way or another to remove backlash.
