• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Primer seater

https://www.hollandguns.com/m7/H-PPS-CU--hollands-perfect-primer-seater-complete-unit.html

This unit has been around for a long time too.

1674428778532.png


But there are so many ways to skin this cat that I suggest you narrow down the request or you are going to hear about everything from stone age methods to progressive machines.
 
Last edited:
Another vote for the RCBS bench priming tool . I also use the Frankfort hand tool when I need to finish one that did not feel quite right .
 
https://www.hollandguns.com/m7/H-PPS-CU--hollands-perfect-primer-seater-complete-unit.html

This unit has been around for a long time too.

View attachment 8054773

But there are so many ways to skin this cat that I suggest you narrow down the request or you are going to hear about everything from stone age methods to progressive machines.
old retired guy with limited funds and severe arthritis here. without dropping the big bucks on the primal CPS primer seater, is this Hollands modified RCBS about the only other way to go for a precise bench mounted primer press? anyone have experience with other quality bench systems? there doesn't seem to be a lot of bench mounted options out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Schütze
old retired guy with limited funds and severe arthritis here. without dropping the big bucks on the primal CPS primer seater, is this Hollands modified RCBS about the only other way to go for a precise bench mounted primer press? anyone have experience with other quality bench systems? there doesn't seem to be a lot of bench mounted options out there.
Multiple threads on this and the short answer is no. It's the RCBS bench tool (I've had mine for decades); if you add the Holland, you're close enough to jump up to the CPS. So RCBS it is for most people with limited funds allocated to primer seating
 
  • Like
Reactions: john smallberries
old retired guy with limited funds and severe arthritis here. without dropping the big bucks on the primal CPS primer seater, is this Hollands modified RCBS about the only other way to go for a precise bench mounted primer press? anyone have experience with other quality bench systems? there doesn't seem to be a lot of bench mounted options out there.
I’m relatively new to reloading, so take this with a grain of salt.
Other than the FA hand primer I recently got a lee ACP bench primer press and I’m very happy with it. There are some YouTube videos from f-class John on it that convinced me to get one.
But operating can get a little finicky if you are not technically inclined.
Seating deep is very consistent due to not using a shell holder.
Rod goes in the case and pushes against the inside of the case head. Consistent primer feeding is a little of a issue but can be made work. The flimsy feeding channel made out of plastic is only $5.00.
I use this for 6br and 6creed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: john smallberries
I use my hornady l-n-l to seat all my primers 9mm, .38super, 45acp, 5.56, 308 win, and .300 norma and store in tubs till needed.
 
old retired guy with limited funds and severe arthritis here. without dropping the big bucks on the primal CPS primer seater, is this Hollands modified RCBS about the only other way to go for a precise bench mounted primer press? anyone have experience with other quality bench systems? there doesn't seem to be a lot of bench mounted options out there.
Well if you have arthritis forget the hand priming, like stated above RCBS bench priming tool, the other bench modified RCBS systems are getting into CPS primer cost.
 
  • Like
Reactions: john smallberries
1677960813365.png

This works for me…..most of the time. I used to have like one in 5 go off during seating ops, but since I switched to the brass hammer, it doesn’t conduct the static electricity between the punch and hammer and now I only loose like 1 in 8. Sure hope primers come back soon! Expensive anymore with the losses.
 
Anything other then a hand primer. I have used the LEE and the RCBS bench primer bother with good results. With the hand primer I wasn't getting the anvils consistently seated on the bottom of the pocket.
 
Been using the rcbs universal hand priming tool with great results for many years
 
  • Love
Reactions: acudaowner
Thanks for all your advice. This is what I ended up doing. It’s an RCBS ram prime with a PMA tools micro die adjuster. It is super easy to dial in and very repeatable. No auto feed , so it’s slow. Easy on the wallet though.
I ended up getting the RCBS ram prime as well, but gave shims a try instead of the PMA micro adjust tool. So this solution costs about $60 ($33 for ram prime, and $25 for shims). Only done about 30 cases so far, but except for one that got seated a little deep (.0095), it's held within .0005". I think once I get technique down it will be just fine. How's your consistency with the PMA tool?

 
  • Like
Reactions: morningsun
The CPS is great for speed, but the Dillon 750 modified with the Armanov index block and the primer cup filed down a few thousandths is honestly amazing. Over the course of several hundred they are all between .004 and .006 below flush.
 
I ended up getting the RCBS ram prime as well, but gave shims a try instead of the PMA micro adjust tool. So this solution costs about $60 ($33 for ram prime, and $25 for shims). Only done about 30 cases so far, but except for one that got seated a little deep (.0095), it's held within .0005". I think once I get technique down it will be just fine. How's your consistency with the PMA tool?


Pretty slick set up JC. I don't have a problem with consistency once the die is set up, while using the PMA die ring. Once it's adjusted and locked down, it provides very consistent results. The shims you're using will probably be a little faster to use for set up. The primers I have measured once the PMA die ring was adjusted and locked down were all within .0005" seated depth, so accurate enough for me! Once the die is locked down, it is pretty much out of the equation, so repeatability is all on the press, shell holders, and the ram prime die. Might have to give the shims a try though! Seems easy enough. Thanks for the tip, and great video!
 
Pretty slick set up JC. I don't have a problem with consistency once the die is set up, while using the PMA die ring. Once it's adjusted and locked down, it provides very consistent results. The shims you're using will probably be a little faster to use for set up. The primers I have measured once the PMA die ring was adjusted and locked down were all within .0005" seated depth, so accurate enough for me! Once the die is locked down, it is pretty much out of the equation, so repeatability is all on the press, shell holders, and the ram prime die. Might have to give the shims a try though! Seems easy enough. Thanks for the tip, and great video!
Thanks! I saw that Lee also has a ram prime that's even a little bit cheaper, but looks a bit beefier..
 
been using the builtin primer seater on my Forster Coax to seat primers. Slow but its one less tool to find space for.
 
like the cheap ass rcbs pot metal hand primer mostly cause there isn't a chance in hell I am paying 600 dollars just to do the same thing as I do while spending 40.00 . I wish I was happier with the franford arsonal hand primer ( it cost a little more money ) but I wasn't as a crushed a few primer trying to set the depth on that thing the rcbs I haven't crushed a one easy clear cut winner . my opinion as little as it is worth .
 
  • Like
Reactions: bforney1984
https://www.hollandguns.com/m7/H-PPS-CU--hollands-perfect-primer-seater-complete-unit.html

This unit has been around for a long time too.

View attachment 8054773

But there are so many ways to skin this cat that I suggest you narrow down the request or you are going to hear about everything from stone age methods to progressive machines.
4AABB71D-4260-4C4B-B31A-3197E2427698.jpeg
Only had the RCBS bench primer tool. Till I added the Hollands kit a few years ago. Been nothing but consistent depth seating. 24B4FE8F-49E2-4B41-B1CB-C90E9DDA5196.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: RegionRat
Dumb this down for me please...
The competition shell holders change the height of the case in the shell holder by .002".. The set has a .002, .004, .006, .008. and .010" shell holder. So you can set up the ram prime with shims so that you seat the primer say .004 below flush using the .002" shell holder (it's the thickest base one). Then to go deeper you can go to the .004" shell holder to get to .006" below flush.. etc.. so keep going up in shell holder from .002" till you get where you want. If you want to refine it up or down .001" then change the thickness of the shim.
 
Frankford Arsenal Perfect Hand Primer, it's consistent, repeatable, and fast, and has foolproof adjustable seating depth too.

I've done ~10,000+ cases with one over the last couple of years and it still looks new and works like the day I got it (for like 70 bucks).
 
Frankford Arsenal Perfect Hand Primer, it's consistent, repeatable, and fast, and has foolproof adjustable seating depth too.

I've done ~10,000+ cases with one over the last couple of years and it still looks new and works like the day I got it (for like 70 bucks).
^^^^^This. Just got one of these. Very fast and easy to use.
 
The competition shell holders change the height of the case in the shell holder by .002".. The set has a .002, .004, .006, .008. and .010" shell holder. So you can set up the ram prime with shims so that you seat the primer say .004 below flush using the .002" shell holder (it's the thickest base one). Then to go deeper you can go to the .004" shell holder to get to .006" below flush.. etc.. so keep going up in shell holder from .002" till you get where you want. If you want to refine it up or down .001" then change the thickness of the shim.
Interesting.. I have comp shell holders for .308 and .223
 
The competition shell holders change the height of the case in the shell holder by .002".. The set has a .002, .004, .006, .008. and .010" shell holder. So you can set up the ram prime with shims so that you seat the primer say .004 below flush using the .002" shell holder (it's the thickest base one). Then to go deeper you can go to the .004" shell holder to get to .006" below flush.. etc.. so keep going up in shell holder from .002" till you get where you want. If you want to refine it up or down .001" then change the thickness of the shim.
Ok

I was under the impression that the comp shell holder only changed the dimensions from the base to the top of the shell holder

And looked like the ram prime referenced the bottom of the shell holder

But I guess the comp holders must be the same outside dimension and the rim groove pushed down into it then 🤔

Now I gotta spend 20 bucks and a month of Sundays experimenting and measuring lol
 
Ok

I was under the impression that the comp shell holder only changed the dimensions from the base to the top of the shell holder

And looked like the ram prime referenced the bottom of the shell holder

But I guess the comp holders must be the same outside dimension and the rim groove pushed down into it then 🤔

Now I gotta spend 20 bucks and a month of Sundays experimenting and measuring lol
The comp shell holders work both ways (on a rockchucker anyway). When you put them on the ram of the RC to use for sizing they change how close the sizing die can get to the base of the shell, so work great to control headspace. So you start big at .010", and the lower you go the more it will be sized = more headspace, till you get where you want. They only really make sense if you are making contact/cam-over with shell holder and die.

When used on top of the ram prime unit (on the rockchucker) you're coming at it from the other direction (fromundah), so it's opposite. The .002 has the thickest base so you start with that one. So if you want .009" below flush, set your primer depth to say .005" using the .002 shell holder (and say a .005" shim if you have those) and lock in your die. Then move to the .004 shell holder and see where that gets you.. move to .006 as needed.. use in conjunction with shims under the ram prime to refine. So if you used a .005" shim go to .004" or .006").. Cheap and easy, and so far pretty reliable... just slow.
 
JCCinOHIO you dont know how competition shellholder works and how priming is done.

Competition shellholders have SAME base dimension, just upper portion is higher:

To provide desirable shellholder-to-die contact during sizing, without excessively setting the case shoulder back, Redding now produces shellholders that are made in increments of .002” deeper than the industry standard. The nominal industry standard depth (dimension X) for shellholders is .125”. The new Competition Shellholder Set includes five shellholders that are deeper than this in increments of .002”. Therefore, the set includes shellholders that are marked +.002, +.004, +.006, +.008 and +.010, which is the amount the shellholder will increase base to shoulder case length and thus decrease shoulder set back and case to chamber headspace. To select the proper shellholder for your particular firearm’s chamber, simply start with the shellholder marked +.010. The shellholder should be adjusted to make firm contact with the bottom of the sizing die during the case sizing operation. Resize a case and try it (unprimed and empty) in the chamber of your firearm. If the empty case does not chamber or chambers with difficulty, switch to the shellholder marked +.008 and repeat the process. Stop at the shellholder that allows the firearm’s action to close freely. Your cases are now being sized properly to fit your chamber with a minimum amount of headspace

 
I haven't measure from the bottom...

But

If the machine work is simple moved deeper into the shell holder vs making the shell holder over all taller then it could serve to change the distance when looking at how the ram prime system mounts into your press...

I'll take measurements this weekend to see of I can tell if over all dimension is taller or just moved machine work down into the holder body.

All this is assuming the ram prime works at full press stroke ad well
 
JCCinOHIO you dont know how competition shellholder works and how priming is done.

Competition shellholders have SAME base dimension, just upper portion is higher:



Actually we're both right... measured it with a Starrett micrometer.... I would post pics if I could (if you haven't gathered by now, I'm cheap)

The .002 and .010 both have a total thickness of .25" (the part that sticks above the ram).. The thickness of the .002 from where it sits on the top of the ram to the top of the 'shelf' that the case face sits on is .123", and the .010 is .115".. .. so .008" difference between the .002 and .010, all in the thickness of the base.. In the Redding link, the dimension of 'X' is changed by raising or lowering the bottom line. Which results in the base being thicker or thinner.

With the shell holder thickness constant at .25, the base is higher or lower. For a given shell holder (say the .004), if you come at it from above to size a case, it limits how far down the case base you can size as pushing down bottoms the case face on the shelf. Coming at it from below for priming with the ram prime, the case rim bottoms out in the bevel of the shell holder where the extractor groove is because you are pushing the case up from below.

I still may not know how priming is done.. but I can get within .0005" of what I want, and that's close enough for me. Measured using Accuracy one micrometer.
 
Last edited:
In the Redding link, the dimension of 'X' is changed by raising or lowering the bottom line

i dont think so. X is changing in UP direction? and bottom is the same ?

can you measure averall height of all shellholders?
 
Last edited:
i dont think so. X is changing, bottom is the same ?
Top of the shell holder is the top.. doesn't change.. The other line is where the base of the case sits.. that line goes up or down. So if you move the face of the case down, without moving the top.. you size less case. Assuming contact and cam-over.
 
Top of the shell holder is the top.. doesn't change.. The other line is where the base of the case sits.. that line goes up or down. So if you move the face of the case down, without moving the top.. you size less case. Assuming contact and cam-over.

yes, it makes sense. every time the same contact and cam-over, and lower brass in the shellholder. better than increasing force of cam-over.

but for precision priming you should measure all primer pockets and all primers, if you want to have the same crush in all brass.
but if you want to have all primers the same dimensions from the bottom of the brass, it can go your way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JCCinOhio
I use the Hornady hand primer if I'm in a hurry. I get the best seat when just using the priming arm on my rcbs press; a bit slower.