• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Primer seating

chadrp

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 12, 2017
396
130
Central Iowa
I'm just starting to seat primers for the first time with new Hornady brass and FGMM large primers on a primal rights seater. I cannot seem to get most of them below flush. I have the occasional .002 deep and the occasional protruding slightly. Measuring the pockets they seem to be about the same depth as the primers. Do I need to get a uniformer so I can cut them a little deeper to get .001- .002 below or just run them? Thanks
 
also type of Brass. I really don't think it should matter. Mine sets the exactly the same ever time
 
You want to be sure to push the anvil into the cup some. Ideally, I go for .001 to .002. My adjustable Frankford Arsenal priming tool is a great help with getting precise seating results. When you are going for a measured seating depth you absolutely want to have used a uniformer to make sure the pocket depths are all the same. Typically, it only needs to be done once for the life of the brass but I use my uniformer for cleaning the primer pockets to avoid brass migrating and changing the depth. I've been reloading for fifty years and everyone of my primers have fired.
 
do you have the CPS? The bench mount model
Yes the cps bench model
Hornady brass pocket depth I measure to be .127 +/- .002
Federal Gmm large primers thickness i measure is .127

They feel seated and seem to be flush or slightly protruding. I did set it deeper but dont gain any and I dont really want to force it harder.
 
I'm just starting to seat primers for the first time with new Hornady brass and FGMM large primers on a primal rights seater. I cannot seem to get most of them below flush. I have the occasional .002 deep and the occasional protruding slightly. Measuring the pockets they seem to be about the same depth as the primers. Do I need to get a uniformer so I can cut them a little deeper to get .001- .002 below or just run them? Thanks

It'd be a GOOD idea to uniform your primer pockets so that you get a uniform crush on the bottom of the primers when you seat them. AND, you should be able to get uniform seating with your CPS tool, as it's a very good tool for doing so. IMHO, it's best to seat your primers .002-.003 below the base surface AND still get about .002 of crush. So, do the math to see how deep you need to uniform those pockets.
 
It'd be a GOOD idea to uniform your primer pockets so that you get a uniform crush on the bottom of the primers when you seat them. AND, you should be able to get uniform seating with your CPS tool, as it's a very good tool for doing so. IMHO, it's best to seat your primers .002-.003 below the base surface AND still get about .002 of crush. So, do the math to see how deep you need to uniform those pockets.
Ok thanks for the info and that leads to a couple more questions.

1. When seating, I feel them go in and then kind of stop and then go a little more. I would assume that's the crush you are talking about?

2. Which pp uniformer? 21st century looks good with its adjustability.

3. Can the ones already seated be removed without detonating them?
 
Ok thanks for the info and that leads to a couple more questions.

1. When seating, I feel them go in and then kind of stop and then go a little more. I would assume that's the crush you are talking about?

Most likely yes, that would typically be the crush. But . . . it's possible it could be something else like some irregularity of the pocket wall or the floor of the pocket.

2. Which pp uniformer? 21st century looks good with its adjustability.

The 21st Century one is a good uniformer and makes for rather easy adjustments in depth. I use the RCBS Trim Mate as I've had it for a long time now and it's also adjustable, just not as easy to adjust as the 21st Century one.

3. Can the ones already seated be removed without detonating them?

Yes, they can. I've done it on more than one occasion without incident. But, one needs to do it with care and caution (and follow safety procedures, like wearing safety glasses).
 
charro...

I have both the original and latest versions of the Primal Rights’ CPS. I have found that, As far as depth of seating control and consistency are concerned, they are the best primer seating tools I have used in my +35 yrs of reloading. Other respondents have offered a number of great remedies to you. I would add that uniforming primer pockets on once fired brass and cleaning the primer pockets on each successive loading is a great way to promote consistency. I use Sinclair International Primer Pocket uniformers with great success, but as others have pointed out, there are other tools out there. The only other thing I would suggest viewing and reviewing the Primal Rights CPS set up tutorial to insure that you are setting the tool up properly to begin with. Greg Dykstra does an excellent job of explaining the process. If all else fails, it may be a good idea to consult him.

Good Luck
JHC
 
  • Like
Reactions: straightshooter1
Thanks for all the help guys. As I've gotten some experience informing and seating them I cant believe how much variation there is in the primer pockets of this Hornady brass.

My primers are constantly .128 so should my uniformer be set at .128-.129 to be at .002-.003 below flush with .002 crush is kinda what I'm thinking and working towards???

If that is good then what about the brass that has deeper pockets the uniformer hasnt hardly touched the bottom?? Discard that brass, seat them as my other ones are, or uniform everything a litter deeper to be .004 or .005 below flush?
Thanks.
 
I’m not meaning to start a fight, I know everyone has things that work for them, but as far as I’m concerned if the primer seats and isn’t sticking out too far I don’t worry about the rest. I can shoot >1/2” groups with Hornady brass and that’s good enough for me.