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Ok, so really - ES/SD with Hornady brass?

DownhillFromHere

Aim > Impact > Take a Nap
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Minuteman
Nov 30, 2017
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Does anyone accomplish these single-digit ES/SD values I read about here using Hornady brass? Prime brass?

I've been reloading / handloading for 50+ years so I have a good grounding, but I've only been loading 6.5CM for a few months after a couple of decades' hiatus from bottleneck rifle. I'm using RCSB match dies on a Dillon 550 press, Sinclair mandrel for expanding after FL resize. Scale is an ancient RCBS beam scale with weights verified via check weights - it's consistent and accurate to under 0.1 grain. Trimming to 1.191" and chamfering with an equally ancient Forster trimmer and 3-in-1 head powered with a hand drill. Annealing via Anneal-eez. Rifle has a definite preference for Hornady 147 ELD-M factory ammo so I've been using that bullet with H4350 (41.3 grains gives 2799fps at best node so far). Seating depth trials between 0.015 and 0.030" off the lands. Concentricity is 0.002" or so. I'm getting 3/8-1/2" groups @100. Sometimes better, almost never worse.

My first few 5-shot strings did give single-digit spreads and deviations as I worked on OCW workup. The frustration is that after a few hundred rounds with both Hornady and Prime/Norma brass, the overall averages are 25-30 ES and SD of 9-11. Consistently ho-hum, about what I see with factory rounds.

Is this about what I can expect with cheaper brass? I'm going to try Lapua brass in the near future, but I have several hundred pieces of once-fired Hornady and Prime brass I'd like to use to its best capability.
 
Just shoot it! You’re doing fine.
That's what I figured. I keep a spreadsheet of all the permutations of powder charge and such... yeah, my best 5-shot ES is 3; I've had a 4-shot ES of 1 and 3-shot spread of 0. But over hundreds of shots, even at "optimal" node, spread is higher. I have a buddy who watched a guy dump a couple dozen pieces of once-fired Lapua brass into the range bucket; he brass-buzzarded it and wants me to try it. We'll see.

I knew when I jumped into the handloading rabbit hole I would have to strongly resist the urge to chase the futile goal of perfection....
 
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I just chrono’d a new load last weekend.

Hornady brass
140 ELD-M
CCI200
RL16

7.8 for 6 shots (SD).

As SuperSubes said, you are doing fine.

I have loaded close to 2k 6.5 rounds in Hornady brass. Yes, there are FAR better options. I have 2 boxes of Alpha that I have yet to play with because my supply of Hornady is still working.
 
I load 6.5 CM with 41.6 and 42.5 grains of H4350 and 140 ELD or Berger 140 bullets in RPR

I started reloading with Hornady brass kept from factory rounds. I then "splurged" and bought 100 pieces of Lapua. For me, there is a noticeable difference in SD and ES within the same exact loads, across most brands of bullets. It's just better brass in my opinion. I also got 250 pieces of Norma brass and that shoots better also. I'm using the Hornady pretty much for foulers and warm-up shots.

If you don't want to spend 125 bucks on box of Lapua brass, then just buy a box of Berger factory ammo. That factory ammo uses Lapua brass which you can save and reload. I bought a box, took all the measurements of an unfired round and I just match that same round for my reloads. I've shot .25 MOA all the way to 300 yards with that combo.
 
Thanks all. In working with my scale loading rounds for this weekend's match, I have found that I can induce a 2-6 kernel variance depending on how fast or slow I trickle the charge up to desired weight. The whole notion of OCW is to mitigate such variations; still, I don't know if this is enough to cause a 25-30 fps (very occasionally more) spread.

With that said, I was on the range Monday with a buddy trying out Hornady A-tips in his 6CM and he was getting those low spreads with Hornady brass right out of the gate- brand new loads, across his OCW weights.

So... I'm going to try the Lapua brass assuming I survive Saturday's heat and humidity high enough to wilt a chain-link fence. And I hear, way too loud, the siren song of an fx-120 scale. Argh. I knew this would happen... "good enough" isn't good enough.
 
If the issue is brass, you don't have to go nuts over the expensive options. Try Starline, either their small or large primer options. I've got the small primer and regularly get S.D.'s under 5, my last load with A-Tips had a 1.1. Starline is half the cost of Alpha and Peterson.
 
If you really want to get anal and squeeze the numbers...

EEF77F8F-1B53-44BC-A2BC-DB01C0AE0590.jpeg


7113341


The 5.2 and 5.3 is primer weights...note the difference in average velocities

This was in a 308 w/ lapua brass

Did the same test in 6 Creed a while back and the average velocity delta between 5.2 and 5.3 was 12 fps
 
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Make sure all of your Hornady brass weighs the same (same volume). Mine would shoot lights out one time then crap the next. I wet tumble, anneal, size and trim every time. I figured it out after I weighed them. Weight sorted and the problem went away.
I bought Peterson brass and they are spot on! But weigh much more! Hornady brass: load is 41.5-H4350, 140 ELDM, Peterson brass load is 40.6- H4350, 140 ELDM. They weigh 30 grains more per case, but all weigh the same.
Still figuring out which way I want to go?
 
41.3gr H4350 Remington 700 22" bbl
3X-Fired
I cannot for the life of me get lower ES, but the SD's are pretty good. :)

I also tried ADG 6.5CM brass on another rifle. Seems like the Norma is actually better...at least for 6.5CM.

My ADG Brass for 6.5 PRC on the other hand is consistently single digit SD no matter the loads I've tried. although accuracy is another story.

Norma Brass 10-shot string:
Stats - Average2645.46
Stats - Highest2654.11
Stats - Lowest2633.64
Stats - Ext. Spread20.47
Stats - Std. Dev6.32
Shot IDV0
12645
22643
32645
42647
52639
62653
72651
82654
92644
102634



Norma Brass 40-shots:
Stats - Average2620.35
Stats - Highest2647.85
Stats - Lowest2575.93
Stats - Ext. Spread71.92
Stats - Std. Dev12.58
Shot IDV0
12617
22626
32608
42607
52623
62607
72607
82608
92624
102615
112610
122638
132641
142648
152576
162616
172640
182611
192629
202628
212612
222627
232621
242613
252606
262627
272625
282610
292634
302620
312626
322624
332634
342626
352622
362627
372620
382622
392622
402619
 
I like hearing good things about ADG brass.
Bought some for a 7SAUM barrel on order.

This is my current 260 using Winchester 243 brass necked up with R16 and 147’s

 
I used to run Hornady brass, it was pretty good the first few firings and then my groups opened up, SD's increased, and I started getting random fliers. I've weighed Hornady brass and found 20 grain swings in weight. I switched to premium brass and I haven't looked back.
 
I've never had numbers problems with Hornady brass. Maybe annealing every so often to keep neck tension uniform?
 
I purchased a fx-120 and I love it. I would recommend that scale to anyone reloading. Very fast and accurate. My other scales would "float" - I would weigh a charge, remove it then put it back on and it would be .1 lower or higher. Not the 120, same every time.
 
I use Lapua Brass but have found that sometimes I just can't get great SD's with a specific powder.

R15 was a no go for my 308, lowest I was getting was around 12 SD (This was measured with an Entris 64-1s). I switched to N150 and SD's during load Dev was between 3 and 9, charges were thrown with a chargemaster.

Similar thing with 6.5 Creedmoor. Started with RL16 and load dev SD's were all single digit. After I settled on a load I shot 10x10 groups and the min was 2.X and the max was 6.X avg around 4.5 for all 10 groups. I switched to H4350 and most of the loads were high single digit to low teens, it only dropped down to mid/low single digit at the higher end of the powder weight.

Sometimes the rifle just doesn't like a certain powder. I assume the same can happen with bullets but I have stuck with the same bullet through the life of the 6.5 Creed barrel and the 308 has only seen 175 TMK's so far.
 
What would be considered a ranking, i now, personal opinion, of premium brass. I’ve been using Hornady with my 300WM, but I’ve seen Nosler and Norma brass locally. Are they a worthwhile step up? If not, what would be.

Thanks, Mike
 
Interesting thread. My take is that: Unless you are a bench rest shooter with a tight neck chamber and meticulously neck turned and “tuned” brass, and typically shooting lighter flat based bullets, you will not routinely get ES below 10 fps on a large sample (>50 shots). Or get groups routinely in the ones (<0.19”). The best BR guys achieve that, but that takes a level of OCD that is not practical for somebody that actually likes to shoot a few thousand rounds a year. But you can get lucky on small samples (like 5).

I load for a semi-custom 30” 6.5 Creedmoor with a Shilen Select Match barrel. It had a mirror finish when i bore scoped it before installing. Superb workmanship, and very little copper fouling observed. No green residue after 3-4 patches. So i cannot blame my barrel. Rifle will shoot 0.35” to 0.55” three shot groups, and 0.45” to 0.65” five shot groups, and some of that is me, the wind, and breaking position to single feed the rather long hand loaded ammo that will not fit in the magazine. Yes, with the occasional 1/4” group thrown in. Luck, probably. The one group you photograph and post for all to see. ? And 0.6” is good enough for my purpose (600 yard steel targets).

I use 140 Berger Hybrids and Lapua SRP brass, and have a nice node around 2760 fps using H4350. I realize this is somewhat slow for a 30” barrel, but it is the second highest node and i hope will give me better barrel life! I can get almost 3000 fps with RL-17, but i wonder about throat erosion... Bullets are seated long (10 thou jump) using a Wilson hand die with an arbor press, and concentricity / bullet runout is usually between 0.0005” (0.5 thou) and 0.0015” (1.5 thou). Occasional 2.5 thou is set aside. During load development (5 shot groups), i would get SDs in the 3-15 fps range. Have (only once) seen a 1.1. Luck, I’m sure. Best SDs are usually found in the node where positive compensation also appears. Maybe optimal barrel time is a real thing... ? But if i shoot a box of 50, all loaded the same charge on an FX120i, so loaded to the single kernel (tweezer in hand, with my OCD kicking in), i will see SDs in the 5-9 range. Very happy with that, actually. But ES will almost always be in the 25 to 35 fps range, often because of two or three “outliers”, which is disappointing as these will sometimes causes misses at 600 yards.

I clean the barrel as infrequently as i can: About every 300 rounds.

What i have noticed is that a hot barrel (120 Deg F) can push the speed up by 15 to 25 fps. Read a scientific study somewhere that even though powders like H4350 are partially temperature stabilized, the primer material is not at all temperature insensitive. (Have a temperature strip glued to the barrel and will stop shooting when it exceeds 120 F.). And primers vary quite a bit. If i delete the worst three or five outliers from the LabRadar, SD comes down to the 2-7 range. I believe some of my outliers and the cause of the higher than desired ES is getting in a hurry and heating up the barrel. The inevitable breaks for target changes at a public range also cause the barrel to cool down to ambient temp, and is possibly another cause for speed variation.

Also been reading the latest Bryan Litz book, and he found clear evidence (and published the data) that his barrels sped up for the first 25 round after barrel cleaning, so firing 2 or 3 “foulers” are not really enough. (He initially thought that was caused by the necks getting work hardened which could increase effective neck tension/unseating force; but that was proven wrong, and annealing did not help much - a real surprise.) So a recently cleaned barrel and the slow rate of fouling is another source of speed variation. Part of the reason that i like shooting with a dirty barrel. Btw: My first shot is often an outlier, usually 20-30 slower than the average for the batch. Any idea why?

So two questions:

1) How do you guys get ES below 20 fps? And is that typical or not?

2) Why is the first shot almost always slower?

Keen to learn something new!