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Pushing base clearance?

Fureraba

Private
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2021
5
1
Texas
This is my second time mounting a rifle optic, never used a picatinny rail before. I decided to get one to try it on a new Rem 700. Is this pushing the minimum amount of clearance or will it be fine? This is the furthest back that I can have the scope and get close to the eye relief I need without going up to highs which I don't like using.. Should've stuck with a two piece !!!
 

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It would be fascinating to know, given a properly installed and torqued assembly, what "minimum clearance" actually is, and if there is any measurable movement at all (e.g. flex under recoil or violent vibration).

Just spitballing here but I would guess if your scope were to move even as much as the size of the clearance shown, you would have a bigger problem, and the optic would probably be useless.
 
I got it torque to spec 28 in lbs for base and 65 in lbs for lower to base and 28 in lbs again for tops.. all Leupold . Probably better mounts out there but I decided to stick with them to make it more simple.. haven't had any movement on a vari-x ii I put on a 300WM after about 300 rounds through it but that's got some regular rings w dovetail. Dont know how much this system of picatinny will change that .
 
If you are talking scope objective to barrel you have plenty and if worried about scope to base still plenty. If you did need to go back more you can just trim off the last section of the rail. It's a simple thing to do to get a proper set up for eye relief.
 
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If you are talking scope objective to barrel you have plenty and if worried about scope to base still plenty. If you did need to go back more you can just trim off the last section of the rail. It's a simple thing to do to get a proper set up for eye relief.
That's what I was mostly thinking about doing but I don't believe I have a tool for cutting through steel . At least straight anyways lol Did I get some sort of extended rail or something? I didn't think it would extend so far over the recoil lug to begin with.. it said it was for short action
 
Yeah looks slightly extended but a Dremel will make quick work of it. If you don’t have one ask some friends. Just chop off the last section and you will be fine.
 
It would be fascinating to know, given a properly installed and torqued assembly, what "minimum clearance" actually is, and if there is any measurable movement at all (e.g. flex under recoil or violent vibration).

Just spitballing here but I would guess if your scope were to move even as much as the size of the clearance shown, you would have a bigger problem, and the optic would probably be useless.
 
Yeah looks slightly extended but a Dremel will make quick work of it. If you don’t have one ask some friends. Just chop off the last section and you will be fine.
Sounds like a plan . one last quick question. Would krylon or a paint pen work to touch up the steel when it's bare? Thanks for help !
 
Sounds like a plan . one last quick question. Would krylon or a paint pen work to touch up the steel when it's bare? Thanks for help !

Yeah a quick shot of anything that will stick well to steel will work to blacken it back up and protect from rust.
 
It is apples and oranges to what the OP has. That rail system on that .50 is not connected in the back and it is bending itself and making the scope move like the old rubber pencil trick. It’s the most misused video.
 
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I don't believe I have a tool for cutting through steel
Surely there is a machine shop near you that can do this properly in minutes if you need to cut the rail....no?

As far as finishing the cut...there are cold bluing products...incl ones in black (yeah, "black" bluing is kind of an oxymoron).

Just a very quick search yielded



 
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