Gunsmithing Opening up bolt handle inlet on manners PRS1

[King_beardsly]

I need to open up the bolt handle inlet to go from a TL3 to a RimX, I contacted manners about it and they suggested I do it myself instead of sending it in since it’s a simple process. Now I’m pretty sure I could do the process but I’m looking for some insight on weather or not it do it, my concern is some how messing up the carbon shell.

 

[Easy_E]

We open them up all the time with a sanding drum in a dremel tool . Does the inlet need moved or just bumped a small amount ?

 

[King_beardsly]

We open them up all the time with a sanding drum in a dremel tool . Does the inlet need moved or just bumped a small amount ?

Just need to bump it .25”-5” to clear the bolt hands angle rearward

 

[Ericsl2]

I used a dremel as well. Super easy to do. Sand just a little, then drop the bolt handle on a piece of paper and give it a pull to see when you have sanded enough to make sure the bolt fully closes. I took just a dab of paint and blotted the sanded area to cover up the white color left behind

 

[King_beardsly]

I used a dremel as well. Super easy to do. Sand just a little, then drop the bolt handle on a piece of paper and give it a pull to see when you have sanded enough to make sure the bolt fully closes. I took just a dab of paint and blotted the sanded area to cover up the white color left behind

Seems easy enough, any specific paint or just your basics black acrylic

 

[Ericsl2]

Seems easy enough, any specific paint or just your basics black acrylic

I used spray paint.. sprayed a pool on the ground, then used a sponge to blot it to match the pattern manners used. Blended very well

 

[Mike Casselton]

I used spray paint.. sprayed a pool on the ground, then used a sponge to blot it to match the pattern manners used. Blended very well

I spray the paint into paper bowls. Less messy and no dirt or grime in the paint.

 

[King_beardsly]

Well that was mildly terrifying, but it’s opened up and smoothed out. I completely understand estimated how tough the outer shell is, so I had to bust out the home smith’s favorite thing… the dremel took of doom

 

[Aftermath]

I use a very thin layer of epoxy on any stock modifications. It's basically what is used for fiberglass/carbon fiber anyway. If you get the pour on stuff, like what is used to make table tops, it's already a very thin mixture but any epoxy will work.

 

[King_beardsly]

I use a very thin layer of epoxy on any stock modifications. It's basically what is used for fiberglass/carbon fiber anyway. If you get the pour on stuff, like what is used to make table tops, it's already a very thin mixture but any epoxy will work.

I’m having manners send me out the paint they use for the stock work, but I’ll still look at the epoxy

 

[308pirate]

I’m having manners send me out the paint they use for the stock work, but I’ll still look at the epoxy

The epoxy isn't to give the reworked area a pretty color. It's to provide a hard, durable shell over any portion where the stock fill was exposed.

 

[King_beardsly]

I’ll epoxy and paint it then

 

[LRI]

How I do it:

Make sure to comment on my fat head being in the way half the time. I'm just grateful that at 50+, I still have hair there.

The trick I'm most fond of is a tube of "Prussian Blue" high spot indicator. You brush some onto the sides/bottom of the handle, and where you see a blue smear on the stock, you remove it with a die grinder. NOTE: You do NOT have to spin a tool at ludicrous speed to do this.

I like using a double diamond pattern carbide tool as it removes stock efficiently and avoids pulling or trying to take off on you. Plus, you can create a tight radius which is nice so that the inlet doesn't look like a smashed asshole when finished. You can buy these at most hardware stores for a few bucks. They are sold as tools for cutting ceramic tile.

That'll get you through the roughing portion. A good set of needle files to finish is the best way I've found to put the final touch on the job.

Good luck, and remember: Measure twice and cut once.

 

[308pirate]

Measure twice and cut once.

Wait, what? You mean there's a different way than letting the tool run away from you and then filling up the fuckup with epoxy putty?

 

[boomslang]

Patience and a dremel tool.

I opened up the bolt handle inlet on a manners a few years ago and the result wasn’t pretty, but I am not known for my patience nor dremel skills apparently.

EDIT
I tried to find a picture so I could show off my handy work with a dremel, but I must have deleted them out of shame and self-disgust once I got a replacement from Manners.

 

[Aftermath]

+1 on the Prussian Blue but I use some stuff called inletting black. It serves the same purpose. You can also use a dry erase marker, it's not as visible but it also doesn't get all over everything.

 

[Mike Casselton]

I've cheated by placing tape over a correct relief and then pencil rubbing over it.
Transfer that to the stock you're modifying and cut away the piece of tape where the handle cutout is.
Now you have lines to follow.
Do the straight down removal first like Chad did, then clear away the spots that the handle rubs on.

Here's a B&C M-40 that the rear of the handle contacted the back end of the cutout.

Run it down, and press the handle into contact.

Clean up and straighten the contact areas. Done.