Gunsmithing Preskimbed dry fitting.

[goodgorilla]

Just to make sure I got this strait. When you drop the action into the stock, you put your fingers on each side of the barrel just in front of the recoil lug to feel if the action takes any odd movements. If you have an odd movement, then that means the stock is making contact with the action in a place other than the pillars which would mean you have to remove some material somewhere. Another test is after dropping the action into the stock, you do a similar test where you have your fingers in the same location while tightening the action screws. If the action gets sucked into the stock while tightening the action screws, that means the stock is making contact in a place other than the pillars.

Also, has anyone used a paint pen to see where the contact is being made? Someone suggested to me to mark the action and drop it into the stock to see where the paint ends up.

 

[jsthntn247]

I sure wish someone would resurect Roscoe's old bedding sticky with all the orignal photo's. I think that was the best thread ever on this site.

 

[xs hedspace]

Paint pen would work. I use soot from a candle flame on the action to mark wood stocks for inletting. Or you could just hog out 1/8" from the stock, wrap three layers of electrical tape around the barrel, and drop it into the epoxy, with action screws barely finger tight. I wrap teflon plumbers tape around the action screws, two layers, to ensure clearance around the screws after the bedding cures, and it keeps the epoxy away from the screws. Don't forget the wax release coat on all metal, and tape on the sides and front of the recoil lug for clearance. Play dough around the trigger mechanism. Cut away excess epoxy when half cured, wiping gets messy. Brief summary.

 

[goodgorilla]

Paint pen would work. I use soot from a candle flame on the action to mark wood stocks for inletting. Or you could just hog out 1/8" from the stock, wrap three layers of electrical tape around the barrel, and drop it into the epoxy, with action screws barely finger tight. I wrap teflon plumbers tape around the action screws, two layers, to ensure clearance around the screws after the bedding cures, and it keeps the epoxy away from the screws. Don't forget the wax release coat on all metal, and tape on the sides and front of the recoil lug for clearance. Play dough around the trigger mechanism. Cut away excess epoxy when half cured, wiping gets messy. Brief summary.

I wanted to take out some material but some McMillan smiths convinced me to do a skim bed instead (I will be using a McMillan a5). I will at least do some minor sanding to ruff up the surface some, but I will avoid the pillars.

 

[xs hedspace]

OK, some roughing up is needed, but I'd still do the teflon tape on the screws, and just barely snug them up while curing. You don't want to stress the action--and do the tape spacer around the barrel, for alignment.

 

[goodgorilla]

OK, some roughing up is needed, but I'd still do the teflon tape on the screws, and just barely snug them up while curing. You don't want to stress the action--and do the tape spacer around the barrel, for alignment.

I'm starting to wonder if I should use the marine tex instead of the devcon in case I want to redo the thing if the stress is to high.