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Oil? Viscosity problem. Intelligence required...

Alderleet

NCOIC of Shitposts
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 12, 2010
909
64
Downrange
Hey all, im finally deciding to change oil in my Aprilia Shiver...

However, i've come across a bit of a conundrum. My manual says use AGIP 15w-50.

I understand the 15w, comes from the flow properties in colder temperatures (winter start-up), and the 50 refers to the flow properties at standard operating temperatures.

However, i'm not a big fan of being bent over for expensive oils.

I understand the the JASO-MA standards and the fact motorcycle oils contain much higher levels of ZDDP (automotive oils dont, because ZDDP (a zinc phosphate) destroys catalytic converters over time), however ZDDP creates a last resort barrier in the event that oil doesnt make it somewhere, and metal to metal occurs. I also know that I cannot use automotive oils because they contain "friction reducing additives" that in turn makes any bike with a wet bathed clutch slip like a mo-fo. It makes it interesting that bikes, unlike cars, mix their clutch, transmission and engine oils as 1. Then i run into shear properties and foaming properties. I atleast know some of my shit.

However, 15w-50 is a extremely rare viscosity of oils.

Heres the million dollar question: What harm would running a different viscosity of oil do to a motorcycle? Say 10w-40? I ride in a warmer climate for the time being, so im curious if the flow properties for higher temps on the oil would cause anything funky to happen.

The thing i dont understand, and the internet does a piss-poor job of explaining it, is what is potential problems of running a different oil viscosity?

I had thought about shell Rotella-T 15w-40, since it is a diesel oil, has higher ZDDP levels (diesel oils dont get lumped with general automotive) and shell even went through the trouble of getting it JASO-MA certified.

Thoughts, suggestions, help? Also, if you say "just order your damn AGIP 15w-50 from AF1Racing", just die. Most motorcycle, and automotive mfgr's just have a contract with a specific oil brand when they sell the vehicle. They play musical chairs with oil companies all the time. (Take Ducati for example, they now, very recently, "only recommend" some obscure, expensive fucking offshoot of some type of shell oil)

 
Re: Oil? Viscosity problem. Intelligence required...

Does experience count? I can't vouch for my intelligence.

I have been running my cars using Castrol GTX 20W-50 since buying my first car, a new Volvo 142S, in 1968; on the advice of my only Uncle. It went 14 years.

The worst one, a used '87 Camaro, went 175K.

The current one, a '97 Honda Accord wagon, is at 278K.

Once the Odometer goes over 75K, I switch to the High Mileage verson. Lately, I have been doing my oil changes with Wallyworld Super Tech 20W-50, starting with one quart of Castrol GTX High Mileage to maintain a minimum presence of seal conditioner.

If there is a drawback to using a higher numeric grade of oil, it has never presented itself to me since 1968. Cars have includes a '79 Charger R/T, '79 Cad Fleetwood, '91 Lincoln, '76 Chev G20 Van, and several Winter Beater Jeeps of indiscriminate origin.

The main drawback with High Mileage oil is that if you put the car up into storage, you need to drain the oil, replace it and run it awhile on regular oil before putting it up; otherwise the seals bond to the crank and tear when you start it back up. I currently have a 2WD '95 tracker that needs new seals.

I would estimate that using this oil has saved me from having to make car payments for roughly 2/3 of the years I have been owning and driving my cars.

My last car payment was made sometime in the early 1990's.

Greg