Perfect die depth
- Thread starter Savage15
- Start date
Re: Perfect die depth
If you are full length sizing smoke shoulder of the cases with a lighter, and adjust the die down in small increments until it just starts wiping the soot of the neck.
Getting a micrometer case guage helps also.
When neck sizing, I have used a sharpe to color up the neck down to the shoulder junction.
Adjust the neck die until it starts to get to the shoulder.
If you are full length sizing smoke shoulder of the cases with a lighter, and adjust the die down in small increments until it just starts wiping the soot of the neck.
Getting a micrometer case guage helps also.
When neck sizing, I have used a sharpe to color up the neck down to the shoulder junction.
Adjust the neck die until it starts to get to the shoulder.
Re: Perfect die depth
Just buy a Hornady HeadSpace Gauge, use it with your dial calipers, measure a fired decapped case, and adjust the FL die until the HeadSpace Gauge reads .001 less for bolt guns, and .003 less for semi autos, if your a cheap redneck a decapped 40sw case will work for the 308 family of cases.
Just buy a Hornady HeadSpace Gauge, use it with your dial calipers, measure a fired decapped case, and adjust the FL die until the HeadSpace Gauge reads .001 less for bolt guns, and .003 less for semi autos, if your a cheap redneck a decapped 40sw case will work for the 308 family of cases.
Re: Perfect die depth
Try just a little and then run it in the rifle.
The idea is to size just enough to get an easy bolt closing.
If it doesn't close easily then add a little more to the die.
Don't forget the sizing lube either.
I say all of this in respect to a bolt rifle, because the point is to size just enough for reliable function, but not over working the case thereby using up the potential lifespan.
If it is an auto loader then full resizing is considered better.
Screwing the die down until it touches the shell holder and then backing it off a little is the typical method.
Try just a little and then run it in the rifle.
The idea is to size just enough to get an easy bolt closing.
If it doesn't close easily then add a little more to the die.
Don't forget the sizing lube either.
I say all of this in respect to a bolt rifle, because the point is to size just enough for reliable function, but not over working the case thereby using up the potential lifespan.
If it is an auto loader then full resizing is considered better.
Screwing the die down until it touches the shell holder and then backing it off a little is the typical method.
Re: Perfect die depth
Bumping the shoulder is about function, not accuracy....unless you are really over-doing it. If you are bumping enough that the bolt closes without resistance, then that is enough. The benchrest community likes to have a little resistance on the second half of bolt closing, but that is not a good idea for rifles that get dirty. Do some experiments for yourself: shoot strings with the case bumped each amount described above...doubt you will see one bit of difference in the accuracy. But, you will sure see a difference in function and are risking galling your lugs if you don't size enough.
Bumping the shoulder is about function, not accuracy....unless you are really over-doing it. If you are bumping enough that the bolt closes without resistance, then that is enough. The benchrest community likes to have a little resistance on the second half of bolt closing, but that is not a good idea for rifles that get dirty. Do some experiments for yourself: shoot strings with the case bumped each amount described above...doubt you will see one bit of difference in the accuracy. But, you will sure see a difference in function and are risking galling your lugs if you don't size enough.
Re: Perfect die depth
And, if you use the rifle as a gauge...as I do...don't forget the lube in the chamber. Degrease the chamber before you fire for effect.
And, if you use the rifle as a gauge...as I do...don't forget the lube in the chamber. Degrease the chamber before you fire for effect.
