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Primer pockets and seating... WTH!?!?

strat81

Misanthropic Realist
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 14, 2009
261
70
Hamilton County, Nebraska
I will preface this by saying I am not a novice reloader. I have tens of thousands of rounds handloaded with 9mm, .38 Special, .44 Mag, .45 ACP, .223 Rem, and 7.62x39. I am new to precision reloading, however.

6.5 Creedmoor Hornady brass is making me lose my mind. This is 1x brass from factory loaded ammo (140gr Match ELD-M) that I shot. I deprimed, cleaned in an ultrasonic, sized with a Forster full-length sizer, and expanded with a Sinclair mandrel die.

I started Thursday night with a brand new Hornady hand priming tool and Federal Gold Medal Match 210M large rifle primers.. I made it through 50 cases and my hands and arms were howling in pain. I'll chalk that up to bad arthritis - maybe a hand tool isn't for me simply because of lack of hand strength and arthritis. Some primed with an amount of effort I expected, others required me to push the tool into the table with my body weight for them to seat flush. Some were still slightly proud (they'd wiggle if placed on a flat machined surface).

So on Friday, I tried priming on press with my LNL AP. Stopped after 10. More than half weren't seating below flush. But, the LNL AP is notorious for not seating primers deeply enough.

So, I mounted up my old Lee Classic Turret with a Lee Safety Prime. That's the press I have the most experience with and the only time I had trouble priming was if a crimped primer pocket snuck into the mix. Otherwise, a gentle shove seated primers with no trouble.

SWEET BABY JESUS. I *STILL* had problems seating these damn things. At times I was pushing hard enough to lift my entire reloading bench (an NRMA bench with all of my bullets and powder stored in it, so it's quite heavy). I ended up tossing about 10 of them that would not seat flush, at all, and got stuck in the shell holder. Know what kills time? Having to put on eye and ear pro, put the shellholder with stuck brass into a vise and gently hammer the shellholder off, hoping the primer doesn't detonate.

I mic'd the primers, all came in at .211" +/- .0005. I checked to make sure that I didn't have some kind of oddball Hornady CM brass with small primers - nope, small primers fell right out. I chamfered the pockets slightly using a Hornady primer pocket reamer that's normally used to remove the crimp from military brass. I tried seating some CCI 200 LRPs, same problems.

In summary:
-I used three different methods (Hornady hand tool, Hornady LNL AP, Lee Classic Turret)
-I used two different brands of primers
-I chamfered the pockers using a mil crimp remover

No matter what, seating effort and seating depth varied wildly.

Before I set fire to my reloading room... anyone have any other suggestions? Did I forget a simple step?
 
Your process sounds much like mine and I did not experience the trouble you describe. I gave up on Hornady brass though because I could only get 2 or 3 reloads before the primer pockets got too loose. I now use Lapua (srp) brass. Costs more but lasts longer. I use a Frankford Arsenal Platinum hand primer but am not thrilled with it as the primer seating stem doesn’t align well with the primer pocket.
 
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friends dont let friends shoot honady brass or bullets!

i shot 2 barrels with hornady brass and never had the issue your having...sounds to me like the holes are tapered smaller at the top or are not deep enough...have you checked the depth of the holes?
 
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Stop US cleaning your brass. The process dries out the metal to the point it’s hard to seat bullets and primers. Brass needs a film of wax or graphite in areas where you’re going to plug using friction. Most cleaning processes leave something on the case that does not hinder priming or seating. US cleaning looks cool but it sucks.
 
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Stop US cleaning your brass. The process dries out the metal to the point it’s hard to seat bullets and primers. Brass needs a film of wax or graphite in areas where you’re going to plug using friction. Most cleaning processes leave something on the case that does not hinder priming or seating. US cleaning looks cool but it sucks.
This

Don't use ultrasonic on brass
Tumble in dry media (I use corncob on my hornady 6.5 brass) I've seated thousands of primers in hornady brass with 0 issues.

I also use the Frankford arsenal platinum hand primer and it's butter smooth.
 
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friends dont let friends shoot honady brass or bullets!


I'm guessing you haven't shot the new 230gr Hornady A-Tips at over 3000fps...it may change your opinion.


To the OP....I'm guessing you never swage your primer pockets or use a uniforming tool...sometimes the Hornady primer pockets can be a little out of round and cause things to be....difficult.
 
friends dont let friends shoot honady brass or bullets!

i shot 2 barrels with hornady brass and never had the issue your having...sounds to me like the holes are tapered smaller at the top or are not deep enough...have you checked the depth of the holes?

I checked some of the remaining pieces of unprimed brass and saw variances of .002". I don't know if that's good or bad, but I had primer protrusion of way more than that.

Stop US cleaning your brass. The process dries out the metal to the point it’s hard to seat bullets and primers. Brass needs a film of wax or graphite in areas where you’re going to plug using friction. Most cleaning processes leave something on the case that does not hinder priming or seating. US cleaning looks cool but it sucks.

I've used the ultrasonic for literally tens of thousands pieces of 9mm, .45 ACP, and .223 brass and have never had a problem like this.

I am curious as to the effects on velocity and SD as it pertains to case necks and neck tension. But the primer doesn't leave the case, so how tight it is in the pocket shouldn't have a material effect on performance. I agree that it might require slightly more force to seat a primer in a piece of US-cleaned brass versus corncob-cleaned brass, but not so much force that I'm lifting an entire reloading bench off the floor.

To the OP....I'm guessing you never swage your primer pockets or use a uniforming tool...sometimes the Hornady primer pockets can be a little out of round and cause things to be....difficult.
I do not. With military .223, brass, I'll deprime and use some kind of cutting tool to chamfer the pocket and remove the crimp. I used the RCBS brass chamfer tool the most, but switching to the Hornady tool since it bottoms out in the pocket while the RCBS tool does not.
 
Stop US cleaning your brass. The process dries out the metal to the point it’s hard to seat bullets and primers. Brass needs a film of wax or graphite in areas where you’re going to plug using friction. Most cleaning processes leave something on the case that does not hinder priming or seating. US cleaning looks cool but it sucks.
Thinking about this some more, this was the first batch of brass I've ever cleaned that was deprimed first. I usually only US-clean once. To remove lube, I put the sized and lubed brass in a bucket, spray them with some brake cleaner, shake gently, add some acetone, shake, then roll them on a towel.
 
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I'm guessing you haven't shot the new 230gr Hornady A-Tips at over 3000fps...it may change your opinion.


To the OP....I'm guessing you never swage your primer pockets or use a uniforming tool...sometimes the Hornady primer pockets can be a little out of round and cause things to be....difficult.

actually my buddy shoots the 135g A tips and they've done nothing to change my mind or make me want to try them......if they are working for you thats great...id buy customs before id pay that much.
 
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I'm guessing you haven't shot the new 230gr Hornady A-Tips at over 3000fps...it may change your opinion.


To the OP....I'm guessing you never swage your primer pockets or use a uniforming tool...sometimes the Hornady primer pockets can be a little out of round and cause things to be....difficult.

Show us your pipe... Not the meth one.
I envy you, kinda. I'll just keep saving for my NF glass for my 6.5PRC.
 
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Show us your pipe... Not the meth one.
I envy you, kinda. I'll just keep saving for my NF glass for my 6.5PRC.

There are some pics over on the 300PRC thread.....and I'm saving for new glass as well....at this point I'm waiting for the Black Friday sales.

Next year...I'm looking closely at building a 6.5PRC....haven't shot one yet...but from a nerdy spec point of view....looks like my style.

BTW... ~3040fps with the 230gr A-Tips took an over the published limit of 80 grains of Retumbo...through a 28" 1-9tw Bartlein.
 
There are some pics over on the 300PRC thread.....and I'm saving for new glass as well....at this point I'm waiting for the Black Friday sales.

Next year...I'm looking closely at building a 6.5PRC....haven't shot one yet...but from a nerdy spec point of view....looks like my style.

BTW... ~3040fps with the 230gr A-Tips took an over the published limit of 80 grains of Retumbo...through a 28" 1-9tw Bartlein.

curious what was you dope at 1000yds?
 
curious what was you dope at 1000yds?

And now I gotta get my lazy fat ass up and go downstairs and grab my dope book.....

Location: Thunder Valley Precision
Temp: 72F
Humidity: 61%
Elevation: 994 feet ASL
Wind: dead calm

4DOF told me 4.86 MIL...Dialed 4.9 and hit slightly high on plate...which is most likely failure to input shooting direction, elevation to target slope...or simply...and most probably...ME.

I only had 5 rounds at the 80gr Retumbo charge...so I can't give you dope on the longer targets...nor the shorter targets...just 100 and 1000.
 
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And now I gotta get my lazy fat ass up and go downstairs and grab my dope book.....

Location: Thunder Valley Precision
Temp: 72F
Humidity: 61%
Elevation: 994 feet ASL
Wind: dead calm

4DOF told me 4.86 MIL...Dialed 4.9 and hit slightly high on plate...which is most likely failure to input shooting direction, elevation to target slope...or simply...and most probably...ME.

I only had 5 rounds at the 80gr Retumbo charge...so I can't give you dope on the longer targets...nor the shorter targets...just 100 and 1000.

nice...i was 6.1 at 1082 and 4.9 at 925 with a 105 hybrid at 3230...never shot an exact 1000 so not sure there.
 
I use a 21st Century click adjustable priming tool because, like you, I didnt like the lack of control of priming depth. Hand loading primers one at a time is slower but you cant beat the control and feel. I also wet tumble and have no issue seating primers. It seems like a lot of money, but IMO it was worth it. It is my second favorite piece of reloading equipment next to my Giraud trimmer.