I have been told that you have to be careful getting oil on the neck of a round that you are resizing, that this could cause the die to deform the neck. But I have also seen here where others have suggested oilling the whole round before resizing? I know that using a spray would be much faster then rolling the brass on a pad, but I don't want to damage the brass, or my die's.
- Thread starter engineerairborne
- Start date
Re: Oil on the Neck
I stand up my brass and spray it with Hornady "One Shot" lube. Both inside and out of case before neck sizing.
You use a small amount of if per case. Hornady "One Shot" can appear to be expensive when it's on a gun store shelve, but it often goes on sale on the Internet.
I stand up my brass and spray it with Hornady "One Shot" lube. Both inside and out of case before neck sizing.
You use a small amount of if per case. Hornady "One Shot" can appear to be expensive when it's on a gun store shelve, but it often goes on sale on the Internet.
Re: Oil on the Neck
I toss 100 or so cases in a ziploc bag, spray a few seconds of One-shot into the bag, shake it around a few minutes.
Makes for a thin uniform coating.
I toss 100 or so cases in a ziploc bag, spray a few seconds of One-shot into the bag, shake it around a few minutes.
Makes for a thin uniform coating.
Re: Oil on the Neck
Just be sure to rinse or wash the cases in something like lighter fluid to remove any oil or lube from the inside of the cases.
Just be sure to rinse or wash the cases in something like lighter fluid to remove any oil or lube from the inside of the cases.
Re: Oil on the Neck
Dillon case lube works great for me. Its not too thick so no dents on the neck/shoulder.
Dillon case lube works great for me. Its not too thick so no dents on the neck/shoulder.
Re: Oil on the Neck
I use the Dillon spray lube on the 650 progressive. All others get Imperial / Redding.
I use the Dillon spray lube on the 650 progressive. All others get Imperial / Redding.
Re: Oil on the Neck
I used to use Hornady One Shot, but like the Dillon much better for normal resizing. If I need more lubrication I use Imperial, but it's not worth the hassle most of the time. Don't worry about getting it on the necks, it won't be thick enough to hurt anything.
I used to use Hornady One Shot, but like the Dillon much better for normal resizing. If I need more lubrication I use Imperial, but it's not worth the hassle most of the time. Don't worry about getting it on the necks, it won't be thick enough to hurt anything.
Re: Oil on the Neck
as long as you tumble for 1-2 hours after resizing to remove the lube, you will be fine.
as long as you tumble for 1-2 hours after resizing to remove the lube, you will be fine.
Re: Oil on the Neck
Toss a few paper towel sheets in the tumbler for the first few minutes and the lube gets absorbed very quickly by the towels.
I used to use Unique, very similar to Imperial, but no more.
One-shot has saved me alot of time.
Toss a few paper towel sheets in the tumbler for the first few minutes and the lube gets absorbed very quickly by the towels.
I used to use Unique, very similar to Imperial, but no more.
One-shot has saved me alot of time.
Re: Oil on the Neck
the reason for this is that an accumulation of oil will be pushed up and usually collect on the shoulder causing a hydraulic dent on the shoulder caused by to much lube. Taking your time with the lube process (letting it dry a bit) will result in better looking brass. Most cases the dents will not cause a problem other than cosmetic (you should see how much my brass moves when I fireform my .50BMG to .50DTC. Even than I can get 1 to 1.5 moa out of fireforming.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: engineerairborne</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been told that you have to be careful getting oil on the neck of a round that you are resizing, that this could cause the die to deform the neck. But I have also seen here where others have suggested oilling the whole round before resizing? I know that using a spray would be much faster then rolling the brass on a pad, but I don't want to damage the brass, or my die's.
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the reason for this is that an accumulation of oil will be pushed up and usually collect on the shoulder causing a hydraulic dent on the shoulder caused by to much lube. Taking your time with the lube process (letting it dry a bit) will result in better looking brass. Most cases the dents will not cause a problem other than cosmetic (you should see how much my brass moves when I fireform my .50BMG to .50DTC. Even than I can get 1 to 1.5 moa out of fireforming.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: engineerairborne</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been told that you have to be careful getting oil on the neck of a round that you are resizing, that this could cause the die to deform the neck. But I have also seen here where others have suggested oilling the whole round before resizing? I know that using a spray would be much faster then rolling the brass on a pad, but I don't want to damage the brass, or my die's.
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Re: Oil on the Neck
Thanks for all the advice. I think that my next batch I will give this a try with spraying them down, then letting them sit for a little bit, sizing them, and then running them though a 2 hour cleaning in my tumbler. I have to believe this will save me some time.
Thanks for all the advice. I think that my next batch I will give this a try with spraying them down, then letting them sit for a little bit, sizing them, and then running them though a 2 hour cleaning in my tumbler. I have to believe this will save me some time.
Re: Oil on the Neck
I rarely do more than an hundred cases at a time, so I size and then tumble. I clean the flash holes with a wire, and don't mind the extra time for that.
I rarely do more than an hundred cases at a time, so I size and then tumble. I clean the flash holes with a wire, and don't mind the extra time for that.
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