Project Deep Throat is a Go.....

PinesAndProjectiles

Formerly MinnesotaMulisha
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Minuteman
  • Jul 30, 2013
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    I picked up a rifle in the PX almost a year ago. Since I've received it, I've shot nothing but factory ammo, which is easy because it's chambered in 6.5 Creed.

    Untitled with it yesterday basically trying to mimic the Berger 135g Classic Hunter load, which runs at 2714 fps in my rifle. I know, it's slow, but it worked.

    I couldn't find a flat spot in velocity with H4350 so I settled on 42g as I had a nice node there at 2766.

    I seated bullets at a CBTO of 2.210, also to mimic the Berger load.

    I fired three rounds on paper, which were not terrible. I'd stack two on top of each other and the third would be 1/2" away from them. Still under MOA.

    Went to the range last night and although I was able to get impacts at 1000, my rounds weren't really consistent. Even the misses were all over.

    Talking to another shooter, he asked me how much I was jumping them and I had no idea since I copied the Berger load.

    So, last night I used my Sinclair seating depth tool and found that my CBTO is 2.399" which is a COAL of 2.997". That's almost .200" longer than SAAMI length, and .112" longer than I can fit in an AICS magazine!

    I estimate there to be 1600 rounds on the rifle.

    Is this barrel done for? Is it worth playing around trying to find a load for it?

    I've got a gay tiger barrel in the safe, ready to spin on. All I need is dies and bullets. Is it time to switch?
     
    I would get a bore scope from Troy, and scope out to see what's going on. Might just have a bunch of carbon stripping jackets causing some issues downrange.
     
    Gut feeling? Check your neck tension. Bullets in semi-auto guns need some pretty snug neck tension to keep them from shifting from striking the feed ramp, and coming to a sudden, violent stop during chambering (it's kind of like a kinetic bullet puller, slamming that cartridge to a sudden stop in a semi).
     
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    Gut feeling? Check your neck tension. Bullets in semi-auto guns need some pretty snug neck tension to keep them from shifting from striking the feed ramp, and coming to a sudden, violent stop during chambering (it's kind of like a kinetic bullet puller, slamming that cartridge to a sudden stop in a semi).
    I should have mentioned this is a bolt gun.

    I did check neck tension yesterday. After FL sizing with a .289 bushing, they measure .2885 to .289 and loaded rounds are right at .292.
     
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    With 1600 rounds on it I don't think it would be shoot out . Its probably just throated really long. meaning u will have a ton of jump . Sounds like u want to use Berger classic, never used those myself. I do have a 7 saum that I'm jumping hybrids a 100 thousandths on with Berger hybrids with decent accuracy. You just have to play with seating depth till u find a good node
     
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    With H4350 with 130-135 you should find a good node between 42.2 and 43. I run my 130-s at 42.8 in Prime brass to duplicate Prime ammo and its the cats ass at 2850 out of my gun (Tikka T3x Tac A1, slow but accurate). Thw 130's just so happen to jump .030 and shoot well, easy day. If you're running Lapua brass, subtract 0.5gr powder charge from my load due to a little less case capacity in the Lapua vs. Prime brass.

    The actual amount of jump is irrelevant. What actually matters is whatever amount of jump works in your rifle's chamber. I did a seating depth test with my 142 Matchkings and ended up with .090-.120 as an area that had the best consistency.
     
    With H4350 with 130-135 you should find a good node between 42.2 and 43. I run my 130-s at 42.8 in Prime brass to duplicate Prime ammo and its the cats ass at 2850 out of my gun (Tikka T3x Tac A1, slow but accurate). Thw 130's just so happen to jump .030 and shoot well, easy day. If you're running Lapua brass, subtract 0.5gr powder charge from my load due to a little less case capacity in the Lapua vs. Prime brass.

    The actual amount of jump is irrelevant. What actually matters is whatever amount of jump works in your rifle's chamber. I did a seating depth test with my 142 Matchkings and ended up with .090-.120 as an area that had the best consistency.
    I'm at 2766 with a 42g charge in Lapua Brass. I've got a few factory rounds left, maybe velocity is falling off, but I'll have to double check.
     
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    I clean, then anneal, then bump shoulder back around .003".
    I'm not using a sizing button, just the .289 bushing
    I'm not using a mandrel.

    Food for thought: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2020...4hTRrT_PmM8ytbl2Q7B4eSp9AjxxxX8m-U_gUuXUsqxyo

    When's the last time the bore was cleaned?

    A shot of Tubb Throat Maintenance System, or even some of the finer grits in the Tubb Final Finish kit might be what you need to smooth out a rough throat. At worst it won't hurt.
     
    Food for thought: https://precisionrifleblog.com/2020...4hTRrT_PmM8ytbl2Q7B4eSp9AjxxxX8m-U_gUuXUsqxyo

    When's the last time the bore was cleaned?

    A shot of Tubb Throat Maintenance System, or even some of the finer grits in the Tubb Final Finish kit might be what you need to smooth out a rough throat. At worst it won't hurt.
    This is one of the best things I've read in a very long time. That may explain why the factory 135s shot well with a large amount of jump.

    I'll have to do some more playing around. But, even with .070" jump, I wouldn't be able to fit that round in a magazine as I'm still .050" short due to the binder plate in the mag.

    I'll see if I can pick up a mag without a binder plate so I can get a little bit closer to the lands just to play around with.

    Thanks @308pirate
     
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