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Gunsmithing Quick skim bedding question...

justinbaker

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 11, 2007
561
1
new mexico
Is this much play in the rear Tang normal ?

The ejection ports are level

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Re: Quick skim bedding question...

Check trigger fit with that much rear tang clearance? Me personally, i'd take a few wraps of electrical tape off the rear section of barrel, that is significant amount of play, but should work.
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

take the tape off the barrel!! just open up the channel if you have to afterwards. But no tape!!
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stockdoc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">take the tape off the barrel!! just open up the channel if you have to afterwards. But no tape!! </div></div>


Really, no tape. That goes against everything iv read...
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

Leave the tape.

I think he thinks your trying to bed it high to free float it.

You just need to remove or, add some tape so that it will sit level. To me it looks like you might need more tape on the front so that it will bring the taing down.
Just add and remove tape till you get it good and level and you will be fine.
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

This may be a dumb question, but it would by no means be my first....

Isn't the "play" like that a result of the free-floating barrel, and isn't that what you want? When you put the bedding compound and action screws in, the action will be all the way down and the barrel up.... right?
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

Well ifi add tape to the front it brings the Tang down to very little play.

But it also causes the action ejection port top sit lower than the stock port

So what's more important?
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

What does it look like when its bolted down with out all the tape prep?

Do you have tape on the recoil lug?

Did you remove any material from the stocks action area?

Now if you didn't remove material from the stock or have to much tape on the lug, than just replicate how it sits in the stock when its bolted down. By placing the tape on the barrel.

Just keep it level
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

okay so i took all the tape off and snugged the action down with the action screws to see what the front of the barrel looked like

it had alot more clearance than what i was giving it before

so i wrapped tape only around the far tip of the barrel and got the exact amount of clearance as before.

the tang looked better, with only a very little amount of play.




next question is should i bed the first inch or so in front of the lug? some posts say yes, some say no...
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

All of mine get about 1" past the lug done. I even once had an old remmy that wouldn't shoot free floated and required a full length pressure bed of the barrel. After that it shot just under MOA but was far better than the 3 MOA it shot with all other stages from no bedding to just lug to entire action to action and 1"...Just take a dremel after it's cured up and dress that front edge off nice and even at that 1" in front of the lug n go shoot!
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

well didnt turn out too bad, but definetely not perfect

must of been a bubble or something, as the rear tang chipped

could i just mix up a little more and apply and rebed this area?

IMG_3752.jpg


and forward of the recoil lug looks like shit
should i rebed this area as well?
IMG_3753.jpg
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

id say dont be afraid to alter the stock, either at the ejection port by lowering it to get the tang down, or using epoxy to build up and blend the whole rear so it looks as good as a skunk works gun
 
Re: Quick skim bedding question...

I've got a B&C A5 stock that I bedded and decided to do just as you've done. The rear tang area was raised just a few hairs. It aligned the ejection port area perfectly and gave proper float amount(i like just under 1/8"). Turned out great.

Your recoil lug area looks good, the rear lug contact surface looks filled and neat. In front of the recoil lug usually receives a relief cutout to help ease future removal and installation. I'd just use a dremel/file to make it neat & uniform.

I agree on the rear tang, air trapped around the bolt hole. The area around the tang you could backfill later.

Again, you've got good bedding surface on the front receiver and lug pocket, don't alter that at all by raising the rear tang surface any higher/lower when you refill the rear tang. Your front receiver ring area and recoil lug pocket are the 2 most critical areas in stress-free bedding. Did you check the bottom of the recoil lug for clearance from the stock after? I usually give that area a light scrape with a chisel.

When refilling the rear tang void(s), think "rear-front height alignment", and don't change it. Keep some of the rear tang material there so you can squash out excess devcon using pressure/tightening the rear bolt. Torque front bolt 1rst(height alignment off front first), then "snug" the rear to squash out excess devcon. Use plenty of kiwi or other release agent on that rear bolt/threads.

I don't bed in front of the lug, I don't believe it helps/hurts bedding 1-2" in front of the lug... but that's just me.

Hope this helps