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Gunsmithing PTG R700 Action blueprinting... quality work?

Jay Ell Gee

Habitual Lurker
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 11, 2011
173
75
Tennessee
Hey everyone. Lowly factory Tikka action shooter here.

I am still fairly new to the 700 platform. My wife is a lefty and currently shoots a RAP in 6.5, LH. She would like more options for stocks, triggers, etc. I found a new LH 700 action with a PTG bolt, sako extractor, mini badger knob, etc for $400 new, all blueprinted by PTG.

I have tried to do my own digging but have only found a few vague sources that make me concerned about the quality of PTG’s work. Is there anything to be concerned about here, or do they do good enough work to use this (seemingly, to me) good deal to start a build for my wife? The action has never been used, it is otherwise new.

Please keep in mind that my wife is not a super serious PRS or benchrest shooter. She simply wants more control over the components of her rifle that will allow her to enjoy it more on range days with us. She has zero interest in building a $3,000 custom rig. This will be more of a KISS type build.

That being said, would I possibly be better off just buying a factory stainless action and going with a Rem-Age system, just for cost? My understanding is that pre-fits for a 700 are not a thing (unless it’s a rem-age), so I am trying to factor in costs with both setups. I feel that the PTG action is a better deal, but it’s only a good deal if the work was quality to begin with, I suppose.

Also, the intention of this thread was not to throw dirt on PTG. Like I said, the few things that I have read are very vague and it is very possible that I am misunderstanding something here.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 
I'm gonna get some flak for this, but whatever.

Walk into any job shop, manufacturing facility, whatever... Making an airplane part or a shovel. Doesn't matter. When you have to poke a great deal of holes and get threads into them in a hurry, you use a drill and a tap.

When the location of the hole is critical you drill, bore, and cut the threads using one of three methods.
1. Single point threading on a lathe.
2. Grinding.
3. Thread milling.

Drills and taps take the path of least resistance. It's just a fact. Attempting to observe what's known as a "true position" callout on a print where the value is small (.001") is a royal CS. Its for this very reason those three processes were developed.

Poking a hole down the center of a tap so that it runs over an arbor is only fooling two people; The guy who made it and the one using it. The tap will deflect the arbor and it will follow the easiest route to the bottom of the thread. If you really wanna get anal and CDO (your not anal unless you alphabetize that shit, lol) you now have to factor in the following:

1. Total indicated runout of the arbor bushing, both the front and the rear
2. Straightness of the arbor shaft
3. Roundness of the arbor shaft
4. Tolerance between OD of arbor shaft and ID of arbor bushing
5. Tolerance between ID of tap and the OD of the arbor shaft
6. Concentricity of the mean pitch diameter of the tap and the ID hole poked down the center of it.

There's probably something else I'm overlooking.


Long story short, the odds are working against you. Just because something is now "shiny", it does not mean that its positioned correctly.


I will confess having an opinion (axe to grind) with companies that sell this crap. It does a great disservice to those who've invested in the equipment and skill sets to do the job correctly. As most know, I just recently put a brand new 5 axis machine on the floor for doing exactly this. 1st of its kind. That was a 1/4 million dollar investment.

I could have bought a semi truck full of taps and mandrels at that cost...

Have a great weekend all.

C.
 
I'm gonna get some flak for this, but whatever.

Walk into any job shop, manufacturing facility, whatever... Making an airplane part or a shovel. Doesn't matter. When you have to poke a great deal of holes and get threads into them in a hurry, you use a drill and a tap.

When the location of the hole is critical you drill, bore, and cut the threads using one of three methods.
1. Single point threading on a lathe.
2. Grinding.
3. Thread milling.

Drills and taps take the path of least resistance. It's just a fact. Attempting to observe what's known as a "true position" callout on a print where the value is small (.001") is a royal CS. Its for this very reason those three processes were developed.

Poking a hole down the center of a tap so that it runs over an arbor is only fooling two people; The guy who made it and the one using it. The tap will deflect the arbor and it will follow the easiest route to the bottom of the thread. If you really wanna get anal and CDO (your not anal unless you alphabetize that shit, lol) you now have to factor in the following:

1. Total indicated runout of the arbor bushing, both the front and the rear
2. Straightness of the arbor shaft
3. Roundness of the arbor shaft
4. Tolerance between OD of arbor shaft and ID of arbor bushing
5. Tolerance between ID of tap and the OD of the arbor shaft
6. Concentricity of the mean pitch diameter of the tap and the ID hole poked down the center of it.

There's probably something else I'm overlooking.


Long story short, the odds are working against you. Just because something is now "shiny", it does not mean that its positioned correctly.


I will confess having an opinion (axe to grind) with companies that sell this crap. It does a great disservice to those who've invested in the equipment and skill sets to do the job correctly. As most know, I just recently put a brand new 5 axis machine on the floor for doing exactly this. 1st of its kind. That was a 1/4 million dollar investment.

I could have bought a semi truck full of taps and mandrels at that cost...

Have a great weekend all.

C.

I sent you a PM regarding your first post here on my thread. Looking forward to your input.
 
Personally I am not a fan of cutting the Rem 700 bolt faces to install sako extractors. So the PTG piece would not be of interest to me. Keep an eye on Gunbroker, last Rem 700 LH ss I bought was $333. Its a pretty good starting point really.
 
To the OP...I shoot a Tikka and switched from Remington. It seems to be better quality out of the box on average at this time. If you want a 700 get a used one and send it to LRI. It would be a better value IMO.

Like I stated in my post...

I shoot Tikka and have no issues with them.

However, my wife is a lefty. The whole point of going the 700 route was to give her the maximum amount of options in regards to stock choices, as well as easy Barrel choices, while staying at a reasonable cost. She is not a competition or professional shooter, so the R700 route (especially with a remage system) is especially good for our situation. She has no desire for a $3000 custom rifle and LH Tikka donor actions aren’t exactly easy to come by... much less a variety of LH Tikka stock options.

LRI seems to be highly regarded around here. Thanks.