Night Vision Old ATN Thor 336 3x - Thoughts or experience?

[Hollywood 6mm]

I had a friend offer to let me borrow their older ATN ThoR 336 3x 30hz thermal for a while for some coyote hunting. The manual was pretty sparse, and trying to find any info on accessories has been tricky. I did find a riser for the included mount, though, to make it work better on an AR, and have one on the way.

Are there any other accessories out there for this thing? I'd love to have an external battery pack, but this thing doesn't have a USB power in. Any tips or tricks I should be aware of?

 

[wigwamitus]

The olde original G1 ATN thermals are the only ones worth having. I have an ODIN from that generation and while its been surpassed by critters like the Patrol, I ran the ODIN on my head for 2 years and would use it again. I couldn't sell it for what its worth to me. So I keep it and even use it now and then to make sure it still works.
So, general tips and tricks, same as any thermal. Adjust the brightness and match to the conditions. Invert between white hot and black hot to to see which gives you the best image for the conditions and be prepared to invert back and forth if you are unsure about PID. Sometimes the black or white will give you a little different look than the other. So if in doubt I invert.
And nuc the sh^t out of it.
The ODIN does not have a manual focus, but I think the Thor's do, so make sure to focus also.
So in general play with the controls to optimize your image and when in doubt nuc, so you don't wish you had when you have a yote in sight.
You might want to zero at 50 yds ... which depending on your gun will give you a double zero around 200yds ... which will give you a PBR between those distances at least, which is probably the distance you'll get most of your yotes.
These units are long out of warranty and I don't think ATN will repair them any more. So, use 'em till they break and then toss 'em in the trash as far as I know. But my ODIN still works and I plan to use it until it doesn't!

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

The olde original G1 ATN thermals are the only ones worth having. I have an ODIN from that generation and while its been surpassed by critters like the Patrol, I ran the ODIN on my head for 2 years and would use it again. I couldn't sell it for what its worth to me. So I keep it and even use it now and then to make sure it still works.
So, general tips and tricks, same as any thermal. Adjust the brightness and match to the conditions. Invert between white hot and black hot to to see which gives you the best image for the conditions and be prepared to invert back and forth if you are unsure about PID. Sometimes the black or white will give you a little different look than the other. So if in doubt I invert.
And nuc the sh^t out of it.
The ODIN does not have a manual focus, but I think the Thor's do, so make sure to focus also.
So in general play with the controls to optimize your image and when in doubt nuc, so you don't wish you had when you have a yote in sight.
You might want to zero at 50 yds ... which depending on your gun will give you a double zero around 200yds ... which will give you a PBR between those distances at least, which is probably the distance you'll get most of your yotes.
These units are long out of warranty and I don't think ATN will repair them any more. So, use 'em till they break and then toss 'em in the trash as far as I know. But my ODIN still works and I plan to use it until it doesn't!

Yeah, I have been running a RDS and IR laser zeroed at 50 with a PVS-14 on a helmet for the same reasons you listed. Now that this thing fell in my lap, I will use the 14 on my weak side on my helmet, with the Thor on the rifle. I'm going to move an IR illuminator to my helmet to help with scanning with NV and keep an IR laser on the rifle as a backup, then confirm ID and shoot with the thermal.

This does have a manually adjustable focus since it's the 3x model (the 1x didn't). Thankfully, I am familiar with thermals in general, but this is the first handheld/weapon mounted one I have had. The ones I used to work with are a bit too big to carry around.

 

[wigwamitus]

... RDS and IR laser zeroed at 50 with a PVS-14 on a helmet ...

... move an IR illuminator to my helmet ..

... shoot with the thermal ...

Very similar to what I do.

==

... The ones I used to work with are a bit too big to carry around ...

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

Very similar to what I do.

==

The real fun starts when you can tell how high the water is in a water tower from over a mile away, and pick up people from several miles...

But that bastard weighs a couple hundred pounds and is in the 7 digits on price tag. A bit out of my budget.

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

I got the Thor out to the range yesterday. Shiny chrome spraypaint worked like a champ to zero at 50 yards, and I was able to detect and hit steel out to 200 yards with it. Didn't get to see any coyotes (and didn't try warming up any targets), so I didn't get to really push the detection range of the thermal, but so far I would say it works well enough for close/mid-range work. Looking at the "ballistic" reticle, I have no idea what the drop markings are supposed to be - but they're huge. I ended up doing the crosshair + dot reticle and zeroing at 50. I'm using 50gr Federal at ~3120 out of my 18", so I figure ~250 and in is pretty safe on coyotes.

 

[wigwamitus]

For pure distance detection, try the moon tonight ... at 239,000 miles ... most thermals can see it most of the time

==
But back to earth, sounds like you're ready. Yeah some of the trijicon reticles have 5 or 10 mil subtensions ... good for artillery ranging in the olden days when I was in ... or semi-useful for ranging or holding for movers even now.

 

[Hollywood 6mm]

For pure distance detection, try the moon tonight ... at 239,000 miles ... most thermals can see it most of the time

==
But back to earth, sounds like you're ready. Yeah some of the trijicon reticles have 5 or 10 mil subtensions ... good for artillery ranging in the olden days when I was in ... or semi-useful for ranging or holding for movers even now.

Yeah, guessing with the old Mk1 Eyeball compared to a full size head flapper at 100 yards, I would say the first hash under center is ~3-4MIL - way more than I'd actually need with those little 50s screaming out of my gasser.