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Question - Reloading for MEGA MA-TEN 308

NineInchNails

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Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 15, 2011
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A couple years ago I put together a monolithic MEGA MA-TEN with a Noveske 18" barrel (mid length gas) and a Rock River Arms NM 2 stage trigger (may upgrade soon). It shoots real nice, but I just got into reloading and figured I'd work up a load for this rifle. I have no other 308 rifles so I don't need to be too versatile. I am using new Winchester brass. I bought 200 pieces.

I bought a Lee Breech Lock Classic single stage press and a set of Lee Pacesetter dies. The full length resizing die seems to work alright, but I really don't like the way the decapping pin adjusts within the collet. It's a real pain in the ass. I would very much prefer a threaded decapping pin. Easy to adjust, readjust, remove, clean and replace without any hassle.

So here's the question ... Do you guys find it ideal or necessary to use a 'small base' resizing die like the 'RCBS AR Series Small Base'? I want to get a better resizing die, but don't want to get one that may overly resize my brass if it isn't necessary. I would like to get the most life out of my brass, but not suffer feed or jamming problems either. Is a small base die ideal or would a standard full length resizing die be the way to go?
 
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I use non small base FL die. For my LR-308 I haven't had cause to use a small base FL die. Some people may say you should use small base but for many LR-308 or AR-10 guys they don't use small base sizing die, as far as I can tell from all of my reading.
 
That's kinda what I've read too, but wasn't sure. I will probably just get a RCBS 2-die set with a regular full length sizing die.
 
If I may, a higher quality set like Redding or Forster could be well worth it. Mine is Forster Ultra Die set for .308. The seater die has a micrometer built on top and you can easily and precisely adjust bullet seating depths and guys say that, with this seater, bullet runout is significantly reduced in their handloads.
 
I will certainly consider that recommendation.

I'm not extremely knowledgeable about runout, but when using a die set (like you recommended) should you also be checking the thickness of your case mouth? Or would that not be necessary unless you wanted additional consistency & accuracy? I wasn't sure if runout and thickness of the case mouth went hand in hand. I'm still learning and will continue to read, read, read and read. Just didn't want you to think I'm asking to be spoon fed everything
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