O-ring spacer? Threads too long for suppressor

[Crang]

I have a Ruger American Rimfire and the threads are just a hair too long for my Surefire rimfire can. I know they make threaded spacers for when rimfires threads are cut at .6" length like a center-fire instead of .4" they are supposed to be. These spacers are .25". Problem is my threads are much closer to .4" and my can bottoms out with only a gap of roughly .05". I don't have feeler guages but holding my caliper in front of it that's pretty close. Using a .25" spacer would be way too long.

Any harm just using a silicon O-ring rated for 450F? I need more of a shim than a spacer.

 

[kl3309]

Get these: https://precisionarmament.com/accu-washer-muzzle-device-alignment-system/ and use just the thickness that you need.

O-ring as a shim may give you enough misalignment for a baffle-strike.

 

[oldrifleman]

Thats why they sell peelable shims (https://www.downrangeproductsco.com/product/223-5-56-12-x-28-thread-peel-washer-ss-steel/)

 

[Crang]

Get these: https://precisionarmament.com/accu-washer-muzzle-device-alignment-system/ and use just the thickness that you need.

O-ring as a shim may give you enough misalignment for a baffle-strike.

Cool- thanks. I just dropped them a line to see what washer # has a thickness of about .1". No need to buy the whole kit even. Thank you much- exactly what I was looking for.

 

[B y r o n]

O-ring is a bad idea. The large shim in one of these kits should solve your problem.

 

[mettee]

Thats a surefire ryder 22, mine is the same way, it is bottoming out on the outside edge of the crown. I think they did that to stop carbon intrusion into the threaded area.

Just leave it

 

[Crang]

Thats a surefire ryder 22, mine is the same way, it is bottoming out on the outside edge of the crown. I think they did that to stop carbon intrusion into the threaded area.

Just leave it

Yeah a Ryder-S. So just leave it bottomed out with the gap?

 

[mettee]

Yes I would.

I have shot mine a bunch and it's completely fine. You want it to seal like that.

 

[Crang]

Yes I would.

I have shot mine a bunch and it's completely fine. You want it to seal like that.

Interesting. I had shot it originally bottomed out and it threw the shots further than my scope has windage. Sent it back to Ruger and they recrowned it but still had left it a bit too long. Hopefully the muzzle is square now at least. My range time is so limited these days I may get the shim and try it both ways but no shim would be better long term if possible.

Edit- I just sent a message to Surefire to see if it is in fact supposed to seal on the muzzle and leave a gap. Will let you know when I get a reply.

 

[Crang]

Here was Surefires response on the Ryder-S-

"This suppressor can be run muzzle interfaced, no real need to shoulder interface with a spacer."

I guess the caveat is the muzzle needs to be square as much as the threads need to be concentric. I'll be finding out soon enough how the Ruger guys recut it.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Interesting. I had shot it originally bottomed out and it threw the shots further than my scope has windage. Sent it back to Ruger and they recrowned it but still had left it a bit too long. Hopefully the muzzle is square now at least. My range time is so limited these days I may get the shim and try it both ways but no shim would be better long term if possible.

One issue with having the barrel threads past the threaded opening of the can is carbon build up on barrel threads, to the point of it damaging the threads of both on removal. As long as you remove & clean after each session normally a none issue, but if otherwise it can present, issues.

 

[mettee]

Interesting. I had shot it originally bottomed out and it threw the shots further than my scope has windage. Sent it back to Ruger and they recrowned it but still had left it a bit too long. Hopefully the muzzle is square now at least. My range time is so limited these days I may get the shim and try it both ways but no shim would be better long term if possible.

Edit- I just sent a message to Surefire to see if it is in fact supposed to seal on the muzzle and leave a gap. Will let you know when I get a reply.

Well if the threads are borked don't use the barrel, obvioulsy. Sounds like you have good accurate threads now.

Of you try to shim it I think that will just cause problems with the threads building carbon. You will compromise either the cans thread, or the barrel thread, or both. If you look inside the threaded section of the first baffle you can see it was designed to bottom out there, they left a rim.

I can not remember which 22 can it was, but I had a buddy that had issues with the carbon causing issues with the threads. It mounted like the surefire and he "made some changes" that lead to issues.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

My tikka tx1 is threaded .485 and not .400 so im looking into what to do.
Running a takedown 22 supressor