Several guys have asked me how I can take one scope, hit at 100,200,300,400 and 600 yards and never touch the scope adjustment knobs so I have decided to write up the procedure to help out other guys that don’t have the bucks in this economy to drop $1200.00+ on a MILDOT rig.
The absolute cheapest way I know to get a set up where you can hit reliably from 600 to 800 yards is by using a NC Star 2X pistol scope. They sell for $40.00 to 45.00 at gun shows/ebay etc. Assuming you have the right barrel contour you can get a scope base for $10.00 and rings for about $12.00 and you are good to go.
I make up rifles I call Swamp Guns which basically start with a No 7 Contour barrel that has seen lots of good rounds in highpower competition. I basically cut off an inch from breech end, rethread and rechamber and I am into almost new rifling. Then I measure about 10 inches down barrel and do a abrupt diameter reduction to .840”. I then straight turn it .840 all the way to the muzzle.
After screwing the barrel on I drill and tap the barrel for a Weaver No 98 base four places. The 98 is for the Thompson Contender Super 14 barrel which is .840” all the way down. Weaver high rings make up the final part so you have about $70.00 in scope, base and mounts.
If you have a tapered barrel you can get a Scout Rifle base from Brownell’s for about 26.00 that utilize the front action holes and will require drilling the barrel to mount the front end.
Now for the sight in. I utilized the top of the six o’clock post as first aim point and I zero it to deliver POA/POI at 600 yards. Once you have a firm zero, check it at 300 yards by using center cross hairs. My combo is close to dead on at 300 yards. Thusly I hold about six inches low at 100, four inches low at 200 on the money at 300 and twelve inches high at 400 and top of post at 600.
Obviously not all rifles will luck out and hit like this so you will have to do some experimenting. Once you are on you should be able to get all zeros in twenty rounds. Some scopes will allow you to use the top of the six o’clock post at 800, cross hairs at 500/600 and bottom of top post at perhaps 150 yards.
Once you get this down and you use the same scope you should be able to get zeros at the mid range with the cross hairs and be very close at the long range and short range as well.
I made up a rather simple drawing to show how the posts are used.
If one reads the directions for using the MILDOT system it will be a short transition to figuring how the posts relate to a 3 foot high target and moving up until the posts touch top and bottom of 36” target. Then utilize the center cross hairs distance to a post to determine longer range and the thickness of the three and nine o’clock posts to determine closer ranges.
All this data can be typed up and taped to the side of your butt stock for quick reference. Use label tape to cover entire label and seal it from weather. Also use darker paper to type this data on.
http://www.superiorbarrels.com/TacticalScopeZerosDoc.pdf
The absolute cheapest way I know to get a set up where you can hit reliably from 600 to 800 yards is by using a NC Star 2X pistol scope. They sell for $40.00 to 45.00 at gun shows/ebay etc. Assuming you have the right barrel contour you can get a scope base for $10.00 and rings for about $12.00 and you are good to go.
I make up rifles I call Swamp Guns which basically start with a No 7 Contour barrel that has seen lots of good rounds in highpower competition. I basically cut off an inch from breech end, rethread and rechamber and I am into almost new rifling. Then I measure about 10 inches down barrel and do a abrupt diameter reduction to .840”. I then straight turn it .840 all the way to the muzzle.
After screwing the barrel on I drill and tap the barrel for a Weaver No 98 base four places. The 98 is for the Thompson Contender Super 14 barrel which is .840” all the way down. Weaver high rings make up the final part so you have about $70.00 in scope, base and mounts.
If you have a tapered barrel you can get a Scout Rifle base from Brownell’s for about 26.00 that utilize the front action holes and will require drilling the barrel to mount the front end.
Now for the sight in. I utilized the top of the six o’clock post as first aim point and I zero it to deliver POA/POI at 600 yards. Once you have a firm zero, check it at 300 yards by using center cross hairs. My combo is close to dead on at 300 yards. Thusly I hold about six inches low at 100, four inches low at 200 on the money at 300 and twelve inches high at 400 and top of post at 600.
Obviously not all rifles will luck out and hit like this so you will have to do some experimenting. Once you are on you should be able to get all zeros in twenty rounds. Some scopes will allow you to use the top of the six o’clock post at 800, cross hairs at 500/600 and bottom of top post at perhaps 150 yards.
Once you get this down and you use the same scope you should be able to get zeros at the mid range with the cross hairs and be very close at the long range and short range as well.
I made up a rather simple drawing to show how the posts are used.
If one reads the directions for using the MILDOT system it will be a short transition to figuring how the posts relate to a 3 foot high target and moving up until the posts touch top and bottom of 36” target. Then utilize the center cross hairs distance to a post to determine longer range and the thickness of the three and nine o’clock posts to determine closer ranges.
All this data can be typed up and taped to the side of your butt stock for quick reference. Use label tape to cover entire label and seal it from weather. Also use darker paper to type this data on.
http://www.superiorbarrels.com/TacticalScopeZerosDoc.pdf
