Anybody play with this on their savage bolt body to make bolt lift easier?
Gunsmithing re-grinding cocking ramp
- Thread starter 916dude!
- Start date
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
I think your quote about the Path is appropo in this question.
I think your quote about the Path is appropo in this question.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
Haahahahaha lol tanks!
Haahahahaha lol tanks!
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
i think im gonna buy a PT&G bolt body and hack on my factory one and just see what happens... wish me luck!
i think im gonna buy a PT&G bolt body and hack on my factory one and just see what happens... wish me luck!
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
I think Sharpshooter Supply shortens the hook portion as part of thier Time and true. Savageshooters has an explaination of what he does posted in the facts section.
I think Sharpshooter Supply shortens the hook portion as part of thier Time and true. Savageshooters has an explaination of what he does posted in the facts section.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
I've been trying to get on their website for a couple days and couldn't. I'll try it again. Maybe it's a Mac issue
I've been trying to get on their website for a couple days and couldn't. I'll try it again. Maybe it's a Mac issue
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been trying to get on their website for a couple days and couldn't. I'll try it again. Maybe it's a Mac issue </div></div>
They are doing server upgrades and such. I've been able to get on most times, but they should be done in a few days.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 916dude!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been trying to get on their website for a couple days and couldn't. I'll try it again. Maybe it's a Mac issue </div></div>
They are doing server upgrades and such. I've been able to get on most times, but they should be done in a few days.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
Try just polishing it up with a Dremel and a fine grit abrasive bit.
Be sure and clean up the body before assembling, and grease that area.
I would not go altering the angles and engagement point.... unless you are willing to buy a new bolt-body.
Or, just wait for it to wear-in.
Try just polishing it up with a Dremel and a fine grit abrasive bit.
Be sure and clean up the body before assembling, and grease that area.
I would not go altering the angles and engagement point.... unless you are willing to buy a new bolt-body.
Or, just wait for it to wear-in.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
wont work. i have said this before and i cant say its true, but if you look at the action and the way it operates you are cocking the firing pin spring when you lift the bolt. you can do stuff to eliminate a great deal of rotation friction. if you look at the ramp it looks like its beveled so the cocking piece rides on the edge. in doing that the friction is kept to a minimum. making it flat would increase contact and friction.
there are things that you can do. there is the T&T for $125 plus shipping both ways. they do alot, i had it done. i cant really tell its done anything for lightening the bolt but it did lighten my wallet a bit. another guy actually used a beam style torque wrench to test the before and after. it was just about the same. not enough to justify the fees. stuff got trued and squared. but as far as smooth and easy to lift... save the money and do the easy stuff like a few of us have already. click on my name and look thru my posts and you will see several threads about making the bolt feel better.
but, you still gotta compress that spring and thats never gonna change
oh yeah, alot of us have polished the bolt and made a "bolt lift kit" for the bolt. unless you have a cocking indicator, its pretty easy to make, cheap and along with the polishing and a good cleaning (my savage was filthy) it will feel pretty good. plus you know the spring is strong when you lift that bolt. also getting a longer bolt handle will increase leverage.
wont work. i have said this before and i cant say its true, but if you look at the action and the way it operates you are cocking the firing pin spring when you lift the bolt. you can do stuff to eliminate a great deal of rotation friction. if you look at the ramp it looks like its beveled so the cocking piece rides on the edge. in doing that the friction is kept to a minimum. making it flat would increase contact and friction.
there are things that you can do. there is the T&T for $125 plus shipping both ways. they do alot, i had it done. i cant really tell its done anything for lightening the bolt but it did lighten my wallet a bit. another guy actually used a beam style torque wrench to test the before and after. it was just about the same. not enough to justify the fees. stuff got trued and squared. but as far as smooth and easy to lift... save the money and do the easy stuff like a few of us have already. click on my name and look thru my posts and you will see several threads about making the bolt feel better.
but, you still gotta compress that spring and thats never gonna change
oh yeah, alot of us have polished the bolt and made a "bolt lift kit" for the bolt. unless you have a cocking indicator, its pretty easy to make, cheap and along with the polishing and a good cleaning (my savage was filthy) it will feel pretty good. plus you know the spring is strong when you lift that bolt. also getting a longer bolt handle will increase leverage.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
Axeman, I have already put a bad ass thrust bearing in my bolt and trimmed the cocking assembly sleeve down the amount the bearing took up on my lathe. I also put a new Wolff spring in and reset my firing pin protrution. I also threaded my bolt handle and made a knew longer knob to get a little more leverage when cycling. Works pretty smooth now.... But could always be better. I was thinking about ordering a new bolt body from pt&g and playing with my old bolt body. If I'm not mistaken, I believe there are two smiths, Kevin something and frank something, that change the cocking ramp angle in the factory bolt body to make it cock easier. Could be wrong though... Wouldn't be the first time. Anyway, just seeing if anyone else has any experience with it on here before I start playing with it. Plus the machinist at the fab shop I was working at was saying if I don't change the start and end points of the cocking ramp, but just change the angle, I should be ok.
And another thing, I was thinking about playing around with truing the action and trying to figure out how to time everything correctly... To me, the shooting isn't the only fun part. Tinkering is a lot of fun too. Thanks for all the help! Keep it coming!
Axeman, I have already put a bad ass thrust bearing in my bolt and trimmed the cocking assembly sleeve down the amount the bearing took up on my lathe. I also put a new Wolff spring in and reset my firing pin protrution. I also threaded my bolt handle and made a knew longer knob to get a little more leverage when cycling. Works pretty smooth now.... But could always be better. I was thinking about ordering a new bolt body from pt&g and playing with my old bolt body. If I'm not mistaken, I believe there are two smiths, Kevin something and frank something, that change the cocking ramp angle in the factory bolt body to make it cock easier. Could be wrong though... Wouldn't be the first time. Anyway, just seeing if anyone else has any experience with it on here before I start playing with it. Plus the machinist at the fab shop I was working at was saying if I don't change the start and end points of the cocking ramp, but just change the angle, I should be ok.
And another thing, I was thinking about playing around with truing the action and trying to figure out how to time everything correctly... To me, the shooting isn't the only fun part. Tinkering is a lot of fun too. Thanks for all the help! Keep it coming!
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wont work. i have said this before and i cant say its true, but if you look at the action and the way it operates you are cocking the firing pin spring when you lift the bolt. you can do stuff to eliminate a great deal of rotation friction. if you look at the ramp it looks like its beveled so the cocking piece rides on the edge. in doing that the friction is kept to a minimum. making it flat would increase contact and friction.
................. </div></div>
Will work.
Have been there and done that.
Bringing the cocking ramp to a razors edge would only increase wear on the cocking piece pin and would eventually cause galling.
It would be a very bad idea to reduce contact area at this particular point.
It is a good idea to smooth the surface of the ramp the pin rides on.
Nothing wrong with trying to reshape the ramp....if you are willing to put in the time to figure it out. This may require damaging a body, and replacing it, while adjusting to the learning curve that I have not attempted to master.
My opinion, based on my experience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wont work. i have said this before and i cant say its true, but if you look at the action and the way it operates you are cocking the firing pin spring when you lift the bolt. you can do stuff to eliminate a great deal of rotation friction. if you look at the ramp it looks like its beveled so the cocking piece rides on the edge. in doing that the friction is kept to a minimum. making it flat would increase contact and friction.
................. </div></div>
Will work.
Have been there and done that.
Bringing the cocking ramp to a razors edge would only increase wear on the cocking piece pin and would eventually cause galling.
It would be a very bad idea to reduce contact area at this particular point.
It is a good idea to smooth the surface of the ramp the pin rides on.
Nothing wrong with trying to reshape the ramp....if you are willing to put in the time to figure it out. This may require damaging a body, and replacing it, while adjusting to the learning curve that I have not attempted to master.
My opinion, based on my experience.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
Thanks for the input Rafael. I wasn't thinking about beveling it just changing the angle of the ramp the pin rides on. I'm not really to worried obout messing the factory body up either cus I was planning on replacing it anyway. A new bolt body from PT&G is .704OD and my factory bolt body is something like .663OD or something like that. I cant remember, but there is a lot of slop. I figured this would be a win win situation in depending on how you look at it.
Thanks for the input Rafael. I wasn't thinking about beveling it just changing the angle of the ramp the pin rides on. I'm not really to worried obout messing the factory body up either cus I was planning on replacing it anyway. A new bolt body from PT&G is .704OD and my factory bolt body is something like .663OD or something like that. I cant remember, but there is a lot of slop. I figured this would be a win win situation in depending on how you look at it.
Re: re-grinding cocking ramp
I am interested in hearing how that oversized bolt works for you.....mine has more play than it needs as well.
Let us know how things work out for you.
I am interested in hearing how that oversized bolt works for you.....mine has more play than it needs as well.
Let us know how things work out for you.
