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Paint for steel targets

stello1001

Professional Newb
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 20, 2017
    4,125
    2,908
    Corpus Christi TX
    What is everyone using? I had a bottle of some kickass industrial paint in color orange that my neighbor gave me. I just finished using it all up. I also have white, and high visibility yellow. However, those two are not industrial and do not seem to paint my target very well. I have to do a lot of layers and as a result, my paint takes a long time to dry.

    It seems the answer to my problem is to use industrial paint but I never seem to find that stuff anywhere. I like to use white or hi-vis yellow, and do a water line in Orange. That industrial paint covered up the target and previous impacts really well without having to go over them a million times.

    Anyone care to share the paints you all use and where to find them? I could care less for the colors, so long as they are bright and fluorescent, or "hi-vis" as they call them.


    Another question on steel targets...
    I want to buy a 75% IPSC for long range use, I was thinking 1000Y or more if I ever master that distance. I want to go with AR500 @ 1/4 inch in thickness. Should I just play it safe and go 3/8s or is the 1/4 good enough for that distance? I only shoot 6.5CM and don't have buddies that shoot harder hitting rounds, or don't have buddies at all lol...

    Thanks...
     
    IMG_20191230_184901_312.jpg


    So that's my Hi-Vis yellow and as you can see, it sucks. Great theory though, a bright yellow, should be great for shooting at. Not so great in actual practice. The Orange though, different story. It's too bad I ran out of it.

    20200104_171704.jpg


    And then that's my white & orange... I'll look at Amazon and look for that primer paint as well as the acrylic enamel. It's probably better I look online than any store local to me.

    Thanks for the suggestions.

    If anybody has anything else to add, I'd appreciate it...
     
    My 7 saum kinda dented my 1/4 AR500 plate at 1000 yards.

    260 did nothing to it at that distance.

    For my mile targets I use regular 1/4 steel.

    I actually rarely paint my steel but my friends complain and they paint them.
     
    There is a definite difference in rattle can pain quality. The Rustoleum Paint+primer combo is pretty good stuff. I haven’t tried them all, but compared to Krylon paint+Primer, which is like water in cold weather, it’s a big improvement.
     
    My 7 saum kinda dented my 1/4 AR500 plate at 1000 yards.

    260 did nothing to it at that distance.

    For my mile targets I use regular 1/4 steel.

    I actually rarely paint my steel but my friends complain and they paint them.

    Seems like my 6.5 launching 140s @ 2725 ish will be okay to use with 1/4 @ 1000 then...
     
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    Reactions: TACC and 65x55guy
    My 7 saum kinda dented my 1/4 AR500 plate at 1000 yards.

    260 did nothing to it at that distance.

    For my mile targets I use regular 1/4 steel.

    I actually rarely paint my steel but my friends complain and they paint them.
    Mild steel holds up at 1760? Did you try any at 1000?
     
    I use Rustoleum because it covers well. The 99-cent stuff was like pouring dishwater on the plates - it was about that color and dripped off.

    Biggest problem I've had with Rustoleum - any brand, really - is paint drying in the spray nozzle and rendering useless the can and whatever paint is left. I've tried turning the can upside down and purging the nozzle that way, but, with the last two cans I bought (white and red), that didn't work - it just kept spraying even upside down.

    So latest thing to try is pulling the spray nozzle off and dropping it into a small, sealed jar of paint thinner for a couple of hours.
     
    Rust-Oleum 2X coverage paint/primer is the best bang for the buck. Ace hardware has it on sale about every three months (cheaper than Walmart), and that's when I stock up. Plus my local Ace Hardware offers a 20% military/veteran discount.

    Easy to see groups at 700-yards.

    IMG_20191017_125427111.jpg
     
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    I've been using Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover flat white primer. It covers well and doesn't run like Krylon. To clear the nozzle I turn the can upside down and spray for a 5 count. It looks like paint is still coming out, but the nozzle stays clear. I've done it this way for the last few cans. I've been getting it at Amazon. I mostly shoot rimfire.


    IMG_4180.jpg
     
    That's what I was doing. I mean I'm just gonna shoot it up. But I've realized it doesn't cover my previous impacts well enough and hasn't worked well enough for me...

    I’m surprised at that with you being in Texas. We have a hard time with that up here because it’s always balls ass cold.

    Out of all the cheap paint, the Walmart stuff seems the best. The dollar store stuff is awful.
     
    I’m surprised at that with you being in Texas. We have a hard time with that up here because it’s always balls ass cold.

    Out of all the cheap paint, the Walmart stuff seems the best. The dollar store stuff is awful.

    Surprisingly enough, that hi-vis yellow is from Wal-Mart...

    And it's also the one the one that has sucked the most for me lol... :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
     
    We keep this stored outside year round. You know we have it rock bottom when we brag that we use nothing but the best spray paint on a sillhoute steel target.

     
    I use the cheapest white paint menards has. You’re just gona make like a porn star and blow that shit off anyways....

    I tip the can upside down and spray until the paint clears out. Generally I run out of aerosol (or whatever it’s called) before it dries shut. I leave them in my truck year round. Works well, dries just fine. I’ll spray than put an orange target sticker on it. Worst case it drys in the wet paint. Rustoleum I believe is what it is. The cheapest I can find
     
    I’ve been using Rustoleum upside down marking paint in white and hi-vis orange. Great coverage. After reading this thread, I’m going to try their flat white 2x primer as suggested.
     
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    I have been using neon pink on the far targets and you can spot hits easier than on white.
     
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    I don't paint the targets in the open from 100-1000...unless they are in or near a bush...then they get painted pink...because what man can't see pink in a bush?

    If I weren't lazy...and painted my targets...I'd use orange surveyor paint....it works great...has a high velocity nozzle...and is cheap.
     
    I don't paint the targets in the open from 100-1000...unless they are in or near a bush...then they get painted pink...because what man can't see pink in a bush?

    If I weren't lazy...and painted my targets...I'd use orange surveyor paint....it works great...has a high velocity nozzle...and is cheap.

    I'm not entirely sure which paint specifically my cousin gave me, but I'd have to assume it's that orange surveyor paint you talk about. I know for sure the can says "industrial" somewhere on it...

    Works real damn good but I'm out of it already. Those cans also make for great targets once their emptied out...
     
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    Looks like a nice solution for giving a “center” to aim for.

    Yup, those look fucking useful haha. Before, I would just paint my target a solid color. Then, I added a waterline and noticed it helped a lot and shrunk my groups. Now, I'm doing a vertical and horizontal line just like a cross. It works real good so you can lineup your reticle to that and be more consistent with your POA. I noticed it worked really good for me.

    Those magnetic stencils should work in the same way...
     
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    I'm not sure what you mean by industrial.. but I'm sure USAbluebook would have it. I've used marking paint (water based paint) and it works alright. I normally use Ace brand paint because its what I've got in town.
     
    I'm not sure what you mean by industrial.. but I'm sure USAbluebook would have it. I've used marking paint (water based paint) and it works alright. I normally use Ace brand paint because its what I've got in town.

    That's just what the can says on it so I'm assuming it's something designed for use in refineries, pipelines, etc for safety purposes or marking certain things.
     
    Rust-Oleum 2X coverage white is the fastest. Turn upside down and spray to clear the nozzle and straw for storage.
    White marking paint works fairly fast, hold can vertical, nozzle up to clear, and they store longer term.
     
    I don't paint the targets in the open from 100-1000...unless they are in or near a bush...then they get painted pink...because what man can't see pink in a bush?

    If I weren't lazy...and painted my targets...I'd use orange surveyor paint....it works great...has a high velocity nozzle...and is cheap.
    I am a surveyor and agree, the orange and green "upside down" paint works the best on all surfaces.
     
    White Striping paint, the kind you spray upside down. Comes out thick and wide.

    If you really want to see impacts spray your target with black and then white plastidip. It's like a reverse shoot-n-see.
     
    Rust-Oleum marking paint. Covers well in all conditions (including wet and cold).
     
    Striping paint inverted comes out heavy and thick and covers the target well. For me the yellow striping paint works best and you can see your impacts at distance. The rustoleum 2x with primer covers very well too. White isn't too good in the NW in a bright day/snow background. Works fine in the summer.
     
    How do these hold up over time? Does the paint build up on the magnets making them less prone to stick to the plates? Seems messy to get them off if ones in a hurry ... my range has 50 or so plates to paint.

    Not sure. Just got them.
    As far as mess get a pair of latex or leather gloves. Your gonna get paint on yourself anyway anytime you use spray paint.
     
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    Not sure. Just got them.
    As far as mess get a pair of latex or leather gloves. Your gonna get paint on yourself anyway anytime you use spray paint.

    yup ... I carry a can of Hopes wipes to get the paint off my hands when I forget the gloves ... also have baby wipes in the range bag.