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Quick question about Neck Bushings ...

rustyinbend

GySgt USMC 1976-1992
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  • Dec 9, 2018
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    Bend, Oregon
    This question is prompted by "curiosity" ... not "bad results", as I'm getting the desired shoulder bump, solid accuracy, and single-digit SD's on everything I'm reloading using my Redding Type-S Bushing Dies. What I'm seeing is the bushing is contacting the case neck down about 80% of the way to the shoulder, and not sizing all the way down to where the shoulder starts to angle out to the case body. Is that expected and what the rest of you guys see, or is there something different I should be doing to get the entire neck ... mouth to shoulder ... sized by the bushing? Given the results, I think I'm OK, but I just wanted to stress-test that assumption.

    You can see what I'm talking about if you look closely at the change of shading on the 300-PRC case I just ran through the die ...

    1660840671911.png
     
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    Yes, thats what bushings do. Its normal.

    The bushing has a chamfer so the case doesnt run into a squared edge and catch so youll never get all the way down sizing. Plus there is a little space as well. Its fine.
    1660841140578.png


    There is also some talk about how that little bit of bubble helps align the neck in the chamber as well.

    yada yada dont worry about it
     
    That's normal. You'll see some variation depending on the die manufacturer, bushing manufacturer, and cartridge type.
     
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    This question is prompted by "curiosity" ... not "bad results", as I'm getting the desired shoulder bump, solid accuracy, and single-digit SD's on everything I'm reloading using my Redding Type-S Bushing Dies. What I'm seeing is the bushing is contacting the case neck down about 80% of the way to the shoulder, and not sizing all the way down to where the shoulder starts to angle out to the case body. Is that expected and what the rest of you guys see, or is there something different I should be doing to get the entire neck ... mouth to shoulder ... sized by the bushing? Given the results, I think I'm OK, but I just wanted to stress-test that assumption.

    You can see what I'm talking about if you look closely at the change of shading on the 300-PRC case I just ran through the die ...

    View attachment 7936639

    As spife7980 said, that's normal. In fact, that's claimed by many as a positive attribute where the area above the neck/shoulder junction that's not sized helps align the case's axis with the bore's axis to help with more consistent accuracy.
     
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    ^^^^ All of that is correct.
    It looks like you can run the stem on the top of the die down a bit more.

    Here's what I suggest:
    Loosen the stem jam ring.
    Turn the stem down until it stops against the bushing.
    Back it out 1/16th to 1/8th turn and lock it down.
    You should be able to shake the die and hear the bushing click a little as it moves up and down.

    I mark my dies with a sharpie on the lock ring, the body and the stem on top.
    If anything moves I'll see it right away.

    I also have a mark on the top of my press as an instant indicator.

    All of them are designed to line up and let me know at a glance if everything is where it should be.
     
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    ^^^^ All of that is correct.
    It looks like you can run the stem on the top of the die down a bit more.

    Here's what I suggest:
    Loosen the stem jam ring.
    Turn the stem down until it stops against the bushing.
    Back it out 1/16th to 1/8th turn and lock it down.
    You should be able to shake the die and hear the bushing click a little as it moves up and down.

    I mark my dies with a sharpie on the lock ring, the body and the stem on top.
    If anything moves I'll see it right away.

    I also have a mark on the top of my press as an instant indicator.

    All of them are designed to line up and let me know at a glance if everything is where it should be.
    Yup ... stem cinch down and 1/16th back-off is standard practice for me. One question ... do you do that with the ram "up", or "down"? Does it matter?
     
    I do mine off the press so I can bit by bit snug/loosen until a clean bushing and die are right at the click snug line and feel and maybe hear it shaking.
     
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    L.E. Wilson bores their rings with a taper. With the size number up (on top, when istalled), the larger end of the taper is at the bottom and the smaller end of the taper is at the top. The ring can simply be removed and re-inserted "upside down" for tighter neck tension and "cancellation" of the taper.

    I run all my rings upside down. It's just my preference. I was told by Wilson that years ago, Benchresters wanted the taper for less neck tension (in the belief that the resulting neck tension would be more consistent, from loaded round to loaded round). However, running the ring(s) upside down has not provided the result of the neck being a consistent diameter all the way to the shoulder.

    What you are seeing is normal. Nothing to worry about, unless you are having neck tension issues.
     
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    I already use SAC bushings ... getting great concentricity and consistent neck tension from them.
    I noticed when switching that they gave a little more gradual step than a standard bushing. Fixed my doughnut problem Redding bushings were causing. Almost like sizing 1/2 the neck with a standard bushing.

    Even better yet the is the SAC die with the neck/shoulder bushings. More money, but I think they have made a better mouse trap.
     
    I noticed when switching that they gave a little more gradual step than a standard bushing. Fixed my doughnut problem Redding bushings were causing. Almost like sizing 1/2 the neck with a standard bushing.

    Even better yet the is the SAC die with the neck/shoulder bushings. More money, but I think they have made a better mouse trap.
    The SAC die is a bit of a "bridge too far" for me, but I really like their bushings, comparators, and other stuff.