Re: Question on gun coating ( painting )
Most CK must be baked (like in an oven). If you go that route, get a cheap oven thermometer and hang it in the oven so you know that your temp is right. A lot of ovens don't bake at a temp consistent with their setting.
I've done several projects with each product, each has it's pros and cons. In my experience, the CK (and/or Moly) are tougher..but not a ton.
The bake on finishes are great products, particularly if you are doing just one color (or a two tone) and if it is a metal part. Although, for many plastic parts, they will hold up fine at about 200 degrees. Now they have the air cure CK, which might be a good choice for plastic and scopes. I don't know much about it, as I haven't used that yet.
Anyone know if the air cured CK is as durable as the bake-on stuff? I doubt that it is. Is it as durable as duracoat?
I've actually done a camo project with heat-cured Moly. That was the last time I did a camo project with anything heat-cured.
For most of the projects I do now, duracoat is the best overall choice. It's close to as durable as CK, but easier to mix custom colors, more color choices, much easier to do camo, scopes etc. are all the same color, and I like the way it lays down.
When people questioned how durable duracoat was, I used to whip out my key fob. I got a wild hair and camo'd it when I was doing a camo job on a stock (digital urban night camo). After rolling around in my pocket for a year with my keys, it looked very good. People saw that and didn't have any more concerns. Unfortunately, I can't find the pic of it after a year of use but here's a pic of it right after I painted it:
ARPPreditor's price is very good for the amount of work that he is doing.