NRL Hunter Bino/LRF

[tex68w]

I am looking to try my hand at a few NRL Hunter matches next year and from the research I have done it appears that having a LRF Bino is the way to go in order to save time spotting/ranging on each stage. Looking into all of the LRF Binos currently on the market it also appears that there's a lot left to be desired in this market as well. You can have alpha glass but crap ballistic software or no way to connect to a Kestrel or possibly even no AB software at all. Then there's those with mediocre glass but a busy screen or multiple function buttons needing to be hit in order to get all of your info, or some crazy colored glass that hurts your visibility in certain scenarios, etc. It appears that there's no clear winner at the moment in this segment as they all have some sort of compromise.

So, for those of you who compete in NRL Hunter, what are you using and why? Are you happy with your choice or are you looking to move to something else and for what reasons? I am simply looking to buy something specifically for this event as I am still a big fan of having quality binos and a separate LRF monocular for the actual hunting that I do. Help me buy once and move on to other decisions like which bipod I should be using for this as well haha.

 

[Hoyt7mm]

You're on the right track with the ranging binos. I think they're well worth it from a time saving perspective. Personally, I don't care if they connect to a Kestrel or have on board ballistics. I make a hard data card with a wind column or 2 and stick that in my arm board. I don't think it's really any slower than waiting for your ballistics to pop up in your bino display.

I'm using the Swaro EL Range 10x42s and have been very happy with them. Glass is great as expected, and I don't have an issue with the laser - it pinged a coyote sized target at a bit over 1k without issue at a match earlier this year. Leica seems to be another good option if you want top end glass with good laser. For the money, the Vortex Furys have been very impressive. I have a few friends using them and they haven't had issues. Sig 6/10k also fit the bill.

 

[tex68w]

You're on the right track with the ranging binos. I think they're well worth it from a time saving perspective. Personally, I don't care if they connect to a Kestrel or have on board ballistics. I make a hard data card with a wind column or 2 and stick that in my arm board. I don't think it's really any slower than waiting for your ballistics to pop up in your bino display.

I'm using the Swaro EL Range 10x42s and have been very happy with them. Glass is great as expected, and I don't have an issue with the laser - it pinged a coyote sized target at a bit over 1k without issue at a match earlier this year. Leica seems to be another good option if you want top end glass with good laser. For the money, the Vortex Furys have been very impressive. I have a few friends using them and they haven't had issues. Sig 6/10k also fit the bill.

The Fury AB were my very first to consider given the price they can be had for under the VIP program. The Sig Kilo 6K is right there with it but most say it's the better unit of the two. Like I said in my original post, I don't need these for western big game hunts where I'll be behind glass for hours on end, this is strictly to spot and range targets inside of 1000 yds for NRL Hunter events. I like the idea of $1K for a set as that's a much more reasonable investment for something that I might not do or need beyond a year or a couple of events. Sig Kilo 6k, 10K, Vortex Fury 5K HD AB, Leica, what else should I be considering? Any thoughts on bipods?

 

[dgheriani]

I use the Fury ABs and they're great. Glass obviously isn't on par with Swaro or Leica but is very usable and the laser is great and fast. Having your dope pop up in your binos is nice but not a necessity, just getting range and using an armboard works well. With the Furys there's a bit of a delay from getting the range to getting your dope (2-3 seconds, maybe?) so I tend to find a target, range it, write the range on my armboard, landmark the target and then move to scanning for the next. While I'm scanning for the next target, I'll make note of what the dope is flashing in the binos and when I write the range for T2 on my armboard, I'll also write the dope for T1. Worst case if I range T2 and forget the dope for T1, I have a dope chart on my armboard so can just reference that. The Sig 10Ks are faster, apparently, with regards to populating your dope but I don't like the blueish tinge the glass has.

As for a bipod, if you can make weight with it in the class you want to shoot in, a triple-pull Ckyepod (2.54lbs with RRS throw lever) will get you out of a lot of jams. If that's too heavy, a lightweight double-pull Ckyepod (1.32lbs with BTC head) would be my choice.

 

[powdahound76]

There is a pair of Swaro EL Range (not newest, not oldest) in the PX for $1500.

I would try to stretch for those if I were in the market vs 1k for some vortex or sig.

 

[tex68w]

I use the Fury ABs and they're great. Glass obviously isn't on par with Swaro or Leica but is very usable and the laser is great and fast. Having your dope pop up in your binos is nice but not a necessity, just getting range and using an armboard works well. With the Furys there's a bit of a delay from getting the range to getting your dope (2-3 seconds, maybe?) so I tend to find a target, range it, write the range on my armboard, landmark the target and then move to scanning for the next. While I'm scanning for the next target, I'll make note of what the dope is flashing in the binos and when I write the range for T2 on my armboard, I'll also write the dope for T1. Worst case if I range T2 and forget the dope for T1, I have a dope chart on my armboard so can just reference that. The Sig 10Ks are faster, apparently, with regards to populating your dope but I don't like the blueish tinge the glass has.

As for a bipod, if you can make weight with it in the class you want to shoot in, a triple-pull Ckyepod (2.54lbs with RRS throw lever) will get you out of a lot of jams. If that's too heavy, a lightweight double-pull Ckyepod (1.32lbs with BTC head) would be my choice.

Thanks for the reply. So Atlas CAL Gen 2 or TBAC not really useful in this discipline? Are they not tall enough to be considered?

 

[powdahound76]

Optics - Swaro and Zeiss RF Binos

I have these binos and find myself grabbing my Vortex rangefinder with Geoballistics more and more. Swaro RF (not the model with tracking but not 1st Gen) $1600 shipped Zeiss RF 10x42 with Bluetooth & ballistics, owned them about a year, work perfect and align terrific with the app. I only...

www.snipershide.com

 

[tex68w]

There is a pair of Swaro EL Range (not newest, not oldest) in the PX for $1500.

I would try to stretch for those if I were in the market vs 1k for some vortex or sig.

I’ve seen those, definitely on the radar.

 

[Hoyt7mm]

Thanks for the reply. So Atlas CAL Gen 2 or TBAC not really useful in this discipline? Are they not tall enough to be considered?

You can be competitive with either of those. I ran a CAL last year and well with it. This year I'm running a double pull and am very thankful that I am. The adjustability and added height range of a Ckye pod (double or triple pull especially) really shine in these matches. It comes down to being familiar with your gear. Figure out ways to get more height out of your bipod on the fly and/or become very proficient shooting off your tripod as main support.

 

[powdahound76]

Thanks for the reply. So Atlas CAL Gen 2 or TBAC not really useful in this discipline? Are they not tall enough to be considered?

Take this with a grain of salt, I was at my first NRL Hunter club match last weekend……

CAL Worked for me on 7 stages. Used tripod on 3.

Could get by with extenders and swap em out while waiting for stage (but hard to tell what height you will need till you find targets).

I have a Harris with quick swap leg extenders on a Badger TRAMP I could use next time when I need the height and dont wanna tripod.

Question I ask myself.

Am I going to carry a ckyepod hunting?
Or a Harris and extenders?
(Likely not unless a short walk)
Or make do off a pack (prone to seated) and tripod for more height needed? (My plan for my next Hunter match)

 

[dgheriani]

Thanks for the reply. So Atlas CAL Gen 2 or TBAC not really useful in this discipline? Are they not tall enough to be considered?

I don't have any experience with either of those bipods but like Hoyt7mm said, it's really about knowing your gear. If you know that the bipod you are using won't get you the height you need then you just need to shoot off your tripod or something else. The Ckyepods just give you that added height for those times you drop down prone then realize that you needed a bit more height. The triple pull lets you shoot kneeling using your tripod (that you ranged off) as rear support for a super stable, super quick position.

As to the weight, a lightweight double-pull Ckyepod is about 4oz heavier than one of my Harris' (with spikes and RRS pic/arca adapter) but immensely more versatile. I take it hunting.

 

[tex68w]

Take this with a grain of salt, I was at my first NRL Hunter club match last weekend……

CAL Worked for me on 7 stages. Used tripod on 3.

Could get by with extenders and swap em out while waiting for stage (but hard to tell what height you will need till you find targets).

I have a Harris with quick swap leg extenders on a Badger TRAMP I could use next time when I need the height and dont wanna tripod.

Question I ask myself.

Am I going to carry a ckyepod hunting?
Or a Harris and extenders?
(Likely not unless a short walk)
Or make do off a pack (prone to seated) and tripod for more height needed? (My plan for my next Hunter match)

In a real world hunting scenario I am much more likely to shoot prone off of my pack than from a bipod. I guess I just need to start with what I have and see what works and what doesn’t.

I don't have any experience with either of those bipods but like Hoyt7mm said, it's really about knowing your gear. If you know that the bipod you are using won't get you the height you need then you just need to shoot off your tripod or something else. The Ckyepods just give you that added height for those times you drop down prone then realize that you needed a bit more height. The triple pull lets you shoot kneeling using your tripod (that you ranged off) as rear support for a super stable, super quick position.

As to the weight, a lightweight double-pull Ckyepod is about 4oz heavier than one of my Harris' (with spikes and RRS pic/arca adapter) but immensely more versatile. I take it hunting.

I have never played with a Cykepod but I know they ar popular with the gamer crowds and I can see their versatility and value. Again, I guess I need to start somewhere and just see what works for me and where I need to upgrade.

 

[4O6shootist]

I'd suggest a double pull lightweight ckyepod, and some kilo 6k binos, the Leica pro binos right now are prob the best alpha glass/best laser combo but they are not cheap. I have kilo 10k, and they laser is badass, but the glass is ehhh not that good. My zeiss victory Rf are amazing glass, but the laser is just how hom. There isn't anything out right now that is top notch laser with top notch glass. I think sig will fix that in the coming year to 18 months. The euro glass manufacturers, I don't think they will attempt, as 97% their buyers only shoot inside 500y. The demand for alpha glass/laser is loud in our shooting community, but we're a very small % of the customer base.

 

[SD Carpenter]

The best combo I've seen is Swarovski 12x pures, and a 8k sog range finder on a tac table. If Sig would put their electronics behind alpha glass it would the best.

 

[tex68w]

I'd suggest a double pull lightweight ckyepod, and some kilo 6k binos, the Leica pro binos right now are prob the best alpha glass/best laser combo but they are not cheap. I have kilo 10k, and they laser is badass, but the glass is ehhh not that good. My zeiss victory Rf are amazing glass, but the laser is just how hom. There isn't anything out right now that is top notch laser with top notch glass. I think sig will fix that in the coming year to 18 months. The euro glass manufacturers, I don't think they will attempt, as 97% their buyers only shoot inside 500y. The demand for alpha glass/laser is loud in our shooting community, but we're a very small % of the customer base.

I am assuming most are pairing their Kestrel with the Sig? Who has the best deal on those bipods? They aren't cheap.

 

[SD Carpenter]

I am assuming most are pairing their Kestrel with the Sig? Who has the best deal on those bipods? They aren't cheap.

MDT black Friday is usually when everyone stocks up on that stuff

 

[BoulderE89]

Having shot them for the last few years, the NRL Hunter has become my favorite type of match. The entire time I’ve been using the kilo 3K and I’ve always appreciated using them when I hear others ranged something wrong or had an issue. I would steer clear of Leica, my buddy has struggled with them over and over repeatedly. One match it was raining and they wouldn’t even spit out a number, just came back with an error. That being said I’ve seen the glass on the kilo 6K and would like to upgrade my 3Ks to that soon. They’re nicer in the glass department and have the same reliability software and ranging wise. 10Ks have some interesting glass. The coatings needed for ranging to 10K leave a blue haze on the image. Swaros are excellent and you’ll never wanna look through anything else again but they’re expensive.

As far as bipod, the matches have taught me you can run it one of 2 ways. The way I have mostly done, which is a triple pull and use the tripod as rear support to get in non prone positions. With practice it’s very stable. The other is use a Tbac or atlas size bipod for prone and be proficient at shooting off the tripod itself when you need to get off the ground. I am gonna have to do this in order to compete in open light next year, as the triple pull is just too heavy. Both are valid, just get good at whatever you choose and practice

 

[Punkur67]

I am looking to try my hand at a few NRL Hunter matches next year and from the research I have done it appears that having a LRF Bino is the way to go in order to save time spotting/ranging on each stage. Looking into all of the LRF Binos currently on the market it also appears that there's a lot left to be desired in this market as well. You can have alpha glass but crap ballistic software or no way to connect to a Kestrel or possibly even no AB software at all. Then there's those with mediocre glass but a busy screen or multiple function buttons needing to be hit in order to get all of your info, or some crazy colored glass that hurts your visibility in certain scenarios, etc. It appears that there's no clear winner at the moment in this segment as they all have some sort of compromise.

So, for those of you who compete in NRL Hunter, what are you using and why? Are you happy with your choice or are you looking to move to something else and for what reasons? I am simply looking to buy something specifically for this event as I am still a big fan of having quality binos and a separate LRF monocular for the actual hunting that I do. Help me buy once and move on to other decisions like which bipod I should be using for this as well haha.

I ran the sig kilo 3k binos for a couple years and they did fine. I just upgraded to the sig kilo 6k hd and the glass is definitely better. Definitely not alpha glass but pretty clear and a solid RF. The blue tint on tge 10ks sucks. I couldn't justify the Leicas or swaros with their RF fflaws.They work and have great glass but too expensive to still have flaws

 

[4O6shootist]

I am assuming most are pairing their Kestrel with the Sig? Who has the best deal on those bipods? They aren't cheap.

The kilo 6k only needs paired to get dope past 800y. So I personally wouldnt pair it unless absolutely necessary. There is also a bipod called the "hatch bipod" it gets very tall it necessary, and is around same weight as a lightweight ckyepod. However it's foot print is pretty large. If I needed it, if run cky single ligntweight and a hatch. That'd put you from 7" to 36" or height off the ground.

 

[tex68w]

As far as bipod, the matches have taught me you can run it one of 2 ways. The way I have mostly done, which is a triple pull and use the tripod as rear support to get in non prone positions. With practice it’s very stable. The other is use a Tbac or atlas size bipod for prone and be proficient at shooting off the tripod itself when you need to get off the ground. I am gonna have to do this in order to compete in open light next year, as the triple pull is just too heavy. Both are valid, just get good at whatever you choose and practice

This might be way that I run it this first year, use the bipod I currently have and then use the tripod should I need more height. Before I run out and buy a pricey, big silly gamer bipod I'd like to see if I can get things done with the components that I already own and actually use for hunting, it's just good to know that others have done the same with successful results. The Sig Kilo 6K ABU BDX 2.0 sounds like the way to go for the LRF Binos as well.

 

[wpeach1912]

I’ve used the sig 3ks for a bit over a year now both hunting and NRL hunter matches. At hunter matches, I’ve struggled some getting them to reliably range skylined targets since the beam divergence is so large. Glasswise they are not the best, but I have never not found a target at a hunter match. I think the 6ks shrunk the beam divergence a bit and have similar or better glass, so that could be the way to go. I always run my sigs connected to the kestrel just for utmost accuracy on dope and so I don’t have to go switching settings for past 800 yard stuff. I’ve been to 5 2 day hunter matches and 2 hunter one matches and I think I’ve timed out maybe 2-3 times. My buddy that I shoot hunter matches with has the vortex fury ABs. They seem to have a more precise rangefinder (smaller beam) in them than the 3ks as well, but they do take a few seconds to generate a firing solution and have weird calibration issues sometimes.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

If money isn’t a concern, it’s hard to beat the new Leica Geovid Pros: Alpha glass, Applied Ballistics on board, Bluetooth link to Kestrel (including range card functionality) and other external devices, and a very capable range finding laser (though not quite as good as the Kilo 6k)

 

[b6graham]

If money isn’t a concern, it’s hard to beat the new Leica Geovid Pros: Alpha glass, Applied Ballistics on board, Bluetooth link to Kestrel (including range card functionality) and other external devices, and a very capable range finding laser (though not quite as good as the Kilo 6k)

i really want to see a good comparison betwen the Geovid Pro 10x42 and NL Pure. i run an NL Pure 12x42 and have been debating swapping to the leica for the LRF capability

 

[StrayDog]

Don't overlook the Revic LRF-Bino in this choice.
It's like the Sig 10K laser, with the Vortex FuryAB interface, with glass better than both but not quite Leica, all mashed together.
Even the Leicas have a delay for solutions. Anint nobody got time for that!
Brandon, I'm waiting for Swaro to make 15x NL binos

 

[Jabberjaw]

take a look through the Vortex, and while certainly not in the Swaro/Zeiss/Leica category, they were not bad either.

The other option seems to be the Sig 3000 but I have not looked through them yet.

 

[tex68w]

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Sig Kilo 6K 10x42 ABU BDX 2.0. I'll give them a whirl this fall and if I still feel like they aren't getting it done I'll dump them and try again.

 

[verdugo60]

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Sig Kilo 6K 10x42 ABU BDX 2.0. I'll give them a whirl this fall and if I still feel like they aren't getting it done I'll dump them and try again.

The 6K's are probably the best option in that price point for now. Enjoy.

The double pull lightweight ckyepod (or triple pull) is worth it's weight in gold for field matches, especially when high angle stuff comes into play. Nothing wrong with shooting with what you have to start though, if you like the format then maybe get a ckyepod or similar down the road. For now, practice with your tripod in awkward positions.

 

[Burdy]

Revisiting this one. Kind of in the same conundrum. I am shooting my first Hunter match in February and my goal was to run this exactly as I would in the field. I do realize this puts me at a disadvantage, but I am ok with that. My gun weighs 8lb 3 ounces with bipod and suppressor, so I've got room to add just about anything if needed.

It's a tough choice to make on the workflow of the ranging. I could:
Range with any rangefinding bino/mono and then reference an arm board for DOPE
Range with a weapons mount LRF such as the Impact 4000
Range with a bino that has built in ballistics and write on blank armboard
Range with a bino that has built in ballistics synced to a Garmin Fourtex or similar
Any number of these above also tied to a Kestrel is an option as well

I am willing to spend as little as possible or as much as needed, but I don't want gear that will ONLY be used in competition. It needs to fill a need in the field as well.
Additionally, while very savvy with technology and electronics, I tend to prefer to keep my hunting and shooting sports electronics to a minimum for obvious reasons, so there is that factor as well. If I do use electronics, I like to minimize the devices that need to sync to other devices.

I think the issue is that what would really be best for hunting likely won't be the best/fastest for the competition which kind of sucks, because that's what you want the competition geared for.

As for bipod, similar situation. I have a Q kickstand on the rifle now which is light and quiet for actual hunting, but would be horrible for speed. I also have an Atlas and a MDT GRND POD I could use. Not opposed to buying something else if I felt it would meet multiple uses.

Maybe my brain is geared incorrectly for this competition as I am used to speed being important but I just not sure. If its like any other form of competition you can analyze it until you are blue in the face but the answers wont come until after you have done it a time or two.

The best combo I've seen is Swarovski 12x pures, and a 8k sog range finder on a tac table. If Sig would put their electronics behind alpha glass it would the best.

Do people co-align these so that when you are using the binos for location you can simply get the LRF reading at the same time or is the reading taken separately from the viewing and the two devices are just side by side for efficiency sake?

 

[ECK]

I’m shooting my first Hunter Game (1-day local match) this Saturday so either I’ll be able to report that my setup worked out, or I‘ll be in the market for new gear in 2024…

My current setup that I’ve been using for PRS and NRL22 matches is the Sig 10K LRF bino’s paired to my Kestrel. I have a Kestrel pouch velcro’ed to one leg of my tripod and a 4x6” white board on another leg. Idea is turn on the Kestrel once I start to deploy my tripod, drop my Schmedium on top of the tripod, get bino’s out and start scanning for targets while resting on the Schmedium. This is how I ran for a while before I got a leveling head and arca clamp for my binos so I guess I am kinda used to that.

I will admit that my one major fear is not being able to find the target. Greyed out targets, in the shadows, under a tree, mistake a target from another stage…. See how it goes I guess.

I know the Sig 10Ks have their own on-board ballistics so I could skip the Kestrel pairing, but at this point I’ve spent more time trueing out my Kestrel data and at this point I trust it more than the AB calculator in the Sig 10K’s, so I’m sticking with what’s been working for now. And yeah, I’m aware of the 10k’s shortcomings in the glass department but I have great confidence in the LRF and love how quickly the dope pops up in the display. I don’t usually have trouble finding targets with the 10Ks at other matches I’ve shot, but will say that when it comes to spotting at other matches I usually use my 15x56 binos especially on heavy plates that don’t move much when hit.

I have my tripod legs marked for different heights: kneeling if there’s no tall grass or brush, or a standing height (that I can also shoot from) if there is tall veg/obstacles.

I have all the parts and pieces for a 6.5CM build, except for the action. Waiting on ZAI to send me the Origin action (should be getting close), then I can put that rifle together and start load development. For this weekend’s match I’ll just shoot my 6GT in Skills division I guess.

 

[wpeach1912]

I’m shooting my first Hunter Game (1-day local match) this Saturday so either I’ll be able to report that my setup worked out, or I‘ll be in the market for new gear in 2024…

My current setup that I’ve been using for PRS and NRL22 matches is the Sig 10K LRF bino’s paired to my Kestrel. I have a Kestrel pouch velcro’ed to one leg of my tripod and a 4x6” white board on another leg. Idea is turn on the Kestrel once I start to deploy my tripod, drop my Schmedium on top of the tripod, get bino’s out and start scanning for targets while resting on the Schmedium. This is how I ran for a while before I got a leveling head and arca clamp for my binos so I guess I am kinda used to that.

I will admit that my one major fear is not being able to find the target. Greyed out targets, in the shadows, under a tree, mistake a target from another stage…. See how it goes I guess.

I know the Sig 10Ks have their own on-board ballistics so I could skip the Kestrel pairing, but at this point I’ve spent more time trueing out my Kestrel data and at this point I trust it more than the AB calculator in the Sig 10K’s, so I’m sticking with what’s been working for now. And yeah, I’m aware of the 10k’s shortcomings in the glass department but I have great confidence in the LRF and love how quickly the dope pops up in the display. I don’t usually have trouble finding targets with the 10Ks at other matches I’ve shot, but will say that when it comes to spotting at other matches I usually use my 15x56 binos especially on heavy plates that don’t move much when hit.

I have my tripod legs marked for different heights: kneeling if there’s no tall grass or brush, or a standing height (that I can also shoot from) if there is tall veg/obstacles.

I have all the parts and pieces for a 6.5CM build, except for the action. Waiting on ZAI to send me the Origin action (should be getting close), then I can put that rifle together and start load development. For this weekend’s match I’ll just shoot my 6GT in Skills division I guess.

Since you’re from Idaho, I’m guessing you’re going to the Mountain Home match. Targets will likely be grayed out and set against sage brush. I’ve never had problems finding them with my 3000s though. I’d also recommend turning your kestrel on before time starts and leaving your leveling base in your tripod. My schmedium game changer sits fine enough for glassing over the leveling base, and if I need to use the tripod I just clip the rifle in. In my experience, it is significantly more stable for me to clip into the leveling base than running a game changer on top of the tripod.

 

[ECK]

Since you’re from Idaho, I’m guessing you’re going to the Mountain Home match. Targets will likely be grayed out and set against sage brush. I’ve never had problems finding them with my 3000s though. I’d also recommend turning your kestrel on before time starts and leaving your leveling base in your tripod. My schmedium game changer sits fine enough for glassing over the leveling base, and if I need to use the tripod I just clip the rifle in. In my experience, it is significantly more stable for me to clip into the leveling base than running a game changer on top of the tripod.

Yep, headed over to Mtn Home match on Saturday, really looking forward to it. I was squadded with Seth at Parma’s PRS match couple of weeks ago and asked him a bunch of questions about what to expect. I’m glad my first foray into NRL Hunter is going to be a 1-day Hunter Game match where we can get help if we need it.

Can we turn on the Kestrel before time starts? I do have my pouch setup so I can turn it on without removing it from the pouch. It only takes 10-20 secs for the pairing, so I figured the two will be talking in the time it takes me to deploy the tripod and get the bino’s out.

I was planning on leaving the leveling head on my tripod but remove the bino cradle. The cradle kinda messes with how the Schmedium sits on there.

I’ve been playing around between clipping the rifle into the leveling head vs shooting off the Schmedium. At this point, I’ve shot off the Schmedium way more than I have clipped in, plus I’m much faster on transitions off the bag. Jury’s out on that one for now, but I practice both when I dry-fire.

 

[wpeach1912]

Yep, headed over to Mtn Home match on Saturday, really looking forward to it. I was squadded with Seth at Parma’s PRS match couple of weeks ago and asked him a bunch of questions about what to expect. I’m glad my first foray into NRL Hunter is going to be a 1-day Hunter Game match where we can get help if we need it.

Can we turn on the Kestrel before time starts? I do have my pouch setup so I can turn it on without removing it from the pouch. It only takes 10-20 secs for the pairing, so I figured the two will be talking in the time it takes me to deploy the tripod and get the bino’s out.

I was planning on leaving the leveling head on my tripod but remove the bino cradle. The cradle kinda messes with how the Schmedium sits on there.

I’ve been playing around between clipping the rifle into the leveling head vs shooting off the Schmedium. At this point, I’ve shot off the Schmedium way more than I have clipped in, plus I’m much faster on transitions off the bag. Jury’s out on that one for now, but I practice both when I dry-fire.

Yeah I always turn mine on as a part of the pre stage checklist. Usually position transitions aren’t where you’re making up time at hunter matches. It’s more frequently getting your tripod out and binos on target quickly then smoothly transitioning to the rifle