Rifle Scopes Question On Scope Cant

[77Bronc]

If the reticle is not square with the bore of the rifle, is there that chance that when you crank up on the reticle the center of the reticle could be moving at an angle? I am saying yes

I think I have my reticle centered using bubble levels on the rail and on the flats of my USOptics scope, but at the range, cranking up on the EREK knob, the POI moves at an angle up, not straight up, same 100 yard distance..

Is there a correction I can make?

77

 

[Lead Heads]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

Answer is yes. You have to make sure your erector is centered. Check out this video on how to adjust your erector and follow the instructions. Easy fix. http://vimeo.com/13563013

 

[Luky]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

Good video. I assume this technique will work on any scope?

 

[Redmanss]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

It's more important to have your erector housing level than it is for the reticle to be level, and bubble levels aren't accurate enough to do the job. Reticles can be set in slightly off level but so long as the housing is level it will track true with adjustments. You can best do this using a set of feeler gauges under the erector housing and your scope base, getting it completely square to the bore.

Run a tracking test to double check everything is square. If it's still off you might need to send it into USO for inspection or check if your base is off square.

 

[redhooker]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TacDriverTactical</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Answer is yes. You have to make sure your erector is centered. Check out this video on how to adjust your erector and follow the instructions. Easy fix. http://vimeo.com/13563013 </div></div>

That did not demonstrate how to level the erector, and on all my rifles if the erector is centered the scope is not zeroed so I don't understand the point of that video (unless I was prepping a scope for sale?). I'm a little slow so you'll have to help me out.

 

[Rancid Coolaid]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Redmanss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's more important to have your erector housing level than it is for the reticle to be level, and bubble levels aren't accurate enough to do the job. Reticles can be set in slightly off level but so long as the housing is level it will track true with adjustments. You can best do this using a set of feeler gauges under the erector housing and your scope base, getting it completely square to the bore.

Run a tracking test to double check everything is square. If it's still off you might need to send it into USO for inspection or check if your base is off square. </div></div>

I agree with most, but you lose me on housing vs. reticle level. If one is off, both should be off. If only 1 is off, I'd send the scope back - immediately - regardless of which it is. If both are off, I'd re-install the scope, but level this time.

Additionally, plumb lines work wonders for scope mounting, so long as the action is leveled.

 

[redhooker]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

I have had a scope with a canted reticle. If the turrets are level and the reticle is off, as long as you dial everything the scope would track true, but holdovers would be off. If the reticle was level and the turrets were off holdovers would work and dialing would be off. That scope was a sumbich to zero with a flathead. At least thats how my limited brain deciphered it...

I still don't see the point of "centering" the reticle. What is the purpose of that process?

 

[Redmanss]

Re: Question On Scope Cant

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rancid Coolaid</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Redmanss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's more important to have your erector housing level than it is for the reticle to be level, and bubble levels aren't accurate enough to do the job. Reticles can be set in slightly off level but so long as the housing is level it will track true with adjustments. You can best do this using a set of feeler gauges under the erector housing and your scope base, getting it completely square to the bore.

Run a tracking test to double check everything is square. If it's still off you might need to send it into USO for inspection or check if your base is off square. </div></div>

I agree with most, but you lose me on housing vs. reticle level. If one is off, both should be off. If only 1 is off, I'd send the scope back - immediately - regardless of which it is. If both are off, I'd re-install the scope, but level this time.

Additionally, plumb lines work wonders for scope mounting, so long as the action is leveled. </div></div> I agree on sending it back, especially with a USO as the OP has. However not everyone has a $2k+ scope with flawless service after the sale, and sometimes they're within the manufacturer's tolerance threshold to be slightly off. Older scopes see this more often than current production etched reticles, but it still happens. This is why you have to check all avenues when you have a problem versus immediately saying it's the reticle. A plumb line is only one of the steps I take in checking for reticle truing, not the end all-be all.