I haven't made reloads with new brass in a long time and can't remember if you have to size the brass or anything. I know I'm suppose to debur the rims but not sure if there is anything else?
Question on new brass
- Thread starter Duckslayer12
- Start date
Re: Question on new brass
I have never done anything to uniform primer pockets or the deburing of the flash hole. Is this necessary? I'm just reloading for a .22-250 so im not striving for perfect accuracy or anything. Just lookin for a load that will give me a good enough group to let me reach out to 400yards if needed.
I have never done anything to uniform primer pockets or the deburing of the flash hole. Is this necessary? I'm just reloading for a .22-250 so im not striving for perfect accuracy or anything. Just lookin for a load that will give me a good enough group to let me reach out to 400yards if needed.
Re: Question on new brass
Ive found that if I match prep all my brass I have no one but myself to blame when I miss. I try and take as many variables outta the equation as possible. It cant hurt if nothing else.
Ive found that if I match prep all my brass I have no one but myself to blame when I miss. I try and take as many variables outta the equation as possible. It cant hurt if nothing else.
Re: Question on new brass
Duck
As you start extending your range, EVERYTHING begins to matter more. Do your brass prep like it was for 1000 yds and you will not ever have to second guess your ammo.
Uniform primer pockets, chamfer flash holes, trim to uniform length, chamfer case necks, weight sort and segregate - cull out the heavies and lights (use them for fouling rounds - not sighters) and a pinch of powdered bat wing or newt's a$$ won't hurt, either.
The confidence of being truly prepared is priceless.
Paul
Duck
As you start extending your range, EVERYTHING begins to matter more. Do your brass prep like it was for 1000 yds and you will not ever have to second guess your ammo.
Uniform primer pockets, chamfer flash holes, trim to uniform length, chamfer case necks, weight sort and segregate - cull out the heavies and lights (use them for fouling rounds - not sighters) and a pinch of powdered bat wing or newt's a$$ won't hurt, either.
The confidence of being truly prepared is priceless.
Paul
Re: Question on new brass
Blah blah, just make sure nothing is bent or dented, load it and just shoot it.
Brass prep sucks.
Blah blah, just make sure nothing is bent or dented, load it and just shoot it.
Brass prep sucks.
Re: Question on new brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Swan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blah blah, just make sure nothing is bent or dented, load it and just shoot it.
Brass prep sucks. </div></div>
Amen brother.
If you prep your new brass, to be consistent just be sure when you buy loaded cartridges that you prep them as well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Swan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blah blah, just make sure nothing is bent or dented, load it and just shoot it.
Brass prep sucks. </div></div>
Amen brother.
If you prep your new brass, to be consistent just be sure when you buy loaded cartridges that you prep them as well.
Re: Question on new brass
I just run new brass through a Lee neck sizer to ensure consistent neck tension (some new brass can be deformed or dented at the neck).
Once its though then I trim / deburr / uniform etc.
Runout on new brass is supposed to be pretty tight so I go with that and shoot it.
I just run new brass through a Lee neck sizer to ensure consistent neck tension (some new brass can be deformed or dented at the neck).
Once its though then I trim / deburr / uniform etc.
Runout on new brass is supposed to be pretty tight so I go with that and shoot it.
Re: Question on new brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just run new brass through a Lee neck sizer to ensure consistent neck tension (some new brass can be deformed or dented at the neck).
Once its though then I trim / deburr / uniform etc.
Runout on new brass is supposed to be pretty tight so I go with that and shoot it.</div></div>
Same here, only I use a Redding neck die and then I sort the whole lot by weight. I have a pretty fast system I use for weighing:
I weigh about 10 or so cases to find a average and then I weigh them all into two piles, one pile over the average and one pile under.
Then I do that again which splits the whole batch into four lots.
By now the cases in each lot are only about 4 tenths of a grain apart. Then I prime them all and put them in seperate plastic coffee cans, all ready to load. When its time for a match I load them from one can only. I load what I need for the match and then I may weigh the loaded cartridge and put the ones that weigh the same in rows of ten in my ammo box for each string.
I have cut down on flyers ever since I started this practice.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just run new brass through a Lee neck sizer to ensure consistent neck tension (some new brass can be deformed or dented at the neck).
Once its though then I trim / deburr / uniform etc.
Runout on new brass is supposed to be pretty tight so I go with that and shoot it.</div></div>
Same here, only I use a Redding neck die and then I sort the whole lot by weight. I have a pretty fast system I use for weighing:
I weigh about 10 or so cases to find a average and then I weigh them all into two piles, one pile over the average and one pile under.
Then I do that again which splits the whole batch into four lots.
By now the cases in each lot are only about 4 tenths of a grain apart. Then I prime them all and put them in seperate plastic coffee cans, all ready to load. When its time for a match I load them from one can only. I load what I need for the match and then I may weigh the loaded cartridge and put the ones that weigh the same in rows of ten in my ammo box for each string.
I have cut down on flyers ever since I started this practice.
Re: Question on new brass
If you can, buy Lapua brass.
Cuts down the amount of brass prep and also gives you strong consistant brass which your most likely to get the most reloads out of.
That said, with Lapua brass I just trim them all to one length, full length size them and deburr.
If it were any other brass I would have to do all of this bullshit pocket uniforming, flash hole cleaning blah blah.
If you can, buy Lapua brass.
Cuts down the amount of brass prep and also gives you strong consistant brass which your most likely to get the most reloads out of.
That said, with Lapua brass I just trim them all to one length, full length size them and deburr.
If it were any other brass I would have to do all of this bullshit pocket uniforming, flash hole cleaning blah blah.
